Thats because no one wanted black. It doesn't make them special.
I had black '97 for 6 months and sold it in car park. I never got to the point of hating it but sure was close.
If I was to start all over again, I would... (22 Viewers)
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I had black '97 for 6 months and sold it in car park. I never got to the point of hating it but sure was close.
If I could get my hands on a white or Moon Grey, I'd love it!Thats because no one wanted black. It doesn't make them special.
Would have added the Radflow shocks, HD Swaybar and Marlin steering components much sooner. One more month before I'm reunited with the LX... Love that slow gas guzzling beast.... Hope to see yall at the Round Up.. Somebody asked for pics.... Sway bar disconnects... that helps.
Sounds like a similar story to my truck hahaThats because no one wanted black. It doesn't make them special.
Since my last post on this thread 3 years ago, I've added WK sliders, front ARB bumper, cylinder head job with new OE engine harness, upgraded to 285 BFG KO2s, 7 pin mod and under driven Tcase gears. Just drove it back to NM from our place in Vegas and still gets 15 to 17 mpg. I've been doing upgrades slowly along with repairs when needed. I'm still impressed with the capability of this truck. It's still more capable than the driver!
That is a really clean, tasteful rig. Well done. The white is so good, and your bumper and roof rack look proper. What roof rack is that BTW? It looks very clean, unlike my Ironman rack which looks like a travesty.
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- #307
Your getting 15 to 17 with the roof rack?
Yes. I dont drive much over 70.
It's a Frontrunner Half rack.
I assume that’s with the speedo/odo adjustment for tires/etc? Or maybe you’re pretty close anyway with 33s and the tcase gears? Pretty good numbers there, gives me hope for our road trip to Denali next year.
The speedo is spot on now. I did change the speedo gear to match the Tcase gears and tire size. I don't carry a lot of weight. I also did the cylinder head so everything associated with that job was replaced including fuel injectors, vacuum hoses etc. Mileage varies with elevation, wind etc but typically I'm around 15 to 16. I did get 17 on one tank with a nice tailwind!
Thats why I call them Heeps !... but to each their own ! If somebody likes Heeps then thats great ! I prefer Yotas... now on my 9th 4x4 a 80 series, and 10th 4x4 GX460 ... it took me along time to realize that yotas are best at least to me and alot of other folks.... As much as I don't wheel too much anymore in retirement ... I won't be selling the 80 and the GX 460 although capable, is our cruiser for going to dinner and long trips with.... which is fine by me . Once you get old enough and beat up enough , bouncing and what ever on trails loses it's luster !
but its all good... !
lumbee1
Native American
Bringing this thread back
How it started in Sept 2012
September 2024
I research everything I buy and usually try to purchase the best for the money. I learned the hard way to only buy OEM parts for maintenance unless it's simply not available.
I think everyone goes through that phase of purchasing something that seemed like a good deal at the time only to remove, replace, or toss it later.
No regrets on these purchases:
Many of my upgrades have been DIY projects that while they required a lot of time, patience, and engineering, have been a fantastic upgrades.
Parts that were removed:
How it started in Sept 2012
September 2024
I research everything I buy and usually try to purchase the best for the money. I learned the hard way to only buy OEM parts for maintenance unless it's simply not available.
I think everyone goes through that phase of purchasing something that seemed like a good deal at the time only to remove, replace, or toss it later.
- Springs - I purchased light duty springs only to have to replace them later with heavy duty springs to match the weight of the Cruiser.
- Shocks - Fox shocks were better than what I started with but not what I needed. The Dobinson IMS are perfect and do an excellent job of suspension control.
- Hybrid AT/MT tires - The ST Maxx is great on-road but only ok offroad and horrific in mud. I'm shopping for a true MT now.
- Awning - The $300 270* Chinese awning was junk from day one and I eventually gave it away.
- Lseat leather - It lasted 4 years and started breaking down.
- Rockauto wiper motor - Dead within a year and replaced with a used 28 year old OEM motor.
No regrets on these purchases:
- Supercharger - Very expensive and very much worth it.
- 4.88 axle regear - Subtle change but necessary for larger tires.
- ARB bumper - Not very strong, but iconic and versatile.
- 4x4Labs rear bumper - Excellent clearance and strong.
- ICECO fridge with slide.
- Weathertech mats.
- @Lutz Auto speedo adjustment module.
- @anothernord phone mount.
- @Outsane shakey mirror fix.
- PIAA silicone wiper blades. 11 years old.
Many of my upgrades have been DIY projects that while they required a lot of time, patience, and engineering, have been a fantastic upgrades.
- Rock sliders.
- Big power to passenger rear quarter panel for fridge, USB, Anderson plugs, and air compressor.
- Single drawer system.
- Spoiler mounted cheap lightbar.
- Underhood lighting with waterproof switch.
- Rock lights on remote controlled relay.
- OEM dome light mounted on hatch door.
- Hammock ring in the 3rd row seatbelt mounts.
Parts that were removed:
- EGR
- ABS
- LSPV
Regret purchasing the overweight, weak, approached angle eliminator...also known as the ARB bumper.
smritte
SILVER Star
@lumbee1
Did you bedliner your fenders?
If so, hows it holding up? I jumped on the bedliner bandwagon a long time ago. I did my M-100 in Raptor. My cruiser fenders in Monsta Liner, then my sliders in Monsta.
I followed the instructions and spoke with both companies before hand.
Both brands chip horribly and the Monsta is peeling the top layer on the cruiser after 5 years.
Totally regret using both.
Did you bedliner your fenders?
If so, hows it holding up? I jumped on the bedliner bandwagon a long time ago. I did my M-100 in Raptor. My cruiser fenders in Monsta Liner, then my sliders in Monsta.
I followed the instructions and spoke with both companies before hand.
Both brands chip horribly and the Monsta is peeling the top layer on the cruiser after 5 years.
Totally regret using both.
i used to think that way, but after 10 yrs and plenty of wheeling, the ARB is great, the approached angle is fine, not ideal, but pros > cons at this stage.
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lumbee1
Native American
My Cruiser is flareless and the previous owner raptor lined it at least 13 years ago. It has held up incredibly well over the years and still retains 90% of the original black color.
No regret for the last 10 yrs owning the 3F-E, the rig exceeded most expectation i had and yes, glad i went with the 3F-E over 1FZ-FE engine and this engine has been a joy to drive and definitely a tank compared to the 4.5L in many ways.
What would I do over??
Park the vehicle out of the sun, in a closed garage or at a minimum under a carport (closed garage if live near salt water/ocean)
For long term storage definitely in a dark garage with no (or covered) windows
Never drive the vehicle in a (US) state/location that salts/chemically treats it's roads for ice during the winter but
if you must, wash the vehicle off frequently and (before the first winter) have it professionally rust proofed (not just undercoating)
Dash protector to keep the sun/heat off the dash/crash pad and steering wheel (leather)
Use a windshield Sun/UV shield when parked, covering all windows/glass would be best
Cover the original windshield washer (plastic) bottle with something opaque to prevent cracking from UV damage
Cover the headlamp leveling bubble thingies with something opaque to prevent cracking/deterioration from UV damage
Cover the accelerator cable with something like sections of slit fuel hose or Marine grade heat shrink tubing to protect the original thin rubber coating from deteriorating
Replace the Heat Control Valve, PHH (and the 98 other pm's) sooner
Overall better preventive maintanance to protect from UV damage (fabric/carpet fading, leather and plastic damage, etc)
Rust proof the vehicle from day one, either pay someone to do it right or (yourself) spray 3M Cavity Wax into EVERY nook, cranny, blind cavity, boxed section, cross member, frame sections, rocker panel, radiator support sections, and dog legs. Also into all door, tailgate, hatch, hood, and door pillar cavities, bottom of doors under the weather stripping, under the weather stripping (remove first) for the rear body opening (hatch/liftgate), engine bay, etc, etc, etc, etc And that's even if living in a Southern US State; IME vehicles can rust almost anywhere, it just happens much faster/worse in a salted road state
Wax/polish/seal the vehicle exterior more often including the alloy wheels
Clean and treat the leather interior more often
Never park the vehicle with Ethanol fuel in the tank for more than a few weeks without adding Stabil treatment and filling the tank with pure gasoline
Learn how to work on your vehicle as soon as you buy it so you don't have to take it to anybody else
And never ever never let a young male driver get behind the wheel by themselves because they will try to destroy it (buy them a Heep/Jeep instead)
My two cents
Park the vehicle out of the sun, in a closed garage or at a minimum under a carport (closed garage if live near salt water/ocean)
For long term storage definitely in a dark garage with no (or covered) windows
Never drive the vehicle in a (US) state/location that salts/chemically treats it's roads for ice during the winter but
if you must, wash the vehicle off frequently and (before the first winter) have it professionally rust proofed (not just undercoating)
Dash protector to keep the sun/heat off the dash/crash pad and steering wheel (leather)
Use a windshield Sun/UV shield when parked, covering all windows/glass would be best
Cover the original windshield washer (plastic) bottle with something opaque to prevent cracking from UV damage
Cover the headlamp leveling bubble thingies with something opaque to prevent cracking/deterioration from UV damage
Cover the accelerator cable with something like sections of slit fuel hose or Marine grade heat shrink tubing to protect the original thin rubber coating from deteriorating
Replace the Heat Control Valve, PHH (and the 98 other pm's) sooner
Overall better preventive maintanance to protect from UV damage (fabric/carpet fading, leather and plastic damage, etc)
Rust proof the vehicle from day one, either pay someone to do it right or (yourself) spray 3M Cavity Wax into EVERY nook, cranny, blind cavity, boxed section, cross member, frame sections, rocker panel, radiator support sections, and dog legs. Also into all door, tailgate, hatch, hood, and door pillar cavities, bottom of doors under the weather stripping, under the weather stripping (remove first) for the rear body opening (hatch/liftgate), engine bay, etc, etc, etc, etc And that's even if living in a Southern US State; IME vehicles can rust almost anywhere, it just happens much faster/worse in a salted road state
Wax/polish/seal the vehicle exterior more often including the alloy wheels
Clean and treat the leather interior more often
Never park the vehicle with Ethanol fuel in the tank for more than a few weeks without adding Stabil treatment and filling the tank with pure gasoline
Learn how to work on your vehicle as soon as you buy it so you don't have to take it to anybody else
And never ever never let a young male driver get behind the wheel by themselves because they will try to destroy it (buy them a Heep/Jeep instead)
My two cents
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The only regret I have is not buying a second car sooner. Maintenance and projects were no longer driven by what could be done in a weekend. I no longer had to guess on what parts I would need. I could take two weeks to do a front end axle seal, clean and paint everything. Working on the cruiser became fun when I stopped racing a clock.
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