How to remove shift lever rod in column shift (2 Viewers)

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Indygbd

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On the 1962 fj40 the shift rod was stripped from the turn signal housing. Someone drilled it to pin it however it doesn’t shift correctly. I pulled the wheel and housing to replace and saw that the threaded part on the rod is more square than round. So what I thought would be a quick and easy project has turned into a long one!
As you can see from the photo the rod needs replaced which I need to source. Any idea how to remove this? I read in the book I have however it was not really clear to me.

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On the 1962 fj40 the shift rod was stripped from the turn signal housing. Someone drilled it to pin it however it doesn’t shift correctly. I pulled the wheel and housing to replace and saw that the threaded part on the rod is more square than round. So what I thought would be a quick and easy project has turned into a long one!
As you can see from the photo the rod needs replaced which I need to source. Any idea how to remove this? I read in the book I have however it was not really clear to me.

View attachment 3609454

View attachment 3609455

View attachment 3609458
Check here:


Here:


and

Here:

 
On the 1962 fj40 the shift rod was stripped from the turn signal housing. Someone drilled it to pin it however it doesn’t shift correctly. I pulled the wheel and housing to replace and saw that the threaded part on the rod is more square than round. So what I thought would be a quick and easy project has turned into a long one!
As you can see from the photo the rod needs replaced which I need to source. Any idea how to remove this? I read in the book I have however it was not really clear to me.

View attachment 3609454

View attachment 3609455

View attachment 3609458
You need to remove the shift lever. The shift lever engages the buggered up threaded component. You will need to source a good used one, I am pretty sure I have one you could use to replicate if you cannot source a used one, but want to keep it in my inventory for future needs. The shift lever bushing is available from Cruiser Corps as linked in the 2nd linked thread above. The turn signal housing can be bought new from Mr. T, but needs to be threaded to receive the buggered up component in your photos. See my 1st linked thread for housing threading details.
 
If still not clear after reading through the links and looking at the photos in those links PM me and I can send you my cell # and face time with you if you have an Iphone. I assume the '62 column shift mechanism is identical to the ones in my '69 and '70 40's
 
Push on the “E” pins simultaneously and pull out shift lever “B” (but watch out for flying pins because of spring “F”). Once that’s out you can pull out shaft “G” (and keep track of spring “I”). You’ll have to find a used shaft “G.”
IMG_1666.png
 
Push on the “E” pins simultaneously and pull out shift lever “B” (but watch out for flying pins because of spring “F”). Once that’s out you can pull out shaft “G” (and keep track of spring “I”). You’ll have to find a used shaft “G.”
View attachment 3609487
Thank you both very much. I didn’t have that diagram and didn’t realize G would separate from the rod. Much appreciated.
 
I wrote this for Mud Members trying to salvage your ‘3 on the tree’ shifters…..it may help you once the pin is replaced. At the end of the article, there is a paragraph or 2 on ‘how to adjust’ that in the turn signal housing.

FJ40 3 Speed Column Shift Rebuild

Our 68 FJ40, that we have owned since 1992, still sports the 3 speed column shift. My wife and I decided to keep the nostalgia of ‘3 on the tree’ when we resurrected the beast after a 17 year respite. And after the restoration, shifting through the gears, it was as loose and sloppy as we remembered. And because I updated the Saginaw power steering (fixing a 70’s vintage upgrade by the PO), slightly changing steering column geometry, it was enough to exacerbate sloppy shifting into missed gears, partial engagements (popping out of gear) and at least on one occasion, bent linkage.

During the restoration, my only attempt at sorting out the sloppy linkage was installation of spherical rod ends instead of the original ball and sockets. There are quite a few manufactures, all offer metric and ends that are right and left hand thread. On the 3 speed column, there are a total of six, 8mm ends, 3 right hand and 3 left hand thread. The ones I ordered all included a grease fittings. My logic here....‘loose and sloppy’ equated to take up at the rod end....and found it...‘not the case’.

Attachment.png


Another issue causing the sloppy shifting was the original nylon bushing located at the lower end of the column, it was worn to the point of no less than a 1/4” of play....not rigid enough of a structure to push/pull the remainder of the linkage and shift forks into or out of the detents that lock the transmission in gear.

Attachment_1.png


In the picture, you can see light between the shaft and the original bushing. Yep, pretty worn out.

I decided to go with an aluminum bushing, with a grease fitting. A friend of mine with a lathe and a small versa-mill helped me out here.

We bored out the lower shaft housing, cleaned up the end of the column shaft, and fabricated an aluminum bushing....pressed it all together then drilled and taped a hole for a grease fitting.

1__#$!@%!#__Attachment.png


Attachment_2.png


Then reassembly and adjustment. The truck shifted so much smoother. However, it still wasn’t right.

Attachment_3.png


The next problem to solve....the pin that screws into the turn signal bezel and supports the upper end of the shaft was loose and wobbly. There are no instructions for assembly here.....or adjustment....other than the obvious...but not so obvious. The big question, should the pin be threaded in tightly so it doesn’t move (rigid structure) and shimmed into the correct orientation for the shift lever or left a bit loose, able to rotate as the shift lever is moved up or down, between 1st and reverse and, 2nd and 3rd.

Initially, I left it loose, but continuously worried that its floppiness would eventually shear the pin or strip the threads. This is one of those pieces that you want to be careful with, they are no longer available and as 3 on the trees are generally discarded in favor of a floor mount shifters...piece parts are getting harder to find in the used bins of our FJ40 suppliers.

So I stacked several different thicknesses of washers under it and boy oh boy. What a difference. What’s goofy, no matter where I position the hole in the shift selector it still rotates a tad. Reverse and 2nd tighten and 1st and 3rd loosen. So the procedure is...shim as required to get the orientation close. Run through the gears and if you see any rotation (loosening especially) add (or subtract) another shim....to keep the pin from rotating.

So anyway, I hope this helps any of you trying to salvage your ‘3 on the tree’...there aren’t many left...and people are always in awe...when they see you ‘row through the gears’. And those of you that can double clutch into that straight tooth non-synchro 1st...you have a skill that very very few possess. It’s a lost...art?....become one with machine.

Bee Good.

MMJennings
 
I wrote this for Mud Members trying to salvage your ‘3 on the tree’ shifters…..it may help you once the pin is replaced. At the end of the article, there is a paragraph or 2 on ‘how to adjust’ that in the turn signal housing.

FJ40 3 Speed Column Shift Rebuild

Our 68 FJ40, that we have owned since 1992, still sports the 3 speed column shift. My wife and I decided to keep the nostalgia of ‘3 on the tree’ when we resurrected the beast after a 17 year respite. And after the restoration, shifting through the gears, it was as loose and sloppy as we remembered. And because I updated the Saginaw power steering (fixing a 70’s vintage upgrade by the PO), slightly changing steering column geometry, it was enough to exacerbate sloppy shifting into missed gears, partial engagements (popping out of gear) and at least on one occasion, bent linkage.

During the restoration, my only attempt at sorting out the sloppy linkage was installation of spherical rod ends instead of the original ball and sockets. There are quite a few manufactures, all offer metric and ends that are right and left hand thread. On the 3 speed column, there are a total of six, 8mm ends, 3 right hand and 3 left hand thread. The ones I ordered all included a grease fittings. My logic here....‘loose and sloppy’ equated to take up at the rod end....and found it...‘not the case’.

View attachment 3609524

Another issue causing the sloppy shifting was the original nylon bushing located at the lower end of the column, it was worn to the point of no less than a 1/4” of play....not rigid enough of a structure to push/pull the remainder of the linkage and shift forks into or out of the detents that lock the transmission in gear.

View attachment 3609525

In the picture, you can see light between the shaft and the original bushing. Yep, pretty worn out.

I decided to go with an aluminum bushing, with a grease fitting. A friend of mine with a lathe and a small versa-mill helped me out here.

We bored out the lower shaft housing, cleaned up the end of the column shaft, and fabricated an aluminum bushing....pressed it all together then drilled and taped a hole for a grease fitting.

View attachment 3609526

View attachment 3609527

Then reassembly and adjustment. The truck shifted so much smoother. However, it still wasn’t right.

View attachment 3609528

The next problem to solve....the pin that screws into the turn signal bezel and supports the upper end of the shaft was loose and wobbly. There are no instructions for assembly here.....or adjustment....other than the obvious...but not so obvious. The big question, should the pin be threaded in tightly so it doesn’t move (rigid structure) and shimmed into the correct orientation for the shift lever or left a bit loose, able to rotate as the shift lever is moved up or down, between 1st and reverse and, 2nd and 3rd.

Initially, I left it loose, but continuously worried that its floppiness would eventually shear the pin or strip the threads. This is one of those pieces that you want to be careful with, they are no longer available and as 3 on the trees are generally discarded in favor of a floor mount shifters...piece parts are getting harder to find in the used bins of our FJ40 suppliers.

So I stacked several different thicknesses of washers under it and boy oh boy. What a difference. What’s goofy, no matter where I position the hole in the shift selector it still rotates a tad. Reverse and 2nd tighten and 1st and 3rd loosen. So the procedure is...shim as required to get the orientation close. Run through the gears and if you see any rotation (loosening especially) add (or subtract) another shim....to keep the pin from rotating.

So anyway, I hope this helps any of you trying to salvage your ‘3 on the tree’...there aren’t many left...and people are always in awe...when they see you ‘row through the gears’. And those of you that can double clutch into that straight tooth non-synchro 1st...you have a skill that very very few possess. It’s a lost...art?....become one with machine.

Bee Good.

MMJennings
Great work there!
 

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