How much Raptor Liner? (1 Viewer)

[Fuentesfranko]

Hey!

I'm getting my '73 FJ40 painted and I'm thinking of getting Tintable Raptor liner on the floor of the truck. I'm looking on Amazon and there are 2,4,6,8 liter kits and I have no idea how much it would take to cover the floor from the front to the back on the ol' 40.
Anyone has experience with this?

Thank you!

 

[reddingcruiser]

Just curious, WHY do you want to use a liner or coating on your 40?

 

[Fuentesfranko]

Just curious, WHY do you want to use a liner or coating on your 40?

To be honest, I'm not sure haha. The previous owner recommended I use it and I took his word for it. Any reasons why I shouldn't use it? I assumed the floor paint would be more rugged and would last longer

 

[-MaTTi-]

Just curious, WHY do you want to use a liner or coating on your 40?

I am planning to use Raptor too. Cons: durable, work as sound insulation, tintable = color match, fades minor grinding/welding marks, look good.

 

[reddingcruiser]

IMHO, the pluses are nice, as @-MaTTi- mentioned, but the minuses in a damp, humid environment are worth considering. Moisture that gets trapped between the liner and the sheet metal becomes a haven for rust. And you probably won't notice it until it's progressed to a really ugly stage, where it's enough to lift the liner or show through on the underside.

 

[reddingcruiser]

IMHO, the pluses are nice, as @-MaTTi- mentioned, but the minuses in a damp, humid environment are worth considering. Moisture that gets trapped between the liner and the sheet metal becomes a haven for rust. And you probably won't notice it until it's progressed to a really ugly stage, where it's enough to lift the liner or show through on the underside.

 

[Fuentesfranko]

IMHO, the pluses are nice, as @-MaTTi- mentioned, but the minuses in a damp, humid environment are worth considering. Moisture that gets trapped between the liner and the sheet metal becomes a haven for rust. And you probably won't notice it until it's progressed to a really ugly stage, where it's enough to lift the liner or show through on the underside.

So in your opinion it's better to just paint without the liner so if/when there's rust, it's easier to spot? And I guess if it gets scratched, you'd just touch up the paint?

 

[reddingcruiser]

So in your opinion it's better to just paint without the liner so if/when there's rust, it's easier to spot? And I guess if it gets scratched, you'd just touch up the paint?

Yes, I think the manufacturer got it right. My trail rig has had surface rust for years (decades actually). If this were trapped in a moist environment I guarantee it would be much worse. Personally, if I can see it I can keep up with it. Or, out of sight, out of mind.

 

[Splangy]

Proper prep is key to obtaining the expected performance from any coating. Corrosion from a damp, humid environment will be a concern no matter what you go with.

The bedlners will have a much higher abrasion resistance, impact strength, and less moisture vapor transfer than normal automotive paints. On the other hand, their cohesive strength can hide disbonded sections and undercut corrosion. This isn’t a problem if you look out for locations where the coating has failed (typically due to abrasion, impact, or improper prep).

Regular paint will have far less abrasion and impact resistance. It also has less cohesive strength and will chip and peel off more noticably where there is a failure. It’s a little easier to spot failures this way, resulting in less of a chance of corrosion getting really bad before it’s noticed.

I’m a big fan of the Raptor Liner on a properly prepared surface and using a little common sense to take care of little coating issues before they become big corrosion issues.

One 4-liter kit can easily do one complete side of the floor. You may need a little extra if also doing the firewall and inner sides.

 

[mikey b]

 

[mikey b]

This is raptor liner when it was new ,has held up for about 8 years now.Like Splangy said prep is key to long lasting product.I had a few spots that did not get clean enough and only lasted about 1.5 years,have since repaired and going strong.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

I believe that I used 1- 4 bottle tintable kit for my interior. I then bought 2 more bottles to do the front and rear wheel well.

I had sandblasted my entire tub, etched it, POR-15 .. 2 coats I think. Then put down a POR-15 primer, and then sprayed the liner. The fenders I spray with epoxy primer before sprayed with liner.

 

[workingdog]

It's so pretty. It's like an FJ40, only nicer.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

Mine has held up very well.

 

[Morse_FJ40]

Double post

 

[Splangy]

I had sandblasted my entire tub, etched it, POR-15 .. 2 coats I think. Then put down a POR-15 primer, and then sprayed the liner. The fenders I spray with epoxy primer before sprayed with liner.

More isn’t better. The liner over epoxy approach is best.

 

[jm599]

I think “liner” gets its bad rep from rusty rigs that are not prepped, and lined to cover the rust up. Eventually these rigs fall apart.

If liner is placed over fresh metal, (no rust), over heavy epoxy primer, and sprayed thick, you won’t have regrets later. Wears like iron.
Also the hollow cavities, underside, seams, need to be heavily covered.
Probably best for body-off projects.

Of course clean original survivors, should maybe be preserved and keep out of mud holes and creeks.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I used raptor tinted to my body color on the interior floor. Epoxy primer applied and allowed to set for an hour or so then 3 coats of liner (purchased 4 liter kit so had 1 liter left over). Hopefully doing it this way the epoxy cured / bonded with the raptor.

So far so good...time will tell.

 

[Splangy]

I used raptor tinted to my body color on the interior floor. Epoxy primer applied and allowed to set for an hour or so then 3 coats of liner (purchased 4 liter kit so had 1 liter left over). Hopefully doing it this way the epoxy cured / bonded with the raptor.

So far so good...time will tell.

Most epoxies have a 3 day recoat window so there’s no need to recoat too soon. Your compatible topcoat will chemically bond with the primer anytime within that 3 days. If you wait any longer you’ll have to sand and (usually) apply an additional coat of epoxy before topcoating. The tech sheets for the primer you use will tell you everything you need to know about proper application thickness, recoat window, etc...

Long story short...don’t listen to what some guy on the internet or your buddy’s uncle who used to do body work tells you. Read the tech sheets for the products your using and don’t take shortcuts.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Most epoxies have a 3 day recoat window so there’s no need to recoat too soon. Your compatible topcoat will chemically bond with the primer anytime within that 3 days. If you wait any longer you’ll have to sand and (usually) apply an additional coat of epoxy before topcoating. The tech sheets for the primer you use will tell you everything you need to know about proper application thickness, recoat window, etc...

Long story short...don’t listen to what some guy on the internet or your buddy’s uncle who used to do body work tells you. Read the tech sheets for the products your using and don’t take shortcuts.

Yep. Followed tech sheet based on ambient temp.