Thats really cool
HZJ40 RestoMod v3.0 (New, improved, and now with fewer sparkplugs) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lelandEOD
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #223
I’m just about done with the initial mock up of the powerplant in the frame. It will shortly come back out so I can permanently weld the pedestals, run brake and fuel lines, and build the transmission/transfer case.
One major’ish issue was the engine water outlet pipe. The 1HZ engine points the water outlet right into the location where I want to place my primary battery. After mulling over options for several days, I finally opted to section and rotate the outlet at a sharper angle to meet the radiator inlet.
Now I just need to find someone who can weld it up for me.
One major’ish issue was the engine water outlet pipe. The 1HZ engine points the water outlet right into the location where I want to place my primary battery. After mulling over options for several days, I finally opted to section and rotate the outlet at a sharper angle to meet the radiator inlet.
Now I just need to find someone who can weld it up for me.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #224
I also had to settle on final locations (and build the supports) for my dual batteries, adjust my radiator and support bracket position, and adapt a fan shroud to work with this engine.
Like others have done before me, I opted to cut out the factory radiator support brackets and replace them with homemade units that dropped the radiator height by about 2.5 inches. I also had to shift the radiator assembly towards the passenger side by about 1.5” to clear the 80 series power steering box. In this position, I was able to use a stock a FJ40 fan shroud turned upside down. It required a few modifications to fill the gap at the top and to clear the lower radiator outlet as seen here:
Like others have done before me, I opted to cut out the factory radiator support brackets and replace them with homemade units that dropped the radiator height by about 2.5 inches. I also had to shift the radiator assembly towards the passenger side by about 1.5” to clear the 80 series power steering box. In this position, I was able to use a stock a FJ40 fan shroud turned upside down. It required a few modifications to fill the gap at the top and to clear the lower radiator outlet as seen here:
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #225
Last but not least were the dual battery pedestals and coolant overflow bottle.
I made the pedestals from scratch and got everything tucked in pretty nicely.
The driver’s side location is a tight fit between the battery and the radiator outlet (above) as well as the PS reservoir inlet.
The passenger side battery position is tight because I wanted to retain the -70 series overflow bottle but need the pedestal as far forward as possible to make room for the 1HDT air filter canister.
I was also able to discretely mount my Flaming River battery cutoff switch under the primary pedestal. Both battery pedestals tie into the radiator support through rubber isolator pads And the whole setup is rock solid.
I made the pedestals from scratch and got everything tucked in pretty nicely.
The driver’s side location is a tight fit between the battery and the radiator outlet (above) as well as the PS reservoir inlet.
The passenger side battery position is tight because I wanted to retain the -70 series overflow bottle but need the pedestal as far forward as possible to make room for the 1HDT air filter canister.
I was also able to discretely mount my Flaming River battery cutoff switch under the primary pedestal. Both battery pedestals tie into the radiator support through rubber isolator pads And the whole setup is rock solid.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #227
I’ve been working on small jobs lately in preparation for some larger tasks on the horizon.
These are actually things that I’ve been putting off either because I wasn’t sure what approach I wanted to take or because I had no idea what I wanted to end up with or how to accomplish it (e-brake lever).
The gas pedal: After looking at the FJ40 pedal, the pedal from the HZJ75, and the throttle cable, I decided the easiest solution was to graft the HZJ75 pedal-end to the -40’s pedal assembly. This way, the 1HZ’s throttle cable and hand throttle will attach directly to the 40’s pedal. Snip snip...
These are actually things that I’ve been putting off either because I wasn’t sure what approach I wanted to take or because I had no idea what I wanted to end up with or how to accomplish it (e-brake lever).
The gas pedal: After looking at the FJ40 pedal, the pedal from the HZJ75, and the throttle cable, I decided the easiest solution was to graft the HZJ75 pedal-end to the -40’s pedal assembly. This way, the 1HZ’s throttle cable and hand throttle will attach directly to the 40’s pedal. Snip snip...
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #228
Next up, the cooling fan shroud.
I’ve not experienced a busted fan belt out in the desert, but I’ve stared at my engine/fan, radiator and fan shroud arrangement long enough to realize that a field replacement of the fan belt would be an absolute PITA. The solution was to modify the fan shroud into a 2-piece design to easy impromptu belt changes... but how?
Break out the die grinder and spot welder!
It may not be the most elegant solution but I think it will work just fine. I can now just loosen the upper shroud section to fish a new belt in there if needed.
I’ve not experienced a busted fan belt out in the desert, but I’ve stared at my engine/fan, radiator and fan shroud arrangement long enough to realize that a field replacement of the fan belt would be an absolute PITA. The solution was to modify the fan shroud into a 2-piece design to easy impromptu belt changes... but how?
Break out the die grinder and spot welder!
It may not be the most elegant solution but I think it will work just fine. I can now just loosen the upper shroud section to fish a new belt in there if needed.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #229
I wrestled for a while with where to place the glow plug timer. Almost every spot I found had an issue with interference or some other problem. I finally settled on the right side of the pedal cluster housing. This location will allow me to orient the timer with the plug side facing down which will hopefully mitigate dust and moisture intrusion.
Break out the riv-nutter!
Break out the riv-nutter!
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #230
The parking brake mod was a bear.
The H55 meant that I had to dump the original parking brake drum, cable, and lever arrangement. I sourced a BJ70 rear axle to get the drum parking brakes but that setup necessitated that I adapt a floor mounted BJ70 cable and lever.
The issue then was how and where to mount the lever assembly. I’ve seen a couple other adaptations but I wanted it to look like something that could have been done by the factory.
The trans tunnel was the obvious choice but it lacked the needed surface area to mount the lever. It became clear that I would have to add a bulge to the tunnel to fit the lever assembly.
I literally did this with no final shape in mind. It was cobbled together with my modest sheet metal tools and even more modest knowhow.
A lot of eyeballing, CAD (cardboard aided design) and fiddling ensued.
The complex shape of the trans tunnel with it’s multitude of compound curves meant that I had no idea what the finished product would look like... I just knew that I didn’t want it to look like a scabbed-on box — more like a blister that would have been incorporated into the original stamping.
The middle section was the easy part. It’s shape was borne out of the necessity to house the lever and conform to the shape of the tunnel.
The H55 meant that I had to dump the original parking brake drum, cable, and lever arrangement. I sourced a BJ70 rear axle to get the drum parking brakes but that setup necessitated that I adapt a floor mounted BJ70 cable and lever.
The issue then was how and where to mount the lever assembly. I’ve seen a couple other adaptations but I wanted it to look like something that could have been done by the factory.
The trans tunnel was the obvious choice but it lacked the needed surface area to mount the lever. It became clear that I would have to add a bulge to the tunnel to fit the lever assembly.
I literally did this with no final shape in mind. It was cobbled together with my modest sheet metal tools and even more modest knowhow.
A lot of eyeballing, CAD (cardboard aided design) and fiddling ensued.
The complex shape of the trans tunnel with it’s multitude of compound curves meant that I had no idea what the finished product would look like... I just knew that I didn’t want it to look like a scabbed-on box — more like a blister that would have been incorporated into the original stamping.
The middle section was the easy part. It’s shape was borne out of the necessity to house the lever and conform to the shape of the tunnel.
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #232
The tail end was a SOB because I had to contend with the seat frame bracket but also needed enough free space underneath for the cable to fit in a straight’ish line to the rear axle.
I really want to invest in some good metal working tooling in the future but for now I was forced to clamp a ball peen hammer in my bench vice.
I really want to invest in some good metal working tooling in the future but for now I was forced to clamp a ball peen hammer in my bench vice.
That handbrake tunnel mod is seriously sexy. Good work!
1Fine40
Rust Buster
Excellent fab work there! The firestick makes everything...well, almost everything possible!!
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #237
Thanks, gents!
Slowly but surely, it’s getting done.
Now I’m just waiting for a shipment from Dubai to tackle the air box to turbo connections. That’s the last problem I have to solve before the entire power train gets pulled again.
Then I have to:
-Patch and paint the firewall ( not sure if I’m going to have the time, money, and energy to sand, prep, prime and paint it or if I’m just going to say, screw it, and bed line it).
-Burn in the engine/crossmember mounts
-Run the brake and fuel lines down the driver’s side frame rail
-Install my unbelievably expensive and over-thought wiring harness
-finish assembly of the H55 and split case
That should just about do it. Once the engine assembly goes back in, I’ll be able to finish up the 1,001 other miscellaneous tasks and may just have a running truck... ...in the next 9 months or so.
Slowly but surely, it’s getting done.
Now I’m just waiting for a shipment from Dubai to tackle the air box to turbo connections. That’s the last problem I have to solve before the entire power train gets pulled again.
Then I have to:
-Patch and paint the firewall ( not sure if I’m going to have the time, money, and energy to sand, prep, prime and paint it or if I’m just going to say, screw it, and bed line it).
-Burn in the engine/crossmember mounts
-Run the brake and fuel lines down the driver’s side frame rail
-Install my unbelievably expensive and over-thought wiring harness
-finish assembly of the H55 and split case
That should just about do it. Once the engine assembly goes back in, I’ll be able to finish up the 1,001 other miscellaneous tasks and may just have a running truck... ...in the next 9 months or so.
lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #239
I've got the air box to turbo intake plumbing done now. ...sort of.
The problem was the inlet location. It interfered with the air box outlet where it best lined up with the turbo inlet and forced the rubber hose to contort. I figured that wasn’t great because vibration would cause chaffing over time.
So I cut the inlet off.
I used a section from a spare air box to fill the hole.
The baffle on the inside was a PITA to get out but it finally relented.
I bent a piece of brass stock to act as a weld backer.
I’m going to pick up a RHD snorkel from @YoYoHo so the end result should look something like this:
...use your imagination.
The problem was the inlet location. It interfered with the air box outlet where it best lined up with the turbo inlet and forced the rubber hose to contort. I figured that wasn’t great because vibration would cause chaffing over time.
So I cut the inlet off.
I used a section from a spare air box to fill the hole.
The baffle on the inside was a PITA to get out but it finally relented.
I bent a piece of brass stock to act as a weld backer.
I’m going to pick up a RHD snorkel from @YoYoHo so the end result should look something like this:
...use your imagination.
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lelandEOD
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- Thread starter
- #240
I have to wait to get the snorkel in hand to finalize the placement of the new intake location but clearances will be tight no matter what.
I’m going to use a cobra head elbow to make the turn from the snorkel to the air cleaner intake.
I made a little bracket to hold the air filter warning switch too:
I think it looks pretty legit.
I’m going to use a cobra head elbow to make the turn from the snorkel to the air cleaner intake.
I made a little bracket to hold the air filter warning switch too:
I think it looks pretty legit.
