Builds indycole's 2016 200 Series Build and Retrospective (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter indycole
- Start date
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wardharris
SILVER Star
We like that stuff!!
Coming from the child passenger safety industry - I applaud your use of tie down straps for items being carried inside the vehicle. Most would be surprised to learn the rate of injury to passengers (especially in the case of a roll-over) caused by unsecured items in the back of a mini-van or SUV (the two most popular vehicle choices for families with kids. Even things like 30 lb strollers can come flying at your head at the same rate of speed you were just travelling..... F=M*A
Oh, and I'm also totally jealous of the cool stuff you are putting on!!
Ha! And again - who says a mild case of OCD is a bad thing? In this case it could save your life! And in other cases it assures a clean, well organized car/garage/home, etc.... I'm still at a loss for why so many doctors are trying to cure it!
Atwalz
Civil Engineer
That was your rig it was posted on FB page of Valley Hybrids few days ago. Good stuff.
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #69
The screens come off pretty easily -- pry off the lower panel, remove some bolts, disconnect some wires and you're done. Unfortunately, you're left with a pretty large hole in the back of the seat and a few bolts sticking out that would be pretty dangerous in a collision to anyone in the rear cabin.
I removed the screens as part of installing the Escape Gear seat covers and thus did not need an immediate solution that looks good. I simply crafted a gnarly-looking device out of foam and rubber to fill in the area and protect the remaining bolts. Everything is covered up by the seat cover.
That said, I don't see it as the final solution by any means. I work in product design and have mocked up a few ideas that are functional enough but it's not quite there. I'm kind of hoping one of our forum vendors comes up with a solution as it's not really worth my own R&D time.
I removed the screens as part of installing the Escape Gear seat covers and thus did not need an immediate solution that looks good. I simply crafted a gnarly-looking device out of foam and rubber to fill in the area and protect the remaining bolts. Everything is covered up by the seat cover.
That said, I don't see it as the final solution by any means. I work in product design and have mocked up a few ideas that are functional enough but it's not quite there. I'm kind of hoping one of our forum vendors comes up with a solution as it's not really worth my own R&D time.
Agree that the screens are a PIA and mine are coming out in short order. I have design ideas for a seat plug but I too welcome others ideas. My schedule just has not allowed me to focus on this. I'm confident that there will be a solution soon and that many will adapt. I'm also pretty sure that MR. T has gotten the message on these unwanted accessories, but for those of us stuck with them, there will be a solution soon. Keep the faith Mud members!
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #71
The biggest issue to me is finding a material that meshes with the interior. First, I tried some ABS finishes and it just doesn't look right. Next, I'm thinking harvesting some leather from a spare set of the knee cushions to the left and right of the console.
I also think some anodized aluminum or powder coat would look okay.
I also think some anodized aluminum or powder coat would look okay.
I am working on a carbon fiber cover/plug. I agree that matching leather would be nice and I think rather straightforward (given the material). However, I like the look of carbon fiber weave and it fits with my black interior so that is the direction I am going at this juncture. Local resources available which help. Nonetheless, I will applaud the first decent solution, whom ever makes it happen.
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #74
The regear and locker installation is in progress. There have been some obstacles to overcome in installing 4.88 Nitro gears on the 2016 given some changes in the drivetrain (6 speed to 8 speed among other things). Let's just say that I'm beyond glad that the truck is in the very capable hands of Georg and Crew at Valley Hybrids.
I'll leave y'all with more suspense than information for the time being; however, if you own a 2016 or 2017 and are thinking of re-gearing, I highly suggest you wait to see how this pans out.
I'll leave y'all with more suspense than information for the time being; however, if you own a 2016 or 2017 and are thinking of re-gearing, I highly suggest you wait to see how this pans out.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
Did the actual gear housings change, or is the problem the computer doesn't tolerate the change?
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #76
I don't recall the full extent of the challenges but I do believe that we are replacing the third member from a pre-2016 truck because the gears don't physically fit. I believe the differential housing remains the same. There were some complications with the front as well but I think they were resolved with additional parts from Nitro / Just Differentials (though I don't know if those were incremental parts or parts that were omitted in the original kit). I should know more on Tue/Wed.
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #77
It's time for an update.
I'm happy to say that the truck now features front lockers, rear lockers, and 4.88 gears. It took a bit longer than planned, but I have to highlight the pioneering work that Georg (@orangefj45), Dominic, Clint, and team at Valley Hybrids put in to complete the install. Many, many, thanks to that crew for rolling with some surprises during the install and keeping me in the loop all the while.
I alluded to some of the complications in an earlier post, but here's what you need to know if you'd like to install gears on a 2016 or later 200. In short, the gear kit that we all tend to use for the 200 simply does not seem to work as a drop-in replacement. In order to complete the install, we had to replace the third member housing with a pre-2016 housing and custom-machine pinion spacers for both the front and rear. I believe my original third member housing will be sent to the Nitro/JD team for further investigation and research.
So, if gears are on your list, then plan on buying a third member, budget some time/money for custom pinion spacers, and make sure you find a solid shop that knows how to work on diffs (like Valley Hybrids if you're in the CA/NV area). Or, wait to see if Nitro/JD updates their kit with new parts.
I opted for the air-on-board switches. They're wired so that the front locker will not activate unless the rear is active. I'm thinking of installing a locker kill-switch either in the cabin or under the hood for when other folks drive the car. Do folks do this?
Here's what the truck looks like with gears and lockers Actually, I also got OME 2724 880 lb (400 lbf / in) springs installed which clearly relieved my sagging rear end. There may even be a bit of rake now? I'll have to measure. I was afraid that I went too aggressive with the spring rate, but I've been absolutely pleased with the ride quality so far.
I'm happy to say that the truck now features front lockers, rear lockers, and 4.88 gears. It took a bit longer than planned, but I have to highlight the pioneering work that Georg (@orangefj45), Dominic, Clint, and team at Valley Hybrids put in to complete the install. Many, many, thanks to that crew for rolling with some surprises during the install and keeping me in the loop all the while.
I alluded to some of the complications in an earlier post, but here's what you need to know if you'd like to install gears on a 2016 or later 200. In short, the gear kit that we all tend to use for the 200 simply does not seem to work as a drop-in replacement. In order to complete the install, we had to replace the third member housing with a pre-2016 housing and custom-machine pinion spacers for both the front and rear. I believe my original third member housing will be sent to the Nitro/JD team for further investigation and research.
So, if gears are on your list, then plan on buying a third member, budget some time/money for custom pinion spacers, and make sure you find a solid shop that knows how to work on diffs (like Valley Hybrids if you're in the CA/NV area). Or, wait to see if Nitro/JD updates their kit with new parts.
I opted for the air-on-board switches. They're wired so that the front locker will not activate unless the rear is active. I'm thinking of installing a locker kill-switch either in the cabin or under the hood for when other folks drive the car. Do folks do this?
Here's what the truck looks like with gears and lockers
Actually, I also got OME 2724 880 lb (400 lbf / in) springs installed which clearly relieved my sagging rear end. There may even be a bit of rake now? I'll have to measure. I was afraid that I went too aggressive with the spring rate, but I've been absolutely pleased with the ride quality so far.
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
All the info is correct. We've been in contact with the guys @Nitro the entire time. We've supplied them with the proper pinion spacer lengths for the front and rear. They're both different than anything else we've come across.
I'm sure that ultimately they'll develop a gear set for the later rear housing. And the pinion spacers shouldn't be a big deal.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
indycole
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #79
I made some minor changes to my roof rack electrical setup this week. When I purchased my Gamiviti rack, I elected to include a set of four small LED lights for camp lighting. The lights all ran off of a circuit controlled from the cab, but the setup turned out to be a bit awkward due to the rears not being useful while the tailgate was up. Also, one of the side lights is blocked by the awning.
Most often, I use the rear lights as dust lights so I decided to replace the rear lights with a proper dust light -- the S2 Pro from Baja Designs. I also removed all the other camp lights and installed an auxiliary 12v plug and USB plugs which we plan on using from the RTT.
The auxiliary power box is a simple waterproof aluminum enclosure. I installed nutserts in the top of the box and secured it with some M8 screws through the Gamiviti mounting plate.
I have a switch in the cabin that controls power to this part of the roof and then I use the toggle switches there to switch between the dust light, 12v aux power, or turn everything off. There are fuses inside this box for the rear as well as in the main roof electrical control box.
Also, I made a medium-term fix to my bumper after some damage during a recent Death Valley trip. I'll probably end up getting a steel bumper instead of buying and painting a new plastic bumper.
Most often, I use the rear lights as dust lights so I decided to replace the rear lights with a proper dust light -- the S2 Pro from Baja Designs. I also removed all the other camp lights and installed an auxiliary 12v plug and USB plugs which we plan on using from the RTT.
The auxiliary power box is a simple waterproof aluminum enclosure. I installed nutserts in the top of the box and secured it with some M8 screws through the Gamiviti mounting plate.
I have a switch in the cabin that controls power to this part of the roof and then I use the toggle switches there to switch between the dust light, 12v aux power, or turn everything off. There are fuses inside this box for the rear as well as in the main roof electrical control box.
Also, I made a medium-term fix to my bumper after some damage during a recent Death Valley trip. I'll probably end up getting a steel bumper instead of buying and painting a new plastic bumper.
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Like a Beverly Hills plastic surgeon!
I'm diggin' the light setup you have going on...
I'm diggin' the light setup you have going on...
