Got mine done yesterday
I'm at 307,3xx miles and all 7 screws came out without stripping
One was being a little bitch due to the fact that it was the only one being bathed with oil (note where the seal was busted)
I'd like to thank whoever it was that suggested using a mini torch
I just heated each screw up for about 40 seconds, tapped the #3 bit into place with a hammer and cracked each one of them loose with a 1/4 drive ratchet
After breaking each one of them loose, I re-tightened them until all were loose to avoid putting unwanted strain on the ones that were still tight.
The last one that was being a bitch had to be heated numerous times and tapped hard, but it eventually cracked
Tools of the trade
I welded up this crank holding tool using a scrap bar and a lawnmower blade and it worked great
I also welded up a torque wrench extension so I could use a regular Tq wrench set to only 118ft.lbs.
One of my workers had a brand new HF 300ft.lb. Tq wrench (one they replaced because the first one wouldn't click) and although it's rated up to 300, the adjuster cranked all the way to 320
With the crank holding tool braced against my foot, I got a solid click out of the HF Tq wrench set to the max
Then I switched over to the SK Tq wrench with the extension set for 304ft.lbs. and was able to get a good 1/4 turn before clicking
Now, I trust the SK's calibration over the HF Tq wrench any day, but being this was the first time using the extension, I figure I'd go a little tighter, so I bumped up the extension setting for 320 and it went about another 1/4 turn before clicking and I just called it good
While I was down there, I replaced the crank seal, all 3 belts, the idler and A/C tensioner
I think the hardest part was the damn fan shroud.
Since I have dual batts, I had to pull it along with the tray in order to slide the shroud out.
And getting it reset while avoiding breakage for either the shroud or the plastic radiator nipple was a pita.
