HZJ40 RestoMod v3.0 (New, improved, and now with fewer sparkplugs)

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I had to fix a few areas where I failed to properly scuff cured epoxy primer between coats which led to spots where the Rock-It Liner was peeling due to expansion, contraction, and flexing of the tub.

Lesson learned. Yay.



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I've gone full-retard on the electrical/convenience & luxuries at this point.

Rebuilt '92 4.0L 3FE engine
90A FJ80 alternator
4 speed H42 transmission

Group 34/78 AGM battery
Curt Triflex proportional trailer brake controller
7-pin trailer receptacle
Aux. trailer power with 30A breaker
Dakota Digital HDX instrument panel
-GPS, ambient air temp, compass,
-altimeter, fuel pressure and A/F ratio
Old Air Products Hurricane Air Conditioning system
4x4 indicator switch on transfer case
New ignition lock and matched keys
Late style front doors
Power locks and keyless entry
Power windows
LED headlight conversion (55/60W)
CREE LED fog lights
All Deutsch harness connectors
Hi/Lo headlight relays
Front seat heaters
12v and USB sockets in Tuffy console
Kenwood DMP stereo receiver w/handsfree/ bluetooth capability
Powered Kenwood 8" subwoofer
Front and rear Pioneer speakers
Rear 12v power outlet
Battery cut off switch
Aux. CREE LED rear backup/flood lights
Yaesu FT-8900R Quad-Band Ham transceiver
Integrated rechargeable Streamlight
Aux. 20 gal, Con-Ferr fuel tank with cab-switched Pollak valve
In-tank front and rear fuel pumps
Onboard ARB air compressor
In-cab air compressor controls
Warn 8274 winch
In-cab winch controls
 
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I'm hoping around a bit but I wanted to make sure I capture some of the work that went into the engine rebuild. FYI, rebuilding a 3FE with all Toyota/Aisin parts is not cheap or easy.


The head was decked; new valve seats, valve guides, valve seals, Toyota springs and Toyota exhaust valves were installed (the intake valves were reground and reused). I also tapped and plugged the infamous galley plug while I was at it.

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The long block was hot-tanked; all rotating parts were magnafluxed, mic'ed, polished, and balanced.
Exclusively Genuine Toyota or Aisin parts were used; main/rod bearings, cam bearings, cam gear, oil pump, rings. (it took a couple months just to find a T2 bearing for the #2 journal - incidentally, it came from a warehouse in the UAE). New wrist pins were installed and reamed to spec.

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I'm also upgrading to the late style -40 series doors. And they're getting central locking, keyless, and power windows (which has proven to be very difficult and costly).

Before I could get too far with the doors, I had to modify my '73 tub to work with the late style door stays and concoct a rubber boot arrangement that would pass the wiring loom into the doors:

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The driver's side door also needed a patch panel along the bottom. I hate body work.


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Both fuel tanks have an in-tank fuel pump that eliminates the need for a frame-mounted inline pump. A Carling switch on the dash selects the fuel supply by means of a Pollak valve that's tied into a 5-pin relay that provides power to the appropriate fuel pump.

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The front tank needed a recess box to clear the passenger seat bottom. Welding on fuel tanks is so much fun.

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Pressure testing for leaks before sending it out for powder coat:
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Here are a few shots of the cruise control module placement and the modified throttle body cam that was made to accommodate both the throttle and cruise cables.
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A power distribution box was used to replace the old FJ62 fusible links:

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And this is the relay box that houses the relays for the power windows, A/C, seat heaters, fuel pump, and fog lights.

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Thanks guys!

I'm now a stay at home dad and a grad student so my pace has slowed somewhat on the truck project. I've got to work up the motivation to get out there and do what I hate the most - body work. I really need to get those front doors installed.
 
I have a question if you have a minute, very nice looking truck by the way. I also have a 73 that originally did not have a roll bar and had the long rear seats. It now has a roll bar, and when I take it apart for paint I will be installing the gussets under the fender like you did. It now also has the short rear seats that fit back inside the roll bar. The seat mounting however is still in question. They are currently just bolted to the sheet metal with no reinforcement other than a large flat washer. Looking through your thread I noticed these guys:


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Did you fabricate these anchor points or were you able to source them from someone? Thanks!
 
I got some 2" channel, 14 gauge, cut the sides down and just welded some nuts to them for mine...then spot welded them in place.. the original one is the rusty piece
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My work is crap compared to lelandEOD, but i figured I would share one successful nibble!

:cheers:
 
I have a question if you have a minute, very nice looking truck by the way. I also have a 73 that originally did not have a roll bar and had the long rear seats. It now has a roll bar, and when I take it apart for paint I will be installing the gussets under the fender like you did. It now also has the short rear seats that fit back inside the roll bar. The seat mounting however is still in question. They are currently just bolted to the sheet metal with no reinforcement other than a large flat washer. Looking through your thread I noticed these guys:


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Did you fabricate these anchor points or were you able to source them from someone? Thanks!


I really don’t have a simple answer for you. My truck has a build date of September 1973 which must’ve been one of those weird periods on the production line where they were transitioning to the later style seats/rollbars. My tub did’t have the gussets for the factory roll bar but already had those weldments for the short seats in place. I really don’t know what my truck look like when it left the line because it had been severely modified by the time I bought it.
 

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