How to Desmog an FJ60

[little foot]

View attachment 2326786

This is THE Guide! Wrapping up my full Jim C Desmog and Holley Sniper install. New Intake & Exhaust manifold gaskets, and removed the cats. Tossed in a new Saginaw PS pump while at it. The Desmog & Sniper Kit Solved all my vacuum leak issues, fires right up and runs super strong now. Tuning and will be GTG by Thursday.

Mine fires right up and has all the smog equipment.

 

[little foot]

I thought you just yanked everything off and cap it off
then when it runs like crap, wonder what you did wrong.

exactly, mine run great with all the smog.

 

[rhah]

To anyone who needs it, bring me you rig and a 6 pack.

i will help walk you through your standard desmog with no kits needed.

it’s not hard just got to rip a bunch of stuff off and plug a couple holes

 

[kprdvr]

This hasn't been posted in a while so I thought I'd reup.

Thanks for reposting this PDF for desmog as I bought my first FJ a year or so ago and have been working on completing the half desmog the PO started (cut desmog pump belt and installed weber 38... then drove on flat ground in Savannah GA and had no idea there was no power...LOL) and following the guide, but as a newb to FJ's and a lot of carb work I have some questions I hope y'all can help with regarding the guide and I'll update with a new release version for the weber desmog once I get the charcoal canister portion working right as I'm 95% of the way there and I want to keep the EVAP setup (currently have woosh).

Here is where I get lost in the PDF:

1) On page 8 between sections 2.6 VTV and section 2.7 Fuel cut vacuum switch, the image with X, Y, Z & S ports seems to be referred to as a VTV on this page and in section 2.6 it says there are 2 identical VTVs??? but later in Section 4 Vacuum Line Routing, sub-sections 4.4 and 4.5 refer to VCV's (driver side and passenger side) so I'm having a hard time knowing if VTV is a typo and should be VCV or if the VCV section is missing/absent... and if the section for VCV's is missing, that opens up more questions as my rig only came with one 4 port diaphragm that I believe to be a VCV with ports X, Y, Z & S....so I'm struggling to figure out EVAP setup on driver side vs passenger side??

2) Images on pages 18-21 seem to show VTVs as simple diaphragms with 2 ports (one on each side) instead of 4 ports. Page 18 I do NOT see a second 4 port VCV with X/Y/Z/S ports to map... Please help me understand why the doc has sections 4.4 & 4.5 for VCVs and what they relate to...for the names listed as I'm also not sure what 'EGR R Port' is referring to (whats the R mean?). I'm trying to follow the ideal setup image on page 21, but I'm getting turned around and am honestly lost, so explaining the bullets for both 4.4 and 4.5 would really help this newb finish his humble pie...

3) 38 Weber is running great but the Mr Gasket dial fuel regulator says pressure is 4.5 PSI. The same 38 is on my CJ5 and only runs well at sub 4 PSI, I've read the same here and am confused...any feedback on that is welcome. I've read about return lines on older FJs, but there are 3 ports on the mechanical OEM pump - is one a return? If so that is good to know as I want to avoid setting up another to reduce pressure build up if that is happening.

4) I have a lot of desmog parts in good condition if people need them, I'm happy to help them find a new home if someone here is interested, just let me know what you need and I'll check my bin if you are willing to give a few bucks to make it worth my time to get them in the post and obviously cover shipping

As I said, I don't see a PDF for the 38 Weber desmog with EVAP, so once I get this 100% I'll gladly create a revision of this PDF and repost it for the community.

 

[OSS]

The desmog manual has a few errors in it that you noticed.

The charcoal canister IS AN EMISSIONS COMPONENT. The way Toyota set it up has the engine sucking in vapors from the charcoal canister when you’re driving.
If a person wanted to “desmog a 2F” the charcoal canister plumbing doesn’t have to be hooked up like Toyota did it.

This is a VCV.
The 2nd mysterious VCV was originally located clipped under the air cleaner cover on the passenger side. It regulated when the distributor can breathe to the air cleaner. It isn’t a smog component but a much desired distributor breathing component.

And This is a VTV.
VTVs are air flow restrictors. Vacuum air can flow freely in one direction but is restricted to a certain flow rate going the other way. Their purpose on the 2F is to slow the actuation of a vacuum diaphragm so it doesn’t slam open. Different colors designate different flow rate capability.

EGR ports refer to the pipe designations on the plastic EGR vacuum modulator.

You’ve GOT to have the Toyota emissions manual close at hand anytime you want to mess with the emissions components. See attached

 

[kprdvr]

The desmog manual has a few errors in it that you noticed.

The charcoal canister IS AN EMISSIONS COMPONENT. The way Toyota set it up has the engine sucking in vapors from the charcoal canister when you’re driving.
If a person wanted to “desmog a 2F” the charcoal canister plumbing doesn’t have to be hooked up like Toyota did it.

This is a VCV.
The 2nd mysterious VCV was originally located clipped under the air cleaner cover on the passenger side. It regulated when the distributor can breathe to the air cleaner. It isn’t a smog component but a much desired distributor breathing component.
View attachment 3026137


And This is a VTV.
VTVs are air flow restrictors. Vacuum air can flow freely in one direction but is restricted to a certain flow rate going the other way. Their purpose on the 2F is to slow the actuation of a vacuum diaphragm so it doesn’t slam open. Different colors designate different flow rate capability.

View attachment 3026138

EGR ports refer to the pipe designations on the plastic EGR vacuum modulator.
View attachment 3026150

You’ve GOT to have the Toyota emissions manual close at hand anytime you want to mess with the emissions components. See attached

Thank you so much OSS. I was able to replace the charcoal canister and fix a few other things which were unclear to me. She is driving like a dream now and no more woosh.

When I can get a minute I'll update the doc with a version for those with the weber. thanks to all of you for this forum. Very helpful.

 

[Gretsch]

Thank you so much OSS.

Dude is a legend.

 

[PabloCruise]

The problem is not emissions. The problem is the 2F or even the 3FE engines are an ancient design that just are not efficient and trying to make them compliant with emissions. Regulations requires a lot of work. Easier with the fuel injection on the 3FE but still problematic hence the air pumps and egr. Though to be fair EGR is still common even in modern vehicles.

The counter-flow heads are not the cleanest. A good cross-flow head w/ a nice hemispherical combustion chamber makes for a clean burn w/ no need for EGR.

My favorite Honda engine has no EGR and our BMW M54 also has no need for EGR.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thank you so much OSS. I was able to replace the charcoal canister and fix a few other things which were unclear to me. She is driving like a dream now and no more woosh.

When I can get a minute I'll update the doc with a version for those with the weber. thanks to all of you for this forum. Very helpful.

What fixed your "whoosh"?

What did you use as the replacement charcoal cannister?

 

[Seth S]

The counter-flow heads are not the cleanest. A good cross-flow head w/ a nice hemispherical combustion chamber makes for a clean burn w/ no need for EGR.

My favorite Honda engine has no EGR and our BMW M54 also has no need for EGR.

yep.

 

[Beehanger]

If you have intake/exhaust leaks, that will slow you down. It's amazing how much engineering went into the smog system. But removing all that stuff will lighten the load and simplify not just your 60, but your spirit. Consider a Holley Sniper. Swapping out the mechanical fuel pump for a high pressure electric pump is the most unsavory part.

Hey Moab, How can you check for exhaust intake leaks? I thought I saw a pinhole sized one leak water through when I was cleaning the Intake. But I see no visual cracks as far as I can tell-- is this enough?

 

[Beehanger]

This hasn't been posted in a while so I thought I'd reup.

Can someone confirm I need to buy the block off plates for both Intake and Exhaust? Or at least fab them and the gaskets for each?

Beehang

 

[Spike Strip]

You will need, or need to make, a plate for the EGR / PCV intake on the front of the intake (MAF) sells one but it's pricey. And a block off for the exhaust where the J tube goes. Jim C sells the best one on his website.

 

[kprdvr]

What fixed your "whoosh"?

What did you use as the replacement charcoal cannister?

sorry for the late reply, didn't get my notifications and just saw this...

Autozone part VC120 - https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/vapor-canister/p/duralast-vapor-canister-vc120/239708_0_0

from this thread: Charcoal Canister - Great Option! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/charcoal-canister-great-option.412261/

had to get longer bolts to extend the brackets that hold it in...

 

[BamaHeel]

Since this thread came back up let me add that you should properly vent the distributor cap and not take the shortcut skipping the VCV valve

 

[Godwin]

Since this thread came back up let me add that you should properly vent the distributor cap and not take the shortcut skipping the VCV valveView attachment 3253355View attachment 3253356

Impressive dizzy cap carnage. I had that happen once but not to that extent and the 2F still ran fine.

 

[BamaHeel]

Impressive dizzy cap carnage. I had that happen once but not to that extent and the 2F still ran fine.

Mine did too I had no clue until closer inspection

 

[MoaByte]

Hey Moab, How can you check for exhaust intake leaks? I thought I saw a pinhole sized one leak water through when I was cleaning the Intake. But I see no visual cracks as far as I can tell-- is this enough?

I've tried spraying starter fluid, brakr cleaner, and even propane. What works great and safe is just the same soapy water bottle you use to check for tire leaks. Just start at the top and work down, the engine will tell you just like the others. I hope you feel as stupid as I did when you find it.

I have yet to try a foolproof exhaust leak test. I've considered building a smoke machine. However, soap/water spray bottle still works in a limited way.

 

[MoaByte]

Impressive dizzy cap carnage. I had that happen once but not to that extent and the 2F still ran fine.

That attests to the original engineering of Toyota.
The HEI replacements do not have a vent or bearings. They also need mush more periodic maintenance then stock.

 

[Beehanger]

If you have intake/exhaust leaks, that will slow you down. It's amazing how much engineering went into the smog system. But removing all that stuff will lighten the load and simplify not just your 60, but your spirit. Consider a Holley Sniper. Swapping out the mechanical fuel pump for a high pressure electric pump is the most unsavory part.

Most people use an electric fuel pump with Desmog? The guide doesn't mention this, curious what would need to be done to keep Mechanical pump.

Beehanger

Thank you so much OSS. I was able to replace the charcoal canister and fix a few other things which were unclear to me. She is driving like a dream now and no more woosh.

When I can get a minute I'll update the doc with a version for those with the weber. thanks to all of you for this forum. Very helpful.

how'd you find a replacement charcoal canister?