How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

[zhloea]

Once the rack is installed (and approximately centered) bolt it down snug.
With the steering wheel centered, turn left and count the turns to full lock
Center steering wheel, now turn right to full lock.
Must be exactly the same.
I was off by 1 spline, and it is significant (maybe 90 degrees) at the steering wheel.

Basically the steering rack must be centered to the steering wheel (you can’t fix this with tie rod adjustment).

(Haven’t read the entire thread, but did my rack last year - OEM. I had my front diff out, so the job was easier than expected. The main aggravation was the steering box spline - getting to it and pulling old rack out. New rack had to be tilted 30 degrees or so don’t bolt down rack until spline is engaged).
Kevin.

Excellent!
1 .What should I do if the steering wheel is centered but the count is not the same? I am not starting to replace the rack yet, but I am thinking if I centered the wheel before I start then finally I found the count not equal, is this possible (because I don't know if my rack has been changed correctly before.)

2. what is the meaning of "New rack had to be tilted 30 degrees"? Does it mean the new rack had to be off-center 30 degrees for installation? If so, should we turn the wheel a little at the same time?

 

[zhloea]

Same for me.

Is this the spline we talked about here? If so, I think the u-joint of the column can not fully slip down until this spline engaged, right?

 

[flintknapper]

Is this the spline we talked about here? If so, I think the u-joint of the column can not fully slip down until this spline engaged, right?

View attachment 2606316

Correct. To engage it....I had to tilt (rotate) my steering rack about 25-30° toward the front of the vehicle to get the U-Joint to go on. Not because of any mismatching angles....but because of the length of the steering shaft.

So I left my steering rack unbolted until I first had this connection made. Once you get the U-joint on there (and fully seated) you can place the cross bolt in it (which rides against that groove in the steering rack splined shaft and it will be captured.

 

[zhloea]

Correct. To engage it....I had to tilt (rotate) my steering rack about 25-30° toward the front of the vehicle to get the U-Joint to go on. Not because of any mismatching angles....but because of the length of the steering shaft.

So I left my steering rack unbolted until I first had this connection made. Once you get the U-joint on there (and fully seated) you can place the cross bolt in it (which rides against that groove in the steering rack splined shaft and it will be captured.

So after "rotate my steering rack about 25-30°", technically, the wheel should be still in the center position because we did not touch it (if we make it at the center at the beginning), but since the rack is off-center 25-30 so the length of inner tire rod from both sides should not be exactly equal, is my understanding right?

what I want to ask actually is, do we need any adjustment of the steering wheel after this "rotate my steering rack about 25-30°"?

 

[flintknapper]

So after "rotate my steering rack about 25-30°", technically, the wheel should be still in the center position because we did not touch it (if we make it at the center at the beginning), but since the rack is off-center 25-30 so the length of inner tire rod from both sides should not be exactly equal, is my understanding right?

what I want to ask actually is, do we need any adjustment of the steering wheel after this "rotate my steering rack about 25-30°"?

No adjustments needed. If your steering wheel was centered (and left that way) before.... then it is close enough. Also the steering rack will have been brought to 'center' (equal amount of turns from left to right). I marked my splined shaft with a paint pen so I could count the revolutions.

All we are doing with the rack is rotating it (the whole thing, the body of it) either toward the front or back (whichever is easier) so you can get the U-joint to 'start' on the shaft. Then rotate it back (flat) to seat the U-joint and put the capture bolt in it. We aren't moving the unit left or right, or rotating the splined shaft. We are 'turning' the entire unit (rotating it) so that the splined shaft falls below the U-joint enough to get it started.

Alternately, some folks loosen various parts of the steering shaft itself (to shorten it) in order to get it on. I found it easier to just leave the mounting bolts out, and move the steering rack itself. If you are off a tiny bit when you have the vehicle realigned they will straighten your steering wheel.

 

[zhloea]

No adjustments needed. If your steering wheel was centered (and left that way) before.... then it is close enough. Also the steering rack will have been brought to 'center' (equal amount of turns from left to right). I marked my splined shaft with a paint pen so I could count the revolutions.

All we are doing with the rack is rotating it (the whole thing, the body of it) either toward the front or back (whichever is easier) so you can get the U-joint to 'start' on the shaft. Then rotate it back (flat) to seat the U-joint and put the capture bolt in it. We aren't moving the unit left or right, or rotating the splined shaft. We are 'turning' the entire unit (rotating it) so that the splined shaft falls below the U-joint enough to get it started.

Alternately, some folks loosen various parts of the steering shaft itself (to shorten it) in order to get it on. I found it easier to just leave the mounting bolts out, and move the steering rack itself. If you are off a tiny bit when you have the vehicle realigned they will straighten your steering wheel.

Thanks for the reply, I think I have enough info to do the work, something I still not clear, but I think I should ask when I get there.

I probably replace the upper and lower ball joint of the front suspension next week firstly without the tire rod replacement, by doing this first I don't need to take off my brand new outer tire rod again, you know it possibly hurt the boot accidentally.

 

[udubfl]

Read through this thread few times and went for it. Got it done over the weekend!

In regards to steering wheel not being centered. I did this too. I thought I had it centered when installing but after tightening up everything and went for a test drive, my steering wheel was at 10am stance when straight and with equal amount of turns to each way. Couldn’t live with this before heading over to a alignment shop. So, took the advice of loosing the two bolts on upper shaft near fire wall and this worked great for me. Maybe 1 hour of work to make adjustments and this is me taking it slow. I’m sure others are faster. Didn’t really understand this before getting into it so I took some pics.

Before I started, I jacked up the front wheels so I can move the steering wheel easier to turn and access the bolts. After accessing, I lowered the car and ensure the steering wheel was true straight (equal amount of turns).

1) take off bolt from steering rack and lower shaft (no pics cause you get this part)

2a) take off these two bolts

2b) notice this washer bracket thing (not sure what the name is but this becomes loose and slides up and down the spline)

3) Push up the washer bracket

4) Push up this piece up the spline. This will free up the steering shaft to pull out of the steering rack.

couple things to mention. My LC is a southern car so no rust and my splines and joints had grease already in it. So, sliding these parts were easy. I didn’t have to loosen the rack or anything else. I just unscrewed 3 bolts from the shaft, pulled it out of the steering rack, repositioned it to make it true center. Just had to repositioned it couple times. I was dreading this and it was easier than I thought.

Now I think of it, I would have done this part from the beginning when replacing the rack because I couldn’t get the shaft off the original rack due to no spacing to pull it and had to muster it a lot.

hope this helps as this thread has helped me tremendously.

 

[bamabrock]

I've looked but I'm seeing a different number for the 03-07 LX than the 03-07 TLC. What is the correct 03-07 LX470 steering gear assembly part number?

 

[zhloea]

I've looked but I'm seeing a different number for the 03-07 LX than the 03-07 TLC. What is the correct 03-07 LX470 steering gear assembly part number?

4425060100

 

[bamabrock]

4425060100

thanks. I kept seeing 44200-60120 and it was almost a grand.

 

[zhloea]

thanks. I kept seeing 44200-60120 and it was almost a grand.

This is a link from my local dealer, it is 666. I think the reason it is cheaper either becasue the online discount or might be this rack doesn't come with inner TRE (I am not sure, I will call them when I buy it).

Toyota Land Cruiser Gear assembly, power steering(for rack - 4425060100 | Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA

Gear assembly, power steering(for rack & pinion). Brakes, suspension. Toyota Land Cruiser. Genuine Toyota Part - 4425060100 (4420060100, 44250-60100). Ships from Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA

parts.rosevilletoyota.com

And if I search 44200-60120, there is really nothing about "Steering rack" come from the dealer website...

 

[gregnash]

Easiest way to get appropriate part number is to go to Partsouq.com and enter your VIN. Once it pulls up your vehicle then go through the schematics and grab the part number.. Believe the 60120 works for older trucks too ( like my 98)

 

[bamabrock]

This is a link from my local dealer, it is 666. I think the reason it is cheaper either becasue the online discount or might be this rack doesn't come with inner TRE (I am not sure, I will call them when I buy it).

Toyota Land Cruiser Gear assembly, power steering(for rack - 4425060100 | Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA

Gear assembly, power steering(for rack & pinion). Brakes, suspension. Toyota Land Cruiser. Genuine Toyota Part - 4425060100 (4420060100, 44250-60100). Ships from Roseville Toyota, Roseville CA

parts.rosevilletoyota.com

And if I search 44200-60120, there is really nothing about "Steering rack" come from the dealer website...

I'll gladly pay an extra $1 to keep the devil at bay!

McGeorge has it for $618

44250-60100 - Gear Assembly Power Ste Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Gear Assembly Power Ste (4425060100) For Your

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[zhloea]

I'll gladly pay an extra $1 to keep the devil at bay!

McGeorge has it for $618

44250-60100 - Gear Assembly Power Ste Ourisman Toyota Parts

Save Money On Your Gear Assembly Power Ste (4425060100) For Your

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

Does this McGeorge charge tax? If not, it will be a good deal to me, if yes, plus ship, then still expensive than my local dealer...

 

[gregnash]

Does this McGeorge charge tax? If not, it will be a good deal to me, if yes, plus ship, then still expensive than my local dealer...

I want to say the one time that I ordered from McGeorge they charged tax but that was a while ago. Is/would the difference in tax be that much that picking up locally would be ruled out? What about taking a print out of the McGeorge price to your local (Roseville) and seeing if they will price match?

 

[zhloea]

I want to say the one time that I ordered from McGeorge they charged tax but that was a while ago. Is/would the difference in tax be that much that picking up locally would be ruled out? What about taking a print out of the McGeorge price to your local (Roseville) and seeing if they will price match?

These badasses will not do price match, I asked once, they said we are Toyota for sure, but we belong to a different owner, so if you want to buy, buy it and can not do anything about this...

 

[PabloCruise]

it is 666...

 

[Beto Cruiser]

If anyone has done this and is looking to sell their old OEM rack, hit me up. Mine is off brand. If I can get a used OEM and rebuild kit for a good discount, I'll probably go that route..

 

[zhloea]

Read through this thread few times and went for it. Got it done over the weekend!

In regards to steering wheel not being centered. I did this too. I thought I had it centered when installing but after tightening up everything and went for a test drive, my steering wheel was at 10am stance when straight and with equal amount of turns to each way. Couldn’t live with this before heading over to a alignment shop. So, took the advice of loosing the two bolts on upper shaft near fire wall and this worked great for me. Maybe 1 hour of work to make adjustments and this is me taking it slow. I’m sure others are faster. Didn’t really understand this before getting into it so I took some pics.

Before I started, I jacked up the front wheels so I can move the steering wheel easier to turn and access the bolts. After accessing, I lowered the car and ensure the steering wheel was true straight (equal amount of turns).

1) take off bolt from steering rack and lower shaft (no pics cause you get this part)

2a) take off these two bolts
View attachment 2631141

2b) notice this washer bracket thing (not sure what the name is but this becomes loose and slides up and down the spline)View attachment 2631142

3) Push up the washer bracket

View attachment 2631143

4) Push up this piece up the spline. This will free up the steering shaft to pull out of the steering rack.

View attachment 2631144

couple things to mention. My LC is a southern car so no rust and my splines and joints had grease already in it. So, sliding these parts were easy. I didn’t have to loosen the rack or anything else. I just unscrewed 3 bolts from the shaft, pulled it out of the steering rack, repositioned it to make it true center. Just had to repositioned it couple times. I was dreading this and it was easier than I thought.

Now I think of it, I would have done this part from the beginning when replacing the rack because I couldn’t get the shaft off the original rack due to no spacing to pull it and had to muster it a lot.

hope this helps as this thread has helped me tremendously.

Thank you for this extremely detailed post, said " would have done this part from the beginning when replacing the rack", my understanding of this is:
1. center the steering wheel
2. isolate shaft from the up and lower connecting then remove the shaft from the car.
3. replace the rack, use some kind of measurement making sure the rack is centered, both ends are equal
4. reattach the shaft, because the shaft is totally isolated from the rack and steering wheel so it is possible to make it in any position which fits the centered rack.

Is my understanding correct?

I am sorry for having this long question because I will do it next weekend ...How long time it took totally?

 

[PabloCruise]

Thank you for this extremely detailed post, said " would have done this part from the beginning when replacing the rack", my understanding of this is:
1. center the steering wheel
2. isolate shaft from the up and lower connecting then remove the shaft from the car.
3. replace the rack, use some kind of measurement making sure the rack is centered, both ends are equal
4. reattach the shaft, because the shaft is totally isolated from the rack and steering wheel so it is possible to make it in any position which fits the centered rack.

Is my understanding correct?

I am sorry for having this long question because I will do it next weekend ...How long time it took totally?

That sounds about like it!

I did not remove the steering shaft.

If you look back on my posts, it took me several days to deal with cutting the old line set off once I gave up.

You can do this!

I like to ask a lot of questions before I begin a project as well. You have been reading in here since mid-Feb, so you have some idea what you are getting into. Anything you may run into has probably been posted in here already.

As my old Stats teacher used to say "Nothing to it, but to do it!".

You can do it!