Inquiry regarding GRRRR GRRRRR sound after lift

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Apr 25, 2005
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Austin, TX
 
So I get an OME 2" lift installed and some BFG 295's so I'm like "Yeah!" But then I heard a noise. Sounded like driving on textured pavement on the sides of highways that let you know your on the shoulder. It wasn't quite that loud at first, but it's getting louder.

It happens between 30-60 when I let off the gas, and it's intermittent. Any ideas? I took it back to the shop that did the lift today, and after keeping all day, they charged me a hundred+ bucks to inspect and tighten a loose wheel bearing. No dice. I picked it up on my way to work, so I may go back tomorrow. Sounds like it's coming from the passenger front wheel.

A quick look underneath didn't reveal anything. The fron driveshaft isn't near anything that could be rubbing.

Confused,
Brian
 
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How should I check them? Do the have grease fittings? I'm not entirely lazy; I'm at work, and don't have the truck or service manual with me.
 
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Austin, TX
 
Road Test: Haven't been home to grease the U's yet, but I just made the block and noticed that the growl that I usually hear while deccelerating, can also be heard for a split second when I accelerate (if I'm in the 45-60 mph range). Here's hoping I don't have diff probs...
 
R

robbie

Guest
grease the u-joint and see if the sound goes away. If not check the out puts on the t-case. If any leaks, or loosness of the t-case house(moves up and down too much) May have to put new bearings in the t-case outputs. How many miles on the truck? robbie
 
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I'll check that too. Sounds like the noise is further forward than the t-case. Hope so at least. Need to figure out a way to ride under the truck. 123K... Grease and shaft wiggling scheduled for tomorrow morning. Gotta head to scuba class...
 
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Austin, TX
 
Greased U-joints and changed diff oil... no luck. Grrrrr grrrrrrr. Think I'm going to have U-joints replaced as advised by LCS if they still think that's the prob once they hear it. They also mentioned a transfer case rebuild they had to do recently that was $$$$.

What color should used diff oil be anyway? Grey right? Found a couple of metal slivers on the inside of the plug. Hmmmm.
 
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Chandler, AZ
 
 
Are the castor bushings installed? If not they will make a difference in the driveshaft angle.

Gear oil is tan, may have some moly grease from the birfs in it, a "couple" of slivers is normal, a bunch is not.

Getting scuba certified? I just got back from blowing bubbles in St Thomas.
 
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Austin, TX
 
Yeah, castor bushings are in. Diff oil was definitely not tan. But, probably not the culprit of the intermittent grinding noise. The OME steering stabilizer rattles a little bit when I tug on it. The cover piece contacts the shock body. Still don't think that's it, but I may pull it off to check.

Honeymoon in Belize is in two weeks... getting the scuba cert. to keep up with the misses (to be). Should be fun... I'm having fun in just the swimming pool! Heading to the lake Sat/Sun to finish cert.
 
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Jan 26, 2005
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Eagle, Idaho
 
brianinaustin said:
A quick look underneath didn't reveal anything. The fron driveshaft isn't near anything that could be rubbing.

Confused,
Brian
Did you put Exxon gas in your gas at the same time?
You may have a Tiger in your tank?

Antonio
 
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Jun 25, 2003
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Rixeyville, VA
 
 
 
Brian,

I have had my ome for about a monthy now with 285's and have the exact. i mean the exact same problem. i've gone through everything everyone has suggested and still its has the same grrr sound that seems to come from the front pass area as you say....i'll keep you updated if i find something but right now im trying to live with the grind. But its killing me.

Keep me updated.
brandon
 
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Apr 25, 2005
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Austin, TX
 
By "dry" does that mean they need grease? Is that the grease fitting on the axle near the front u-joint (but not the one in it)? I thnk I got grease into that one, but a lot of it missed. I think I got enough in there that it came out the front of the axle/rear of the u-joint, but it was pretty gooped up after greasing the spider.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
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brianinaustin said:
By "dry" does that mean they need grease? Is that the grease fitting on the axle near the front u-joint (but not the one in it)? I thnk I got grease into that one, but a lot of it missed. I think I got enough in there that it came out the front of the axle/rear of the u-joint, but it was pretty gooped up after greasing the spider.

Negative - not on the drive shaft at all (and PS, be careful not to overgreae the shaft - do a search on this topic).

Read this thread and do the check that is outlined:

Dry spindle / Brass Bushing

As you will see, similar noise - my bushing actually failed on the PS coming off of a trail. It was a costly repair at the dealer.

Cheers, Hugh
 

Taz

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Mar 27, 2003
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339
Location
San Juan Capistrano
I have had the exact same vibration for 2 (30,000 miles) years now, I gave up about a year ago. What is ment by "I had the front prop shaft removed and changed the phasing to be 90 degrees out and had it rebalanced afterwords"? Does he mean the front drive shaft? Rebalanced? I have 5" of lift. The vibration/noise started about 5000 miles after the lift was installed.
 
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South Africa
Welcome to the GRRRR after 2' lift club. There should be a special club for us, like the birfield club, to which i also belong.

Well I also had the GRRRR sound and have solved it.... well sort off...

Vehicle is 105 series SFA, SRA. Fitted the OME heavy duty kit. Front 850 and rear 864 coils and OME castor kit.

What I all did...
1. Replace Transfer output bearing, front and rear. Did not solve it.
2. Balanced front and rear props. Did not solve it.
3. Checked u-joints, spline and make sure properly greased. Did not solve it.
4. Removed birflieds, repacked them, check bushings, splines, knuckles, nothing wrong.
5. Set pinion freeplay. Did not solve it.
6. Open and strip front diff, check bearings, crownwheel pinion etc, no problems, set crownwheel reload bearing. Did not solve it.
7. Remove front prop shaft. Problem is gone.
8. Fit front prop, problem is back. sigh sigh sigh.
9. Remove OME850 coil and fit OME851. Problem partly solved.
10. Correct front U-joint phasing to 90 degrees out of phase. PROBLEM totally SOLVED.

But now the cruiser is running downhill.
Rear lift measured front the bottom of the rim to the wheel arch is 865mm and front is 790mm. Fit 3x5mm OME spacers (total 15mm). Front is now after fitting of the spacers sitting at 815mm. PROBLEM partly back. Removed 5mm spacer. PROBLEM SOLVED AGAIN.

The problem is the angle no doubt. I think the problem is related to the U-joints that can not handle the angle at above certain speed. The grrrrr sound start when decellerating. Typically this means that the one u-joint is slowing down and the other is speeding up (IIRC due to the off centre angles)

IMHO, you either drop the suspension a little bit, have a prop made up with bigger U-joint that can handle the u-joint angle at a higher speed. or life with it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
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3,767
Location
Rixeyville, VA
 
 
 
Bongani,


Thanks for the information. I think it should save alot of trouble for alot of people. We can all avoid doing all those things and head straight the the u-joint phase issue. I have the grind and i guess i know what i need to do now.....i have 1 inch front spacer and now am debating if putting them on will hurt it even more.
Also, you say we should drop a the susp. a little. What about those running J's with spacers, or even slee 6 inch coils?
 
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