How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

[Texasknowhow]

See post #369

I used both a 300 ft.lb. TQ wrench from HF, but the one that really got it torqued down was a regular (but higher quality) SK 150 ft.lb. TQ wrench and an extension I welded up

Going by this online calculator, I only needed to crank the 1/2" SK TQ wrench to 118ft.lbs.


The HF TQ wrench was a brand new replacement for one of my workers as his previous one wouldn't click.

My calibration cube only works up to 147 ft.lbs., so I was only able to check the smaller SK TQ wrench and trusted the extension combo more than the big HF wrench

What is the measurement on your extension, center to center on the welded extensions pieces...??? Thanks for posting about the extension of the smaller caliber TQ wrench. Clay

 

[dioscw]

Thanks for the step by step guide, I did this today and I didn't strip a single screw. I used a DeWalt tip with a DeWalt clutch and a electric screwdriver then a 1/4 socket and a rachet. All 7 screws where been reusable but I already have new Toyota screws. Again thanks a lot.

 

[mtrdud]

I'm about to do this job and I have a couple of questions.
Has anybody loosened their crank bolt with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket?

Is a chain wrench necessary to hold the crank pulley when I torque the crank bolt back on?

Thanks

 

[dioscw]

I'm about to do this job and I have a couple of questions.
Has anybody loosened their crank bolt with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket?

Is a chain wrench necessary to hold the crank pulley when I torque the crank bolt back on?

Thanks

You can loose the bolt with a 1/2 breaker bar but if you hold the pulley with any sort of tool, if you use the starter it will bent the breaker bar where the socket attach, to much torque. If you are going to loose the bolt with a breaker bar have a cheater bar on hand.

To torque the bold is necessary to hold the pulley with the method of your choice, I chose to make a special tool with a steel sheet I didn't liked to hold the pulley from the outside, it has rubber in the middle and it could break.

Best of luck it's not difficult but you will appreciate the space if you choose to remove the radiator.

Here is a photo of a "special tool" to hold the crankshaft pulley.

Be sure to use good quality and at least grade 8 screws for any special tool that you use in the crankshaft pulley.

 

[mtrdud]

I remember reading your post earlier and the special tool you made. What size torque wrench is that attached to that "extension" you fabricated? Also using that how did you figure the torque?

 

[dioscw]

I remember reading your post earlier and the special tool you made. What size torque wrench is that attached to that "extension" you fabricated? Also using that how did you figure the torque?

That post that you are referring wasn't mine, I didn't use any torque wrench, I didn't have one that goes that high reading and where I live renting tools is not a option.

 

[mtrdud]

I also remember reading that some have used FIPG along with the gasket on the oil pump cover. For those that have did you put the bead on the cover, the oil pump side, or both?

 

[mtrdud]

Anybody ?

 

[dioscw]

Anybody ?

To hold the gasket in place I used dielectric grease in 4 or 5 points.

 

[mtrdud]

Ok. I don't have a FSM as of yet and I'm trying to get this big oil leak taken care of. Does the FSM call for any FIPG?
Thanks

 

[dioscw]

Ok. I don't have a FSM as of yet and I'm trying to get this big oil leak taken care of. Does the FSM call for any FIPG?
Thanks

No, for the oil pump cover it only said that you put a new gasket.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

What is the measurement on your extension, center to center on the welded extensions pieces...??? Thanks for posting about the extension of the smaller caliber TQ wrench. Clay

Sorry, I just realized I didn't post the calculator link in my previous post

http://www.freeinfostuff.com/TorqueExtension/TorqueExtension.htm

Length of my TQ Wrench = 17"

Extension Length = 27"

Desired Torque Spec = 304ft.lbs.

Set Wrench to = 117.5ft.lbs.

 

[Mtbcoach]

I'm doing this now also, this thread is a great tool to get it done. The tip for getting the screws out worked perfectly, even for the one that had the phillips grooves pre-stripped for me.

The one observation I have is why so few use the "socket method" to remove the crank pulley bolt. I literally takes minutes to do, did it solo and made removal relatively easy.

Otherwise, time to put it all back together, thanks for the thread...

 

[dioscw]

I'm doing this now also, this thread is a great tool to get it done. The tip for getting the screws out worked perfectly, even for the one that had the phillips grooves pre-stripped for me.

The one observation I have is why so few use the "socket method" to remove the crank pulley bolt. I literally takes minutes to do, did it solo and made removal relatively easy.

Otherwise, time to put it all back together, thanks for the thread...

In my case I have manual transmission so is not an option.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Ok. I don't have a FSM as of yet and I'm trying to get this big oil leak taken care of. Does the FSM call for any FIPG?
Thanks

What Year? I have the 96 that Birfmark put together. Do a search for it with my name and it'll pop up. You should be able to use it for this job regardless of year as long as it a 1FZ.

 

[mtrdud]

The torque wrench extension is what I was looking for too. Thanks

 

[mtrdud]

1997. Yes sir I will search it up.

Thanks

 

[mtrdud]

Well I'm getting ready to take things apart to do this job. I got everything degreased and removed the skid pan below the crank pulley. I can clearly see that the leak is coming from the oil pump seal and not the crank seal. I have them both coming in my order but my question is:

Should I replace the crank seal anyway since I will have the pulley off or leave it alone?

Thanks

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Well I'm getting ready to take things apart to do this job. I got everything degreased and removed the skid pan below the crank pulley. I can clearly see that the leak is coming from the oil pump seal and not the crank seal. I have them both coming in my order but my question is:

Should I replace the crank seal anyway since I will have the pulley off or leave it alone?

Thanks

You might as well

Mine wasn't leaking either, but since I was already there, I just did it anyways

 

[mtrdud]

Yeah I just got everything apart and I removed the crank seal too. I'm now waiting on parts to put it all back together.

I would suggest as somebody states here in an earlier post to put the #3 Phillips tip in the oil pump screw and tap it in firmly with a hammer. This worked well with the socket and small ratchet. I didn't strip a single screw.