Installed "new" engine...no start (1 Viewer)

[FJ40JOHN]

After all the blow by issues with my original motor (overpressurising the crankcase), I dropped a running motor out of an 85 in my 84.

Now I can't get it to start!

Hooked up the distributor (DUI HEI) with the flywheel at TDC and rotor pointed toward #4 plug. Fuel is getting to carb (throttle linkage isn't installed, so working by hand). Motor spins, but won't run. I occasionally get a pop that sounds like it fired on a cylinder, but won't keep going. It will backfire out of the carb when given enough gas.

I've played with timing (spinning distributor), and advanced (turning distributor clockwise) seems to be better, and going the other way, even worse (no pops at all).

I clearly have no idea what I'm doing...

No accessories are connected, this is basic as it comes. No vacuum lines (planned desmog) just want it to run...however poorly, before I do the rest.

Where do I start?

 

[FJ40JOHN]

Pics of the current setup

 

[klinetime574]

Make sure it is TDC on the compression stroke of cylinder #1. Easiest way, turn motor over by hand with finger over plug hole #1. Wait for pressure to push your finger and air will escape when you remove your finger. The rotor should point to the corresponding plug wire (#1) at the distributor cap. Then make sure you’ve got the firing order correct. When the distributor drops in, the rotor will turn when it meshes with the cam gear, just pay attention to that.

HTH

 

[John McVicker]

Also, make double sure you have your spark plug wires attached to the proper plugs.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Do you not have a stock distributor? Backfiring our of the carb I believe is typically timing. Great rid of the dui....

 

[FJ40JOHN]

Also, make double sure you have your spark plug wires attached to the proper plugs.

I'll pull them and check again. This may be related to the TDC thing. Per DUI, their distributor isn't numbered and can run in any order...Supposed to set at #1 & TDC then follow firing order.

Do you not have a stock distributor? Backfiring our of the carb I believe is typically timing. Great rid of the dui....

No stock distributor. This came with it.

If that is the case, then I probably screwed something up with the install. I'll give it a shot next time I have a chance and get back with info.

 

[FJ40JOHN]

Dumb question, but is it possible for the flywheel to be clocked? Could my timing marks be off?

 

[Skeet]

The flywheel has a locator hole that fits over a pin and can only be installed in the correct position.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The gears do have marks tho (on the cam and crank) and they do have to align a certain way.
Just saying it seems most who go w/ those dui’s have trouble.

 

[FJ40JOHN]

The gears do have marks tho (on the cam and crank) and they do have to align a certain way.
Just saying it seems most who go w/ those dui’s have trouble.

I knew we pulled the flywheel, but couldn't recall all the details.

DUI was fine in the previous motor. I'll run it...assuming I can get that far!

 

[Seth S]

I don’t see the fuel cut vacuum switch hooked up.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

EGR hard pipe under the carb in the insulator isn’t capped or inline. That’s a huge leak.
Your also missing to screws on the carb that hold the air horn down.
Probably best to get the majority of things hooked up before trying to tweak the timing.

 

[Seth_O]

Will it catch and fire up (even if only very briefly) with starting fluid? If so you have a fuel problem, if not it's likely a timing issue - assuming it was running before you installed it.

And there are a LOT of bits not connected in that pic.

 

[SteveH]

Putting the distributor in place 180 degrees out of synch allow it to sputter, but not run (BTDT). Double check that. As others mentioned, a huge vacuum leak will be a deal-breaker as far as running at all.

 

[klinetime574]

I’d actually be curious if a 2F would run with large vacuum leaks. Seems like it would (poorly). @FJ40JOHN just check things over as mentioned here and I’ll bet you get it running. Doubt it’s a distributor problem if it was on the old engine.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What is your IM set at? Seat it and turn it out at least 3 full turns. Seat the idle mix and turn that out a few as well. The 2f will run w/ a big leak, poorly but we all know how to compensate for leaks. Are you pulling the choke when your trying to start?

 

[Beerfix]

I’d actually be curious if a 2F would run with large vacuum leaks. Seems like it would (poorly). @FJ40JOHN just check things over as mentioned here and I’ll bet you get it running. Doubt it’s a distributor problem if it was on the old engine.

Oh, it will run, just not well. A person could spend a lot of time and effort trying to sort that out before the ahHA moment when you realize the previous owner did some very very strange things with a smog delete. I actually had it running pretty good with MAJOR vacuum leaks, and a blown intake gasket.

 

[OSS]

I’d actually be curious if a 2F would run with large vacuum leaks

It'll "run" fine with a huge vacuum leak when driving on the freeway and gas pedal pushed down. That's what the EGR system does. But it definitely will not idle. But it still will crank over and start, then sputter out with a big vacuum leak.

 

[gregnash]

Start with the simple stuff.
Go through and connect as though you were doing the desmog. Get that taken care of that way you are not wondering about potential of the vacuum leak with everything disconnected causing issues.

Outside of that, stupid simple question... you have confirmed that you are getting spark? And said spark is getting to the cylinders correct?

 

[FJ40JOHN]

Start with the simple stuff.
Go through and connect as though you were doing the desmog. Get that taken care of that way you are not wondering about potential of the vacuum leak with everything disconnected causing issues.

Outside of that, stupid simple question... you have confirmed that you are getting spark? And said spark is getting to the cylinders correct?

Confirmed spark purely through the fireball coming through the carb.