I broke my own rule again with a 1994 petrol pickup "Iota" (1 Viewer)

[JuanJ]

Well I was up at the warehouse (sweating) yesterday. Poking around at the carb on the pickup and then comparing it a bit to the carb on the troopy. Handy having two 70 series of the same age next to each other.

The truck starts willingly. But it obviously runs very rich. It runs smoothly at 1500 or so, but dies on idle. After reading the FSM I thought I might try to adjust the idle mixture. I had some trouble interpreting the FSM.
View attachment 2702331
The idle speed and idle mixture adjustments are not in the most convenient location to reach.

You have to reach over the engine and you definitely have to remove the air intake tube to get to the idle mixture.

I had no idea what 'SST Type' was all about, so I took a close up photo.

That collar around the idle mixture adjustment screw just freely rotates. This really annoyed me. I went back and read some more and found that SST means 'Special Service Tool' or this doohickey:

I checked with Ryan the parts magician and not even the Omani's have this little tool. Why make it so difficult to make the adjustment? This morning, however, I read this in the FSM:

CAUTION:​

• Always use a CO meter when adjusting the idle​

mixture. It is not necessary to adjust with the idle​

mixture adjusting screw in most vehicles if they are​

in good condition.​

So I guess the idle mixture is supposed to be set at the factory and you are only supposed to mess with it if you have a CO meter. The guys at the garage had partially rebuilt this carb and I will bet the idle mixture setting is bad. The good news is that Ryan today is delivering a brand spanking new carb for Iota!

Nice, right!?

Hello,

Your truck is GCC spec. GCC Spec carburetors require that SST to adjust the mixture/fuel screw.

The manual is a bit vague on the adjustment procedure.

If you do not have a CO meter at hand, you can try this:

1. Start the engine. Drive around until it is warm.
2. With the SST, turn the fuel screw in until the tachometer reads 600 rpm. The needle should jump back and forth a little bit.
3. Once the needle jumps back and forth, turn the fuel screw out a little until your tachometer reads 600 rpm with no jumps.

This is a rough method but it works until you can have the truck tuned with a CO meter.

Proper idle speed once the mix is properly adjusted to be lean should be (650 ± 50) rpm

Hope this helps.





Juan

 

[John Young]

Your truck is GCC spec. GCC Spec carburetors require that SST to adjust the mixture/fuel screw.

I wonder what the reasoning is behind this.

I have not had a look in person at the new carb. Hopefully it does not have this 'screwy' SST adjuster on it.

 

[flx]

Maybe is to avoid people doing stupid things. In the history of humanity, randomly turning screws on a carb and then saying carbs are not working correctly is really a classical. Particularly now that they are not common.

For the how to set I wonder if you could forget the CO meter and do the old fashion 40 series method ?
There are threads detailing it better in the appropriate section but basically you turn the idle speed screw to your target idle (600rpm ?), then you turn your mixture screw to get the highest rpm possible, then you adjust again the idle speed to 600 and start again until you can't move the RPM up with the mixture screw.

 

[John Young]

Maybe is to avoid people doing stupid things. In the history of humanity, randomly turning screws on a carb and then saying carbs are not working correctly is really a classical. Particularly now that they are not common.

For the how to set I wonder if you could forget the CO meter and do the old fashion 40 series method ?
There are threads detailing it better in the appropriate section but basically you turn the idle speed screw to your target idle (600rpm ?), then you turn your mixture screw to get the highest rpm possible, then you adjust again the idle speed to 600 and start again until you can't move the RPM up with the mixture screw.

That's actually verbatim from the 1FE-F FSM:

"If a CO meter is not available and it is absolutely necessary to adjust with the idle mixture adjusting screw, use the alternative method (See page EG-29)."​

​

(a) Start the engine.​

(b) Set to the maximum speed by turning the idle mixture adjusting screw.​

(c) Set to the idle mixture speed by turning the idle speed adjusting screw. Idle mixture speed: 650 rpm​

(d) Before moving to the next step continue adjustments (b) and (c) until the maximum speed will not rise any​

further no matter how much the idle mixture adjusting screw is adjusted.​

(e) Set to the idle speed by screwing in the idle mixture adjusting screw. Idle speed: 600 rpm​

This is Lean Drop Method for setting idle speed and mixture.​

They do seem to disapprove, however.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Just to update you all on the local weather, which is starting to become noteworthy:
View attachment 2697751
Here's the news item. That's 120F. Bit warm, even for here. And the humidity is reaching 90% in places.

I went up to the warehouse last evening after work and had to take it pretty easy. Stopping frequently and drinking lots of ice water.
View attachment 2697752
I like to imagine that the heat and humidity is good for me--like a sauna. Only free and all around you.

I worked out of Dubai for six years. Our projects were mostly in Iraq. Southern Iraq was probably the worst at 57-60 C near Basra (made worse by the ground level gas flaring in Rumalla) but Dubai never got over 49 deg C officially because they would have to shut down outdoor construction at 50C. The humidity there was a killer when wind came off the Gulf, but temperatures were hotter coming off the desert. But I was an engineer in Business Bay so didn't matter much. I stopped biking to work when it was over 40 and just hopped on the Metro Gold Cars.

Would be quite interested in a LHD 100 Series with the 1HD-TFE (I think it's called) the one with an intercooler that ekes out 200HP. Shipped to Canada so only needs to be 2006 or older.

Regards, loving the thread.

 

[John Young]

Would be quite interested in a LHD 100 Series with the 1HD-TFE (I think it's called) the one with an intercooler that ekes out 200HP. Shipped to Canada so only needs to be 2006 or older.

You and me both, brother!

But biking in Dubai--that's an invitation to heat stroke for 3/4 of the year! I do not know how the motorcycle messengers survive.

 

[Honger]

You and me both, brother!

But biking in Dubai--that's an invitation to heat stroke for 3/4 of the year! I do not know how the motorcycle messengers survive.

I spent two summers doing pavement inspection and rehabs on airfields in Abu Dhabi… you can build up a tolerance. And drink loads of water.

 

[John Young]

Hi again.

Well I'm now back in Dubai and a lot has happened. Iota got a brand new factory OEM carb and as I write this, the pickup is going over for inspection for registration!

AND I have found my favorite OEM rim style for Iota:

I bought them yesterday in Sharjah and put them in the back of my Omani diesel 80 (which is suffering by being used as a parts truck--and it was not pretty before, either.

After getting the tires off it was pretty obvious they need to be sand or bead blasted. I'm now on the fence re high gloss light grey OEM toyota color like the steelies, which would be cool, or high gloss black.

I found a great metal finishing company over in DIP that I'm quite anxious to see the work product of, as I have some more rims to do!

 

[John Young]

Well, I am learning something new. Powder coaters use a "RAL" code. I'm pondering getting close to the steel rim colors. Here is a RAL chart:

Other posters here in the 40 series sub have mentioned RAL 7037. I am leaning towards RAL 7040 as it looks a little more cheerful. I don't see any relevant posts here in the 70 series sub, unfortunately.

The other option is to go with a black:

Black has the advantage that it won't show the dust from the front disks nearly as bad. And it would be a bit more dramatic/distinctive.

 

[Rigster]

What about going with a "flat black"? I am kind of partial to that look though....

 

[John Young]

What about going with a "flat black"? I am kind of partial to that look though....

That is one of the colors I considered. But this is not going to be a bada** truck. I wanted something a little less of a statement. I have an old AUS-style flat bed back that I am going to mount on it which already may raise eyebrows.

 

[AirheadNut]

Congratulations on finally tracking down a set of rims! I like the idea of a grey or black powder coat finish. It may just be my monitor, but the RAL 7040 looks a little bit blue, which may not fit as well with a brown truck. The black would be cool and give good contrast; 9004, 9011 and 9017 seem like they would look really nice.

 

[John Young]

Thanks AirHead! And I did finally settle on the darkest black, RAL 2005.

And a big milestone today!

I can now register the pickup and actually drive it around on the road!.

(I will see what I can do about the displacement discrepancy.)

 

[John Young]

Easier said than done....

I left work early yesterday and went to the government services center up in Dubai Investment Park, which normally can handle most anything car-related. Well, the documentation I got from Emirates Auction is not adequate. I received an Ownership Certificate but what is missing is a Transfer Certificate to move the vehicle from the Abu Dhabi Emirate to the Dubai Emirate.

Ok, so how do I get that? The service center guys said that the service center in the Sharjah Emirate could do it because they were on the same system as Abu Dhabi. Ok; fine. Were they sure? They suggested I try calling them... Calling a government entity is challenging, especially after about 4 pm when all the senior people start to go home. So off I drove from the Southern part of Dubai to the middle of Sharjah. About an hour drive. Got there. Surprise, surprise, no, the rules have changed and they no longer can do the paperwork from Sharjah. So I have to go to Abu Dhabi.

Never one to waste a trip to Sharjah, and because they salvage yards stay open til 8 pm I was able to go and hunt up a replacement power steering pump for the 75 Troopy which the guys had scavenged to get the pickup ready for inspection. I renewed handshakes with several guys and honestly had a nice little break from frustrating paperwork.

Here is an interesting animal that one of my favorite guys offered me:

There are many, many things wrong with these pictures. But it was fun to see it. The seller knew he had a real pig here and that there was no way it could be registered with any reasonable level of effort. I think it will end up being torn down. Suspension also was nonstandard.

But in the end my friend Reza was able to find me a 1FZ power steering pump!

So yesterday's driving was not a waste after all.

This morning I started looking at that and actually did call the Police General HQ in Abu Dhabi and talked to them about it, confirming that because this car had not previously been registered this could not be done online and I had to come and sign in person. Oh, and you need a PCR test to come into the government office and a green Al Hosn pass showing that I was immunized. How do I get that...?

Well the Al Hosn app is in the google play store so no problem with that. Then log in with UAE Pass, the nation-wide ID system. How do I get my US immunization recognized? Well, go to the

and register your US vaccination record. Then wait. THEN get ANOTHER PCR test; make sure that is uploaded and maybe your Al Hosn app will turn green. So that is where I am now, process-wise.

 

[John Young]

I went to a drive through PCR test today and the app on my phone turned 'green' so I can go visit the government office in Abu Dhabi tomorrow.

Meanwhile the metal finishing company has gotten the rims back from the blaster:

And the primer has gone on:

I was a little worried about using sand as opposed to bead blasting but the details were not damaged.

I really love these particular rims. And it is obvious that Mr. Toyoda's engineers did their usual good job.

That little relief there will allow water to get out from under the mating surface.

The next step is the high gloss black finish!

 

[John Young]

Busy day today. I took the day off work completely and drove down in the Omani diesel 80 to the police GHQ in Abu Dhabi. The whole process took 10 minutes and I had my transfer certificate moving the title from Abu Dhabi to Dubai.

My buddy down in AD was having trouble with the clutch on his carbed 80 and was trying to register a car in Dubai, so he called a wrecker to take his 80 to the mechanic he likes in the Jebel Ali free zone, and he drove up with me in the diesel 80.

We went to the government service center up in Dubai Investment Park 2, which usually is great, but the afternoon guy who does transfers was on leave. So no dice. My friend drove his other 80 and went back to Abu Dhabi, and I drove over to another government service center in Discovery Gardens, by which time it was dark, and there they managed to process the transfer and issue plates:

Nine number too, I think.

And as these things happen, on the way to this service center the instrument cluster on the Omani diesel 80 went completely dead. Windows dead. Other conveniences dead. Headlights work; and because this is a 1 wire mechanical pump diesel with a manual transmission, the thing is still perfectly drivable.

So karma has dictated that the Omani diesel is passing the baton of daily driver over to the pickup while I get the 80 sorted out. Awfully nice of the 80 to wait until it did before giving up. I've been using it pretty heavily.

And in other news, the new rims for the pickup are ready to be picked up:

Friday the metal coating company is closed so I will pick up the rims on Saturday and get some nice new factory OEM Dunlops that I have in the warehouse put on. Then I will head off to Sharjah to look for a few items and pick up 84 lug nuts (I am replacing some on the other vehicles).

 

[cruiserdan]

Probable gauge fuse.

 

[AirheadNut]

It could also be the 30A Power fuse, I had an HZJ81 with inop. power windows and sunroof (and probably other things too, but I never tested anything else) and it turned out to be a melted 30A fuse. (#17 shown in the Fuse Block diagram)

 

[John Young]

It could also be the 30A Power fuse, I had an HZJ81 with inop. power windows and sunroof (and probably other things too, but I never tested anything else) and it turned out to be a melted 30A fuse. (#17 shown in the Fuse Block diagram)
View attachment 2860463

Thank you so much AHN and CruiserDan! I will look at Fuses 7 and 17 this morning and see what is what, before looking at all the rest of the fuses.

 

[cruisermatt]

more importantly, figure out why it blew