I put an end to my Charcoal Canister problems for good!

[Old Nick]

I used regular ol Toyota FIPG.

I’ve got several tubes on the shelf. Sounds like a plan.

 

[Old Nick]

Just took the 80 for a spin after completing the cc rebuild. I swear, by the seat of my pants, the truck was running so much better than before the mod. Fingers crossed that the tank pressure and hard starting (when warmed up) will be sorted out.

To those who recommended FIPG... thank you. Worked like a charm.

 

[petegangies]

anyone foresee any issue with using this black seam sealer on the can? I've just opened a tube of this to seal one fender.. so it would be good to find another use for it haha:
TEROSON® MS 9320 - https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ng/en/product/flexible-sealants/teroson_ms_93200.html
https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/TEROSON-MS-9320-en_GL.pdf

Datasheet says it's resistant to petrol and bonds well to steel and says its suitable for the engine compartment

Chemical resistance
resistant to light, PVC plasticizers and (short term)to petrol
In service temperature range, °C -40 to 90 - short exposure (up to 3 hrs), °C 130

It is a semi flexible finish though, not a rock hard finish, but it should just expand and contract a little with heat without cracking or letting go.

 

[Marvelicious]

anyone foresee any issue with using this black seam sealer on the can? I've just opened a tube of this to seal one fender.. so it would be good to find another use for it haha:
TEROSON® MS 9320 - https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ng/en/product/flexible-sealants/teroson_ms_93200.html
https://datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/TEROSON-MS-9320-en_GL.pdf

Datasheet says it's resistant to petrol and bonds well to steel and says its suitable for the engine compartment

Chemical resistance
resistant to light, PVC plasticizers and (short term)to petrol
In service temperature range, °C -40 to 90 - short exposure (up to 3 hrs), °C 130

It is a semi flexible finish though, not a rock hard finish, but it should just expand and contract a little with heat without cracking or letting go.

Black RTV is still working fine on mine. If you take it apart carefully, the slip fit of the top is doing most of the work. You're just providing something to fill the void.

Been through a couple of summers now with no more pressurized tank, no fuel smell and no signs of the top popping lose despite using sealant instead of something more rigid. I did remove and reinstall it a while back because I needed to work around it for a wiring project. It looked just like the day I rebuilt it.

 

[petegangies]

Black RTV is still working fine on mine. If you take it apart carefully, the slip fit of the top is doing most of the work. You're just providing something to fill the void.

Been through a couple of summers now with no more pressurized tank, no fuel smell and no signs of the top popping lose despite using sealant instead of something more rigid. I did remove and reinstall it a while back because I needed to work around it for a wiring project. It looked just like the day I rebuilt it.

Sweet!

Did you need to grind the lid off or just pry around it?

 

[Marvelicious]

Sweet!

Did you need to grind the lid off or just pry around it?

I used my disc sander to remove the bare minimum on the outside edge. If you look at Phil's third pic on the first post, you can see roughly what you're going for. The actual top is sort of recessed, so you take the very edge off, but the top fits down into the body a little bit.

 

[Old Nick]

I used my disc sander to remove the bare minimum on the outside edge. If you look at Phil's third pic on the first post, you can see roughly what you're going for. The actual top is sort of recessed, so you take the very edge off, but the top fits down into the body a little bit.

Did @LandCruiserPhil ’s
Mod some months ago and it worked like a charm. It’s an easy little job and quite satisfying not to have bubbling sounds
Coming from my fuel tank (or any fuel smells around the rig).