Insight to rust situation on this LX450 (1 Viewer)

[walkbanx]

Hi everyone!

I’m finally getting serious about a LC purchase after years and years of anticipation. My budget is decidedly limited, and I’m fine with a truck that has some basic issues to be fixed down the line and cosmetics don’t mean too much to me. Anyways, I’ve been looking at this LX450 from a really kind fellow mud user and am planning on staying at a friend’s cabin up in Maine in a couple weeks to go check it out.

For Sale - 1996 LX450 - Triple Locked

Hey all, I bought an LX450 on a whim a few months ago and have decided I’m going in a different direction. 196k miles Triple locked I just did the following: - new struts all around (bilstein) - new brakes all around - rotors and pads - new OME steering stabilizer - oil change - heater...

forum.ih8mud.com

I’d be excited to start to build the thing out and put some time into maintenance, but the rust situation on the back axle is definitely a big concern. Also it’s a Salvage title from front end collision which isn’t the hugest deal in the world to me but isn’t great. What do y’all think about the rust? Nothing has to be perfect for me, but I want a truck I can have for years without a game breaking repair at stake.

Looking for everyone’s insight and appreciate it in advance. Maybe I should save and think about a nicer one (there’s one here in town that’s been completely rebuilt in the $16k range that i’m dying for) - but honestly that’s an incredibly huge stretch of my budget right now.

Looking forward to some insight.

thanks
Walker

 

[Kernal]

Price is right but rust is wrong. In the long run might be better to find a rust-free example.

 

[jpoole]

Keep in mind that 80s aren't exactly budget friendly vehicles and that purchase price is typically just part of the equation, sometimes a small part. The amount of rust on that 80 would drop it's value lower, probably a lot lower, in other parts of the country. I'm not up to date on 80 prices but am confident that you'll find less rust if you shop South and far West of your location only. The rust on that 80 may be fixable but it's more than I'd take on unless it was a fraction of the price and I was building a trail rig from it. Note, that's personal preference and perhaps easy to say when I've already found and purchased a rust free 80. My 80 is mostly for fun though and rust is the opposite of that in my experience.

I looked for an 80 when I lived in DC for a few years and found a lot of rust or urban abuse. After moving to SE TN the shopping got a lot better in terms of prices and rust and I wouldn't be surprised if that's still the case. Ideally you buy one of these from a non-enthusiast who doesn't track the recent price increases. You have to be close and quick to pull that off typically though.

Good luck,

 

[walkbanx]

Keep in mind that 80s aren't exactly budget friendly vehicles and that purchase price is typically just part of the equation, sometimes a small part. The amount of rust on that 80 would drop it's value lower, probably a lot lower, in other parts of the country. I'm not up to date on 80 prices but am confident that you'll find less rust if you shop South and far West of your location only. The rust on that 80 may be fixable but it's more than I'd take on unless it was a fraction of the price and I was building a trail rig from it. Note, that's personal preference and perhaps easy to say when I've already found and purchased a rust free 80. My 80 is mostly for fun though and rust is the opposite of that in my experience.

I looked for an 80 when I lived in DC for a few years and found a lot of rust or urban abuse. After moving to SE TN the shopping got a lot better in terms of prices and rust and I wouldn't be surprised if that's still the case. Ideally you buy one of these from a non-enthusiast who doesn't track the recent price increases. You have to be close and quick to pull that off typically though.

Good luck,

Thanks - i think this is probably true. Where would you look for one from a non-enthusiast? Opening up a gorgeous old barn from some guy I meet at a bar to a rust free car in the middle of nowhere is obviously the dream, but where else would one look outside of note leaving and facebook/craigslist browsing?

I’m still going to go see this thing, i think, and give it some more thought. I don’t want to buy something that’s trashed in a few years though.

 

[jpoole]

In my experience watching FB / Craigslist and the like can turn up the lower priced examples but they go really fast because there are so many watchers. You pretty much have to check 3 or 4 times a day and be ready to jump. I had trouble pulling this off over the few years I shopped when I was in DC which meant that if I traveled I could only see examples that had been on the market a while and were likely less desirable. Locally a few good deals did come up but I was still figuring out what I wanted and missed them due to hesitation. No real magic here, but a few times a year a deal may come up this way in my experience. Otherwise you pay through repairing and building what you want from something that's not there or you pay to buy it up front, etc..

From Richmond you can watch a lot of smaller towns and you are in an area that could yield some good examples. Any of them could be rusty but if the owner was careful they don't have to be. If you want the deal you may just need to get good at shopping, form the routine, setup the tools, set aside the cash and be prepared to give it months or even a few years. Figure out the years, colors and issues you are good with and be ready to jump when one of them shows up.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

8k isn't too bad of a price. If your willing to spend a few weeks under the rig with a needle scaler and wire wheel etc addressing the rust it might be worth it.

If your going to pay someone to deal with the rust than move on to the next one.

If you do decide your interested do a pressure test on the cooling system and a combustion gas test to make sure the cooling system and head gasket are good to go.

Also make sure the lockers work.

 

[FMC80]

I’m with @leonard_nemoy. You can probably put some work into the LX and get it solid. Or hold out for a quick snatch like @jpoole stated.

Check this one out. Apparently the guy will take $6500 Log in or sign up to view - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3092878774268478/

 

[walkbanx]

8k isn't too bad of a price. If your willing to spend a few weeks under the rig with a needle scaler and wire wheel etc addressing the rust it might be worth it.

If your going to pay someone to deal with the rust than move on to the next one.

If you do decide your interested do a pressure test on the cooling system and a combustion gas test to make sure the cooling system and head gasket are good to go.

Also make sure the lockers

I know absolutely nothing about doing this sort of work but would be willing to give it a shot. Where can I find info on how to deal with it?

 

[walkbanx]

I’m with @leonard_nemoy. You can probably put some work into the LX and get it solid. Or hold out for a quick snatch like @jpoole stated.

Check this one out. Apparently the guy will take $6500 Log in or sign up to view - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3092878774268478/

Messaging Florida man now! thanks for the word!

 

[leonard_nemoy]

It's white!!!!! Definitely a bonus.

 

[aclos3]

Your willingness to learn will go a long way.
You mention that you aren't familiar with rust repair, but are you familiar with working on vehicles in general? Do you have a garage where you can work on the truck for extended periods? Do you have another car that would be your daily driver?
I absolutely love my 80, but I wouldn't buy one now if I couldn't answer yes to those questions.

 

[SaturnAscends]

Doesn’t look bad to me. In New York that’d be “rust free”

 

[Heckraiser]

Price is fair and rust is acceptable at that price. I don't see any rot. It's a lot of work, but most rust on the frame and axles can be fixed 100% with needle scaler, wire brush, sealer and paint, plus cracking loose all the bolts you can find and replacing them if they put up too much of a fight. It's labor intensive, but it can be fixed right mainly just by investing your time. If there is ANY rust on the body, totally different story.

:edit: I'd expect that white one in FL to be pretty rusty based on the engine bay photo. That's some pretty bad oxidation on the intake manifold and rust on various metal bits under the hood. I bet it was used on the beach.