Installing Dobinson Shocks/Springs; In Process. Questions. (1 Viewer)

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Oregon
I received my Dobinson IMS shocks and coils a while back and getting around to installation. Started with the rear, busted one lower shock mount bolt, finally got the time to drill and tap it out. Will be pulling the springs shortly and had a few questions.

-Should I replace the current bump stops just for the sake of upgrading while the springs are off? If so, any suggestions for which one's? Mild lift, C59-222V front with ARB bumper and winch. Rears are C59-223, no real heavy additional weight, just cargo and rack. Tire size 275/70/17.
-How about the rubber isolator seated inside the coils? Replace or keep?
-I only broke the one bolt but was wondering before I order another one, should I replace all the bolts I'm removing just for the hell of it? Or just clean up the one's I already have?
-Should I use anti-seize when I go to re-install?

Any other suggestions for replacement while I'm under there and in process?
 
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I received my Dobinson IMS shocks and coils a while back and getting around to installation. Started with the rear, busted one lower shock mount bolt, finally got the time to drill and tap it out. Will be pulling the springs shortly and had a few questions.

-Should I replace the current bump stops just for the sake of upgrading while the springs are off? If so, any suggestions for which one's? Mild lift, C59-222V front with ARB bumper and winch. Rears are C59-223, no real heavy additional weight, just cargo and rack. Tire size 275/70/17.
-How about the rubber isolator seated inside the coils? Replace or keep?
-I only broke the one bolt but was wondering before I order another one, should I replace all the bolts I'm removing just for the hell of it? Or just clean up the one's I already have?
-Should I use anti-seize when I go to re-install?

Any other suggestions for replacement while I'm under there and in process?
If the bump stops are in good shape, no chunking, etc, I would not bother with that extra effort. Unless you're planning in being on the bumpstops much, considering you seem to be planning a mild, thoughtful build. Got no idea about the isolator. In both cases, perhaps Dobinson may have some guidance?

Any bolt that gives you trouble coming out should be replaced if there's any damage causing it. If just gummy or something that otherwise cleans off the threads, then might be worth it after all that trouble you went to with the current project. Plus one bad one is a leading indicator of the future of the others. These are known to be troublesome. If you didn't presoak then you know why it's often done on these. It may have given you trouble anyway, but you will have a better attitude about the extra complication if you've taken all precautions possible. I hate these sorts of frustrations.

I'll also defer to others on the anti-seize. Will say judicious use is a good thing where ever it's recommended as too much is messy and not helpful.
 
I'd reuse the rubber ring isolator and bump stops unless they are clearly degraded or failing. Bolt wise, at least replace the lowers as they seem to be the most problematic for most. They are a bit unusual as they thread deep into the stud that the shock rides on and seems like they get over torqued or corroded being down low with no way for moisture to escape the thread area. Be careful when re-installing the shock as the rubber will be nice and fat, so possibly a bit of lube on the rubber will help with proper torquing on these. The bolts are a bottom-out fit, so you don't need to put the breaker bar extension on them to torque properly (the stress point will be right at the head if over-torqued and why I assume many break upon removal). Anti-seize, I didn't put any on mine, but did replace both just for the sake of it.
 
Good advice! Thank you both. I'll replace both bolts, obviously one is broken, but might as well replace the other lower bolt. At this point, don't plan to bottom out on the bump stops with my usage. I'll probably use the anti seize, it couldn't hurt.
 
Ok, stupid question. What is the orientation of the IMS shock assembly? The washers can literally be installed 10 different ways to make sense. I can't find any videos or pictures for the last 2 hours and there are no instructions anywhere on Dobinson's site and it seems I'm left with 2 extra washers.
 
This is the orientation I'm thinking it should be assembled and the two washers I'm left with.

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This is correct below the mount. Above the mount is a regular bushing, washer, then nut. Only 1 locating washer is used, on the underside of the mount. Those shocks come with 2 sizes as some models Toyota's that those shocks go on use a different sized hole.

The washer left over with the lip is for a different vehicle.

The flat washer left over is most likely for the lower bushings to replace the OE if it's rusty.

Same as this old photo from Slee Offroad

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This is correct below the mount. Above the mount is a regular bushing, washer, then nut. Only 1 locating washer is used, on the underside of the mount. Those shocks come with 2 sizes as some models Toyota's that those shocks go on use a different sized hole.

The washer left over with the lip is for a different vehicle.

The flat washer left over is most likely for the lower bushings to replace the OE if it's rusty.

Same as this old photo from Slee Offroad

View attachment 3533523

View attachment 3533527
Where were you when I installed the Dobinsons goodness I bought off Exit? Lol. Just giving you a hard time, I didn't need any help. The MRA fronts and rears as well as the coils looks super sexy though. I ended up buying the steering damper to match but I had to go through LOLO overland since they were on the way to work and I got a direct MIL/VET discount. Just convenient. The steering damper needs an install video or something, that thing is odd.

So @Inked, you chose the ice storm to install...like a true Oregonian we do our finest work in the crappiest weather, LOL.
 

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