How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (5 Viewers)

[dbbowen]

Yeah that sucks man sometimes your better off keeping tech to yourself

haha yeah kinda why i removed it. I also noticed all of the cruise switches went away on ebay when i was trying to get a few for spares hahaha at least some folks were able to use it! If people need the AC stuff ican just email it to them

 

[Fyffer]

They are very similar. Are you dbw or dbc? I have half of my blue/green wired up like a red blue. I used the T56 one on the last swap i did that used a nv4500

First of all I want to TY very much for the interest and input. Yes it is a DBC, factory gauges except Tach thats by he way also not working now (but not the first time either) when I got it home. Found the loom laying on the exhaust pipe, did inspect wiring inside and per gross observations looked OK. My H55F is staying for sure, I love it.
Cutting/splicing and pinning would be way over my comfort zone. Swaps with that Tranny is not that uncommon I believe, one big reason I posted.

 

[Fyffer]

First of all I want to TY very much for the interest and input. Yes it is a DBC, factory gauges except Tach thats by he way also not working now (but not the first time either) when I got it home. Found the loom laying on the exhaust pipe, did inspect wiring inside and per gross observations looked OK. My H55F is staying for sure, I love it.
Cutting/splicing and pinning would be way over my comfort zone. Swaps with that Tranny is not that uncommon I believe, one big reason I posted.

Oh,this is the answer I got from Brendan LT1Swap "You can remove the auto trans stuff, but it should be under the vehicle, out of sight, just one leg of the harness. Probably more work then worth to remove the trans plug I would think." Kind of sound like keep it and hide it. Not sure?

 

[dbbowen]

Oh,this is the answer I got from Brendan LT1Swap "You can remove the auto trans stuff, but it should be under the vehicle, out of sight, just one leg of the harness. Probably more work then worth to remove the trans plug I would think." Kind of sound like keep it and hide it. Not sure?

you could probnably roll it up and hide it, just seal off the ends that you dont use so they dont corrode

 

[Fyffer]

This is the one leg he’s talking about, also has the speed sensor on it.

 

[BurntToast]

I added it back. I removed the cruise control and AC stuff because people were trying to take info i was putting out here for free to help people to produce and sell for a profit and that was pretty lame. I put the Cruise one back.

I prefer name and shame

 

[gonzopancho]

I added it back. I removed the cruise control and AC stuff because people were trying to take info i was putting out here for free to help people to produce and sell for a profit and that was pretty lame. I put the Cruise one back.

I just want to duplicate the cc for my ls3 powered, fj62 (body, owned the truck since 2005) on 80 frame build.

 

[dbbowen]

I just want to duplicate the cc for my ls3 powered, fj62 (body, owned the truck since 2005) on 80 frame build.

So youll need to use this for your cruise.

Cruise Control for GM LS Drive-by-Wire Engines

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.

www.dakotadigital.com

The gen 4 computer doesnt allow you the freedom to run the cruise straight out of the PCM like a dbw gen 3 does. The good news is that you can still run the Toyota stalk and dash switch just like i did on the cruise post with this dakota digital interface thing. On page 9 of the instructions from dakota digital, you can see the wire pin out for the controls. Youll still need to use 3 relays to convert the 12v+ signals to 12v- for the toyota switches to talk to the dakota digital box for resume/accel, set/coast, and on/off. The power in on their harness will remain just power in. Other than that, youll just follow the dakota digital instructions pretty much.

Cruise and AC are like 80% why i chose gen 3 for mine. On my gen 3 swap my cruise and AC are completely controlled by the GM computer just like it was in the tahoe/silverado with all the functionality and stuff. The other 20% is because im broke haha

 

[BurntToast]

So youll need to use this for your cruise.

Cruise Control for GM LS Drive-by-Wire Engines

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.

www.dakotadigital.com

The gen 4 computer doesnt allow you the freedom to run the cruise straight out of the PCM like gen 3 does. The good news is that you can still run the Toyota stalk and dash switch just like i did with on the cruise post with this dakota digital interface thing. On page 9 of the instructions from dakota digital, you can see the wire pin out for the controls. Youll still need to use 3 relays to convert the 12v+ signals to 12v- for the toyota switches to talk to the dakota digital box for resume/accel, set/coast, and on/off. The power in on their harness will remain just power in. Other than that, youll just follow the dakota digital instructions pretty much.

View attachment 3602652

Cruise and AC are like 80% why i chose gen 3 for mine. On my gen 3 swap my cruise and AC are completely controlled by the GM computer just like it was in the tahoe/silverado with all the functionality and stuff. The other 20% is because im broke haha

I’m diving into my gen4 AC, cruise control and tap shift and may or may not be feeling the pain of that decision

 

[dbbowen]

I’m diving into my gen4 AC, cruise control and tap shift and may or may not be feeling the pain of that decision

Haha yeah thats pretty much why i went with a gen 3. I went LM7 instead of LQ4 because im broke, but i actually wanted a gen 3 motor haha