I used a tape covered screw driver to pry my crankshaft seal out as well and FWIW, it took a bit more force to pry out than I was anticipating. I had a pretty big screw driver and was applying enough force to flex the screw driver shaft pretty good.
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Alright guys, I got the video footage all edited and published on my Youtube channel. See the video on how to do these oil leak repairs here: http://youtu.be/4IT5T647xII
I really leveraged the thread here and most of the "tricks" folks have come up with here, I tested and used in the video. So hats off to you guys and I hope the video helps those folks who are visual learners! haha
Take care, Clay
Awesome video. I think this thread and your video have given me the confidence to fix my oil leak. Just worried about stripping/shearing screws. Think PB blaster might help them come out easier? I saw where someone else mentioned this but not sure what the results were.
Awesome video. I think this thread and your video have given me the confidence to fix my oil leak. Just worried about stripping/shearing screws. Think PB blaster might help them come out easier? I saw where someone else mentioned this but not sure what the results were.
Battled the crank bolt for 5 hours... No luck...
1) Starter bump method = Stalled the starter
2) 14mm deep socket on TC bolt head = 14mm socket broken
3) Chain wrapped around M8x1.25 bolt on Crank pulley = Bent M8 bolt
Ended up just drinking my 12 pack instead.
I'm scared to use heat on the crank bolt. Should I be? I was using a 6ft long piece of .120" wall DOM tubing, and it was just twisting the motor mounts, scared to go anymore... then it ended up breaking things (Socket and bolt when using chain).
Was using 1/2" drive stuff... Will get some bigger tools I guess.
Anyone have an idea on where to rent a torque wrench that goes up to 300ft-lbs in San Diego?
Per their website, you can order loaner tool #25688 from Autozone.com and then return it at a local store. 600 ft-lbf rating, 3/4" drive.
Battled the crank bolt for 5 hours... No luck...
1) Starter bump method = Stalled the starter
2) 14mm deep socket on TC bolt head = 14mm socket broken
3) Chain wrapped around M8x1.25 bolt on Crank pulley = Bent M8 bolt
Ended up just drinking my 12 pack instead.
I'm scared to use heat on the crank bolt. Should I be? I was using a 6ft long piece of .120" wall DOM tubing, and it was just twisting the motor mounts, scared to go anymore... then it ended up breaking things (Socket and bolt when using chain).
Was using 1/2" drive stuff... Will get some bigger tools I guess.
Alright guys, I got the video footage all edited and published on my Youtube channel. See the video on how to do these oil leak repairs here: http://youtu.be/4IT5T647xII
I really leveraged the thread here and most of the "tricks" folks have come up with here, I tested and used in the video. So hats off to you guys and I hope the video helps those folks who are visual learners! haha
Take care, Clay
Per their website, you can order loaner tool #25688 from Autozone.com and then return it at a local store. 600 ft-lbf rating, 3/4" drive.
Tried and was denied at three different stores and there online help line......
[FONT="] [/FONT]Here's a better link to explain online rental than the one posted previously: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/inourstores/lat/latLanding.jspAutoZone said:[FONT="]This item can only be obtained from our vendor. You may order it online and return it to your closest AutoZone store in your area.[/FONT]
In post # 218 Mulisha states "MAKE SURE THE HALF MOON IS AT THE 12 O'CLOCK POSITION WHEN YOU TAKE THE CRANK PULLEY OFF". Is he referring to the key in the crank? How do you tell where the key is before you pull the pulley off, or asking it another way, should we align the pulley to some mark before we pull it?