I broke my own rule again with a 1994 petrol pickup "Iota"

[John Young]

Iota is finally really in paint:

And new rims and rubber, freshly powder coated are waiting:

These tires came off current production LC pickups being converted to light armored vehicles. Fresh thin, tall Dunlops

 

[John Young]

Here is Iota with new shoes:

I like the powder coating company I have been using. And I am going to powder coat Iota's dash in silver, just for fun. Took two dashes apart this evening--one for Iota and the other for the troopy.

Had a little fun with Iota's grill too:

 

[John Young]

Ok; a lot has gone on that I have not written about. The short version is that the truck is painted but work just stopped at that point.

I've decided to start pushing forward myself rather than wait. One thing I did was find brand new running boards.

I've taken them apart and rattle canned the bottoms and the brackets to give a little extra protection and then bed liner'ed the tops after taking off the rubber edging, which simply unbolts.

The running boards have just been sitting there so today I decided to put them back on the truck as an easy and fund way to make visible progress. When I went down under I had a few surprises waiting for me....but I am falling asleep now and will have to continue this tomorrow.

 

[John Young]

I've been very busy with Trypo the 80, the troopy and I've decided to move the pickup elsewhere. Today I fitted the powder coated bull bar on Iota

It almost fit....

See that sledge hammer just below the corner of the bull bar?

I was able to persuade it into place. I only had to hammer on the pickup frame a little.

I also retrieved the doors to the pickup. Sadly, the inside is painted, but not the outside. I just got tired of waiting...

I'm thinking maybe I will have the outside of the doors painted white or black, just for fun. I think it would be difficult to match the shade of the rest of the truck.

 

[John Young]

Now it is time to start putting things back together. Including the new rear window. I'm struggling a bit with this. I hunted on Mud but did not find a procedure for putting the window back in. Any suggestions?

 

[Felde]

The window appears to have a rubber seal all around? So no frame like e.g the 73s sliding side windows have?
(Some more detailed picks of the window frame / seal would help).

If so, I assume it has a (probably larger) lip to go over the edge to the outside and a (probably smaller, or same size) lip to go on the inside, and a channel in the middle, where that metal edge in the body's window frame is supposed to go.

Lube rubber with dishwashing liquid / soapy water.
Put a cord into the channel ends, 1ft excess. Put the window into position on the bottom and use the cord to pull the (smaller) rubber lip over the edge. (2 people's job).
There are several videos on YouTube that show the principles of this procedure.
The procedure to install the front window is similar (with the difference that the glass goes into that channel between the rubber sealing lips) and is well described in the body manual.
You may want to consider some mastic between rubber lips and body to make sure it's watertight.
Cheers Ralf

 

[cruiserdan]

 

[John Young]

Thank you both, Feld and Cruiserdan.

The replacement is a brand new pull off of one of the pickups going for armored car conversion so it is very nice. I was trying to do it myself last evening and not getting anywhere. I knew a rope was involved somehow, but the Eastwood video really helped in terms of visualization. I will give it a try when a friend is next available to help.

 

[John Young]

Today I gave it a try to put in the windows. Instead of getting a thin cord I got 5 meters of 2 mil stainless cable--the local hardware store had only very thick cord.

The back window really requires help because it is very hard for one person to hold it in place. Fortunately, a nice young man happened by and I shanghaied him into helping hold the back glass in place for me.

It worked just like the Eastwood video demonstrated. It was a BIG help that I had sprayed down both channels (inner for the window and outer for the frame) with silicone lubricant. I checked beforehand and it won't harm paint or rubber and it really helped things slide around much more easily. I did not want to use soapy water because of the water.

Here was the last little bit just before it snapped completely in place.

The nice young man did the last bit.

 

[John Young]

I decided to try the windshield myself because the panel would tend to lie in place given the angle. This was the old rubber that I re-used. I thought I had bought a new one but I guess it was misplaced or I never did get it. The rubber was in good shape and looked fine especially after I wiped it down with silicone lubricant.

The top corners were the hardest bits. I ended up having to use plastic body tools to pry the corners into place.

But eventually it popped into place.

It would have been much easier with two people. Pressing down on the glass really helped to get the rubber to move into place, and working alone I had to pull the cable with one hand and press with the other. I do recommend getting help from a friend.

 

[cruiserdan]

Did you use a urethane sealer on the windshield-to-gasket and the gasket-to-windshield frame?

If not it may leak. Keep an eye on it. If it does leak you will need to pull it and re-install it using the sealer. If that ends up being the case use a new gasket as I think silicone may interfere with sealing.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Looks good John. Just curious, what’s the issue with soapy water? Wouldn’t be there long in that climate.

 

[John Young]

Did you use a urethane sealer on the windshield-to-gasket and the gasket-to-windshield frame?

If not it may leak. Keep an eye on it. If it does leak you will need to pull it and re-install it using the sealer. If that ends up being the case use a new gasket as I think silicone may interfere with sealing.View attachment 2987182View attachment 2987183

Thanks Dan. I actually do have the special sealant for windshields but I chose not to use it this time. The rubber seems to be making a good seal on the new paint. I will keep an eye on it. Re the silicone spray I'm thinking it should clean up on the paint side with acetone if I end up having to re-do this. And I will use a new gasket. The pages from the manual are much appreciated.

 

[John Young]

Looks good John. Just curious, what’s the issue with soapy water? Wouldn’t be there long in that climate.

My gut is telling me that the water would be in there for a long, long time, assuming the seal is good, which I think it is. Even in this climate water gets trapped, especially behind seals.

I've actually got a bunch of issues with this pickup, but I'm trying to get it mobile again. I have a deadline for re-inspection and re-registration coming up and the speedometer cable got burned during the welding for the rust repair and I am moving out of the warehouse I have been using so I'm pushing forward with all deliberate speed.

Next big project is to get the UTE bed on the thing. And I have a cunning plan involving 55 gallon oil drums and Janyyc's (of the 12km 2008 76 fame) recovery jack to accomplish that.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

My gut is telling me that the water would be in there for a long, long time, assuming the seal is good, which I think it is. Even in this climate water gets trapped, especially behind seals.

I've actually got a bunch of issues with this pickup, but I'm trying to get it mobile again. I have a deadline for re-inspection and re-registration coming up and the speedometer cable got burned during the welding for the rust repair and I am moving out of the warehouse I have been using so I'm pushing forward with all deliberate speed.

Next big project is to get the UTE bed on the thing. And I have a cunning plan involving 55 gallon oil drums and Janyyc's (of the 12km 2008 76 fame) recovery jack to accomplish that.

Got to go with your gut. Science tells me otherwise; FWIW.

Please be careful with your cunning plan. Sounds like it could be a "hold my beer" moment in the making. Seriously though; don't get hurt. We don't bounce like we used to.

 

[FJ73Texas]

Thanks Dan. I actually do have the special sealant for windshields but I chose not to use it this time. The rubber seems to be making a good seal on the new paint. I will keep an eye on it. Re the silicone spray I'm thinking it should clean up on the paint side with acetone if I end up having to re-do this. And I will use a new gasket. The pages from the manual are much appreciated.

The guy that installed my windshield highly recommended sealant. He used a drill type powered device that made it easy for him to insert it all the way around (in red circle). I wish I had one of those.'

This guy was a pro at doing the install and the only local glass guy I could find that allowed me to ship the new windshield directly to him from partsouq and was willing to do this type of install. He called me when it came in and set up an appointment to install it. The only thing he griped a little about was the stupid headliner trim that goes down the A pillar that some of the 77 series have.

 

[John Young]

The guy that installed my windshield highly recommended sealant. He used a drill type powered device that made it easy for him to insert it all the way around (in red circle). I wish I had one of those.

View attachment 2987261

It actually really pissed me off when I got the special (expensive) sealant and the window installer on the Omani diesel 80 did not use it despite my repeated requests. The good news is that the Omani is going in for a full repaint and I will take the opportunity then to use the sealant--which hopefully is still good despite sitting in a hot warehouse for most of a year. The Omani and the gas 80 with the new roof are getting new solid rear windows (I think the split rear windows in the 80 are one of the few mistakes Mr. Toyoda made with the 80), and I will definitely make sure that sealant gets used there.

Re your guy\s special tool, I think it could be an earlier model of a Milwaukee M12 2441-20:

Ever since CruiserMatt demonstrated how good the M12 series were for the stuff we do I've been accumulating them. This one is 129 USD at various discount tool places. I can't -quite- justify spending a sawbuck for this, but if I did more windows I certainly would.

I don't really think of the pickup as an all-weather car. I'm planning to use it in the UAE for parts runs to Sharjah (to save on wear and tear on my stations wagons) and when it goes to Florida it will be used for the same kind of thing plus landscaping runs.

 

[John Young]

Got to go with your gut. Science tells me otherwise; FWIW.

Please be careful with your cunning plan. Sounds like it could be a "hold my beer" moment in the making. Seriously though; don't get hurt. We don't bounce like we used to.

But...

 

[John Young]

I spent a couple of hours cleaning up the UTE back that is meant to go on Iota. It cleaned up nicely.

Earlier in the day my friend from Abu Dhabi and I went to Sharjah and I found a new firewall blanket for the truck. It is for a post 2000 70 series, but I think it should work.

The new one is on the left.

 

[John Young]

I made some more progress over the weekend by getting the new UTE back on Iota--by myself--using Janyyc;s recovery jack from Ali the new-old 70 series, and some empty 55 gallon barrels:

My initial and very bad idea was to put the drums on roller skates. Not a good idea at all.

Turns out that off-center loads on roller skates slide around.

So nix that. Let's get the UTE back up in the air but stable at least:

Okay, that's pretty good.

Now remove the mud flap things