How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (3 Viewers)

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I used a tape covered screw driver to pry my crankshaft seal out as well and FWIW, it took a bit more force to pry out than I was anticipating. I had a pretty big screw driver and was applying enough force to flex the screw driver shaft pretty good.
 
Alright guys, I got the video footage all edited and published on my Youtube channel. See the video on how to do these oil leak repairs here: http://youtu.be/4IT5T647xII

I really leveraged the thread here and most of the "tricks" folks have come up with here, I tested and used in the video. So hats off to you guys and I hope the video helps those folks who are visual learners! haha

Take care, Clay
 
Dude, that's a great job. Man, that seventh screw was a real jerk, lol. I got lucky, the Milwaukee got all mine out without a hitch. Start working us up one of these vids for the rear main seal job, looks like you're ready for that one too. :D

:beer:
Rookie2
 
Thanks Rookie2. I edited out so much footage where we worked to get #7 out, but it was boring at best for most folks to watch. Getting that one out easily doubled our time on the repair. Glad yours all came out without too much trouble. That little Milwaukee impact driver is a really neat tool. Thanks for watching the video. C
 
Battled the crank bolt for 5 hours... No luck...

1) Starter bump method = Stalled the starter
2) 14mm deep socket on TC bolt head = 14mm socket broken
3) Chain wrapped around M8x1.25 bolt on Crank pulley = Bent M8 bolt

Ended up just drinking my 12 pack instead.

I'm scared to use heat on the crank bolt. Should I be? I was using a 6ft long piece of .120" wall DOM tubing, and it was just twisting the motor mounts, scared to go anymore... then it ended up breaking things (Socket and bolt when using chain).

Was using 1/2" drive stuff... Will get some bigger tools I guess.
 
I'm not sure if my success is do to a 'cooler head prevailing' or the PB blaster but when I run into a stuck bolt or nut I spray it with PB blaster overnight then give it another try the next day. If you can spray it a few times before bed it seems to help.
 
Alright guys, I got the video footage all edited and published on my Youtube channel. See the video on how to do these oil leak repairs here: http://youtu.be/4IT5T647xII

I really leveraged the thread here and most of the "tricks" folks have come up with here, I tested and used in the video. So hats off to you guys and I hope the video helps those folks who are visual learners! haha

Take care, Clay


Awesome video. I think this thread and your video have given me the confidence to fix my oil leak. Just worried about stripping/shearing screws. Think PB blaster might help them come out easier? I saw where someone else mentioned this but not sure what the results were.
 
Awesome video. I think this thread and your video have given me the confidence to fix my oil leak. Just worried about stripping/shearing screws. Think PB blaster might help them come out easier? I saw where someone else mentioned this but not sure what the results were.

Not sure how much it would help either, but I'm sure it can't hurt. I'm planning on hitting them with some for a few days before also. Every little bit helps I'd say
 
Awesome video. I think this thread and your video have given me the confidence to fix my oil leak. Just worried about stripping/shearing screws. Think PB blaster might help them come out easier? I saw where someone else mentioned this but not sure what the results were.

I don't think it would hurt one bit to shoot them with PB blaster. I read on this thread of folks using heat as well. I was concerned with all the oil and didn't use an open flame. Let us know how the repair goes! Clay
 
Battled the crank bolt for 5 hours... No luck...

1) Starter bump method = Stalled the starter
2) 14mm deep socket on TC bolt head = 14mm socket broken
3) Chain wrapped around M8x1.25 bolt on Crank pulley = Bent M8 bolt

Ended up just drinking my 12 pack instead.

I'm scared to use heat on the crank bolt. Should I be? I was using a 6ft long piece of .120" wall DOM tubing, and it was just twisting the motor mounts, scared to go anymore... then it ended up breaking things (Socket and bolt when using chain).

Was using 1/2" drive stuff... Will get some bigger tools I guess.

Not suprised 1 and 3 didn't work, but I'm suprised the deep socket on the TC bolt didn't work. Try a impact socket, instead of a regular socket. FWIW, I used PB blaster on mine, the night before. You're turning it the right way..?
 
Love PB Blaster, I didn't use it though... I'll start spraying for a few days and try again this weekend, I think.

Since I have a new crank seal, I think using some heat will be OK...

Anyone have an idea on where to rent a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs in San Diego?
 
Anyone have an idea on where to rent a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs in San Diego?

Per their website, you can order loaner tool #25688 from Autozone.com and then return it at a local store. 600 ft-lbf rating, 3/4" drive.
 
Per their website, you can order loaner tool #25688 from Autozone.com and then return it at a local store. 600 ft-lbf rating, 3/4" drive.

Tried and was denied at three different stores and there online help line......
 
Battled the crank bolt for 5 hours... No luck...

1) Starter bump method = Stalled the starter
2) 14mm deep socket on TC bolt head = 14mm socket broken
3) Chain wrapped around M8x1.25 bolt on Crank pulley = Bent M8 bolt

Ended up just drinking my 12 pack instead.

I'm scared to use heat on the crank bolt. Should I be? I was using a 6ft long piece of .120" wall DOM tubing, and it was just twisting the motor mounts, scared to go anymore... then it ended up breaking things (Socket and bolt when using chain).

Was using 1/2" drive stuff... Will get some bigger tools I guess.

My stater stalled the first crank too, but put a battery charger on jump start mode to the LC and broke the bolt loose with one crank.

I used 1/2 inch socket and bar, but it was Snap-on brand. The cheep one I had just snapped the bar head.
 
Great How-to Video, Clay!

Thank you very much for the video, Clay. I can't say enough good things about this how-to video so I can't wait to do this and get rid of the oil leak.


Alright guys, I got the video footage all edited and published on my Youtube channel. See the video on how to do these oil leak repairs here: http://youtu.be/4IT5T647xII

I really leveraged the thread here and most of the "tricks" folks have come up with here, I tested and used in the video. So hats off to you guys and I hope the video helps those folks who are visual learners! haha

Take care, Clay
 
Per their website, you can order loaner tool #25688 from Autozone.com and then return it at a local store. 600 ft-lbf rating, 3/4" drive.

Tried and was denied at three different stores and there online help line......

When I talked to the store, they were unknowledgeable about their online rental program. Here's the email clarification I received from website customer service:
AutoZone said:
[FONT=&quot]This item can only be obtained from our vendor. You may order it online and return it to your closest AutoZone store in your area.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Here's a better link to explain online rental than the one posted previously: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jsp
[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
 
@94braassyota, thx for the complement on the video. Was hoping to inspire a few guys who were very close to taking this on. Besides that one screw issue, which I worked through, the repairs are very satisfying to perform. I love not worrying about my garage floor and driveway anymore. That little front skid plate is still very clean and oil free after 3+ weeks! Thx again. Clay
 
In post # 218 Mulisha states "MAKE SURE THE HALF MOON IS AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION WHEN YOU TAKE THE CRANK PULLEY OFF". Is he referring to the key in the crank? How do you tell where the key is before you pull the pulley off, or asking it another way, should we align the pulley to some mark before we pull it?

Guys need some help, I did not have the HALF MOON PIN on my crankshaft, do I need to get one from Toyota,can i drive for 2 days with out it and then tear up again and get a new seal and pin?:o


I finally found the HALF MOON PIN it was in the bottom of my plate after I cleaned the oil, I was getting worry I would damage something on the engine!

It was easier then I thought, however I should have read about the HALF MOON PIN.
My crankshaft Bolt was easy and the 7 screws were easy to take off, however I only have 137k miles I do not know if that makes a difference!

Thanks to everybody and the great VIDEO you guys made it easy on me!
 
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Whew!, glad you found the keyway. I was going to comment that it was probably there somewhere. The bolt alone won't keep the balancer and pulleys from slipping on the shaft and will cause damage. Glad you got through the repairs! Also glad the video was helpful. Clay
 

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