How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

[lintynavel]

Kernal: I just used an 18" 3/4 breaker and angled to right around 8:00 towards the passenger side front tire. I then slipped the 4ft x 1in galvanized pipe over the breaker bar, feeding it up from the outside - right in front of the tire and uder the frame. My truck is not lifted or anything, but I have a the larger tire size that fits on the stock rim. The bar fit perfectly and with a couple of boards between the concrete and the end of the pipe, it was nice and snug against the frame - one starter-bump later and the bolt was loose.

I'm not done, but I was able to dismatle everything and remove all of the 7 scews from the top quite easily. I did remove the fan shroud. I am unclear if Zane did this (it sounds like he may have just took the fan out and left the shroud?) but It gave me good access from the top. I had good pressure and control of the socket for all of the screws and I was very happy with how easily they all came out.

 

[Kernal]

I don't understand where the boards, pipe and concrete go in relation to each other, a photo would help. Did you work mostly from above to remove the screws and crank or from below?

 

[kidglove13]

Why don't you just try the 14mm socket trick on the drive plate first.
If you bump start it and something lets loose because it was not secured right you will be bumming.
FWIW

 

[lintynavel]

Yes...I was prepped to do it this way and I plan to use this method when I tighten it. My main concern was I was going to have to wrench counter-clockwise and until I got the 14mm socket good and tight against the housing, I was going to have to turn the crank in the wrong direction. I remember reading somewhere that you did not want to do this too much......so, I just went with the bar & bump.

Kernal: I'll try and get a pic tomorrow - the way I had it, there was really no way for it to break loose and do damage, but the 14mm socket would work well, I just did not feel like crawling back and forth to get the bolt in the correct position, as close to the housing as possible - in order to avoid counter-clockwise motion on the crank

 

[crooozer]

Just a quick one: the original poster drainer his engine oil because he wasn't sure if the engine would leak when replacing the crankshaft seal, will this leak oil, or do I not bother draining?

Also, just a little thing that happened to me the other night at a party.
I saw a guy I kinda know there who's a 'mechanic' so I thought I'd let him know I'll be replacing the oil and crank seal once parts arrive.
He first said I'd most probably need a puller to remove the crank pulley (which I told him I didn't think I need one) and then said 'if you can do that job, I'll give you a job at my workshop mate'

He seemed to think this was a huge job, but he only deals with minor problems and mainly does LP Gas conversions now.

 

[kidglove13]

Yes some oil will leak out about 1/4 of a quart or so not bad.
You do not need a puller for the pulley it came right off

Kernal: you would be only turning the crank just a small bit backwards and it will not harm anything, I remember Landtank IIRC saying that turning the motor in reverse a small bit will do no harm.

 

[lintynavel]

Croozer - your mechanic aquaintance might be correct if not for the collective wisdom of this site. Just having all of the right tools, parts, expectations and tips make the job(s) much more trouble-free and enjoyable. I hope I did not jinx myself as I am not done yet!

 

[Kernal]

Before I start I would like to understand better from what direction most of the work is done; like removing and replacing the oil pump cover, crank and crank seal; are people lying/sitting underneath the vehicle and reaching up, or working over the top of the radiator reaching down from above? Either way it looks like my arms would need to be stretched a bit.

 

[kidglove13]

I worked from top and bottom

 

[lintynavel]

Well - all back together and I have oil pressure. There was a very, very small amount of oil that seemed to seep through when I first started it. I ran the engine for a good 15min and had my daughter rev the engine - it did not seem to worsen. It is definitely not like it was. I am hoping that as I get it out and drive it, that this resolves. Has anyone else had any problems?

I was able to do just about everything - oil pump cover removal and install, crank seal install, etc from the top. I did need to work from underneath a little - but the truck was on the ground (not on ramps, jack-stands, etc) and this was fine. The 14mm socket on the flywheel worked like a charm - no problems at all.

Tomorrow I will do the dizzy 0-ring.

 

[crooozer]

Just in regard to the 305lb crank bolt pressure, did anyone NOT use a torque wrench for this? Just pull the s***e out of it and locktite or something?

And what the hell is a flywheel? I keep hearing about the 14mm socket but am not understanding.
Thanks!

 

[tourboy]

The 14mm socket is for those fitted with an automatic gearbox to jam the flywheel, which all the US trucks are. Chances are you have a manual, drop it into low range 1st gear with the handbrake on and the engine won't move.

 

[kidglove13]

Actually croozer has an auto 80 from the look of his pictures.
Under the truck where the tranny and motor meet on the front of the tranny housing facing the front of truck you will find a 2"x4" rectangular rubber inspection plug on the front of the tranny housing.
Remove plug and you will see inside, the drive plate and the bolt heads on the drive plate.
That is where you put the 14 mm socket.
You will need a flash light to see inside.
It is really easy if you have an auto tranny.
Does this make sense?

 

[crooozer]

Thanks heaps mate, I have all my parts now and am ready to do the job so I'm glad you're here to answer these questions! Just hoping the 30mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar will stand up to the starter bump..


In regard to your description, it's not really making sense, but I'll have a look when I get home to see if I can locate it. I'm guessing cause it's auto, I do not need to hold the idler pulley on tight when tightening the crank bolt? Do I work on the truck in gear?
So when I go to put the crank bolt back on I will need to get to the 14mm bolt?

Thanks again.

Actually croozer has an auto 80 from the look of his pictures.
Under the truck where the tranny and motor meet on the front of the tranny housing facing the front of truck you will find a 2"x4" rectangular rubber inspection plug on the front of the tranny housing.
Remove plug and you will see inside, the drive plate and the bolt heads on the drive plate.
That is where you put the 14 mm socket.
You will need a flash light to see inside.
It is really easy if you have an auto tranny.
Does this make sense?

 

[kidglove13]

Yes you will need to get to the 14mm bolt on the drive plate to install the crank bolt and crank it down.
Or you could use a heavy duty strap wrench to stop the crank pully and motor from turning.
I would go the 14mm socket route it is really easy strap wrench=PITA
When you get under the truck to look for the inspection window on the tranny you will find it.
I will try and post a pic of the little rubber inspection cover on the tranny.
You know that there is a good chance that the 1/2 inch bar will break right?
I would really try and locate a 3/4 inch bar for the job.

 

[crooozer]

Thanks for trying to take a photo, I appreciate it.

Damn.. Those 3/4 breakers bars are pricey!..

 

[kidglove13]

Is there someone that you can borrow one from?

 

[timer00]

I got a 3/4" breaker bar from the local Harbor Freight for like $30 or less

Also from what I hear is that they also have a $80-90 3/4" torque 300lb+ ft/lb wrench that seems to just well to torque the crank nut down.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-808.html

Goes to 300 and just another qtr turn or so and you'll probably be good from what people on here think

edit: I didn't realize hes in Austrailia so not sure if it'd be a problem finding what am I referring to

 

[kidglove13]

This a pic of the inspection opening on the front of the tranny
It is just a rubber cover that pops off

 

[alia176]

Just in regard to the 305lb crank bolt pressure, did anyone NOT use a torque wrench for this? Just pull the s***e out of it and locktite or something?

And what the hell is a flywheel? I keep hearing about the 14mm socket but am not understanding.
Thanks!

LOL, I think some things are getting lost in the translation.

I don't use a torque wrench, just a 3/4" breaker bar and a 24" long pipe. After the engine is stopped from rotating, the socket and wrench placed on the bolt head. Then, I walk over to the left side (U.S. driver) fender, reach over grab the pipe and pull it toward me. The fender stabilizes me and I can use full upper body power.

Flywheel - technically, we should be calling that a flex plate since this is an automatic transmission. I don't recall if you have an autobox or manual box. If autobox, then we're placing a 14mm deep socket on the torque converter/flex plate bolt head to stop the engine from turning while you tighten the crankshaft bolt.

To access the torque converter bolts, you have to remove a plastic cover that's over a small access window at the bottom of the bell housing. Again, this is for an autobox, not manual.

I hope that makes sense!

edit: see pic above for the plastic cover that pops off easily.