How to Desmog an FJ60 (2 Viewers)

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You wouldn't' desmog as a whole if you could do it again?

I would not, no. My experience was it was more hassle than it was worth for the imperceptible change in performance gained by doing it. PO did the desmog on mine and did it so poorly that I had to spend a lot of time tracking down parts to put back on the truck to make it run better. Guy ruined some bits trying to block things off, etc. Just did a terrible job. Much more to the desmog than simply removing parts, as I think you are discovering. If you are not willing to do the recurves and selective removal required to make it run right desmogged, its prolly a lesson in futility in terms of any marked performance improvements and for me it really didn't simplify anything, never mind the effects it has on the environment.

You will have plenty of opportunity work on your cruiser without introducing intricacies and unknowns by desmogging it. Don't poke the bear. I am sure there is value to doing a desmog, but it's not gonna suddenly shave off 20 years of age. I would rather just embrace what the truck is as is than try and make it something it isn't. I'm a purist though when it comes to these trucks and generally believe if it was good enough for Toyota Engineers, its good enough for me. So, if I had it to do again, I would just leave it alone. But that's just me. You do you. HTH.
 
I should point out when I say my desmogged truck ran fine with a mechanical FP, it did so with the stock Aisin carb. Not sure how the stock FP and a Weber would sing together. Don't think I have seen a thread on here where the mention of a Weber carb on a 2F wasn't accompanied with all manner of issues. I'm sure you could get it to work, but just from what I have seen, seems it requires a bit of chicken-waving vood-doo to do so. GL.
The stock pump will work fine with a Weber. I’ve had cars with dual webers and a mechanical pump.
Ive heard there may be problems with the float angle for severe off roading but Webers are very tuneable and there shouldn’t be “all manner of issues”. I know this is a big divided topic among LC owners. Some run Webers just fine, others hate them.
 
There are a few routes you can go on fuel delivery/return and even a way to keep your stock fuel pump. The only vac lines I have now are brake booster, PCV, ignition advance, and purge for charcoal cannister. You would have to buy an adapter to use your Toyota air cleaner. No HIC or choke to worry about.
Was this only becuase you had a holley? I'm running aftermarket carb, would there be any needed vacuum lines beyond what you stated above?
 
For me desmog was really more about getting rid of parts that break down and leave the engine inoperable. Most notably is the smog pump. I went through three of them. One, I pulled the broken veins out of and kept going for a while. Another totally seized up and threw the fan belt leaving me stranded. Now I am partially desmogged. Still running the EGR system after extensive repairs. I'd like to remove it all but the reality is that I will need to recurve the dizzy properly and re jet the carb. If you want to do this I suggest using TLC performance/ie JimC. This means down time unless you have a spare dizzy and carb to send him.

If you want to go this partial desmog route realize it does cut back on the cat properly burning off emission gases and your exhaust will be stinky. But its pretty easy. Replace the smog pump with a delete pulley, remove the air rail and air injectors from the head and plug the holes. Remove the air hoses and plug from the air cleaner and valving that went to the smog pump. Later I removed the air valving from the driver's side fender and the cut and welded the exhaust smog piping off the down pipe.

Repairs to my EGR that made it work were: remove and clean the carbon from the EGR valve, replace the egr pipe with a stainless one from SOR. The main reason for this is that the old EGR pipe had badly corroded around the flange and was unable to flush up to the exhaust manifold and maintain a good seal. I replaced the EGR modulator valve with an 80 series that is still available from toyota. You'll know if you EGR modulator is bad if you have "modulation" ...a stupid hesitation in your engine at certain rpms...and you can test the modulator vacuum (follow the emissions FSM instructions). I also had a failed egr VSV and had to buy a generic one and re-design the electrical terminals.

Even with all that done, there is the concern of a failed emission circuit board. So for me the main purpose in desmogging is NOT performance improvement but reliability improvement.
 
Just my 2 cents. I desmogged all (3) of the 60's I have owned. I did them in the 2012-2014 time period. I still have 2 of them, and gave one to my son. The sole purpose was to improve reilability, and it's absolutely the best thing I have done to them over the years. There is no shortchanging the work - and it's a substantial amount. But if done properly, and combined with a good carb rebuild, tune up and distributor recurve the results can be great. I used to have hell with the EGR and air pump related parts failing, and getting rid of it all was liberating. The trucks have been 100% reliable since being desmogged.

There is one thing I would consider if doing another. I left the cat (which was in good shape) on one of the trucks and noticed that it did help with the exhaust smell. I took the cat off of the other two because they were in bad shape. I did not notice much, if any performance difference with or without the cat. So maybe consider leaving it or installing a new one if exhaust smell is a concern.
 
Was this only becuase you had a holley? I'm running aftermarket carb, would there be any needed vacuum lines beyond what you stated above?
Yes, the Sniper. I imagine it would be the same for most AM carbs.
 
I desmoged my 82 FJ60 shortly after I bought it because PO had a partial desmog done and I had several exhaust leaks. I also pulled the head and had it rebulit. I'm running original carb and distributor. I followed the instructions on this site . It runs great. No pinging. Am I hurting my cruiser by running it like this till I can find a donar carb and dizzy ?
 
I desmoged my 82 FJ60 shortly after I bought it because PO had a partial desmog done and I had several exhaust leaks. I also pulled the head and had it rebulit. I'm running original carb and distributor. I followed the instructions on this site . It runs great. No pinging. Am I hurting my cruiser by running it like this till I can find a donar carb and dizzy ?
If it isn't detonating, it should be fine. Rule of thumb is to not exceed 28° total advance (with pump gas and stock compression). These engines create a lot of vacuum accelerating off idle, so pay close attention for pinging then.
 
I desmoged my 82 FJ60 shortly after I bought it because PO had a partial desmog done and I had several exhaust leaks. I also pulled the head and had it rebulit. I'm running original carb and distributor. I followed the instructions on this site . It runs great. No pinging. Am I hurting my cruiser by running it like this till I can find a donar carb and dizzy ?
What’s a donar carb and dizzy?
 
If it isn't detonating, it should be fine. Rule of thumb is to not exceed 28° total advance (with pump gas and stock compression). These engines create a lot of vacuum accelerating off idle, so pay close attention for pinging then.
Any recommendations on getting this dialed is as I fire up this rebuilt engine and desmog setup in the next few days? Do not want to break in a new engine with detonation (which I’m assuming is the same thing as pinging?)
 
I did the desmog to clean up the engine bay but also because my secondary air pipe had rusted through and my EGR was questionable. I did find that the engine pings now unless I periodically run higher octane fuel.
 
Picking up vac/ coolant line for the build --- It recommends 12 for the 3mm and 32 of the 6mm but mcmaster only sells it in quantities of 10, 25, and 50.

Can I get 10 of the 3mm and 25 of the 5mm not have major surplus or is this a BAD idea?

Dan
 
Picking up vac/ coolant line for the build --- It recommends 12 for the 3mm and 32 of the 6mm but mcmaster only sells it in quantities of 10, 25, and 50.

Can I get 10 of the 3mm and 25 of the 5mm not have major surplus or is this a BAD idea?

Dan
Check out Jegs or summit racing maybe for silicon vac line.
 
FYI, toyota still offers replacement vacuum hose. Just another option. Looks and feels more like the original. Probably a bit more expensive than buying a spool of silicone but maybe not that much more.

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