GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
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That's what I was thinking, but had assumed I just hadn't had enough coffee yet and must have been missing something.
Ideas for improving the 2LTE (2 Viewers)
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That's what I was thinking, but had assumed I just hadn't had enough coffee yet and must have been missing something.
I don't have too much to add on this except that the pictures show quite a bit of body lift. Factor that into any plans you are making.
Here are some pics from a LHD set-up. Just to give you some idea options / ideas for and A2A / FMIC.
It will definitely clear the A/C compressor (not depicted in these fotos).
It will definitely clear the A/C compressor (not depicted in these fotos).
I didn’t notice the body lift. That might be necessary for clearance. I don’t see any pictures with the bumper back on but from looking at it the outside it must need to be moved outward. Not sure how that would look.
I’ll need to pull the bumper and try to piece it together with some cheap Tubing and cardboard.
I’ll need to pull the bumper and try to piece it together with some cheap Tubing and cardboard.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
I think the lack of bumper and body lift are making that look more doable than it is. My truck has a big Aussie style bumper and that’s the only reason my w2a radiator fit in front of the ac. The Hilux has a lot less room behind the grill than a LJ too.
I think you can pull it off but you’ll need a small core and a bumper that works with it
I think you can pull it off but you’ll need a small core and a bumper that works with it
Wow, the picture looking down at the air to w2a intercooler highlights the clearance problem. A narrow intercooler itself could fit with some extreme bending of the bumper valance but I don't think I could clear the power steering components on the RHD driver's side without a body lift. Looks like I would be drilling the body right into them. I could have wasted a lot of time trying to make the impossible happen there.
I already have the snorkel on the passenger side so didn't want to try to rearrange things on the turbo side. The second battery on the intake side isn't needed. The extra tray and bracket are removed. I have a decent amount of space and possibly decent airflow if I relocate the radiator overflow somewhere else. I'm thinking a could fit a blocky intercooler and puller fan into that space. The one below is from a Renault 5. Toyota MR2 looks about the same size but with an inlet and outlet on opposite sides.
I already have the snorkel on the passenger side so didn't want to try to rearrange things on the turbo side. The second battery on the intake side isn't needed. The extra tray and bracket are removed. I have a decent amount of space and possibly decent airflow if I relocate the radiator overflow somewhere else. I'm thinking a could fit a blocky intercooler and puller fan into that space. The one below is from a Renault 5. Toyota MR2 looks about the same size but with an inlet and outlet on opposite sides.
Looks like the old toyotasurf.asn.au forum has shut down, so i wanted to contribute with some of my computer skills as there is still a trove of information that can be saved. The forum heavily focused on the 2LTE surfs along with the techsite so i thought i would post it here.
First step you should follow with any dead links is use the wayback machine Internet Archive: Wayback Machine, it's been hit or miss for the few topic's i've seen,
Second, I had a weird urge a few months back to backup as much of the website as i could, so i did. I don't have time to actually rebuild the website, however i have most if not all of the techsite writeups, PDFs, and every single forum thread (26,000 of them) that was ever posted. Once i can figure out how to properly upload this and make it accessible to everyone, i will make a new thread on one of the diesel subforums so everyone can benefit from my whim on backing stuff up. If there is a specific page anyone needs then shoot me a PM. I will try to get this running in the next couple weeks.
First step you should follow with any dead links is use the wayback machine Internet Archive: Wayback Machine, it's been hit or miss for the few topic's i've seen,
Second, I had a weird urge a few months back to backup as much of the website as i could, so i did. I don't have time to actually rebuild the website, however i have most if not all of the techsite writeups, PDFs, and every single forum thread (26,000 of them) that was ever posted. Once i can figure out how to properly upload this and make it accessible to everyone, i will make a new thread on one of the diesel subforums so everyone can benefit from my whim on backing stuff up. If there is a specific page anyone needs then shoot me a PM. I will try to get this running in the next couple weeks.
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Here is my attempt at an A2A with A/C and no body lift. I went with an aftermarket Toyota MR2 intercooler, fan, and shroud. The picture shared above was from a Renault but they were expensive and tube & fin design vs the bar & plate that came with the MR2.
Installation required ditching the factory airbox for a K&N Apollo. It would have fit with a 1-inch body lift or maybe smaller intake tubing.
I'm still in need of a permanent solution for the radiator coolant overflow tank. Probably switch to a square tank.
I haven't had a chance to road test due to salt and snow.
Installation required ditching the factory airbox for a K&N Apollo. It would have fit with a 1-inch body lift or maybe smaller intake tubing.
I'm still in need of a permanent solution for the radiator coolant overflow tank. Probably switch to a square tank.
I haven't had a chance to road test due to salt and snow.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
That looks really clean, nice job! Interested to hear how that performs, Toyota ducted air from behind that headlight for the “cold air intake” style air box in Australia so it must be half decent spot
It seems decent. I think it can be improved by drilling more holes underneath (There is a small one where the coolant overflow sat) also into the wheel well, and the grill has some plastic blocking airflow to the edges that could be trimmed. I Hope it would avoid heat soak from the radiator and engine vs the top mount.
I took it for a ride today on the highway. The egt’s seem to be down about 100 degrees F. It cruised the highway at about 500f where normally over 600. Then up a steep long grade floored at 800 where it would have been 900+. Hitting 1,000 was no problem pre-snorkel with the stock exhaust. I have a 2.5 with no muffler. Those are post turbo numbers. It was 35 degrees today so that might have really helped the intercooler. Seemed to be boosting higher than before.
I have the fan set at a 140 degrees at the intake right after the turbo (pre intercooler). After the steep grade I pulled over and popped the hood and it wasn’t running. The steel intake hot but not to touch or hold onto. Maybe I need a lower fan or could it be the intake temps reduce drastically fast when not on boost. Not sure of the best way to test that. Maybe submerging the probe in hot water?
So my headgasket rang me up and said **** 2021, and decided to blow up on a new years wheeling trip. Was in the middle of a big hill climb, suddenly smelt coolant, and then noticed the temp gauge was extremely high. So i popped the hood and steam/coolant were pouring out of the reservoir and the rad cap. I let it idle for a bit, turned it off, and it was still steaming. So i let it cool down for maybe 10minutes, idled down the mountain to get service, and called the tow truck. Coolant is a milky red color.
I'm unsure if the head is cracked or not. (3L head). Gonna open it up tomorrow and see what i find. Where have you guys found good quality head gaskets? There is a local supplier near me (https://rockymountainimports.net), but unsure of the quality.
Any other things i should look out for? Or things i should replace? Any words of advice for my first time delving this deep into an engine? Timing belt and water pump were done about 45xxx ago, and engine compression was around 340 a couple months ago, so not terrible.
More information ill post if you guys can gleam anything out of it. 2 days ago i opened up the intake hoses and throttle body and cleaned everything out, and used Red HTV gasket maker to re-seal the throttle body (And waited 20 hours to cure). I was confident nothing fell into the intake. Would any of this have contributed to my overheating if something did fall through? Also, i have a (cheap) water temp gauge spliced into my lower rad hose, and i've never seen it go over 70c while driving. It might be because it's a s*** gauge sending the wrong temp, but since my (upgraded) thermostat opens up at 82C i feel like it should be reading higher.
Happy 2021 fellow 2lte owners!
I'm unsure if the head is cracked or not. (3L head). Gonna open it up tomorrow and see what i find. Where have you guys found good quality head gaskets? There is a local supplier near me (https://rockymountainimports.net), but unsure of the quality.
Any other things i should look out for? Or things i should replace? Any words of advice for my first time delving this deep into an engine? Timing belt and water pump were done about 45xxx ago, and engine compression was around 340 a couple months ago, so not terrible.
More information ill post if you guys can gleam anything out of it. 2 days ago i opened up the intake hoses and throttle body and cleaned everything out, and used Red HTV gasket maker to re-seal the throttle body (And waited 20 hours to cure). I was confident nothing fell into the intake. Would any of this have contributed to my overheating if something did fall through? Also, i have a (cheap) water temp gauge spliced into my lower rad hose, and i've never seen it go over 70c while driving. It might be because it's a s*** gauge sending the wrong temp, but since my (upgraded) thermostat opens up at 82C i feel like it should be reading higher.
Happy 2021 fellow 2lte owners!
@Jemjem787 , Sorry to hear you are bringing in the new year on a sour note. I’ve had good experiences with Rocket Mountain Imports.
Only thing I can add is 70 degrees C is definitely a bad reading for that thermostat. It should be reading between 80 - 86 degrees unless you are in neutral going downhill or climbing uphill it could go up to 95 in the summer on a steep climb.
Otherwise, there are a couple of size head gaskets with regard to thickness. Make sure you get the right one.
Hope you get it resolved.
Cheers.
Only thing I can add is 70 degrees C is definitely a bad reading for that thermostat. It should be reading between 80 - 86 degrees unless you are in neutral going downhill or climbing uphill it could go up to 95 in the summer on a steep climb.
Otherwise, there are a couple of size head gaskets with regard to thickness. Make sure you get the right one.
Hope you get it resolved.
Cheers.
Thanks for the info. I'm going to assume that my aftermarket gauge is crap then. Ill call up Rocky Mountain next week and see if they can do anything for me.
What strikes me odd is that the head originally cracked at 177xxx and was rebuilt, and now im at 219xxx. Something must of seriously failed in my cooling system for my head/gasket to last so shortly. It was like 2C outside so not warm at all. And i've tackled hill climbs like this before with an eye on the temp gauge with no issues at all. Or maybe my gauge is actually right, and something is wrong with my new 82c thermostat not opening or my radiator is clogged.
Jemjem787, Yeah... it is really hard to say. Definitely, that head should have lasted more than 35K if it was installed properly. Again, sorry to hear about that. toyotapartsdeal.com sells that head for under $900 USD last I saw. I hope you get it sorted and back to wheeling soon. I would definitely buy a better EGT and Water Temp gauge so you can head this problem off in the future. And with you driving in colder temps up there, I would not have expected this at this time of the year. That really sucks. That said, Radiator temps are pretty stable even when it goes below zero C. I can't see it going much below 80 C above 2000 RPM in normal driving conditions. In neutral coasting downhill water temp may drop down to 75 C in my experience. EGT may drop down to 100 C coasting on an extended downhill. But that is about is about cool as it gets.
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Started investigating some things, i guess when i was cleaning out my engine bay the thermostat wire got budged prior to this trip, so it was unplugged. The coolant doesn't look like i'd envision a blown gasket looking like, the oil dipstick looks clean, and the rad cap looks somewhat deformed, the edges that secure it are bent on the corners and the cover around the bottom of the springs looks punched out.
Filled it up with water this morning and idled it for around 20 minutes, bubbles came out of the rad cap but no smoke, after my (usual) smokey startup literally nothing else came out of the exhaust. I had my heater on full blast on the cab, and the temperature gauge wasn't moving up at all from its standard off position.
EDIT: Filled up a big funnel and put it over the rad cap hole. Filled it up with tap water and ran it and it eventually got up to my "normal" temp range on my dash. I could tell when the thermostat opened too because suddenly some huge air bubbles came out of the funnel with the red coolant mixing in with my tap water. Dash is now blowing hot air, and im not seeing any weird symptons at all. Posted an updated picture of the coolant below (The one in the funnel, not in the blue bowl)
Filled it up with water this morning and idled it for around 20 minutes, bubbles came out of the rad cap but no smoke, after my (usual) smokey startup literally nothing else came out of the exhaust. I had my heater on full blast on the cab, and the temperature gauge wasn't moving up at all from its standard off position.
EDIT: Filled up a big funnel and put it over the rad cap hole. Filled it up with tap water and ran it and it eventually got up to my "normal" temp range on my dash. I could tell when the thermostat opened too because suddenly some huge air bubbles came out of the funnel with the red coolant mixing in with my tap water. Dash is now blowing hot air, and im not seeing any weird symptons at all. Posted an updated picture of the coolant below (The one in the funnel, not in the blue bowl)
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Odds of a traditional "blown" head gasket are slim with these engines. Issue is the head itself cracking. So, you don't get the traditional oil/water mix most associate with a blown head gasket. What you get is combustion gases in the coolant. Lot's of air in the coolant is generally a symptom.
The heads crack right between the valves and allow compression to push into the water jacket. In more extreme cases it is technically possible to hydro-lock the cylinders due to water draining into the block when the engine is shut down, that could lead to water in the oil. But, the traditional blowing between the oil/water passages is extremely rare with the gasket itself.
You can see the crack locations in these pictures I took of mine. So, they aren't as prone to water going down, but more combustion gas going up due the pressure difference. Sitting idle with no pressure on the coolant system they aren't as likely to leak into the head.
The heads crack right between the valves and allow compression to push into the water jacket. In more extreme cases it is technically possible to hydro-lock the cylinders due to water draining into the block when the engine is shut down, that could lead to water in the oil. But, the traditional blowing between the oil/water passages is extremely rare with the gasket itself.
You can see the crack locations in these pictures I took of mine. So, they aren't as prone to water going down, but more combustion gas going up due the pressure difference. Sitting idle with no pressure on the coolant system they aren't as likely to leak into the head.
So based on the additional info i've given. With it idling with 0 head gasket signs whatsoever, dipstick looking fine, coolant looking fine, the head could still be cracked?
EDIT: Drove it around the neighboorhood at around 3500rpms for a while, parked and inspected and no weird signs of any sort of failure. Could everything possibly be, me unplugging that 1 cable by accident causing it to overheat and i caught it just in time? I really don't know what's going on, are there any other tell tale signs of a head/gasket failure without opening up the block?
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Well, it's possible. They sometimes don't suffer from catastrophic failure. It just progressively gets worse.
Honestly, if it were mine and it wasn't running hot, or bubbling the overflow tank when idling, I would just drive it and keep a close eye on it.
Mine gave me a good long run where I sort of knew it was cracked before it just gave up. Just weird issues. I had trouble controlling my EGTs, it would run hotter than I liked. Get up to the 95-96C range pretty easily. Couldn't get my tune dialed in exactly.
I was running Air-Water intercooler, rebuilt viscous fan,boost turned up, and fuel turned up. I just couldn't get it quite right. After the new head, all the issues cleared right up. I basically had it where it needed to be, but was fighting a cracked head. So, I know they will go a while if it's not completely gone. I drove mine about 8000 KM before it started running hot every time I tried to drive it.
Honestly, if it were mine and it wasn't running hot, or bubbling the overflow tank when idling, I would just drive it and keep a close eye on it.
Mine gave me a good long run where I sort of knew it was cracked before it just gave up. Just weird issues. I had trouble controlling my EGTs, it would run hotter than I liked. Get up to the 95-96C range pretty easily. Couldn't get my tune dialed in exactly.
I was running Air-Water intercooler, rebuilt viscous fan,boost turned up, and fuel turned up. I just couldn't get it quite right. After the new head, all the issues cleared right up. I basically had it where it needed to be, but was fighting a cracked head. So, I know they will go a while if it's not completely gone. I drove mine about 8000 KM before it started running hot every time I tried to drive it.
Do a compression test, and a leak down test before assuming all is well. That being said, I hope all is well...
Appreciate the insight, i'll have to pickup another compression tester and hope for the best.
This has urged me to look more in depth into the cooling system, i thought i could get away with it for a couple more months due to the lower winter temperatures, but im quickly nothing can stop the 2lte's doing what they do best. Might just start a build thread at this point, more so for my own sake of documenting what i do, and for others to give me input, instead of spamming this thread with every problem i have.
EDIT: From what i glean, if either the head or gasket are already gone, nothing else can really hurt me short of a tow home, and I don't plan on any road trips in the near future. So i think my current plan is to overhaul the cooling system, and keep a close eye on everything, and get some proper working gauges asap.
Have a happy new year!
This has urged me to look more in depth into the cooling system, i thought i could get away with it for a couple more months due to the lower winter temperatures, but im quickly nothing can stop the 2lte's doing what they do best. Might just start a build thread at this point, more so for my own sake of documenting what i do, and for others to give me input, instead of spamming this thread with every problem i have.
EDIT: From what i glean, if either the head or gasket are already gone, nothing else can really hurt me short of a tow home, and I don't plan on any road trips in the near future. So i think my current plan is to overhaul the cooling system, and keep a close eye on everything, and get some proper working gauges asap.
Have a happy new year!
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