Builds Ikarus' LX470 Offroad Build and BS
- Thread starter ikarus
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- arb bumper lx470 offroad overland
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- Thread starter
- #622
Yeah that's not a bad idea either. One more year after that and I could get a coil spring 79 pickup truck. Unfortunately the double cabs won't be available til 2037.. haha
I think the Gladiators are pretty sick. I hope sales do well enough that Toyota would consider something similar, but it seems like they're heading in other directions in the US.
As always beautiful shots Max!Couple shots from a recent desert trip - loving these tires
On another topic, what does everyone think about recent cruiser prices? I've been watching the classifieds and I'll admit it has me wondering if I should list this for like $25K. Not sure what I'd get into next, though I just spent a couple days driving my father in law's Gladiator and I loved it.
100 series prices are getting a bit dumb but I think they are for a reason. People want good ones that aren't in maintenance debt. You just bought an E36 so you know exactly what I am talking about. In the price range of ~15-20K there isn't anything in the market as appealing as one of these. I know because I looked and looked after stuffing my 99 back in December. I looked at everything off-roady and in that price range everything sucks EXCEPT the 100 series. Jeeps in that range are stupid/terrible and absolutely mindless to look at because there are so many. As a casual/new off roader spending ~20K on a 100 seems a bit insane; but as a seller you can get your money back out of it then I would be tempted. The only thing I would suggest is to know exactly what you want to replace it with because car shopping suuucks. I just think that all in for a comfortable offroad capable machine that is not meant for Hells Revenge and the like for a price tag of $15K this is the best platform to have.
I like Jeeps, I just think it is too irritating to ever hope for a good deal on a used one which would mean buying new...and then inevitably sinking ten grand into it because 37's and a giant FOX suspension makes total sense. Have you looked at the interior of a Jeep? Basically until this model year they have been trash to the point I don't know how they even got away with making cars this way this decade. I have been absolutely ruined by the 100 series and I am all in on the TLC now to the point I am casually looking at 2013+ 200 series for my wife as our family hauler in the hopes that it will one day reach "beater" status and become the 100's replacement.
Heresy on a LC forum, but the Colorado with the Duramax is another interesting option for a camping/travel rig.
Couple shots from a recent desert trip - loving these tires
On another topic, what does everyone think about recent cruiser prices? I've been watching the classifieds and I'll admit it has me wondering if I should list this for like $25K. Not sure what I'd get into next, though I just spent a couple days driving my father in law's Gladiator and I loved it.
How many miles ya got on your rig @ikarus?
I'm in the same boat as you and @DDMSteve - thought I'd be in a 200 by now but this thing just keeps running and I spend my money elsewhere.
- Thread starter
- #626
Totally. I've thought of doing the same with a 200. But those are the two things holding me back - not quite sure what to get into next and I really like the 100 especially for long trips. Brand new Tacoma or Gladiator would be nice with a warranty and all. Quality on Jeeps is getting a little better but I know what you mean, I spent a lot of time in high school in a TJ. Old is tempting but I'm honestly a little tired of maintenance and stretching a chassis to its limit (35s on a 100). All sorts of cool options though if I feel like getting back into an older vehicle - BJ73, HDJ81, Defender, G Wagen. But the convenience of a brand new vehicle is tempting.
Yeah I've been meaning to test drive one of those. The AEV Bison looks great. Everytime I research it I end up on AEV's site and then find myself pricing out a Ram on 40s with a flatbed. ha
Just rolled over to 194K. Yeah I get that. It really is running well, after replacing a ton of parts. Maybe I'll just hang onto it and SAS it. 200s are cool but just seem a little big to me
- Thread starter
- #627
Question for everyone. I think the answer is simple but just wanted to get some extra opinions -
When climbing steep hills, especially with loose rocks/dirt, the back end gets real bouncy, bad enough that I feel like I'm losing traction. I think the problem is rear shocks that are too soft - thoughts?
I have Icon stage 1 - which I've read is similar to the #4 setting on the adjustable stage 3 Icons (#1-10, with 10 being the stiffest.)
When climbing steep hills, especially with loose rocks/dirt, the back end gets real bouncy, bad enough that I feel like I'm losing traction. I think the problem is rear shocks that are too soft - thoughts?
I have Icon stage 1 - which I've read is similar to the #4 setting on the adjustable stage 3 Icons (#1-10, with 10 being the stiffest.)
*Note that this is me coming at this from the point of my Radio Controlled car experience*. Shocks work with bound and rebound and it is all a balance that works together. You have your dampers that control the bound and rebound, then the springs work in connection with that. If you are over sprung and under-damped that will mean you get a really quick bounce back (rebound). If you are too heavily damped and sprung then the shock is never getting fully compressed to take advantage of the travel offered. This is where some things like progressive rate springs are nice because you have a bit of travel before the spring increases tension to keep things from bottoming out. Soft suspension will generate traction. Perhaps your springs are too stiff for your load capacity OR your damping is too heavy and cannot bound/travel quick enough. Some shocks have variable valve dampening where it can bound quickly but valving makes the rebound slower.
In most cases I would think it would depend on what kind of bouncing you are experiencing - but the answer is it could be too soft, or it could be too stiff if that makes any sense at all. My gut says too stiff of a spring is causing your rebound to happen too quickly.
In most cases I would think it would depend on what kind of bouncing you are experiencing - but the answer is it could be too soft, or it could be too stiff if that makes any sense at all. My gut says too stiff of a spring is causing your rebound to happen too quickly.
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- #629
Good to know, thanks for the advice. I'll have to shoot a video next time to share here.
- Thread starter
- #630
Headed down to Moab for a few days. Tried to pack a lot lighter and ditched the fuel/water cans and carrier, hilift, and one rear seat. As I mentioned earlier I felt like the rear end was too bouncy going up big climbs. I think I just had too much weight hanging out over the rear with 145 lbs of liquid and metal. Plus a-trac was messing me up so I locked the rear on sandy/loose ascents and it drove much smoother.
I tried out a new system for packing camping supplies. Trying to go with a more minimal setup - there's nothing I hate worse than a trunk full of loose junk
Picked up a few Hardigg cases for cheap from a prepper who was selling them on Craigslist. Each weighs 20-30 lbs. Super sturdy
Tent/sleeping bag etc. go in the large one. Tools, jack, impact gun, jumper cables, recovery gear, tire repair kit go in smaller one on bottom, to stay strapped in for the duration of the trip, as well as the Yeti. Last small case carries miscellaneous stuff like camp chair, hammock, soap etc. Strapped them all down with ratchet straps and didn't have any movement while bouncing around on Moab trails. Plus in theory I shouldn't die from a cooler to the head in case of an accident.
Removed the rear seat for extra room and some weight reduction (that thing's hefty.)
Food/stove in yellow duffel, and clothes, jackets, pillow etc. in black duffel.
That's it. I always wanted drawers until recently I started thinking about weight. These are rough numbers but I figure:
LX470 - 5400 lbs / GVWR - 6856 lbs
+ 150 lbs sliders
+ 150 lbs front bumper/winch
+ 230 lbs rear bumper
+ 50 (over stock) lbs spare tire
+ 70 lbs camping cases
+ 120 lbs gear
+ 80 lbs loaded cooler
+ 160-200 lbs passengers (x?)
- 100 lbs rear seat
That brings me to around 6200 lbs (probably under estimating) unloaded and with just two passengers, I'm getting very close to GVWR.
Plus it's just more enjoyable to take a lighter truck offroad. I'm going to roll with this setup for a while since it worked well on this trip. I would like a rooftop tent as well but I'm just not sure how i feel about an extra 200 lbs up top for a rack and tent - unless maybe I get that carbon fiber Maggiolina and load bars to keep it more around 120 lbs total... and I could ditch the entire camping box, which would save about 45 lbs.
Anyway I'll keep subtracting from this setup until I get the bare minimum but I'm liking this for now.
Thanks for sharing this.
Headed down to Moab for a few days. Tried to pack a lot lighter and ditched the fuel/water cans and carrier, hilift, and one rear seat. As I mentioned earlier I felt like the rear end was too bouncy going up big climbs. I think I just had too much weight hanging out over the rear with 145 lbs of liquid and metal. Plus a-trac was messing me up so I locked the rear on sandy/loose ascents and it drove much smoother.
I tried out a new system for packing camping supplies. Trying to go with a more minimal setup - there's nothing I hate worse than a trunk full of loose junk
Picked up a few Hardigg cases for cheap from a prepper who was selling them on Craigslist. Each weighs 20-30 lbs. Super sturdy
Tent/sleeping bag etc. go in the large one. Tools, jack, impact gun, jumper cables, recovery gear, tire repair kit go in smaller one on bottom, to stay strapped in for the duration of the trip, as well as the Yeti. Last small case carries miscellaneous stuff like camp chair, hammock, soap etc. Strapped them all down with ratchet straps and didn't have any movement while bouncing around on Moab trails. Plus in theory I shouldn't die from a cooler to the head in case of an accident.
Removed the rear seat for extra room and some weight reduction (that thing's hefty.)
Food/stove in yellow duffel, and clothes, jackets, pillow etc. in black duffel.
That's it. I always wanted drawers until recently I started thinking about weight. These are rough numbers but I figure:
LX470 - 5400 lbs / GVWR - 6856 lbs
+ 150 lbs sliders
+ 150 lbs front bumper/winch
+ 230 lbs rear bumper
+ 50 (over stock) lbs spare tire
+ 70 lbs camping cases
+ 120 lbs gear
+ 80 lbs loaded cooler
+ 160-200 lbs passengers (x?)
- 100 lbs rear seat
That brings me to around 6200 lbs (probably under estimating) unloaded and with just two passengers, I'm getting very close to GVWR.
Plus it's just more enjoyable to take a lighter truck offroad. I'm going to roll with this setup for a while since it worked well on this trip. I would like a rooftop tent as well but I'm just not sure how i feel about an extra 200 lbs up top for a rack and tent - unless maybe I get that carbon fiber Maggiolina and load bars to keep it more around 120 lbs total... and I could ditch the entire camping box, which would save about 45 lbs.
Anyway I'll keep subtracting from this setup until I get the bare minimum but I'm liking this for now.
I actually find these kind of post much more useful and enjoyable to read (not that I mind the occasional “what tire size fits” post).
As a family of 6 in the 100 we’ve gotten pretty bare necessities when it comes to packing although my more recent trips have been to Boston, Philly, and Manhattan - packing smart is still the name of the game.
Later this summer we’ll be heading up to PEI / Nova Scotia and back for a little over 2 weeks with a few nights of ground camping. I picked up a Yeti that fits in the Slee gas carrier but it’s just way too small for a crew this size. I really like the robust cases you picked up. I’ve been holding off on a roof rack because of not needing one mostly, but also parking garages (...and hype) - How do you think the cases would do on the roof?
Thought about an aluminum hitch carrier but with the swingouts as well as the definite dragging on almost any backroad / trail it doesn’t make sense. At this point I’d just give up and get a trailer.
Got anymore pics of Moab?
And to keep the spirit of “what tire size fits” alive - how did the 315s do?
Keep living the dream
Headed down to Moab for a few days. Tried to pack a lot lighter and ditched the fuel/water cans and carrier, hilift, and one rear seat. As I mentioned earlier I felt like the rear end was too bouncy going up big climbs. I think I just had too much weight hanging out over the rear with 145 lbs of liquid and metal. Plus a-trac was messing me up so I locked the rear on sandy/loose ascents and it drove much smoother.
I tried out a new system for packing camping supplies. Trying to go with a more minimal setup - there's nothing I hate worse than a trunk full of loose junk
Picked up a few Hardigg cases for cheap from a prepper who was selling them on Craigslist. Each weighs 20-30 lbs. Super sturdy
Tent/sleeping bag etc. go in the large one. Tools, jack, impact gun, jumper cables, recovery gear, tire repair kit go in smaller one on bottom, to stay strapped in for the duration of the trip, as well as the Yeti. Last small case carries miscellaneous stuff like camp chair, hammock, soap etc. Strapped them all down with ratchet straps and didn't have any movement while bouncing around on Moab trails. Plus in theory I shouldn't die from a cooler to the head in case of an accident.
Removed the rear seat for extra room and some weight reduction (that thing's hefty.)
Food/stove in yellow duffel, and clothes, jackets, pillow etc. in black duffel.
That's it. I always wanted drawers until recently I started thinking about weight. These are rough numbers but I figure:
LX470 - 5400 lbs / GVWR - 6856 lbs
+ 150 lbs sliders
+ 150 lbs front bumper/winch
+ 230 lbs rear bumper
+ 50 (over stock) lbs spare tire
+ 70 lbs camping cases
+ 120 lbs gear
+ 80 lbs loaded cooler
+ 160-200 lbs passengers (x?)
- 100 lbs rear seat
That brings me to around 6200 lbs (probably under estimating) unloaded and with just two passengers, I'm getting very close to GVWR.
Plus it's just more enjoyable to take a lighter truck offroad. I'm going to roll with this setup for a while since it worked well on this trip. I would like a rooftop tent as well but I'm just not sure how i feel about an extra 200 lbs up top for a rack and tent - unless maybe I get that carbon fiber Maggiolina and load bars to keep it more around 120 lbs total... and I could ditch the entire camping box, which would save about 45 lbs.
Anyway I'll keep subtracting from this setup until I get the bare minimum but I'm liking this for now.
Have you ever stopped and weighed your truck at a truck stop weight station? It would be interesting to know the actual weight. I have been meaning to do this with my truck for a while now.
The one just outside of Price will play ball if there aren't any commercial trucks waiting.
- Thread starter
- #635
I think they would do great on the roof. They're also cool cause they come in all sorts of different sizes. You can't really buy them new since they're just a mil contract deal but I have seen a few on Amazon. Tons on eBay as well. They have footlocker sizes, short, long and skinny, or big wide square, etc. You could even measure available space inside the cabin and find the perfect combination of cases to strap down inside and stack to the ceiling.
Alu-Box is the same way, they have like 20 different sizes but they are $$$
315s are great. Probably should have stuck to 285s for pure functionality cause these definitely rub a little and I've crunched my fenders when fully compressed so I had to roll them. But overall awesome and they look great, can't forget that haha
Same, never have. I'm worried it's gonna be 7K lbs haha
I'll have to try that one. I actually saw a semi get pulled over for not stopping there on my way down to Moab
315/70r17. I would stick to 285/75r17 unless you really want the extra size. the 285 is just about as tall and functionally very similar to 315 but you won't rub. I've also crunched my fenders quite a bit and had to roll them pretty aggressively to stop contact when compressed.
Allegedly, it could be as high as 7540 lbs
neilsen100
GOLD Star
I wasn't quite that high but certainly over 7K. Weighted at the Heber station last summer.
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- #638
haha that's a big oof from me
Looks like you've got a RTT and fridge and stuff?
neilsen100
GOLD Star
That's correct. And a bike rack, bike, baby gear (so much there), jerry cans. Truck still drove great with AHC but I do have non AHC springs in the back.
I think the reality is our rigs are just plain heavy and I really don't think the steering rack and front diff (especially with atrac engaged) were engineered to handle heavy 35's over technical terrain very often. They have a hard time pulling themselves up and over ledges as a result (a front locker and tcase gears help), but we're bumping them up ledges on trails like golden spike, nailing our rear lower control arms, belly cross member, and crossing our fingers the front diff holds. Break over/rocker clearance isn't that great either due to limitations in the front end design/overall length of the vehicle. If we could get another 1.5-2" more of suspension lift and 37's I think we'd be golden. Could always do a comp cut on the rocker to raise the sliders up another 2" in addition, but now we're getting crazy (or are we? Rigs are getting to be about 20 years old anyway). If spending the money to get 2" more suspension lift and possibly 37's, I think i'd rather go the route of a sas (as opposed to a custom long travel), but we're still dealing with hauling around a pig and trying to get it up and over things. The gladiator and jlur have a much easier time in this regard (lighter), not to mention, they already have the better t case gears, front and rear lockers and a straight axle, which is what makes them so attractive of course. Spending over 40k on a rig to take offroad makes me anxious though, and I don't like having vehicle payments. Bottom line, the 100 wasn't engineered to be a recreational offroader, which is what a lot of us do in the US (especially rocky mtn states). I am with you though, i'm going through the same process. There's the trail tailor sas upcoming, but it's going to be pricey (15-18k) to do it right and make all the work worth it, imo. Is it worth putting that amount of money into a 20 year old vehicle at over 200k miles? Isn't the goal to travel and enjoy being out on the trail, not worrying or constantly maintaining an older vehicle? The sas amount, plus the sale of the 100, doesn't make the Jeep look so unreasonable. Granted, we still have to lift them and put 37's on (unless we wait a couple years and get a pre-owned or used one already lifted/on 37's), but you have to do tires on any vehicle at some point, and lifts are pretty reasonable from what I've seen. Staying with mostly stock steel bumpers and skid plates, and it should stay pretty light. Jeep also increased the jlur's (I know not gladiator, but interesting) payload capacity to 1350lbs for the 2020 model year. Compare that to an 03+ 100 series at 1470lbs. Trails like the rubicon and the dusy aren't feasible in a 100 over the long haul (unless sas happens), and those are on my bucket list. Then there's the 80 series debate. 80's are still big and heavy, slow, poor brake performance, and really old and clapped out now, unless you want to spend Jeep territory money, and it may still not be as capable. Land Cruisers are unique though, comfortable, have great cargo and payload capacity, and are generally reliable as long as you have the funds for upkeep. That's why we have them. What do you do?
