Still need a harness? Olly just built another dozen.
In need of a CDL Actuator TOYOTA 36410-60050, Getting hard to find !!
- Thread starter charlay61
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- cdl center diff lock
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Still need a harness? Olly just built another dozen.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Sure do
Say when. I had Olly make a handful extra from this current batch and I went ahead and added them to the computer as a solo part number.
Part# ELEC36410KIT
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Those are sexy. Good work Olly.
was contacted by the owner of the LX450 CDL that was sent to me and spent some time tearing it down.
First, its design and build is very similar to the front and rear actuators with one difference.
The front and rear actuators have grooves cut in the casting that the O-rings sit in and then the cover bolts on and compresses against the O-ring and it's tightened down.
On the CDL that cover is more like a plug as it extends into the body and there is a groove round the extension that the O-ring is placed in and seals against the inside wall of the body.
On this actuator that seal had failed some time ago and corrosion had locked the the cover in place.
I started tapping a utility knife blade at the seam , once there was movement in the cover I them then gradually stepped up to a small screw driver and so on until the cover came off.
Attached are pictures of what I found.
Just like so many diff actuators the corrosion was bad but in this case it was concentrated in the O-ring groove where it caused a section to separate and break off at that grove.
It's no wonder that the 100 series has a new design and this failure point has been removed.
First, its design and build is very similar to the front and rear actuators with one difference.
The front and rear actuators have grooves cut in the casting that the O-rings sit in and then the cover bolts on and compresses against the O-ring and it's tightened down.
On the CDL that cover is more like a plug as it extends into the body and there is a groove round the extension that the O-ring is placed in and seals against the inside wall of the body.
On this actuator that seal had failed some time ago and corrosion had locked the the cover in place.
I started tapping a utility knife blade at the seam , once there was movement in the cover I them then gradually stepped up to a small screw driver and so on until the cover came off.
Attached are pictures of what I found.
Just like so many diff actuators the corrosion was bad but in this case it was concentrated in the O-ring groove where it caused a section to separate and break off at that grove.
It's no wonder that the 100 series has a new design and this failure point has been removed.
In case anyone needs the connector for the 100 series CDL, it is the side keyed version of a Toyota 5-pin igniter harness that came on any number of 90s 4cyl Yota cars. I just so happened to have one in my garage from some work I did on a Corolla a while back. Easily found in any junkyard and available online as a pigtail or bare connector.
This connector below is the right one, facing the connector end it has a larger key on the right side.
There is another version of this connector from the same time period with keying at the bottom that is also used for Igniters... it will not fit the 100 series CDL. 5-pin MAF plugs from Toyotas will not fit as they have equal sized keying on either side (although I suspect a dremel could solve that issue).
This is the connector you do not want, it's easy to see the difference with it's key on the bottom of the connector.
This connector below is the right one, facing the connector end it has a larger key on the right side.
There is another version of this connector from the same time period with keying at the bottom that is also used for Igniters... it will not fit the 100 series CDL. 5-pin MAF plugs from Toyotas will not fit as they have equal sized keying on either side (although I suspect a dremel could solve that issue).
This is the connector you do not want, it's easy to see the difference with it's key on the bottom of the connector.
tore into the 100 series CDL today.
First off it's a plastic housing bolted to the aluminum base. All the bolts easily came out. The bolts to the base are threaded into the aluminum and the bolts to the armature cover thread into brass inserts.
The main problem with this CDL is that it was full of gear oil. The armature had a thick black layer on it from working in all that oil inside.
The main O-ring sits on a ledge and when installed it seals to the inside aluminum housing against an apposing ledge.
all this makes for a design that is much more likely to be successfully rebuilt with little to no drama.
I have 2 used 80 series CDLs and 2 used 100 Series CDLs on their way as well as the needed o-rings to build out rebuild kits.
Attached are photos of the 100 CDL, the sorry about the blurry dirty armature pic but you should get the idea of the issue. The clean armature is after a light touch with a wheel.
First off it's a plastic housing bolted to the aluminum base. All the bolts easily came out. The bolts to the base are threaded into the aluminum and the bolts to the armature cover thread into brass inserts.
The main problem with this CDL is that it was full of gear oil. The armature had a thick black layer on it from working in all that oil inside.
The main O-ring sits on a ledge and when installed it seals to the inside aluminum housing against an apposing ledge.
all this makes for a design that is much more likely to be successfully rebuilt with little to no drama.
I have 2 used 80 series CDLs and 2 used 100 Series CDLs on their way as well as the needed o-rings to build out rebuild kits.
Attached are photos of the 100 CDL, the sorry about the blurry dirty armature pic but you should get the idea of the issue. The clean armature is after a light touch with a wheel.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Got my harness from @cruiseroutfit and redid the oem tcase harness loom for the swap I'm doing thanks @cruiseroutfit as everyone knows great customer service/ support and communication! Pics just cause everyone loves pictures.
Tommy
Tommy
Tidy! 
So received one of the 80 series CDL actuator and what a difference. Attached is a photo of the main cover removed. You can clearly see what I was trying to explain
Great work.
So looks like (as Landtank shows above) in the 80 series motor the water gets to the aluminum lid/housing before the O-ring causing corrosion/oxidation which eventually allows seepage of water to get past the O-ring. In addition the way the O-ring is located in the 80 motor may make it more likely to get seapage even without corrosion?? Whereas in the 100 series motor the (plastic) lid presses down onto the O-ring in the housing resulting in a better seal, and then it's all plastic so no corrosion??
So does it seem reasonable for anyone with an 80 series motor (as a PM) to take that motor apart, replace the O-ring, and then add a ? non-hardening sealant to the top/lid before it ends up corroded (if it isn't already)??
So looks like (as Landtank shows above) in the 80 series motor the water gets to the aluminum lid/housing before the O-ring causing corrosion/oxidation which eventually allows seepage of water to get past the O-ring. In addition the way the O-ring is located in the 80 motor may make it more likely to get seapage even without corrosion?? Whereas in the 100 series motor the (plastic) lid presses down onto the O-ring in the housing resulting in a better seal, and then it's all plastic so no corrosion??
So does it seem reasonable for anyone with an 80 series motor (as a PM) to take that motor apart, replace the O-ring, and then add a ? non-hardening sealant to the top/lid before it ends up corroded (if it isn't already)??
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Replacing that o-ring could be challenging. You will need to guess at what to use as Toyota does not service it.
Landtank offers a rebuild kit including O-rings for the E-locker:
E-Locker Actuator kits
These kits contain all the needed Seals, O-Rings, Screws and Bolts to dissemble, clean and reseal your actuator. There are 2 variants available: 9.5" which is for the rear diff of a 80 and 100 series Land Cruiser 8" which is for the front diff of an 80 series and the rear of a Tacoma, 4Runner...
landtankproducts.com
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For the 80 series CDL I already have all the parts to build out a repair kit.
It uses the same o-rings found in the axle actuators, just in a different group.
I just need to order m6 Philip screws as the axle actuators use bolts. I’ll have those today.
I prefer SuperLube over what Toyota uses. It’s dielectric, is commonly used on O-rings and doesn’t dry out and harden like the Toyota stuff.
I’ll be coating the parts at the seam prior to assembly in hopes of providing some sealing in that area.
One trouble area is the vent. Like our axles, if the vent becomes restricted it can creat a low pressure situation during the cooling of the t-case once the truck is parked. This could contribute to moisture being drawn in. I would check that.
On the corroded actuator the boot on one of wire harnesses was torn and lost it’s seal. This is another area where the 100 series CDL is better as it has a molded water tight connector for all 5 connections.
It uses the same o-rings found in the axle actuators, just in a different group.
I just need to order m6 Philip screws as the axle actuators use bolts. I’ll have those today.
I prefer SuperLube over what Toyota uses. It’s dielectric, is commonly used on O-rings and doesn’t dry out and harden like the Toyota stuff.
I’ll be coating the parts at the seam prior to assembly in hopes of providing some sealing in that area.
One trouble area is the vent. Like our axles, if the vent becomes restricted it can creat a low pressure situation during the cooling of the t-case once the truck is parked. This could contribute to moisture being drawn in. I would check that.
On the corroded actuator the boot on one of wire harnesses was torn and lost it’s seal. This is another area where the 100 series CDL is better as it has a molded water tight connector for all 5 connections.
Hey Kurt- Todd here. These look to be out of stock on the website. Are there any available? Also, to be clear- it seems that the 100 Series CDL actuator will work for an early 80 series 1991-1992 with this harnes adaptor? Can one just buy the 100 series CDL actuator and use this adaptor. I can buy both from you if you have in stock.
We are on a build here of a cool HDJ80 and have confirmed the CDL actuator is not working after tearing into it. The 1993-1997 (3 bolt) are available, but I guess 1991-1992 are not (4 bolt). Thanks for your help- we are stuck here in the shop until we can figure a solution.
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1991-1997 use the same part number for the CDL assembly. 36410-60041 has been replaced by 36410-60050.
I've got a good 80 series CDL that i can refurb and test for you. I'm off for 2 weeks and have time to do this.
let me know
Hmmm, I'm not up to speed on 3 vs 4 bolt. Everything I recall is that the 60040 & 60041 (also discontinued) supercede to the recently discontinued 60050.
Yes, with our kit the 100/470 CDL (avail new) is a direct fit to the 80/450. We have more harness kits being built, they’ll get added to CruiserTeq on Monday.
