I have a six foot ladder; so are you just using the ladder to place one foot on with the other on the bumper for balance? I may have access to a lift, just would not be able to leave it overnight if I got stuck or needed a part.
How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics
- Thread starter Zane
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Heat
I used a 40 watt soldering iron, its hot enough to solder rc batteries together so its hot enough to heat up loctite. I didnt strip a single screw and reused the original screws.
get the heads clean and dry, heat and proper bit.
I used a 40 watt soldering iron, its hot enough to solder rc batteries together so its hot enough to heat up loctite. I didnt strip a single screw and reused the original screws.
get the heads clean and dry, heat and proper bit.
One foot on the ladder, 1 on the bumper, I was all over the place, the ladder just gave me a extra place to put a foot when I needed it.
You really need to make sure you have all the right tools and parts first then you will be set just like any other project. You do want to get stuck without a tool or part.
I would highly suggest that you get a new set of the oil pumpcover screws. If you get all the screws out and you do not need them then great.
But it would suck if you stripped out any of the screws and did not have any backup screws.
It is really not that hard there is just not alot of space with the rad there.
FYI Take your time with the screws you will thank yourself later.
You really need to make sure you have all the right tools and parts first then you will be set just like any other project. You do want to get stuck without a tool or part.
I would highly suggest that you get a new set of the oil pumpcover screws. If you get all the screws out and you do not need them then great.
But it would suck if you stripped out any of the screws and did not have any backup screws.
It is really not that hard there is just not alot of space with the rad there.
FYI Take your time with the screws you will thank yourself later.
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I went out tonight to check out different phillips head bits; I have a few now, DeWalt and now Bosch PH3. I tried a few others that did not seem to sit deep enough; the Bosch fit well but they're very short, only about an inch long. Could not find a Phillips head screwdriver that would fit properly. Only have a small battery powered soldering iron, but do have a propane torch. I can see how the soldering iron might work better than the torch if you held it against the head of the screws. Got 7 new Toyota screws, tried to find Torx socket screws locally but no luck.
I just ordered Brett's torx kit and will order the rest of the parts tomorrow. I don't visit the site as much as I'd like for fun, but when I have a problem - I know everyone here will have the answers/tips/part #'s/etc! I couple of years ago I rebuilt the front axle ONLY because of this site. I was quoted about 1200 for labor and 700 for "the part" to get this oil leak fixed (it was there since I bought the rig in 2006, but has recently become much worse).
Sounds like with some preparation and proper expectations, I should be able to save myself some $$ (hopefully).
Thanks to everyone from the initial post to all of the f/u tips, I'll post back and let everyone know how it goes and of course come looking for help as needed!
Sounds like with some preparation and proper expectations, I should be able to save myself some $$ (hopefully).
Thanks to everyone from the initial post to all of the f/u tips, I'll post back and let everyone know how it goes and of course come looking for help as needed!
It might, but the oil is not alot. Then you just wipe it all down again real good.
The soldering iron might work I cannot say.
But you can pick up a cheap propane torch from home depot just in case.
Plus it is always good to have a propane torch for what ever reason not just this.
I used a few bits, I actually twisted a couple of them.
You can do the job however you like, all I can say is what worked for me, which might not work for someone else.
Having a different head replacment screw is a great idea but, you have to get the other ones out first.
I would not be so concerned about the head of the new screws, but about getting the old ones out in one piece.
You strip a screw and your job just got alot longer
The soldering iron might work I cannot say.
But you can pick up a cheap propane torch from home depot just in case.
Plus it is always good to have a propane torch for what ever reason not just this.
I used a few bits, I actually twisted a couple of them.
You can do the job however you like, all I can say is what worked for me, which might not work for someone else.
Having a different head replacment screw is a great idea but, you have to get the other ones out first.
I would not be so concerned about the head of the new screws, but about getting the old ones out in one piece.
You strip a screw and your job just got alot longer
Will a longer (1/2" drive say) socket/breaker bar work better for leverage with these 7 screws than a short 1/4"?
I'm a little scared I might strip them now..
I can try and hammer the phillips head bit on but have limited space between that and tyhe radiator.
My Dad said he could lend me a tool that you tap with the hammer and it moves to loosen out tough screws, again, can't bash it hard enough wbecause of the radiator.
I'm a little scared I might strip them now..
I can try and hammer the phillips head bit on but have limited space between that and tyhe radiator.
My Dad said he could lend me a tool that you tap with the hammer and it moves to loosen out tough screws, again, can't bash it hard enough wbecause of the radiator.
Like Zane shows in the beginning you have to turn the hammer sideways and use the side of it.
I covered the rad with a thick piece of card board to protect it which is a great idea.
The key to the screws that I found was being able to feel when it was going to strip out when you are cranking on them, it was a by feel thing and also looking at them when you are cranking on the wrench.
A longer ratchet might be better I do not know.
Just be patient with them, they will come out. You can do it. Using the hammer sideways worked fine for me.
If you want more room just remove the rad. but I think that is a PITA.
You have to evils here, do you remove the rad which is a pain or leave it and work in the tight space, pick your poison.
The job is actullay not a hard job, it is the screws and sapce that make it a PITA.
I would also have on hand a right angle drill and some easy out bits as well just in case you strip a screw.
I am not trying to discourage anyone from doing it yourself, you can save your self like $1000.
I am just saying be prepared for what can happen with the screws.
Getting those little suckers out was %80 of the work.
At first I was very leary about doing it myself, and I love to wrench, but when Toyota told me it would cost me over a $1000 to fix it that made the decision for me.
Go for it maybe you come up with some tricks of your own to make the job better.
I covered the rad with a thick piece of card board to protect it which is a great idea.
The key to the screws that I found was being able to feel when it was going to strip out when you are cranking on them, it was a by feel thing and also looking at them when you are cranking on the wrench.
A longer ratchet might be better I do not know.
Just be patient with them, they will come out. You can do it. Using the hammer sideways worked fine for me.
If you want more room just remove the rad. but I think that is a PITA.
You have to evils here, do you remove the rad which is a pain or leave it and work in the tight space, pick your poison.
The job is actullay not a hard job, it is the screws and sapce that make it a PITA.
I would also have on hand a right angle drill and some easy out bits as well just in case you strip a screw.
I am not trying to discourage anyone from doing it yourself, you can save your self like $1000.
I am just saying be prepared for what can happen with the screws.
Getting those little suckers out was %80 of the work.
At first I was very leary about doing it myself, and I love to wrench, but when Toyota told me it would cost me over a $1000 to fix it that made the decision for me.
Go for it maybe you come up with some tricks of your own to make the job better.
I ordered all the rest of the parts today & hunted around town for some of the recommended tools/supplies. A Couple of questions:
1) In the original thread regarding the torque converter method of preventing the crank from moving while removing/installing the crank pulley - it referenced a "12mm deep well socket". Somewhere along the way in this thread it evolved into a 14mm. Can someone verify the correct size?
2) In the original thread there was some discussion about reusing the crank pulley bolt and if it should be re-torqued to 304 ft-lb or if this was only for a new bolt. Anyone have any comments on this?
Autozone has a pretty nice "loan-a-tool" program - they said they could get a "heavy-duty" 3/4 drive torque wrench overnight if I put down the $299 up front (this would be refunded in full when I return it). They have a 1/2 in drive that will go up to 250 ft-lb in stock (I know some on this thread have gone that route). Sounds like a good way to procure the most expensive tool for this job.
1) In the original thread regarding the torque converter method of preventing the crank from moving while removing/installing the crank pulley - it referenced a "12mm deep well socket". Somewhere along the way in this thread it evolved into a 14mm. Can someone verify the correct size?
2) In the original thread there was some discussion about reusing the crank pulley bolt and if it should be re-torqued to 304 ft-lb or if this was only for a new bolt. Anyone have any comments on this?
Autozone has a pretty nice "loan-a-tool" program - they said they could get a "heavy-duty" 3/4 drive torque wrench overnight if I put down the $299 up front (this would be refunded in full when I return it). They have a 1/2 in drive that will go up to 250 ft-lb in stock (I know some on this thread have gone that route). Sounds like a good way to procure the most expensive tool for this job.
It's a 14mm deep well socket. I reused the crank pulley bolt on both my 80's w/ no problems.
x2 14mm deep socket
Getting proper torque on the crank bolt is key
Getting proper torque on the crank bolt is key
Just finished this a couple of weeks ago. Stripped the last screw! Luckily it was the lowest one/easiest to access. I was able to drill it out with a Craftsman easy out used as a drill bit. The power tool I used was a Craftsman angle impact drill. Worked great!
I retorqued the crank bolt to 250lbs and had the local Toyota dealer finish the job for $45.00.
Thanks Zane, this saved me a bundle of cash!!
I retorqued the crank bolt to 250lbs and had the local Toyota dealer finish the job for $45.00.
Thanks Zane, this saved me a bundle of cash!!
Thanks guys.
In regard to the possibility of stripping a thread or 7, what is this right angle drill and easy-out bits you guys are talking about? I've never heard or seen them before.
In regard to the possibility of stripping a thread or 7, what is this right angle drill and easy-out bits you guys are talking about? I've never heard or seen them before.
A right angle drill is just that, a drill where the head is at a right angle for use in tight spots.
An easy out bit is designed to remove stripped screws and such, maybe you guys over there have a different term for them.
They can usually be had at the hardware store where all the other drill bits a stuff are.
An easy out bit is designed to remove stripped screws and such, maybe you guys over there have a different term for them.
They can usually be had at the hardware store where all the other drill bits a stuff are.
Thanks mate.
Largest torque wrench I can find to rent only goes to 250ft-lb (Autozone). Harbor Freight has a 3/4" wrench for $79 that maxes out at 300ft-lb +/- 4% clockwise; guess that means if set at 300ft-lb it could actually be torquing anywhere between 288-312ft-lb?/. Only other choice would be to buy a 100-600ft-lb wrench for around $300 minimum. Any thoughts?
So far...so good. The starter-bump worked perfectly with a 4ft x 1in galvanized pipe wedged between the ground and the passenger-side frame. I just used a few 1x boards to fill the space between the concrete and the end of the pipe until the pipe was tight against the frame. No stripped bolts either.
Just taking my time. We built a house last year with a garage - first garage I've ever owned and this is the first project. Beats the heck out of rolling around in the dirt.
Just taking my time. We built a house last year with a garage - first garage I've ever owned and this is the first project. Beats the heck out of rolling around in the dirt.
lintynavel: could you describe a bit more how/where you placed the ?breaker bar and pipe? Looks to me like you could place a breaker bar almost straight down from the crank bolt and use the mounting bracket of the steering stabilizer to hold the bar in place? What size breaker bar did you use?
I'm still trying to figure out how to do this job with the rig on the ground and not on a lift?? Seems like it would be easier if the front axle was on jack stands, then you could sit under the front of the vehicle?? Or do most people just reach down while laying over the radiator?
I'm still trying to figure out how to do this job with the rig on the ground and not on a lift?? Seems like it would be easier if the front axle was on jack stands, then you could sit under the front of the vehicle?? Or do most people just reach down while laying over the radiator?
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I would not put the breaker bar against the stabilzer mount.
I used a 3/4" breaker about 20 inches long with a pipe on the end and did it from the top using 14mm deep socket method
You need to put it tight up against the bottom of the pass side frame rail and straped to the frame for good measure
Did you try to loosen the crank bolt by putting a 14 mm deep socket on a drive flange bolt at the tranny and doing it by hand?
That method worked great for me, it might work great but I am not a big fan of the bump start method
I used a 3/4" breaker about 20 inches long with a pipe on the end and did it from the top using 14mm deep socket method
You need to put it tight up against the bottom of the pass side frame rail and straped to the frame for good measure
Did you try to loosen the crank bolt by putting a 14 mm deep socket on a drive flange bolt at the tranny and doing it by hand?
That method worked great for me, it might work great but I am not a big fan of the bump start method