How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

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Thanks guys! Especially Kidglove for the pics, really appreciate it mate.

I will try to source a 3/4 breaker and 30mm socket to suit after I've already spent money on a 1/2 and 1/2 30mm socket.. :doh: I sure love it though and will use the bar more often.

I also bought a perfect size phillips head for the 7 screws (took a screw into the hardware store) and 1/2 adaptor so I can use the breaker for added leverage.

UPDATE, I can get a 3/4 and socket for $110 today
 
So just to clarify procedure in an auto 80.

I remove the drivebelts, hold the driveplate with a 14mm socket, wedge it so it cant move while you remove the crank bolt, all this while in 'P' gear.

Do your thing, reinstall drivebelts and crank the crank nut back on. Right?
 
Thats it, it is really not that hard you will be fine you just have to be prepared is all.
Obviously you are removing the fan and shroud correct?
Now just go get it done already
 
why you guys are jamming s*** in the fly wheel is beyond me. That doesn't even get a "red neck"rating.

I take some synthetic rope found at the hardware store, loop it around the PS frame and then wrap it around the crank pulley so while you tighten the bolt it tightens on the rope.

Real easy and you aren't buggering up the metal bits.
 
landtank; what size rope, how to wrap it (like multiple loops, tied off, back to the frame rail??), and does this work for removing as well as installing the crank bolt?
 
No one is jambing anything into anything.
I just shared what worked for me and the 14mm deep socket placed on the bolt on the drive plate worked very well for me better than I expected it to.
Heck I think that anything is better than bump starting to get the bolt off.
Just sharing what worked for me is all
They can get the bolt off however they like to but at least they know they have different options if one way does not work for them.
 
Don't worry Kid, I'm doing the job this weekend! All parts are here now but I sure aint starting it at 5pm after work.

I just went and saw the bearing shop across from me and asked if I should use a gasket glue. They say 'YES'
Did you guys just clean the contacts and reinstall? I think that might be the reason a few here still have a leak.

Also, I'm still a tad confused about the driveplate bolt. There are driveplate 'bolts' and you rotate the crankshaft to access them through the window with the cover on it. Undoing the bolt will loosen, and remove the driveplate. I obviously don't want to do this, I'm guessing you just position the socket and wrench to stop the plate from moving. I'm quite satisfies I know exactly what I'm doing now and guess the job will be quick (I could be wrong though)
I'm also going to give the truck an oil change while I'm there.
 
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What's the point of the little arrow?
014.webp
 
For most of the world it points north, but in OZ it points south. :D IDK, can't find a reference to it in the FSM, probably an alignment point during installation??
 
i thought it was really interesting to hear the guy helping me rebuild my motor talk about this oil pump design. He said that the way that gear is designed to orbit, makes it wear even. This way you never have a "wobble" of one area wearing more than another. Pretty neat design!
 
confirmation needed; when the timing mark on the crank pulley is at the 6 o'clock position (bottom) the crankshaft key will be at the 12 o'clock position (top), correct?

Edit: I went ahead and pulled the crank pulley; I found the key was almost at the top, with the pulley timing mark almost at the bottom. Or looking at the backside of the crank pulley from below and behind, the timing mark was about at the 5 o'clock position when the key was about at the top; they were maybe 150-160 degrees apart (or 200-210 the other way around), not directly across from each other, FWIW.
 
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Done! It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be. Many thanks for the tips on this thread. I think I used almost all of them.

A tip from me, which has probably already been mentioned, is to get the heads of the screws as clean and then dry as possible before you stop tapping the bit in. Also, Harbor Freight has a nice 20$ 3/4" breaker bar, in addition to the 3/4" torque wrench, that fits nicely up against the frame rail for bumping the crank bolt off. I used a huge zip tie and a kayak strap to hold it against the frame. I'm not sure I'll ever need this 3/4" stuff, maybe I will try and sell it all as kit in the classifieds after I make sure nothing leaks. That might be tempting fate, though.
 
crooozer said:
What's the point of the little arrow?
Click to expand...

It means you have that part in backward, as there's a matching arrow on the other side of the center gear that is supposed to be lined up when assembling.
 
Hello every one, I started to fix mine as well this evening. Everything goes smooth ready to put back oil pump seal and cover expect crank shaft seal, I'm kind getting crazy my self to how to take it out. I tried use screw driver and any other tools, just lost myself to take it out and got dark so I called it for a day. Any better way to take it out?
 
madmark; are you saying you can't get the old crank seal out? I just did mine; tried needle nose pliers first but just ripped the rubber lips off the seal. Next I used a large/long flat-bladed screwdriver with the blade taped up as the FSM recommends. Working from above I aimed the blade at the bottom rear of the seal to one side of the shaft, pushed down and levered the screwdriver out; the seal popped right out.
 
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Yes I tried same way as you, when I used needle pliers it did ripped off, when I used screw driver it was hard to pushed out so I was afraid to scratch shaft I couldn't do nice. Will try again, thanks.
 
just so you know, the seal can't go in any further due to a flange that's inside the tunnel. The seal is bottomed out against this flange. FYI.
 
landtank said:
why you guys are jamming **** in the fly wheel is beyond me. That doesn't even get a "red neck"rating.

I take some synthetic rope found at the hardware store, loop it around the PS frame and then wrap it around the crank pulley so while you tighten the bolt it tightens on the rope.

Real easy and you aren't buggering up the metal bits.
Click to expand...

I have to agree here as flex plates are net very thick. If you put even the slightest tweak or bend in it causing a vibration (or worse) that would be unfortunate.

The rope trick sounds good, but you can also use a large chain type strap wrench to hold the crank? You can't mar the surface where the belts ride as they are down in the grooves...
 
Aren't you stressing the insulator that sits between the two halves of the pulley? I always assumed that to be the reason why the OEM "tool" grabs the inner part of the pulley.

Tacoma4life said:
I have to agree here as flex plates are net very thick. If you put even the slightest tweak or bend in it causing a vibration (or worse) that would be unfortunate.

The rope trick sounds good, but you can also use a large chain type strap wrench to hold the crank? You can't mar the surface where the belts ride as they are down in the grooves...
Click to expand...
 
aim said:
Aren't you stressing the insulator that sits between the two halves of the pulley? I always assumed that to be the reason why the OEM "tool" grabs the inner part of the pulley.
Click to expand...

the answer is "yes" but it's done all the time! i've managed to ruin one pulley this way, hence the 14mm deep socket method.
 
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