I am car audio illiterate

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I can install things as long as I know they work or fit but do not understand the technical aspect of car audio when it comes to sound. My factor sub has finally failed in my 91 FJ80 getting some great crackling sound when more bass instensive songs are playing almost thought it was electrical sparking when I was driving kind of freaked me out anyways I am just looking for something simple to put in to stop the cracking and still provide some sound was looking at this. It is a 6" sub correct? Should I be looking at something different? I just want to take the old one out put the new one in no special mounts or boxes I am a simple guy when it comes to this.

Amazon.com: Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics
 
If you want a ton of value for your dollar then take an afternoon and install the Pioneers:

Fitment of Pioneer TS-G series speakers behind OEM grills

For the Sub, I would confirm if this is same size as it may be a drop in replacement:

Lexus LX450 bolt in replacement sub!

I already have pioneers in the speakers that work great for my needs. The LX450 has a sub in the center console that is smaller than the one in the 80 I am looking to see if anyone has just swapped out the sub in the 80 with one the same size most threads I found on search were of people building or buying mounts or boxes with bigger subs I am just not interested in spending money on a mount or box I like to factory look and appreciate the space I have without a box back there. I only have the speakers behind the dash and in the door and I like the sound that comes out. Our LX470 on the other hand is the wifes and we might upgrade from the Mark Levinson in the there but we will see too many other things need to happen on all 3 rigs before that.
 
Crutchfield.com has a fitment guide that will match up with truck and factory sizing. In my experience they have always stated if it is a direct fit or if some customization must be done.
 
The reasoning is a free-air sub (no enclosure) will have poor sound quality, that's why many add a box.
A bazooka bass tube is a nice idea if you want something removable that sounds good. I'd get the 10"
 
I don't really care about sound quality I just want something that is not going to crackle when music is playing. I tried crutchfield everything they offer under subs is the full range nothing annotated with fitment since most appear to be custom placement anyways which is what most people do.
 
sadly I don't believe there is "drop in" replacement - for the rear "sub" -

what Toyota has back there is more so an "woofer" - in attempts to illicit
a "low end" (bass response) -more akin to a low end response "loudspeaker" (remember we are talking 1990's)

there are indeed such things are "free air" subwoofers - but none are drop in fits and even those are meant to use
a seal space (like a trunk) as the enclosure. and I don't believe I have ever seen a 6" free air....

the only "easy" path is a bazooka tube - but that still requires some basic amp wiring ups....

Bf
 
I say forget about what other people tell you you should do "instead".

If you want a comparable replacement, go for it! The only trouble is that the factory speaker measures something like 6.75", so there are really no aftermarket options and that's why you're not finding anyone who's done a write-up on it.

The woofer you listed is not a good replacement because it has dual voice coils and it is made to work with a lot of power, which you don't have. There are some 7" woofers out there, maybe you can find something modest to work with low power. Good luck!
 
@jdayment I read about this awhile back. The consensus I read was that the power amp for the sub wasn't very powerful either to push an aftermarket. I put a 6.5 in the rear where my factory sub was and I can't even hear it.

If you ever need help wiring stuff let me know. I ran all of my amp wires etc and would be happy to help out.
 
I decided to go with an inexpensive 6.5" woofer 300 amps nothing to crazy I might hit you up on the offer when I get around to doing some other wiring though I need to do a blue sea panel electrical in general is a weak point for me.
 
I decided to go with an inexpensive 6.5" woofer 300 amps nothing to crazy I might hit you up on the offer when I get around to doing some other wiring though I need to do a blue sea panel electrical in general is a weak point for me.

I am going to do the same thing soon...once I get everything ordered. We could probably knock most of it out in a day. I can send you a list of everything I am ordering if you need.
 
Have you read through this thread?

Subwoofer, factory location/hidden

If you can bend a little sheet metal, this may be an easier solution. There are several "under seat" powered sub enclosures that will slip into the space behind the rear panel.
 
I can install things as long as I know they work or fit but do not understand the technical aspect of car audio when it comes to sound. My factor sub has finally failed in my 91 FJ80 getting some great crackling sound when more bass instensive songs are playing almost thought it was electrical sparking when I was driving kind of freaked me out anyways I am just looking for something simple to put in to stop the cracking and still provide some sound was looking at this. It is a 6" sub correct? Should I be looking at something different? I just want to take the old one out put the new one in no special mounts or boxes I am a simple guy when it comes to this.

Amazon.com: Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer: Car Electronics

I used that same sub with a 45 watt Alpine amp (I believe the stock amp doesn't have enough juice to power the 4 OHM Pyle). I'm not going to say it thumps, but you can tell that there is some extra bass there. I packed the area behind the panel with polyfill to reduce the air space.

The Tang Band 6.5" is better, if you could get it to fit.
 

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