How to tell when UCA bushings go bad? (1 Viewer)

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Maybe a dumb question, but how can you tell when your upper control arm bushings go bad?

I am replacing my upper ball joints (which are completely shot) but they just won’t press out. I am pretty frustrated and considering now just going for entirely new UCAs since if I pull the current UCAs to bring to a shop I’d need an alignment anyway.
 
If the ball joints are shot then it’s very likely that the bushings are, too. But the easiest way to tell if the bushings are bad is to Jack the truck up and push/pull on the control arm to check for lateral/horizontal slop in the bushings (pry bar might help).
 
145k miles on your truck? I bet they are still ok. What tool are you using the press them out? The a-arms also come out pretty easy if you want to inspect the bushings while getting a better go at the ball joint.

 
145k miles on your truck? I bet they are still ok. What tool are you using the press them out? The a-arms also come out pretty easy if you want to inspect the bushings while getting a better go at the ball joint.



I am using the same tool as in the video, rented from Advance Auto Parts. Been soaking the UBJ in PB Blaster for two days and can’t get it to budge, even when cranking absoultely as hard as I can with my 25” breaker bar. I’m going to buy a torch and a pipe to slip over my breaker bar as a last resort before removing the arms to bring in to a shop with a bigger press.

I think I’ll just replace the UBJs for now, as I only get minor front-back movement with the UCA bushings and only when using a big pry bar.
 
Do you have any means to apply some heat?
Going to buy a torch head and big pipe later today. I have 3 torches back home but unfortunately I am 1000 miles away.
 
Do you have any means to apply some heat?

Torch worked like magic — didn’t even need a bigger breaker bar!

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Torch worked like magic — didn’t even need a bigger breaker bar!

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Yep,

Use the tool to put/keep pressure on it then apply heat. No need to use penetrating oil which is unlikely to help 'press fit' components anyway ....or wail on the part with a hammer which I see someone has done to your control arm. The ball joint for the lower control arms comes out more easily.

Good work, you persevered.
 
Yep,

Use the tool to put/keep pressure on it then apply heat. No need to use penetrating oil which is unlikely to help 'press fit' components anyway ....or wail on the part with a hammer which I see someone has done to your control arm. The ball joint for the lower control arms comes out more easily.

Good work, you persevered.

Thanks! The marks on the UCA are from when I got frustrated with the snap ring. Couldn’t find the correct “duck bill” style circlip pliers anywhere locally and eventually resorted to taking it out with my biggest pry bar. Not my finest decision perhaps but I had already sank several hours into it at that point and was desperate.... Should have slipped a piece of wood in there but hindsight is 20/20.
 
This is a timely thread for me, one of my uppers just started squawking. Will be ordering 555s upper and lower and will be sure to have a torch on hand. Thanks
 
Thanks! The marks on the UCA are from when I got frustrated with the snap ring. Couldn’t find the correct “duck bill” style circlip pliers anywhere locally and eventually resorted to taking it out with my biggest pry bar. Not my finest decision perhaps but I had already sank several hours into it at that point and was desperate.... Should have slipped a piece of wood in there but hindsight is 20/20.

It can by 'trying' at times, believe me.....I know. ;)

Good to walk away from it for a few minutes sometimes. Regroup, have a cold beer, mount another attack.

Dos Equis XX.jpg
 
I have a rusty northeast truck, I ALWAYS have an angle grinder handy

Sounds about right. This video gives a good idea of what’s required for the job.

 
The uca bushings could lets say be worn out by 20% and if so there is no test that i’m aware of to determine if they’ve failed because they are still working. If they’re 70% worn out I assume you could notice play when you pushed and pulled on the ball joint end of the uca but maybe not.

In my case, I bot replacement bushings and had a local front end shop press out the old and press in the new but my advice is to buy the new yota uca and save the time and effort that I donated to that project.
 
The uca bushings could lets say be worn out by 20% and if so there is no test that i’m aware of to determine if they’ve failed because they are still working. If they’re 70% worn out I assume you could notice play when you pushed and pulled on the ball joint end of the uca but maybe not.

In my case, I bot replacement bushings and had a local front end shop press out the old and press in the new but my advice is to buy the new yota uca and save the time and effort that I donated to that project.

I'm sure the bushings integrity will vary with use (one vehicle to another). I didn't feel any detectable 'movement' in mine prior to removing the control arms.

But once the arms are out...if you take a 3/8" extension (about 12" long), insert it into the sleeve that the bolt had been in and crank it around....you'll quickly see and feel if the rubber is softened or fatigued.

All of mine, except for the lower #2's were pretty 'tired'. The new ones....when installed were markedly more rigid.
 
Maybe a stupid question, but how do you know if your lower ball joints are failing? I know my uppers are pretty hosed (torn boots, squeaking loudly) and I am going to go with new arms vs ball joints/bushings but I am having a hard time stomaching the cost of all four at once. But I also don't want to do two alignments.
 
Put a pry bar up to the lower ball joint. If there's any movement, you're on borrowed time.

If it squeaks, it's bad. If the boots busted, it's bad.
 

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