In need of a CDL Actuator TOYOTA 36410-60050, Getting hard to find !!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Having both rotors side by side was critical. Both rotors had a "starting point" and that was going to be my reference. (see the small commutator with a small trimmed wire tip sticking out)

I have marked the starting point as Red, then the next ones blue, white, green.

IMG_20230715_125313_391.jpg


I starred at both rotors for a good 2 hrs until i knew how to rewind the burnt up coil. It's not easy as the wire can cross each other along the way.

IMG_20230715_125346_157.jpg

With the old burnt up wire removed, i then took measurements and made sur the windinds were still isolated from the frame of the rotor.


IMG_20230715_125806_880.jpg


The tricky part is to open up the wire clamp part of the commutators. This is the copper part that pinches the wires. When putting in a new wire, you have to use sand paper on the end that will get clamp to get good conductivity. BTW: I have almost broke one of the cummutators when trying to pry it open. I have then used a worm clamp to hold them tight together. Use a utility knife blade and a small slotted screwdriver to pry it open.

IMG_20230715_132022_010.jpg


IMG_20230715_132751_740.jpg
 
Here is how it looks on the "good rotor"
IMG_20230715_132814_000.jpg


I have used 0,5mm winding wire. Honestly, it was a bit bigger than needed 0,4 would have been okay. I didnt care about the number of turns, i just filled the slot full of wire. Nor did i car about the weight/balancing. This motor runs 10 minutes in the vehicule's lifetime.

Here is wound up coil

IMG_20230715_135807_253.jpg

Not so pretty, but eh, guess what it works ! Re-assambled and adjusted everything. Be careful with the allen bolt that sets the preload on the rotor. Don't tighten it too much. Here is a video of the rewound rotor working !!!


 
That is awesome! Someone has to know of an electrical winding shop near them. The replacement cost of that part is ridiculous. Awesome job!
 
That is awesome! Someone has to know of an electrical winding shop near them. The replacement cost of that part is ridiculous. Awesome job!
1 coil used half of the 10 meter roll. If i had to rewind the whole rotor, i think it would've needed 30 meters to be safe.

 
Last edited:
Is it possible to remove the electric motor system all together and go manual?

It is a basic function so I can’t see why🤷‍♂️
 
Is it possible to remove the electric motor system all together and go manual?

It is a basic function so I can’t see why🤷‍♂️

Yes, and we are working on a solution for that too.
 
This is just a personal preference, but I like the idea of the electric lockers. There’s a certain amount of intelligence incorporated in the design that allows me to not think about what’s going on. It kind of has my back in case of a push a button or a throw of a lever is at a bad time
 
This is just a personal preference, but I like the idea of the electric lockers. There’s a certain amount of intelligence incorporated in the design that allows me to not think about what’s going on. It kind of has my back in case of a push a button or a throw of a lever is at a bad time

Sounds great... assuming they lock. The issue with OEM e-lockers and the CDL actuator itself is the potential for uncertainty, not the case with the OEM cable lockers for example. They engage/disengage in inches, not feet (or more). If everything is working, the electric actuation is fantastic. When CDL motors start to go south, it's expensive to fix and some have asked about a clean cable option. I don't know that there will be a true market for them but we are starting to see more and more HF2A/HF2AV cases used in older applications for drivetrain swaps so the market could grow. We're tinkering with it.
 
Sounds great... assuming they lock. The issue with OEM e-lockers and the CDL actuator itself is the potential for uncertainty, not the case with the OEM cable lockers for example. They engage/disengage in inches, not feet (or more). If everything is working, the electric actuation is fantastic. When CDL motors start to go south, it's expensive to fix and some have asked about a clean cable option. I don't know that there will be a true market for them but we are starting to see more and more HF2A/HF2AV cases used in older applications for drivetrain swaps so the market could grow. We're tinkering with it.
Totally agree with the idea of a positive lock that I KNOW is engaged or disengaged. After wheeling and I turn off the CDL.. there is always that moment (s) before the diff light goes out.. Same when I start on the trail.. " what if the light doesn't come on? " I would really prefer a lever that I can engage or disengage with confidence. I understand that other things like ABS off are taking place as well with the button. But I really believe that one day.. my CDL will fail (again), and it might not be in a convenient location. If you guys build one.. I will give it a try!!!!
 
Sounds great... assuming they lock. The issue with OEM e-lockers and the CDL actuator itself is the potential for uncertainty, not the case with the OEM cable lockers for example. They engage/disengage in inches, not feet (or more). If everything is working, the electric actuation is fantastic. When CDL motors start to go south, it's expensive to fix and some have asked about a clean cable option. I don't know that there will be a true market for them but we are starting to see more and more HF2A/HF2AV cases used in older applications for drivetrain swaps so the market could grow. We're tinkering with it.
I personally haven’t seen that yet. My biggest issue has been with the sensing switches. These fail from lack of use. The switch that tells the ECU to modify the shift points because you are in low range is one most wouldn’t know is bad. I only found that one to be bad on my truck because I was testing the switches just to be thorough.

If you are up in there for a CDL issue I’d change out all 3 switches just because.
 
I personally haven’t seen that yet. My biggest issue has been with the sensing switches. These fail from lack of use. The switch that tells the ECU to modify the shift points because you are in low range is one most wouldn’t know is bad. I only found that one to be bad on my truck because I was testing the switches just to be thorough.

If you are up in there for a CDL issue I’d change out all 3 switches just because.
Thanks much!
Yes.. I believe that mine had failed fom lack of use. Previous owner never took the truck off road. I removed the CDL motor .. but could not figure out through means at my disposal how to fix.. even took it to a LC specialty shop who could not revive it either. ..so I replaced it. I have had no issues with it since I replaced with new, and I exercise it regularly. Thanks again for the insight.
 
No. I have not but I have obtained very EOL’d late 80’s Yamaha snowblower parts from them I couldn’t get elsewhere.

I’ve had plenty of Megazip orders cancelled for lack of inventory but my Impex has always gone through once you figure out their odd shipping setup.
 
I'm looking to build one harness for a customer's build @cruiseroutfit offers them with there 100 actuator and tcase would be months till I could get one.

To clarify, we have the actuators and t-cases in stock and ready to ship with the harness, they are boxed and good to go. An individual harness isn't something we ever planned to sell outside of the actuator or t-case but our guys could build spares next time they do a run of them. Hope that make sense!
 
To clarify, we have the actuators and t-cases in stock and ready to ship with the harness, they are boxed and good to go. An individual harness isn't something we ever planned to sell outside of the actuator or t-case but our guys could build spares next time they do a run of them. Hope that make sense!
Yes And thanks to @cruiseroutfit for all you guys help.. hoping you guys sell everything fast so I can get a harness in like 2 weeks. Lol
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom