I need some help installing LED tail lights... (1 Viewer)

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Ok , got some time to get started and tore into the old lights yesterday , what a mess -

I cut a pair of filler plates to cover the oem holes to allow the bases for the new led's to be surface mounted to the rear crossmember . The filler plates were only face welded , not fully gap welded/penetrated to allow removal later if I ever want to return to oem tail lights .

Once mounted , I set up the guards I bent up so they mount to the factory holes in the ends of the crossmember and tabs to fit over the top of the stock bumperettes .

Sarge

Dang son, that's some good fitment of that filler plate. How'd you cut it?

And I can believe you didn't try to repair the old light housings - they aren't that bad! (Ha ha)
 
The plates were easy enough , those holes are 2.5" exact inside and the 3/16" material fit like a glove .

Worked a bit on the hitch and waiting now for paint to dry/harden on all the parts and need to start on the wiring too .

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Here's my favorite tool - Dynasty 200DX tig/stick and the crazy cart I built for it - first major aluminum job with it .

work site.jpg

2013-08-20-377 (2).jpg

Had a lot of issues with rod lately , some of the Hobart 7018 was either too old or just crap when it was made , had to grind out a lot on that hitch , man I hate that . New box and it ran a lot better .
Sarge
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work site.jpg
2013-08-20-377 (2).jpg
 
Nice welding cart!
 
Still kind of a newbie here with tons of problems, but thats half the battle...anyway talked to alot of people however a guy at www.autolumination.com explained tons to me about watt, amp , volt , etc. Anyway took the chance on a EL 13 (CF13ANL) flasher for led plugged in hooked ground no problems. no resistor to any seperate lights that could get pricey running tons of led. P.O. did alot of the wiring since he put on aftermarket , but splicing off orignal wiring lum ran all lights and reverse and 4 plug trailer harness works fine. running 2 4" 24 amber diode up front for park and turn, 2 4" 24 red diode stop/turn/tail light and 2 4" 24 pearl white diode for reverse (did splice that into a toggle switch before going to the back so I can use when ever I want it).
 
The plates were easy enough , those holes are 2.5" exact inside and the 3/16" material fit like a glove .

Worked a bit on the hitch and waiting now for paint to dry/harden on all the parts and need to start on the wiring too .

Here's my favorite tool - Dynasty 200DX tig/stick and the crazy cart I built for it - first major aluminum job with it .

Had a lot of issues with rod lately , some of the Hobart 7018 was either too old or just crap when it was made , had to grind out a lot on that hitch , man I hate that . New box and it ran a lot better .
Sarge

Miller's good stuff. You prob need to bake your rods - they're wet. You try that already?
 
Yeah, rods were heated in the neighboring welding shop , they were just junk . We bent a few and found sections where the rod was not only thin but had gaps in the metal . Quality rod is worth the money , 'nuff said .
I want to make some final changes/mods to the cart and a buddy of mine is going to polish it - sort of owes me a few favors . The thing works out great , will easily fit through a 28" door way with room to spare and balancing point is easy , works out great on stairs too .

Hopefully finishing up paint today after I sandblast a trailer axle for another guy - it's a real jewel .
Sarge
 
Got most everything done for now , taking it to work tomorrow . Lit those stop lamps tonight in the dark , wow - might get some complaints there in traffic , lol .
Need to install the 7/5/4 trailer plug and finish all the rear wiring underneath later this week but I got called out to work , hottest days here this year , figures .
Sarge
 
These lights look very interesting... although I don't like the chrome housing, they look almost OEM other than the mounts obviously.

narva.jpg
 
Finally got mine in last night; fortunately it was 10 degrees cooler than normal for August here!

I went cheap and easy on the mounts, just cut four pieces of scrap steel (two per side) to act as hold-down clamps:

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Wires all connected, using heat-shrink tubing and "NO-OX-ID" grease to protect the connectors from the elements:

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Then I used the load resistor to jump between the turn signal and ground wire, per the diagram on the packaging. Used zip ties to attach them to convenient holes in my cross-member:

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Reinstalled the stock splash guard/cover, and was done. Like everyone else said, these are bright! Testing them by myself, I wasn't sure if I could tell if the brake lights were working or not, sitting in the truck while working the brake pedal - but they light up the shop in back of the truck, even with the shop door open. Less-than-ideal photos with the tail lights only on; one with a flash and one without:

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The light was so bright that it washed out my point-and-shoot camera (the tail lights aren't really orange). I'm really happy with these; so much safer and more visible than the stock lights.
 
1911...excellent write up with pics.

I'm looking for MALE taillight plug to OEM late model lamps. Anybody have some?

I would hate to cut plug off my brand new lamps, in case I decide to go back...
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You should just buy some old junk lights and get the plugs off those... no need to butcher new lights. Post in the WTB section
 
Is it in one these lists?

Rudi

I don't believe any of those match plug.

I could simply cut female plug off rear harness and use bullet connectors to LED taillight.
 
Here's how mine turned out for now , still need to finish the trailer plug and powered convertor to run standard trailer turn/brake lamps . I will install the plug behind the driver's bumperette sometime this week if it cools off a bit .

I took the stock connectors apart since they were in amazingly good condition despite how rotted the original lamps had been and re-used the blades by soldering in the new wires on the Narva lamps .

stock plug wire.jpg

stock wire plug 2.jpg

Here is everything mounted up including the custom guards I made from 3/16" steel -

final fit.jpg

Sarge
stock plug wire.jpg
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final fit.jpg
 
Did some testing of brightness last nite at dusk without the engine running , they are very bright and no excuses if someone ever hits it .

marker lights on.jpg

turn signals on.jpg

reverse lights on.jpg

A buddy stopped by after it got dark - even with the guards in place the built-in reflectors light up pretty well . I'm trying to find some round bolt-in units that might sit flush into the stock bumperette for a neater look and give it a bit more reflector when parked . Still considering installing the stock round reflector units into the corners since it is sitting many times on construction sites in harm's way - just don't want it getting hit .

Next installment is installing the 7/5/4 wiring plug , powered convertor and possibly a semi-hidden trailer brake controller . This old 40's job is to work and serve to keep my nearly perfect '08 Taco in top shape .
Sarge
marker lights on.jpg
turn signals on.jpg
reverse lights on.jpg
 
Weber Sarge said:
Did some testing of brightness last nite at dusk without the engine running , they are very bright and no excuses if someone ever hits it .

A buddy stopped by after it got dark - even with the guards in place the built-in reflectors light up pretty well . I'm trying to find some round bolt-in units that might sit flush into the stock bumperette for a neater look and give it a bit more reflector when parked . Still considering installing the stock round reflector units into the corners since it is sitting many times on construction sites in harm's way - just don't want it getting hit .

Next installment is installing the 7/5/4 wiring plug , powered convertor and possibly a semi-hidden trailer brake controller . This old 40's job is to work and serve to keep my nearly perfect '08 Taco in top shape .
Sarge

Damn good work sarge! No wonder you can keep that rig looking so nice in Illinois...
 
Well done Sarge - the LEDs look great.

I highly rate the bottle opener modification too!

Dan
 
Now that Dan is home, I thought I'd post a pic of him wheeling with me at 6,500' (low for New Mexico but high for Australia). It was great to catch up while he was here.
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WTREXPLR said:
Still kind of a newbie here with tons of problems, but thats half the battle...anyway talked to alot of people however a guy at www.autolumination.com explained tons to me about watt, amp , volt , etc. Anyway took the chance on a EL 13 (CF13ANL) flasher for led plugged in hooked ground no problems. no resistor to any seperate lights that could get pricey running tons of led. P.O. did alot of the wiring since he put on aftermarket , but splicing off orignal wiring lum ran all lights and reverse and 4 plug trailer harness works fine. running 2 4" 24 amber diode up front for park and turn, 2 4" 24 red diode stop/turn/tail light and 2 4" 24 pearl white diode for reverse (did splice that into a toggle switch before going to the back so I can use when ever I want it).

I tried that with mine and it worked great until I hooked up a trailer with incandescent bulbs and I fried it. That's when I went to the resistor and put my Toyota flasher back in.
 

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