How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.

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Tried to do highbeams and it didn't like the idea.

Issue- can't get lights to come on at all.

When lights are on, i plug in the solenoids, and high beams work and solenoid triggers fine. Once I turn off lights I can't get them back on until I unplug the solenoid wires. If I unplug DS, it will light up but not PS, vise versa. I removed the 9005 Highbeam LC bulbs and running it stock harness straight to bi-xenon solenoid wires.

Ideas?
 
found em. they work
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That is what I plan. Nothing like tailgating someone on the interstate and then the reverse lights go on

You could be tailgating them and all of a sudden strobe lights come on. I've had that happen. ;)


I almost did the HID in reverse lights a few years ago but I didnt want to drill out the 7440 bulb socket. Nice job going through with it. I think I'll do HIDs in the white LX's extra reverse lights that dont have any socket cut into them.
 
So I hooked up the CCFLs as DRLs about a week ago so I thought that I would do a short write up on it.

So I started by doing some research on how to disable the stock DRLs. This info can be found here:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/43660-drl-question-lc.html

Based upon this info I was able to create a wring diagram of what I wanted my lights to do. My goal was to have the current DRLs off but on a switch. I would then hook up the CCFLs to come on whenever the key was in the on position. I borrowed LJs idea of hooking into the heated seat 12V circuit. This provided simplicity for me as well as a 12V source. Even during starting, there is a constant 12V supply to the lights so that the inverters are not damaged.

Once the Lo beams have been turned on, the CCFLs would turn off. This was accomplished through a 5 pin relay with 87 and 87A pins or a normally closed 4 pin

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I realize that this wiring diagram is not 100% accurate to the factory wiring of the Lo beams and DRLs but it shows all relevant wires.

I then found a dual rocker switch to control both the CCFLs and DRLs so that I could save some space. This selectability would also allow me to black out the cruiser while trying to outrun the Fuzz:p:

Cole Hersee Dual Rocker Switch 58506-08 - New in Box | eBay

I then put it all together...

The add-a-circuit

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Wires entering the cab using the driver side wire boot

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My switch setup

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Factory DRL switch splice

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The relay

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Relay mounting. Put on drivers side of radiator using existing holes about on battery tray level.

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Tap into lo beams for relay.

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Mounting locations for inverters. Each are mounted on the interior of head light cutout.

Passenger

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Driver

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Finished product

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Questions? Let me know.
 
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Anyone know what this is? It was hooked into the empty slot that I cut out on the mirror switch.

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Up'd the output a bit and did some tweaking.
Added a foreground limited, adjusted the shield to give a full color spectrum on cutoff and 55W 4300K high beams.

Completely eliminated my needs/wants to other aux lights. I will be adding some stuff in the near future inside the headlights for more output, low beams need some more output. Look at the first picture with low beams only, you can barely see the street light ahead and the little mailbox reflector. When high beams are engaged the solenoid flap goes down and the high beams flip on. Now look at the street light, you didn't see there was a sharp downhill curve coming did ya? Even with the halogen highs and Bi-xenon it did not cast that far.


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I have and they look great even with two cutoff lines. I need to properly aim them and then wire up the high beam solenoid in the projector. I had the passenger light turned down with the old setup and I need bring it back up and align the lights sideways to match the upturn in the cutoff.
 
I have and they look great even with two cutoff lines. I need to properly aim them and then wire up the high beam solenoid in the projector. I had the passenger light turned down with the old setup and I need bring it back up and align the lights sideways to match the upturn in the cutoff.

Rotation is easy to correct with the Mini's, even when everything is sealed up. Throw some picture up.
 
2000UZJ said:
Rotation is easy to correct with the Mini's, even when everything is sealed up. Throw some picture up.

I will. The drivers side is tilted a few degeees but is liveable. What bolt moves the light up/down and which one does side to side?
 
I will. The drivers side is tilted a few degeees but is liveable. What bolt moves the light up/down and which one does side to side?

The top one adjusts side to side. The one you can never on the bottom reach controls up and down. Take a pair of pliers and grab the top of the bulb holder. You can slightly shift the projector in there to correct rotation. I hate adjusting our headlights, they are the biggest PITA.


and for everybody else: stay tuned as I have a spare LC headlight coming in for some major surgery. I'll post up when I get it. Get ready for another retrofit thread, but this time it will take 2-3 days per headlight :)
 
Also, I replaced the halogen fog light bulbs with $10 ebay LEDs to match the HID color. I lost a lot of the light output of the stock yellow bulbs, but it doesn't matter with the projectors and now it at least matches and looks better.
 
Also, I replaced the halogen fog light bulbs with $10 ebay LEDs to match the HID color. I lost a lot of the light output of the stock yellow bulbs, but it doesn't matter with the projectors and now it at least matches and looks better.

I went with hyper yellow bulbs so I didnt loose power in the fogs and didnt have to worry about matching the HID's. I like that it doesnt match.
 
Mxndrnks said:
I went with hyper yellow bulbs so I didnt loose power in the fogs and didnt have to worry about matching the HID's. I like that it doesnt match.

Photos? My ARB fogs just went out on the driver side.
 
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