How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

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hankinid said:
that makes it mandatory to remove the locknut, lockwasher, and inner nut.
Steve
Iirc slee said just the (outer) locknut needed to be removed (and at that point the lockwasher slides right off so no biggie). If the inner locknut also needs to be removed (I doubt it does though) that automatically turns this into resetting preload of the bearings. But then again bending back tabs of the lockwasher to get the outer nut off, I guess you may want to reset preload on the inner nut while in there anyway and maybe use a new lockwasher?...

Bottom line is the tool makes sense to me if you're in there anyway doing a bearing repack (very 30k by the book) and I appreciate the fact that slee's sharing the tool and making it available to diy'rs. I'd argue that when repacking the bearings is the right time to do this job of lubing the spindle bearings anyway and if one isn't servicing their own wheel bearings then why would they bother servicing these bearings themselves - just ask the mechanic to also squirt the spindle bearing using landcruiser phil's method. for anyone complaining about taking off the flange I don't get why this needle bearing is so important that you would grease it without repacking the wheel bearings which is called for every 30k..since there's not even a mention of greasing this bearing in the service schedule iirc.
 
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After reading the entire thread I have just one question; Which way is best to grease the bearing?
 
Well..."best" will start another round of debate :D

IMHO: Remove the hub, thoroughly clean the needle bearing (inside the inner portion of the steering knuckle) and lube it and the CV portion that rolls against it by hand. That's how I do it...and I've never had an issue.

It just doesn't take that much extra time to do it this way...and then there's no wondering about how much grease is on the needle bearing...and you know you've cleaned the old maybe contaminated grease away.

The perfect time to do this is either when you refresh/overhaul the inner hub/wheel bearing and/or when you do a CV rebuild/replace.
 
^ that's my thoughts as well. Once you've gotten down to a bare spindle, it is not that much more effort and time.
 
Well done Christo/Ben/Joe/Gary/? :D

:clap:
 
Think I'll add Slee's grease tool to my collection of things no one will be able identify when they inherit my stuff. Or if I ever sell my last Land Cruiser it will include a trailer load of special things.
 
Christo,
Thanks for the step by step writeup....
Will get a Spindle Grease Tool on order...
 
That is perfect! While these wont make or break your business.... I think it is even better that people want to buy it now. Thank you for doing that!
 
Wow. Pictures are just awesome. Now i understand it except for one thing.... In the video, when the grease pushes the axle inward, how do we get it back outward? Is this accomplished when the outer hub nut is tightened?
 
The axle and nut are independent of each other. You can just grab the axle and pull it back. Needs to be pulled from the inboard side.
 
Should you use the same grease for the axle shaft bearings as you use for the wheel bearings?
 
It really is a beautiful piece of machining.

Question: I added grease until I saw new grease oozing past the brass bushing per Slee's instructions. The shaft was then difficult to pull back outboard, but I finally got it pulled out and the snap ring back on the end of the shaft. I have a tiny bit of grease finding its way between the outboard shaft dust seal and the back of the steering knuckle. Should I be concerned?
IMG_3944.webp
 
4Peanut said:
Question: I added grease until I saw new grease oozing past the brass bushing per Slee's instructions. The shaft was then difficult to pull back outboard, but I finally got it pulled out and the snap ring back on the end of the shaft. I have a tiny bit of grease finding its way between the outboard shaft dust seal and the back of the steering knuckle. Should I be concerned?

Anyone?
 
I would not be concerned about that. I see the same thing when I lube mine. The little bit of extra grease has to go somewhere if there is no air gap left inside. Now that all the extra grease is squeezed out just wipe it off so it doesn't collect dirt. It'll be fine.
cp
 
I think I got a little crazy the first time I did mine (on full tear down CV service) and left too much grease in the void behind the spindle (where all the LCP method pictures illustrate) and ended up with contaminated breaks... It was that or the CV clamps were not tight enough.

Has anyone else experienced the same (spindle bearing contaminating the brakes)? Seems like it was probably the spinning CV the more I think about it.

And for the record I prefer to flush grease through an assembly rather than just add grease without a positive purge.
 

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