New-To-Me 1997 LX450 (4 Viewers)

[rhc404]

Check your steering knuckle nuts. If you look at the inside of the front tires, they are the 4 nuts on the lowest part of the knuckle. Easy to check without jacking the truck up. If they're loose or missing it's a major safety issue and you shouldn't drive it until it's fixed. Start looking into the front knuckle/bearing job since it's a general maintenance item and it may have been a while since it's had one.

The drip on your front axle could be power steering fluid. Check lines, etc.

Beyond all the normal maintenance, I'd do an EGR delete or bypass. It can toast the engine harness that runs near the EGR pipe, and many agree that it contributes to head gasket failures at the rear cylinder. I used the Hudd Expo kit but there are also DIY methods.

 

[mcbs]

Check your steering knuckle nuts. If you look at the inside of the front tires, they are the 4 nuts on the lowest part of the knuckle. Easy to check without jacking the truck up. If they're loose or missing it's a major safety issue and you shouldn't drive it until it's fixed. Start looking into the front knuckle/bearing job since it's a general maintenance item and it may have been a while since it's had one.

The drip on your front axle could be power steering fluid. Check lines, etc.

Beyond all the normal maintenance, I'd do an EGR delete or bypass. It can toast the engine harness that runs near the EGR pipe, and many agree that it contributes to head gasket failures at the rear cylinder. I used the Hudd Expo kit but there are also DIY methods.

Thanks for the tips.

Regarding the knuckle - should there be any play? Watched some videos of regreasing some knuckles and it seemed labor intensive. Would love to do it but have two other project rigs and this is the daily driver at the moment. Any ideas on what I should expect to pay for a rehab job - assuming its not a half day job or less.

Will take a look at the power steering lines. Was reading that the gasket can fail causing leaks. The sterring definitely feels a bit loose, even with the old man emu on there. Shes a bit noise on any tight turns.

I think the P.O had the ECU get fried from the an engine harness getting totaled. I though this had to with the 180 pipe valve on top of the engine (the PHH, right?). Good to know about the EGR delete would love to look into it.

No sign of the Head Gasket being replaced before, though they did replace the radiator not too long ago though not the water pump. Was thinking it would be worth doing a compression test when I replace the plugs. Never done a leak down before - any other ways to gauge the conditions of the head gasket on these?

 

[rhc404]

Regarding the knuckle - should there be any play? Watched some videos of regreasing some knuckles and it seemed labor intensive. Would love to do it but have two other project rigs and this is the daily driver at the moment. Any ideas on what I should expect to pay for a rehab job - assuming its not a half day job or less.

I don't think there should be any play. You'd want to find a cruiser shop to do the knuckle job since it's a fairly unique type of maintenance. No idea on what they'd charge but probably 1-2 days of labor. I haven't done it myself yet but supposedly it's not that difficult just messy with all the grease.

I think the P.O had the ECU get fried from the an engine harness getting totaled. I though this had to with the 180 pipe valve on top of the engine (the PHH, right?). Good to know about the EGR delete would love to look into it.

PHH = pesky heater hose. That's something else you'll want to address. I think the 180 pipe valve and EGR may be the same thing but I'm not positive. The EGR is a solid pipe on the back of the engine that's maybe 1" diameter.

No sign of the Head Gasket being replaced before, though they did replace the radiator not too long ago though not the water pump. Was thinking it would be worth doing a compression test when I replace the plugs. Never done a leak down before - any other ways to gauge the conditions of the head gasket on these?

Look for white smoke in the exhaust or get a kit that tests the coolant for exhaust gas. It's not something I'd be too worried about if I didn't have symptoms, but I think disabling the EGR is worthwhile.

 

[mcbs]

Right on - only white smoke is coming from cold starts, but I've read that can just be condensation. Not there more than a couple minutes.

You got me curious so I went ahead and took some photos for all of you that love some trauma shots.

Heres the knuckle. The bolts seem snug but there is a serious play in the wheel when jacked. I am betting it needs replacing haha! I am supposed to get an alignment with my new tires tomorrow - probably worth saving the $90 until I get this taken care of, no? Will be calling around tomorrow for shops that can handle this. Anyone with shop recs in the central cali coast feel free to holler at me. I'm betting the bay area is likely to be my best bet, though its a couple hours north...

This is from under the front axle/ oil pan. Wishfully thinking its just old grease from the Valve cover job (10k miles ago) which was the 2nd in the past 50k or so - they must have not done a great job the first go around. However, I realize there could be more than one source.

Currently, I've traced a potential culprit to this seep leak which looks like the head, its on the driver's side front corner of the block. Hard to tell in the photo but it looks like its most wet under that bolt in front of what looks like an empty fastener hole (something I should be concerned about?)

At any rate, there are definitely some problems that need solving here. I will give her a solid bath in the next few days and may put some leak detector in the oil to see if i have anything serious going on. Thoughts?

 

[77mustard40]

That knuckle is well due for a rebuild, I’d do them both. It’s going to be expensive for someone else to do them, sounds like you have the garage space so I’d say it’s time to get dirty; like real dirty. I wouldn’t be driving it with wheel play, is it 12 & 6 o’clock or 3 & 9 o’clock play. Odds are that you’re tearing up a spindle if it lose wheel bearings. A first timer can do it in a weekend assuming you have your parts and tools ready.

 

[mcbs]

That knuckle is well due for a rebuild, I’d do them both. It’s going to be expensive for someone else to do them, sounds like you have the garage space so I’d say it’s time to get dirty; like real dirty. I wouldn’t be driving it with wheel play, is it 12 & 6 o’clock or 3 & 9 o’clock play. Odds are that you’re tearing up a spindle if it lose wheel bearings. A first timer can do it in a weekend assuming you have your parts and tools ready.

Its both, like more than a quarter of an inch in both directions. It does seem straight forward and I am about to rebuild a hub on a trooper, just trying to keep one car on 4 wheels .

Do you have a rec on where to purchase all of the parts?

Thanks.

 

[Brindleboxer]

Its both, like more than a quarter of an inch in both directions. It does seem straight forward and I am about to rebuild a hub on a trooper, just trying to keep one car on 4 wheels .

Do you have a rec on where to purchase all of the parts?

Thanks.

I went through Kurt at @cruiseroutfit (Cruiser Outfitters) for my kit when I did my axle. You will just give them your vehicle info and they will set you up. Seeing the condition of the hub I would do it when you could afford to have the truck down for several days. I am only saying that you don't know what is damage or needing replacement till you tear into it. If you have that much play, like stated, you might have worn hard parts that need to be replaced. Also, when you call ensure you get the nut socket for the rear (this is the same as the front but has notches and more universal) as most parts stores do not carry it. Once you get in there and see if anything needs replacement Cruiser Outfitters can send the parts out (I received my parts within a day).

I know it is semi-taboo to say nowadays but I also heavily relied on a poster that Wit's End sold showing the parts breakdown and gave torque specs for the various parts.

 

[77mustard40]

Do you have a rec on where to purchase all of the parts?

Thanks.

Cruiser Outfitters in SLC has the complete kit. I'd replace the bearings for sure since its new to you, you can see if you need a spindle once its torn down. Make sure to get the 54MM socket for the lock nuts if you dont have one. Brass hammer and drift, the metric HB seal driver kit has worked for me.

 

[Brindleboxer]

Right on - only white smoke is coming from cold starts, but I've read that can just be condensation. Not there more than a couple minutes.

You got me curious so I went ahead and took some photos for all of you that love some trauma shots.

Heres the knuckle. The bolts seem snug but there is a serious play in the wheel when jacked. I am betting it needs replacing haha! I am supposed to get an alignment with my new tires tomorrow - probably worth saving the $90 until I get this taken care of, no? Will be calling around tomorrow for shops that can handle this. Anyone with shop recs in the central cali coast feel free to holler at me. I'm betting the bay area is likely to be my best bet, though its a couple hours north...

View attachment 3575918

This is from under the front axle/ oil pan. Wishfully thinking its just old grease from the Valve cover job (10k miles ago) which was the 2nd in the past 50k or so - they must have not done a great job the first go around. However, I realize there could be more than one source.

View attachment 3575920

Currently, I've traced a potential culprit to this seep leak which looks like the head, its on the driver's side front corner of the block. Hard to tell in the photo but it looks like its most wet under that bolt in front of what looks like an empty fastener hole (something I should be concerned about?)

View attachment 3575921

At any rate, there are definitely some problems that need solving here. I will give her a solid bath in the next few days and may put some leak detector in the oil to see if i have anything serious going on. Thoughts?

A picture from a bit further away would be nice to get an orientation of the photo you posted. On that side of the motor and if it is higher up there are really only two culprits (distributor o-ring or valve cover). Would concur about cleaning it, that way you ascertain where the leak is originating. Also, you will appreciate cleaning prior to the knuckle job since it is inherently a dirty job and removing some of the excess grease and road grime will just lend to a more efficient R&R.

 

[mcbs]

I went through Kurt at @cruiseroutfit (Cruiser Outfitters) for my kit when I did my axle. You will just give them your vehicle info and they will set you up. Seeing the condition of the hub I would do it when you could afford to have the truck down for several days. I am only saying that you don't know what is damage or needing replacement till you tear into it. If you have that much play, like stated, you might have worn hard parts that need to be replaced. Also, when you call ensure you get the nut socket for the rear (this is the same as the front but has notches and more universal) as most parts stores do not carry it. Once you get in there and see if anything needs replacement Cruiser Outfitters can send the parts out (I received my parts within a day).

I know it is semi-taboo to say nowadays but I also heavily relied on a poster that Wit's End sold showi9ng the parts breakdown and gave torque specs for the various parts.

Cruiser Outfitters in SLC has the complete kit. I'd replace the bearings for sure since its new to you, you can see if you need a spindle once its torn down. Make sure to get the 54MM socket for the lock nuts if you dont have one. Brass hammer and drift, the metric HB seal driver kit has worked for me.

Thanks for setting the expectations. There is a machine shop that can pack all of this locally so may just have them do that dirty work. Will definitely clean her up so I can see whats going on. How often does the CV need replacing when the knuckles are replaced? Worth just doing because everything is out already? Again - this rig is just going to be a pavement queen.

Found this video -

Seems like he's got a real methodical process and is detailed. Found a shop that can re-assemble and the machine shop is next door. Will look into their estimates and see what makes sense.

A picture from a bit further away would be nice to get an orientation of the photo you posted. On that side of the motor and if it is higher up there are really only two culprits (distributor o-ring or valve cover). Would concur about cleaning it, that way you ascertain where the leak is originating. Also, you will appreciate cleaning prior to the knuckle job since it is inherently a dirty job and removing some of the excess grease and road grime will just lend to a more efficient R&R.

Yeah - it was late and my better light was deep in the 4runner above the diff as i have the remnants of a seized abs sensor there . Will work to get some better shots.

 

[duece71]

OP, you can do an engine oil analysis through Blackstone Labs in Ft. Wayne IN to check for anything in the oil (Coolant, metals etc..). For $35 it is peace of mind. I have the Cruiser Outfitters knuckle rebuild kit and they give you an option on which bearings you want, Koyo or Timken. The Witts End poster is really nice and helpful and I think it is still available.

 

[mcbs]

OP, you can do an engine oil analysis through Blackstone Labs in Ft. Wayne IN to check for anything in the oil (Coolant, metals etc..). For $35 it is peace of mind. I have the Cruiser Outfitters knuckle rebuild kit and they give you an option on which bearings you want, Koyo or Timken. The Witts End poster is really nice and helpful and I think it is still available.

Definitely planning on it. Worth doing with the Oil in there currently? This will be the first oil change I do on the rig. Don't know how long its been in there, so was thinking I'd do the analysis in 5k miles. Or maybe its worth doing now and then...?

 

[duece71]

Definitely planning on it. Worth doing with the Oil in there currently? This will be the first oil change I do on the rig. Don't know how long its been in there, so was thinking I'd do the analysis in 5k miles. Or maybe its worth doing now and then...?

If it were me, I would do it with THIS coming oil change. $35 is peace of mind anytime.

 

[duece71]

OP,
You might be able to go to any Lexus dealer, give them the VIN and have them do a search for records. If it has been serviced at all by Toyota or Lexus dealer or approved shop, the dealership could print the records off for you. I cant confirm if this is possible but its free to look anyway. Maybe you get charged for the print out.

 

[mcbs]

Have both Knuckles pulled apart and pretty much cleaned. Sadly have to put the project down for a few days but its in a good stopping point.

Before diving into it today, took the rig out for a little spin to heat the oil in the diff up before draining it. Was able to get this video of the steering sounds coming from my wheel. Any thoughts?

 

[CharlieS]

Maybe your clock spring?

In my '94 that sound came from a worn spring loaded brass pin that makes the horn work. Looks like post 95 airbag cars don't have this part.

 

[mcbs]

Maybe your clock spring?

In my '94 that sound came from a worn spring loaded brass pin that makes the horn work. Looks like post 95 airbag cars don't have this part.

copy - not sure what that is but will look into it!

 

[CharlieS]

It goes between the steering wheel and the column and maintains the electrical connections to the horn, airbag, etc when you turn the wheel

95-97 80 series, 96 and 97 LX450 "clock spring assembly" [84306-24010] install (AKA "why isn't my late 80 series airbag or horn working etcetera?")

so thanks a lot to everyone that was able to help on this one. my symptoms were a non-working horn and a couple of months ago i accidentally bought the $10 brass plunger deal with the spring on it which is for the earlier 80. so i tore it apart and got to the clock spring and had to back out...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mcbs]

It goes between the steering wheel and the column and maintains the electrical connections to the horn, airbag, etc when you turn the wheel

95-97 80 series, 96 and 97 LX450 "clock spring assembly" [84306-24010] install (AKA "why isn't my late 80 series airbag or horn working etcetera?")

so thanks a lot to everyone that was able to help on this one. my symptoms were a non-working horn and a couple of months ago i accidentally bought the $10 brass plunger deal with the spring on it which is for the earlier 80. so i tore it apart and got to the clock spring and had to back out...

forum.ih8mud.com

Rad thank you!

Anyone have advice on intake hoses? I went to pull mine to do my Spark Plugs and it was solidly seized on there. Went to pull it and it just ripped right in the center of the hose. Time for a replacement! Where's the best value/deal?

On the Spark Plugs - went with the Denso Iridium 16's. Still new to analyzing plugs. Any thoughts on spark plug wires? Stupidly didn't buy them when I bought the plugs.

Also - Knuckle job is almost complete. Have the Passenger side done with new inner and outer wheel bearings. Cruiser outfitters messed up the order so I am still waiting on my other inner. Once that's here, the knuckles will be all buttoned up.

Lastly - found that my torque wrench is a bit faulty at the lower end - snapped a bolt for the ABS sensor. Surprised at how little torque it took. Anything special about these bolts or am I ok to just swap in an oreilly's replacement grade, 10 of course.

 

[CharlieS]

Any dealer can get you a new intake hose. I ordered mine off an ebay seller in Japan for a good discount.

Toyota plugs are gawdawful inexpensive and work well.

Any metric bolt will work fine for your abs sensor. I stock a variety of jis flange bolts for occasions like that.

The oem spark plug wire set is worth paying for. I'm running some densos that work fine, but they're not as perfect lenght as the originals and don't come with any of the cable management bits the oem ones have.

You may be better off with a inch pound wrench for smaller fasteners. I don't get too fussy about the torque of non critical fasteners.