How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

[Kernal]

I tried the rope method but no go and was afraid I'd break something with the 14mm socket method so went with the bump start method which worked after a few trys. I did notice once the pulley was in my hands that the thin rim of rubber on the inner side of the pulley showed some very slight delamination from the steel, like a 1/3 mm crack between the two, so was it just from age or ?? and that's when it hit me; the crank pulley/harmonic balancer is made like a motor mount, rubber molded to two pieces of unconnected steel, correct? Too much stress between the two sides (like over 300 ft lbs going in opposite directions) and you can rip it apart.

 

[crooozer]

Wow thats weird! Cause I didn't so much as touch any of that stuff. Just pulled the gasket out and replaced it.. It's been fine for a good 200,000kms or so so far.

It means you have that part in backward, as there's a matching arrow on the other side of the center gear that is supposed to be lined up when assembling.

 

[RedfishBluegrass]

Thanks for this post. I just replaced mine last week and other than a couple of broken breaker bars trying to get the harmonic balancer off, everything went great. Thanks again.

 

[aim]

As per an earlier post in this same thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics-4.html#post5584934

and this whole discussion:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/388544-oil-pump-gear-install.html

I assembled my oil pump with the marks facing different ways. Good luck!

Wow thats weird! Cause I didn't so much as touch any of that stuff. Just pulled the gasket out and replaced it.. It's been fine for a good 200,000kms or so so far.

 

[OGBeno]

Some verbiage....

 

[OGBeno]

Oil routing

Another good schematic.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Onur comes in with a clutch play!

 

[MAD MARK 80]

I did with bolts on crank pulley with straps both side, SS bolts bend so much to loose nut. And I replaced bolts with 10.8 grade hex key bolts from Sears hardware, I used M6 1.00 16mm works good no leak. I didn't use 12mm bolts at middle.

 

[MAD MARK 80]

 

[Tacoma4life]

Just ordered 2 o-rings and 2 front mains today. I'll be doing our 1997 cruiser and my brothers 1996 Lexus soon. The Lexus can't even be driven as it's dumping over a quart every day.

 

[Inukshuk]

Can someone please clarify: does the fan shroud need to come out as well? If so, how do you remove it once the top two bolts are out?

 

[coax]

I had my rad. out for replacement when I did mine, so I'm going from memory here (and may need to be corrected). The shroud sits on two little tabs on the bottom of the radiator, and should tilt inward, up and out. I can take a pic of the old radiator in my garage if that would help.

But I *think* that may require removal up the upper radiator hose I think whether or not it *needs* to come out would depend on the length of the socket you have for the crank pulley, but it sure would give you more room to work.
Sorry, not very helpful.

 

[coax]

Ok can't seem to edit the above post but the second picture in this thread shows the tab the fan shroud sits in on the bottom.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/377551-94-lc-radiator-swap-pics-comments.html

 

[Inukshuk]

I think whether or not it *needs* to come out would depend on the length of the socket you have for the crank pulleyl.

Thanks!

The length of the socket seems to be the only reason. I had a long 30MM socket. A long socket was problematic from below and I was unable to manually loosen from above. On the bright side the cover seal and front crank seal are replaced, the tapping-the-#3 lips screw-bit procedure worked really well. (bumped crank bolt free and used chain wrench to tighten)

On the downside, I cracked the fan shroud on the way out. I'll try a zip tie epoxy repair. I think the upper radiator hose and perhaps battery tray need to come out. Another good excuse to flush the antifreeze and install the new battery.

Thanks again for a great thread! I'm just now reinstalling belts and such, but overall I'd rate this a 3 hour job.

 

[Kernal]

My shroud seemed stuck so I just worked with it in, a bit harder on the forearms but it can be done. The best fitting Phillips bit I found was a short Bosch PH#3 from either Home Depot or Lowe's, came two to a pack. As others have said, clean out any gunk in the screw head slots first and then tap the bit a few times to make sure it is seated well.

 

[crooozer]

Naa mate, left mine in.

Can someone please clarify: does the fan shroud need to come out as well? If so, how do you remove it once the top two bolts are out?

 

[alia176]

Can someone please clarify: does the fan shroud need to come out as well? If so, how do you remove it once the top two bolts are out?

If you take it out, it'll only give you more wiggle room. The battery box is or a power steering hose or two probably making it harder to remove. Don't forget, the radiator fan and the shroud come out together.

 

[Kernal]

I pulled the fan out between the shroud and radiator after removing the top two bolts but left the shroud in only because it seemed stuck and I didn't want to break it. I did remove the battery and box which gave more room overall to work and made it much easier adjusting the alternator (I removed it to replace the brushes).

 

[kerrye]

Some kinds of Loctite should be heated to release the bond. One of these little butane torches should do it. Flame is fine enough to point directly at the screws:

Amazon.com: Self-igniting Butane Micro-torch: Home Improvement

 

[Litmanovitz]

Wrench to remove front engine pulley

Gentlemen,
Please find drawing of a simple tool to hold the pulley in place, while loosening the 30mm bolt. I did most of the work from the top so I am not sure why most of the posts show the work being done from the bottom of the rig.
Remove the cooling fan (from the top), attach the tool to the main pulley with two bolts (from the top), rest it on the water pump and open the 30mm bolt. All from the top, including replacing the oil seal.
enjoy,
Rafi Litmanovitz