Spray down the turbo when you start up with soapy water, or hook up an air compressor to the exhaust and spray it down. You'll see bubbles where air is escaping.
Ideas for improving the 2LTE (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter GTSSportCoupe
- Start date
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
- Thread starter
- #402
Is that the actual turbo you're using, or just a picture from the web? Isn't that the older pre 1989 style turbo?
I've never had a leak there, so not sure what to say. I forget what all you've done to your truck, but if this is a new turbo, then you should contact the seller right away and see if they can do something for you.
1200F at this time of year is pretty high. Definitely downshift and run higher rpm's up hills. Higher rpm means more air flowing through the motor and helping it cool. You can improve the AFR's (drop egt) by increasing boost, but not increasing fuel. You can either turn down the spill control valve (electronic pump), or use one of the little boost bleed things to trick the ECU into adding less fuel under boost.
Picture on the web, i got a new cartridge not a new turbo, so that part was re-used. There is a brand new CT20 for sale up in the okanagan that i'm considering picking up just to fix this, I've scoured the web and can't find a solution on how to fix it.
Yea it is pretty high, so once i reinstall the watercooling, properly regear to 488 (Currently 456), bigger exhaust, and fix the up pipe leaks (Which im told can increase EGT's, dont ask me how to explain i don't understand it myself), I'm hoping it'll go down to a reasonable level. I'm also running load range E tires which people are saying are too heavy for the vehicle (Chalk tested and the sweet spot is around 24PSI). Have yet to get a flat tire though.
Just installed my boost bleeder this morning actually, and it looks like it helped a bit. Gauge is reading 13PSI when its foot to the floor and my EGT's dropped a bit. Gonna do the watercooling/leak fixing today and will report back what my EGTs are at.
What do you mean when you say "up pipe"? A downpipe is from the turbo to the exhaust, the turbo mounts direct to the manifold on your engine, does it not?
Are you talking about the crossover pipe that runs from the turbo outlet to the intake manifold? That's often called a "crossover pipe" on these engines. If you have boost leaks between the turbo and intake manifold, then you won't be getting all the air into the engine that you should be, resulting in a richer AFR, and hotter EGT's.
"The up pipe is the last piece of tube that consolidates all the exhaust gas from the four manifold tubes and carries it into the turbine housing", or "The uppipe is the mechanism by which the exhaust gasses get TO the turbo." According to google. I was using the terminology incorrectly there because we don't really have one, it's just manifold>turbo with no extra piping so i apologize for the confusion, but what i was trying to say is that a leak between the exhaust manifold on the block and the turbine housing will result in higher EGT's, and since my probe location is leaking, it's kind of the same problem as an "Up Pipe Leak" when doing my research.
A pre-turbo exhaust leak will affect how quickly your turbo spools up, and potentially its ability to maintain a boost level depending on how bad the leak is.
I'm just going off what i am reading here, so please correct me if im wrong, but the "up pipe" section refers to what brings the exhaust gasses into the turbo, so the up pipe section could also be refereed to as "Pre Turbo". And just by googling "Leaky up pipes and higher EGTs" there are numerous people stating it will also increase EGT's, which is a by product of the turbo not spooling as it should.
I think we're on the same page here, I'm just using the wrong terminology lol. A friend of mine with a WRX kept repeating the "up pipe" phrase to me because he had a pretty bad leak in his once, so i was going off his sayings.
Subaru's are horizontally opposed, so heads on opposite sides of the block, but usually single turbo, so the "up-pipe" I guess would connect the 2 manifolds outputs into a central spot where it connects to the turbo.
Most Toyota turbo diesels are inline cylinder orientations, so all the exhaust ports are on the same side of the engine, and a log manifold with common collector is used, and the turbo hangs right off the manifold.
From a diagnosis/troubleshooting perspective, they are the same thing. A pre-turbo exhaust leak. It's either a gasket, or a cracked exhaust manifold, or potentially an EGR component if your engine has that.
Most Toyota turbo diesels are inline cylinder orientations, so all the exhaust ports are on the same side of the engine, and a log manifold with common collector is used, and the turbo hangs right off the manifold.
From a diagnosis/troubleshooting perspective, they are the same thing. A pre-turbo exhaust leak. It's either a gasket, or a cracked exhaust manifold, or potentially an EGR component if your engine has that.
A word of caution, gas and diesel engine tuning is the opposite of each other in a lot of ways, so while cause might be the same, the effect is different. Gas runs hotter when lean, diesels run hotter when rich.
serenity
SILVER Star
@GTSSportCoupe do mind if I revert the first post back to the original? It had some great info.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
- Thread starter
- #411
Sure, I didn't know that could be done. I had always meant to re-write it, as I'd learned a lot since the first time I wrote it. Just never got around to it. But if you're able to recover it, maybe I could just pick away at editing as I have time. Thanks!
serenity
SILVER Star
I have the power! Old post is back up now.
@GTSSportCoupe
Hello,
Question for you.
Would there be a difference in efficiency if i were to put a boost pressure sensor into the egr delete plate on the intake side as opposed to putting it in the boost sensor vacuum line.
Thank you
Hello,
Question for you.
Would there be a difference in efficiency if i were to put a boost pressure sensor into the egr delete plate on the intake side as opposed to putting it in the boost sensor vacuum line.
Thank you
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
- Thread starter
- #414
Hello,
The OEM boost sensor (for ECU) is connected to a hose barb directly above the EGR inlet in the intake manifold. Both locations should see the same air pressure levels, so should read the same. I highly recommend leaving it alone.
The best way I've found to improve efficiency of these motors, is provide a better AFR (leaner). Basically, more air for a given amount of fuel. This seems to help the fuel burn more efficiently, and has a direct impact on fuel economy. You can increase air by increasing boost (manual boost controller at the turbo). You can also increase air by using an intercooler (cooler air is denser). You can reduce fuel at the spill control valve or by replacing the fuel calibration resistor with a potentiometer, and decreasing the resistance a bit from the OEM value.
Cheers,
Nick
Hello, absolute rookie here but currently locked down in NZ and wanting to have a go at doing an EGR delete on my LJ78 2LTE. Could someone please walk me through the idiots guide of how to do this? I have found a few threads with bits a d pieces but all a little difficult to understand for someone not mechanically inclined like me! Lastly any other suggestions for 2LTE improvements I can do from home without supplies would be awesome!!!
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
See first photo (cleaned engine bay as first lockdown mission) Am I correct in thinking the EGR is in this area (2nd and 3rd photo)
nice i
Nice intercooler setup, did you do it yourself?
You are right on the money, the EGR valve is the UFO looking thing right next to the throttle cable. Just follow the the pipe on both ends of the UFO looking thing, one goes to the Exhaust side and one to the Intake that is where you will be putting the block off plates.
Nice intercooler setup, did you do it yourself?
You are right on the money, the EGR valve is the UFO looking thing right next to the throttle cable. Just follow the the pipe on both ends of the UFO looking thing, one goes to the Exhaust side and one to the Intake that is where you will be putting the block off plates.
Hey mate, thanks it’s going really well! Massive difference to this engine. Definitely could not do it myself haha I had my mechanic whip it up!
Thanks for the pointer, unfortunately I am a little mechanically challenged and was hoping someone could give me a step by step guide of how do this?
Any chance you can put up better pictures of how an where he routed in the the intercooler pipping?
Honestly you don't need to be mechanically inclined to complete the EGR delete just make sure you use plenty of PB blaster and dont over tighten anything. I was also looking for a step by step guide but couldn't find one so i just pieced it together by looking at multiple different posts in regards to it. Dont over think it, i was stressing a bit to but once i started getting into it was a piece of cake. While doing the EGR delete i realized these engines are fairly easy to work on, the hardest part is messing around with the diesel pump other than that everything is straight forward, dont be intimidated
Do you plan on keeping the Butterfly valve in the throttle body?
Thanks for the post. I have purchase a 1992 Japanese import Hiace Super Custom with the 2-LTE engine. And it overheated driving home. That was because the cab heater pipework corroded through and lost all the coolant, but it prompted me to research the engine. And that's when I found it is the runt of the litter, and very hard to find repair service manuals.
In addition to the RM520E & RM582E manuals you post I eventually found a scanned paper copy of the L, 2L, 2L-T engine repair manual that has some differences and more aimed at end users and includes a trouble shooting guide and more basic mechanical info than the service manuals provide, for example how to inspect and diagnose timing belt.
Attached here.
The download site is here: PDF ONLINE - TOYOTA L 2L 2L-T ENGINE WORKSHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL - https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-toyota-l-2l-2l-t-engine-workshop-service-repair-manual/
It is a badly built site - the screen is full of download buttons which link to shutterstock page with lots of downloadable download button images! The actual download button that works is at the bottom of the pdf preview pane and works fine. The site has a very comprehensive range of old Toyota manuals.
In addition to the RM520E & RM582E manuals you post I eventually found a scanned paper copy of the L, 2L, 2L-T engine repair manual that has some differences and more aimed at end users and includes a trouble shooting guide and more basic mechanical info than the service manuals provide, for example how to inspect and diagnose timing belt.
Attached here.
The download site is here: PDF ONLINE - TOYOTA L 2L 2L-T ENGINE WORKSHOP SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL - https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-toyota-l-2l-2l-t-engine-workshop-service-repair-manual/
It is a badly built site - the screen is full of download buttons which link to shutterstock page with lots of downloadable download button images! The actual download button that works is at the bottom of the pdf preview pane and works fine. The site has a very comprehensive range of old Toyota manuals.
