How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
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I used a large flat bladed screwdriver and covered the end in electrical tape, then from above pushed the screwdriver tip into the seal bottom edge and pried it out. To install the new seal I used a PVC pipe section from Home Depot, and to make sure it was going to fit I had the new seal in my pocket then hunted around until I found the pipe joint size that fit the rim of the seal correctly. The tool in the top photo was used to hold the crank pulley when tightening up the crank pulley bolt.
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Hmm, so you just pushed the screw driver in between the back edge of the crank seal where it seats against the crank housing, and she pried right out?
Just thought I'd add.. I just pulled all the screws out in under 30 seconds..
IF you pull the fan shroud, the Milwaukee M12 impact fits with a 1" bit with room to spare. Just used a PH-3 Milwaukee 'Shockwave' bit. Didn't even tap the bit in... they came right out without so much as a stutter. I love that impact, it has made all the difference working on this truck. Enough oomph to get most bolts off, if not, just break them loose with a ratchet. So far the only bolts it hasn't been able to take out were the thermostat housing bolts and the throttle body bolts. Everything else has been zipped out without an issue. 2 extensions and a universal joint (for #6) and all the sparkplugs came out in under 30 seconds start to finish (including #6). Even took the PHH metal line top-bolt off..
IF you pull the fan shroud, the Milwaukee M12 impact fits with a 1" bit with room to spare. Just used a PH-3 Milwaukee 'Shockwave' bit. Didn't even tap the bit in... they came right out without so much as a stutter. I love that impact, it has made all the difference working on this truck. Enough oomph to get most bolts off, if not, just break them loose with a ratchet. So far the only bolts it hasn't been able to take out were the thermostat housing bolts and the throttle body bolts. Everything else has been zipped out without an issue. 2 extensions and a universal joint (for #6) and all the sparkplugs came out in under 30 seconds start to finish (including #6). Even took the PHH metal line top-bolt off..
Doh, forgot to add. Should I put blue loctite or antiseize on the replacement (aftermarket torx) screws?
I used antisieze when I did both 80's.
I put small dabs of FIPG on the o-ring to hold it in place on the corners and small dabs around the bolt holes.. I keep seeing conflicting reports.. should I lay it on there the entire sealing surface?
Many just use a small dab of Vasoline or MP grease, just enough to hold it in place while you get the cover on and fasteners tightened. I didn't use any but was careful on reassembly. FSM doesn't mention apply any thing.
I actually discovered a way to stop the leak in 30 secs. Throw a couple of handfulls of cement powder up at the leak, start the truck so it blows the excess off and let it set overnight (I did wash it down a couple of days prior to get rid of the built up gunk. Wash the tie rods and diff housing with gentle pressure so you don't splash the leak area. I was doubtfull it would work but I did a 400km trip the next day and not one drop. It used to drip after a 5 min drive to work.
That's quite an amazing stop-gap measure! Unfortunately, that's all it is, and will have to be fixed eventually! Might save quite a few people here some trouble for small leaks, though.
I figured that it didn't really leak until I washed away all the dust and gunk so maybe I could throw some fine dust back up there and all I had was some cement powder.
Leak free!
Following this thread and through plenty of 80-tech ih8mud reading, I am finally leak free
It's been a long time coming. Since I bought her back in '01 there has always been some slow oozing oil leak coming from somewhere, and if I didn't stay on it, the undercarriage would end up coated in oil & grime, and then start to drip onto the driveway. Recently the oil pump cover started leaking pretty steadily, so it motivated me to chase it all down. Two weeks ago I cleaned up everything as best I could with degreaser, toothbrushes, zillions of shop towels, pressure washer, fingers, toothpicks, whatever to get the gunk out of all the crevices. And I found my leaks.
Pan arch is ok. Oil pan gasket is ok. PCV valve is new and leak free along with an oil catch can, as is the valve cover gasket. What was leaking was the dizzy o-ring, the oil pump cover gasket, the crank seal, and a couple of other little doodads I had not expected: oil level sensor gasket, crank position sensor, and the "galley plug" metal seal (the hex nut plug in front of the CPS). Rather than monkeying around with FIPG and trying to seal the CPS (I've read of unsuccessful attempts at this) I bit the bullet and ordered a new one from my local Toyota ($150).
Note that all of the old gaskets were brittle and crumbled upon removal.
So all cleaned up, sealed up, crank bolt torqued to 300+, refilled with Mobil 1 0-40w with an OEM filter, and running new OEM belts she purrs and has good oil pressure. The oil pump cover leaked/oozed from the bottom for 2 days, but once the new gasket swelled up it has been leak free.
Hope this helps anyone chasing down leaks. And a huge thanks to this thread.
i love mud
ps breaking the crank bolt loose is an adventure. i tried to tie down the pulley using rope to the frame but couldn't get it to grab, so I used the bump-start method and she broke free so easily I was kicking myself for wasting an hour trying other gentler methods. Bump start ftw. To re-torque I made a tool to bolt into the pulley, similar to other tools seen in this thread. All this done in one 7 hour wrenching session, with a couple of #6's along the way
...but I spent a good hour trying to rope down the crank pulley, another hour looking for metal and fabbing a tool to bolt into the crank pulley (I ended up repurposing a large carpenter's square, pretty soft metal and it bent but it worked...once), and about an hour getting my dang stubborn old oil filter off. 
So in a perfect world this could be a 4 hour gig.
I've been saving this decal until my steering damper wasn't coated in oil:
Following this thread and through plenty of 80-tech ih8mud reading, I am finally leak free
It's been a long time coming. Since I bought her back in '01 there has always been some slow oozing oil leak coming from somewhere, and if I didn't stay on it, the undercarriage would end up coated in oil & grime, and then start to drip onto the driveway. Recently the oil pump cover started leaking pretty steadily, so it motivated me to chase it all down. Two weeks ago I cleaned up everything as best I could with degreaser, toothbrushes, zillions of shop towels, pressure washer, fingers, toothpicks, whatever to get the gunk out of all the crevices. And I found my leaks.Pan arch is ok. Oil pan gasket is ok. PCV valve is new and leak free along with an oil catch can, as is the valve cover gasket. What was leaking was the dizzy o-ring, the oil pump cover gasket, the crank seal, and a couple of other little doodads I had not expected: oil level sensor gasket, crank position sensor, and the "galley plug" metal seal (the hex nut plug in front of the CPS). Rather than monkeying around with FIPG and trying to seal the CPS (I've read of unsuccessful attempts at this) I bit the bullet and ordered a new one from my local Toyota ($150).
Note that all of the old gaskets were brittle and crumbled upon removal.
So all cleaned up, sealed up, crank bolt torqued to 300+, refilled with Mobil 1 0-40w with an OEM filter, and running new OEM belts she purrs and has good oil pressure. The oil pump cover leaked/oozed from the bottom for 2 days, but once the new gasket swelled up it has been leak free.
Hope this helps anyone chasing down leaks. And a huge thanks to this thread.
i love mud
ps breaking the crank bolt loose is an adventure. i tried to tie down the pulley using rope to the frame but couldn't get it to grab, so I used the bump-start method and she broke free so easily I was kicking myself for wasting an hour trying other gentler methods. Bump start ftw. To re-torque I made a tool to bolt into the pulley, similar to other tools seen in this thread. All this done in one 7 hour wrenching session, with a couple of #6's along the way
...but I spent a good hour trying to rope down the crank pulley, another hour looking for metal and fabbing a tool to bolt into the crank pulley (I ended up repurposing a large carpenter's square, pretty soft metal and it bent but it worked...once), and about an hour getting my dang stubborn old oil filter off. So in a perfect world this could be a 4 hour gig.I've been saving this decal until my steering damper wasn't coated in oil:
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Not so successful!
I tried the bump start method and broke my John Deere pry bar that I have used since 1983. I had it strapped tightly to the frame. I've spent over 6 hours reading posts on mud to figure out what to try next. I spent 8 hours on Friday wrenching to no avail. I don't have compressed air. I don't have the ability to fab a holding tool. I need to make a trip to the tool store. I hope that the bump start method didn't stress all the metal in my crank shaft as bad as it did my favorite made in the USA breaker bar that I thought was invincible!
I tried the bump start method and broke my John Deere pry bar that I have used since 1983. I had it strapped tightly to the frame. I've spent over 6 hours reading posts on mud to figure out what to try next. I spent 8 hours on Friday wrenching to no avail. I don't have compressed air. I don't have the ability to fab a holding tool. I need to make a trip to the tool store. I hope that the bump start method didn't stress all the metal in my crank shaft as bad as it did my favorite made in the USA breaker bar that I thought was invincible!
you need a 3/4" drive bar.
Yep I broke my 1/2" breaker bar and 2 sockets. Got a 3/4" breaker bar and impact sockets and it came right off.
I used a 1/2" breaker bar and socket (both Craftsman) and put the handle to my floor jack over it and broke with my hands, came right off using a screwdriver at the torque converter end to keep the engine from spinning.
My neighbor is the foreman at a tractor trailer depot and he lent me his mechanics torque wrench (3/4" drive and 400 ft/lb) it went right on. The handle was about 3' long making it a piece of cake.
Good luck!!!
My neighbor is the foreman at a tractor trailer depot and he lent me his mechanics torque wrench (3/4" drive and 400 ft/lb) it went right on. The handle was about 3' long making it a piece of cake.
Good luck!!!
I just did the crank seal & oil pump cover last week. I used this thread as my guide and it was right on. The starter bump worked perfectly 1st time using a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a short/regular 30mm socket and tying the handle end up against the PS underside frame rail w/ a very slight starter bump. (Curiously I checked & found my 1& 3/16 impact socket to be as tight a fit as the 30). After reading before doing and then doing it, I strongly suggest 3/4 breaker bar. Others have used the 1/2 inch successfully, but it seems too 'light duty' for this bolt and torque spec.
Are you guys using a 3/4" 30mm socket or using an adapter? I am getting the tools ready for this job, was wondering if I will snap a 1/2"-3/4" adaptor, I may just give it a whirl with the 1/2" socket.
I would use straight 3/4" bar and socket just to be sure.. though your welcome to try if you think it'll work
