In need of a CDL Actuator TOYOTA 36410-60050, Getting hard to find !! (1 Viewer)

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Hello to everyone from Bulgaria.
The rotor on my CDL had a burnt coil. I gave it for rewinding at a shop, and after that for a year it was operating not properly - slow and stopping responding from time to time.
Yesterday I dismantled the CDL, rewound the rotor and installed it. It took me half a day.
Unfortunately I did not take photos, since I was alone and in a hurry.
Thanks for all the threads and information!
Some input from my experience, which might be useful:
1. I managed to dismantle the CDL without lowering the gearbox support with jack. You need to unscrew the eight bolts half the way out. This allows to put your hands between the CDL and body and to unscrew the four bolts holding it to the transfer case. Tricky but possible with a 12mm wrench.
2. Instructions how to rewind the rotor I found in a Russian Toyota forum. I am attaching some photos. Even in Russian, the photos are quite clear and understandable.
The original wire is 0.43mm, but 0.4mm is fine.
Each coil hac 62 turns.
The end of the last coil should pass to the beginning of the first coil and they are soldered together.

Just to add, that this was my first attempt to rewind an electric motor.
The result is significantly better response, shorter time for lock and unlock.

CDL1.jpg


CDL2.jpg


CDL3.jpg


CDL4.jpg


CDL5.jpg
 
Hello guys,

Since the first post did you guys managed to find a supplier ? i just contacted one from Chongqing, China that seems to make this particular CDL actuator for our 80 series ( 36410-60050 36410-60040 36410-60041 ) If i manage to get my hands on it i will give some feedback here.

Here is the link : Transfer Shift Actuator 36410-60050 36410-60040 For Toyota Land Cruiser 199001-200701 - Buy 36410-60050 36410-60040,Transfer Shift Actuator,For Toyota Land Cruiser 199001-200701 Product on Alibaba.com - https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Transfer-Shift-Actuator-36410-60050-36410_1600838379739.html?spm=a2700.details.you_may_like.1.72aa1d30HHxCDP

Regards
Laurent
 
Keep us posted about the Chinese made one. For a 1/5 of the price, it might be worth a shot to those who’s actuators are toast
 
Just in case anyone is looking, I found a chinese knock-off 100 series CDL actuator on ebay for $151, free shipping. It's not a very complicated part but we will see how it holds up.

The only thing though, is I think they made a mistake with the pricing, and after I ordered it the price on their ebay page pretty much doubled. You might be able to get them to bring it back down again if you try. So far they are pretty responsive.

If there's interest I'll keep you all updated with how it works out.

cdl.JPG
 
SUCCESS!

The china made 100 series actuator works. I used the Cruser Tek 100 series to 80 series pigtail and just finished installing it. Works like a champ.

The only thing that needs further work is one of the original bolts is about 1/4" too long for the new actuator but that's easily remedied with a trip to tractor supply co and it's an easy one to get to, no need to lower the cross member for it.

How long it will last is up in the air, but it's not a very complicated device so fingers crossed.
Just in case anyone is looking, I found a chinese knock-off 100 series CDL actuator on ebay for $151, free shipping. It's not a very complicated part but we will see how it holds up.

The only thing though, is I think they made a mistake with the pricing, and after I ordered it the price on their ebay page pretty much doubled. You might be able to get them to bring it back down again if you try. So far they are pretty responsive.

If there's interest I'll keep you all updated with how it works out.

View attachment 3817833
 
FUUUUUUUUU

Ok, this is a CDL thread so I'll post it in here.

That 100 series CDL burned up first time out today in the mud. Like, completely fried itself, could smell burning electronics in the cab and see smoke coming from it. It would engage the other day, but after trying today, nothing, then burning.

My OEM one is also burned but not as bad, 2 blackened coils on the motor windings.

WHAT THE HELL?

What would cause the motors to burn up like this? I installed it with the motor in the locked position and the case locked per OEM procedure. It worked fine, and now it's a crumbling piece of carbon inside.
 
FUUUUUUUUU

Ok, this is a CDL thread so I'll post it in here.

That 100 series CDL burned up first time out today in the mud. Like, completely fried itself, could smell burning electronics in the cab and see smoke coming from it. It would engage the other day, but after trying today, nothing, then burning.

My OEM one is also burned but not as bad, 2 blackened coils on the motor windings.

WHAT THE HELL?

What would cause the motors to burn up like this? I installed it with the motor in the locked position and the case locked per OEM procedure. It worked fine, and now it's a crumbling piece of carbon inside.
Sh**it man i was reading you thread and be like "gosh why did i paid 300euro for a second hand CDL ..."

I could be wrong but would be possible that it's not the Ebay CDL fault if you factory one is also burned... Adding a fuse next time on the wire could be a good idea maybe ? Dont give up, there is a tuto on this forum from a Russian (or Slavic) guy who shoe how to redo the coil. Seems easy ...

Did you watch that Ozzy on youtube (Arvo something...) he did a rebuild of the CDL and burned it as well. Have a look it could give you some idea. He ended up burning his relay as well ... :(

Regarding that Alibaba option, the lady is really useless, keeping on sending the same hello message at every message i send *pfff* ...
 
Sh**it man i was reading you thread and be like "gosh why did i paid 300euro for a second hand CDL ..."

I could be wrong but would be possible that it's not the Ebay CDL fault if you factory one is also burned... Adding a fuse next time on the wire could be a good idea maybe ? Dont give up, there is a tuto on this forum from a Russian (or Slavic) guy who shoe how to redo the coil. Seems easy ...

Did you watch that Ozzy on youtube (Arvo something...) he did a rebuild of the CDL and burned it as well. Have a look it could give you some idea. He ended up burning his relay as well ... :(

Regarding that Alibaba option, the lady is really useless, keeping on sending the same hello message at every message i send *pfff* ...
From what I can tell... I may not have had the center diff in the full lock position. So when I actuated it, it never rotated far enough to engage the automatic stop, which caused it to continue to draw current and fry itself.

I still have my OEM actuator, I'm just going to re-wind it and see if I can figure out how to get it into full lock before installing again.
 
You guys ever come up with any bright ideas around this?

Some early concepts but nothing marketable yet. I did see a FB pose where a group in the Phillipines? that was building a alternative engagement method. Sorry, I don't recall if they were using air/vaccum or a cable/linkage.
 
Some early concepts but nothing marketable yet. I did see a FB pose where a group in the Phillipines? that was building a alternative engagement method. Sorry, I don't recall if they were using air/vaccum or a cable/linkage.
I'm interested in any solutions people come up with in this area. I have a part-time 80 with the HF1A transfer case, and the main reason I currently consider that superior to the HF2A/HF2AV is due to no reliance on electronics. If there was an all-mechanical center diff lock engagement for the HF2AV I'd probably swap over to that.

I'd planned to check the viability myself of making the center diff lock lever driven if I have a HF2A in pieces one day. From what I've seen of the schematics, I think it should be possible to internally modify the HF2A/HF2AV to use the transfer lever to engage the diff lock, in the same way there are variants of the HF1A that use motor or lever shift to select between H2/H4. A modified HF2A should be able to select between H4 unlocked, H4 locked, neutral, and L4 locked in the same manner. No L4 unlocked setting, but I couldn't see myself ever wanting that anyway. I don't know if anyone has ever attempted this or looked into it.
 
You guys ever come up with any bright ideas around this?
I’ve been tinkering with a manual CDL idea a bit more lately. Nothing groundbreaking yet haha. I too am tired of wildly intermittent CDL issues, especially on a PT converted 80. Although my recent intermittent issue seems to be wiring related.
 

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