How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zane
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I just did these oil leak fixes this past Sunday. This thread was great for knowledge, tips and just moral support. I made video recordings of all the major steps and I'm compiling that for my YouTube Channel. Will post the link here as well. I did put a small drop of Blue Locktight on the threads of the 7 new screws going back together.
Got all my parts today but I won't have time to put it back together for a few days. I will be glad to get this done. My oil pump seal was leaking pretty bad. It's really not that bad of a job. Compared to doing the head gaskets on my 3VZE 4rumner this ain't bad at all.
Agreed. If you have the right tools going in, it's not bad at all. The long impact socket on the torque converter method was the difference maker for me. Without that, it would have been a looong weekend. Now if someone would just work through all the ins and outs of the rear main seal job, I'd be leak free...
ElPolloBlanco
SILVER Star
You think this will work to bust loose the crank bolt and to torque it back down?
Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD
Fat-fingered on my iPhone using IH8MUD
ElPolloBlanco
SILVER Star
No fipg. The seal will swell to size once in place.
Used 1/2" breaker with socket and starter. No problems.
14mm deep socket on flywheel bolt through trans plastic inspection hole works.
Used 1/2" breaker with socket and starter. No problems.
14mm deep socket on flywheel bolt through trans plastic inspection hole works.
Then it's easy just block the tires with it in 5th gear with the handbrake applied HARD. Maybe have a helper stand on the brake pedal while you torque that thing
After cleaning the screw holes well I used low strength thread locker (purple) on new OEM Phillips head screws. No leaks two years later.
Nice TQ wrench
Here is my experience on doing this a few weeks ago:
The Bad:
- Everything went find until I needed to put the crank pulley back on. I had left the woodruff key in the crankshaft and I just went to put the pulley on. I got the alignment a little off and the when I put the crank pulley on it just spun on the shaft. I took it back off and my woodruff key was nowhere to be found. I searched on the ground, pulley etc. still no luck. The only other place would be in the crank behind the seal. I'm a newb at this stuff so I was pretty worried as if that thing fell into the upper oil pan I would have no idea on how to get it out. Well I pulled my brand new crank seal ($20 down the drain) and got a mirror and there it was sitting up against my timing chain. I got a magnet puller and got a hold of it and was super relieved. Had to pay $20 for a new seal but luckily the dealer had it in stock but at that point I didn't care as that was cheap.
The Good:
- The bump method worked like a charm.
- No bolts got stripped they all came out nice the hammering method to set the phillips head on the bolt worked great.
- using a 2" pvc end cap works awesome on putting the crankseal back in.
- Autozone rents a 100-600 3/4 torque wrench for free. None of them had it in my area but they can order it in for free at no cost. You just have to show them that it is online and in their rent a tool program and then they can order it in. You have to pay $300 for it but you get it all back when you return it. Mine had never been used before it was brand new.
- Making a tool to hook the bolts onto the crank pulley in the 8mm x 1.25 holes worked awesome to hold it there while you torque it down.
- Replaced all 3 belts as they had grooves in them and amazingly the belts were only about $20 for all 3 from toyota.
No leaks at all and it was leaking really bad my gasket just crumpled off. Did the whole axle rebuild the week before so def. had to put some time into it as the PO didn't hardly do any PM on it.
The Bad:
- Everything went find until I needed to put the crank pulley back on. I had left the woodruff key in the crankshaft and I just went to put the pulley on. I got the alignment a little off and the when I put the crank pulley on it just spun on the shaft. I took it back off and my woodruff key was nowhere to be found. I searched on the ground, pulley etc. still no luck. The only other place would be in the crank behind the seal. I'm a newb at this stuff so I was pretty worried as if that thing fell into the upper oil pan I would have no idea on how to get it out. Well I pulled my brand new crank seal ($20 down the drain) and got a mirror and there it was sitting up against my timing chain. I got a magnet puller and got a hold of it and was super relieved. Had to pay $20 for a new seal but luckily the dealer had it in stock but at that point I didn't care as that was cheap.
The Good:
- The bump method worked like a charm.
- No bolts got stripped they all came out nice the hammering method to set the phillips head on the bolt worked great.
- using a 2" pvc end cap works awesome on putting the crankseal back in.
- Autozone rents a 100-600 3/4 torque wrench for free. None of them had it in my area but they can order it in for free at no cost. You just have to show them that it is online and in their rent a tool program and then they can order it in. You have to pay $300 for it but you get it all back when you return it. Mine had never been used before it was brand new.
- Making a tool to hook the bolts onto the crank pulley in the 8mm x 1.25 holes worked awesome to hold it there while you torque it down.
- Replaced all 3 belts as they had grooves in them and amazingly the belts were only about $20 for all 3 from toyota.
No leaks at all and it was leaking really bad my gasket just crumpled off. Did the whole axle rebuild the week before so def. had to put some time into it as the PO didn't hardly do any PM on it.
@Shadowbiker, nice work man. I just did this work as well. How tough was the axle rebuild compared to this job? Thanks in advance. Clay
The front axle took more time and was a lot messier but it isn't any harder glad I did mine as the driver side birf has very little grease left. I noticed the rubber seal on the back of the knuckle had been put on with the wrong side out. So I sure that didn't help
I completed this task this past Saturday and all of the tips in this thread were invaluable so thank you to everyone who contributed.
A couple of notes form my experience:
I was concerned about the starter bump method doing damage if anything let go so I used the 14mm bolt of the flywheel method to keep the crank from turning and it worked beautifully for both loosening and tightening the crank bolt.
I purchased a 3/4 breaker, 3/4 impact set and the 3/4 torque wrench from harbor freight, with the 20% off coupon for the torque wrench I was out the door for $120ish.
I had looked at buying a 300-600ft. lb torque wrench and found one from tool depot for ~$280 but realized this is probably the only task I have for a 304 ft lb. bolt so looked for a cheaper route. I took a gamble with the HF torque wrench which is rated for 50-300 ft. lbs. +/- 4% and I had it calibrated at a local shop. My wrench came out at the high end of the range, 300Ft. lbs. setting = 310 actual Ft.. Lbs. applied so I was in business.
Removing the crank bolt was easy, put the 30mm socket on the breaker bar, put my jack handle over the breaker bar and it loosened with very little effort.
I was able to remove all 7 Phillips screws out without stripping any. I applied heat for 45 seconds with a torch, then hammered the bit into the screw head. I did not find that light taps worked well and the bit cammed out on the first two attempts. I grabbed a 2.5 lb sledge and was able to give solid smacks on the bit which seated the bit so well that for two screws I had to stick the screw in my vise to retrieve the bit.
I used a standard 3/8 drive ratchet with a 1/4 inch socket to turn the screws. I found it hard to keep the ratchet flat and apply torque using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
I replaced the screws with the Torx head bolts, if this job gets tackled again I shouldn't have any problems removing them. I coated the oil pump seal with DC55 before installing and I haven't seen any leakage from the pump, I had noticed that others had seen a bit of seeping after the initial installation when installing the seal dry or with a bit of motor oil.
Cardboard or plywood to protect the radiator is a very good thing, if I had not done that I would have definitely bent a few fins or worse.
I didn't find the job too hard, removing the screws is a pain, I took my time and it took around an hour to get them all out. Cleaning up the engine took up a bunch of time and I also took the opportunity to change the oil and filter and the air filter. All in all it took around 5 hours to get the job done.
A couple of notes form my experience:
I was concerned about the starter bump method doing damage if anything let go so I used the 14mm bolt of the flywheel method to keep the crank from turning and it worked beautifully for both loosening and tightening the crank bolt.
I purchased a 3/4 breaker, 3/4 impact set and the 3/4 torque wrench from harbor freight, with the 20% off coupon for the torque wrench I was out the door for $120ish.
I had looked at buying a 300-600ft. lb torque wrench and found one from tool depot for ~$280 but realized this is probably the only task I have for a 304 ft lb. bolt so looked for a cheaper route. I took a gamble with the HF torque wrench which is rated for 50-300 ft. lbs. +/- 4% and I had it calibrated at a local shop. My wrench came out at the high end of the range, 300Ft. lbs. setting = 310 actual Ft.. Lbs. applied so I was in business.
Removing the crank bolt was easy, put the 30mm socket on the breaker bar, put my jack handle over the breaker bar and it loosened with very little effort.
I was able to remove all 7 Phillips screws out without stripping any. I applied heat for 45 seconds with a torch, then hammered the bit into the screw head. I did not find that light taps worked well and the bit cammed out on the first two attempts. I grabbed a 2.5 lb sledge and was able to give solid smacks on the bit which seated the bit so well that for two screws I had to stick the screw in my vise to retrieve the bit.
I used a standard 3/8 drive ratchet with a 1/4 inch socket to turn the screws. I found it hard to keep the ratchet flat and apply torque using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
I replaced the screws with the Torx head bolts, if this job gets tackled again I shouldn't have any problems removing them. I coated the oil pump seal with DC55 before installing and I haven't seen any leakage from the pump, I had noticed that others had seen a bit of seeping after the initial installation when installing the seal dry or with a bit of motor oil.
Cardboard or plywood to protect the radiator is a very good thing, if I had not done that I would have definitely bent a few fins or worse.
I didn't find the job too hard, removing the screws is a pain, I took my time and it took around an hour to get them all out. Cleaning up the engine took up a bunch of time and I also took the opportunity to change the oil and filter and the air filter. All in all it took around 5 hours to get the job done.
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Use a flat screw driver but wrapped in electric tape, also put a rag where the screw driver touch the crankshaft. The seal is easy to remove and the screw driver method is on the FSM.
Thanks William, got it, just had to sit back with a #6 and look at it for a moment. The seal was pretty old and dry once I got it moving it eased out.
Interesting experience, when I went to bump the starter to loosen the crank bolt it snapped my breaker bar, It was replaced on warrenty and instead I blocked the flywheel with the 14 m socket trick and used a pipe on the breaker, the steady pressure (instead of the sudden force of the starter)loosened the bolt easily.
Interesting experience, when I went to bump the starter to loosen the crank bolt it snapped my breaker bar, It was replaced on warrenty and instead I blocked the flywheel with the 14 m socket trick and used a pipe on the breaker, the steady pressure (instead of the sudden force of the starter)loosened the bolt easily.
Now if someone would just work through all the ins and outs of the rear main seal job, I'd be leak free...
Amen brother... I think my real seal may be leaking as well...
Advance has one. I was in Harbour Freight a couple of weeks ago and they had one real cheap.
