How i approached Rebuilding Restoring & Refreshing the HJ61 NON-USA Full Floating rear axel in my 10/88 FJ62LG-PNEK w/ a MTM conversion (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

@ToyotaMatt, this picture is suspect. Something tells me it belongs in the porn thread… 🤣🤣🤣
1672616814206.jpeg
 

The 4 speed transmission with the factory transfer case and the fifth gear spacer is the same length as the H55f. The 4 speed without the spacer is obviously not as long as the H55F.

You say it had a 4 speed originally, then someone installed a 5 speed, and then swapped a 4 speed back into it before you bought it? Is that correct? Maybe I missed it.

I wonder if they used a drive shaft for an older short 4 speed without the spacer? That’s why you have no telescoping action.
 
Last edited:
The 4 speed transmission with the factory transfer case and the fifth gear spacer is the same length as the H55f. The 4 speed without the spacer is obviously not as long as the H55F.


i have been told there may be a slight difference ............maybe

depends if a early H42 cast iron shift tower top plate or a later FJ60 aluminum shifter tower top plate H42 ?

i don't know the answer here , and i need to know before i take a measurement and go to the drive shaft shop ...

i have too many previous issues going on here to guess , the fact remains i took a file and etched a groove on the short telescope t-case side at resting position , and when i pulled rear drive shaft , even after cleaning the splines and telescope i had only about a 1/4" maybe 5/16" more push in free play range , i know this is NOT correct and could cause a bottoming out and subsequent impact of the rear drive drain issue ?

- once the new @cruisermatt diff. is in place , im gonna make sure both front motor mounts and the T-Case rear mount
are not compromised in any way

- then call drive shaft shop and obtain the directions Spec. they need from t-case flange to rear pinion flange ....


- it totally sucks to have to confirm and very each component in such a 100% way ?

- but assume nothing , confirm and verify everything is the path in front of me i am not choosing , it chose me


- the new u-joint that was installed , was installed clocked wrong too , shaft mounted in truck correctly , the zerk fitting is inverted and not greaseable for service , so this fact alone requires a good lookie see by a specialty shop and well you skip the balancing step by choice your a fool .....

- over thanks giving i found a cherry set of real FJ62 drive shafts front and rear for a usa spec, ATM equipped truck ,

- so i have the foundations for a by the book approach , if need be and not rewinding time with rigged trash


- i wonder if its possible the old Diff came out of a FJ40 not a 60 or 62 ? this would explain the whole cross drilling need with old diff multi flange topic too ?
 
My 60 was semi-floating, so I removed it from the car body. It's easier to remove the housing for rust removal and painting. Furthermore, as you can see from my video, the hole where the center bolt of the leaf spring of the housing fits may be large, so it is better to remove it.
 
i have been told there may be a slight difference ............maybe

depends if a early H42 cast iron shift tower top plate or a later FJ60 aluminum shifter tower top plate H42 ?

i don't know the answer here , and i need to know before i take a measurement and go to the drive shaft shop ...

i have too many previous issues going on here to guess , the fact remains i took a file and etched a groove on the short telescope t-case side at resting position , and when i pulled rear drive shaft , even after cleaning the splines and telescope i had only about a 1/4" maybe 5/16" more push in free play range , i know this is NOT correct and could cause a bottoming out and subsequent impact of the rear drive drain issue ?

- once the new @cruisermatt diff. is in place , im gonna make sure both front motor mounts and the T-Case rear mount
are not compromised in any way

- then call drive shaft shop and obtain the directions Spec. they need from t-case flange to rear pinion flange ....


- it totally sucks to have to confirm and very each component in such a 100% way ?

- but assume nothing , confirm and verify everything is the path in front of me i am not choosing , it chose me


- the new u-joint that was installed , was installed clocked wrong too , shaft mounted in truck correctly , the zerk fitting is inverted and not greaseable for service , so this fact alone requires a good lookie see by a specialty shop and well you skip the balancing step by choice your a fool .....

- over thanks giving i found a cherry set of real FJ62 drive shafts front and rear for a usa spec, ATM equipped truck ,

- so i have the foundations for a by the book approach , if need be and not rewinding time with rigged trash


- i wonder if its possible the old Diff came out of a FJ40 not a 60 or 62 ? this would explain the whole cross drilling need with old diff multi flange topic too ?

I’ve not heard anything about an iron top cover vs an aluminum one. I never knew there was an iron version. Would be cool to know more about that deal.

I replaced my u joints years ago and mistakenly installed one of them inverted like you describe. I have to put the truck in neutral and turn the shaft by hand until I can finagle the grease gun onto the zirk. It’s frustrating. I have both shafts out of the truck now. I have had a set of Matsui u joints for years now just waiting till one of the cheap joints fails. I think I will just go ahead and swap them out now while I’m waiting for engine service to be complete.

The lack of slip play in your drive shaft is disconcerting. I wonder if that had anything to do with the pinion flange getting wonky.

I’m not sure what you mean when you say the flange was cross drilled. I have multi flanges on my diffs that I got from cruiseroutfitters. They have several sets of holes for the 40-60 series. Is this what you’re talking about? They were made like that. I’d like to see a picture of this flange issue.
 
H55 and H42/spacer are IDENTICAL length... period.

I would recommend removing the U-bolts, cleaning and painting everything and verifying that the leaf spring center pins, and axle perches are all in good shape and the axle isn't moving on the springs in addition to everything else you are doing
 
Last edited:



Went this route :


- Koken brand stud installer stand alone 10mm x 1.25 socket had a 5-7 day lead time before shipping primary reason ...


- this complete ALL TOYOTA JIS Thread Pitch KIT includes removers too !

- minus the 12mm x 1.5 size spec. ones ....... unless TOYOTA uses them on some application i don't know off top of me head ?

- ill have KIT in my hands
tomorrow morning before 10:30AM , so AMAZON stated in check out notes they provided ....

- AMAZON fast and the wide range applications all inclusive kit , including the installers too , in addition to the removers won the day here ....

- the installer works on same principle , of a steel ball in the inside end contact point detail spec. design ,

- kit has SOLID reviews , we shall see if they get one from
MR. OEM-SST here at the SKUNK-WORKS laboratory service facility or not ? :poof:



Amazon product ASIN B071WXWD57


71Mg2BisZTL._AC_SL1500_.jpg



81LS-cKll3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


Top reviews from the United States​




Ron Ruff
5.0 out of 5 stars Nice set!
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on November 9, 2022
Verified Purchase
Really nice set, worked perfect for installing new studs on my engine build! The case it comes in is perfect to just lay in your toolbox, all tools should come in a case like this! Thx
Helpful
Report abuse

synsilvers
5.0 out of 5 stars Lifesaver
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on April 17, 2022
Verified Purchase
This set was a lifesaver. I needed to get the head and exhaust bolts studs out of a 2 stroke block so I could send the core in. Nothing I tried was working. I was stripping the stud threads and out of options so I bought these as a last ditch effort. It took me a bit to figure out how to use them right but once I did they got all the studs out. I used my Milwaukee 3/8th impact to tighten the stud remover and then to back out the stud. I had to tighten the stud remover really hard but it never damaged the tool or the stud. I can't speak for the longterm durability of this set because I've only used it one.
One person found this helpful
Helpful
Report abuse

Chris
3.0 out of 5 stars Extractor broke on first use
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on April 18, 2020
Verified Purchase
Stud installer is great. I broke one of the extractors the first time I used it. I'm a professional automobile technician for over 20 years so I know what I'm doing. I kind of expected this for a tool at this price and will be replacing with Matco or Snap-on as they break.
2 people found this helpful
Helpful
Report abuse

Daniel
5.0 out of 5 stars A must have for any tech. These are amazing.
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on December 15, 2019
Verified Purchase
These are affordable compared to snap ons set. Which look and I believe are identical to this set. Snap on sells this set for $400.
2 people found this helpful
Helpful
Report abuse

Dwain McArthur
5.0 out of 5 stars Must have for engine mechanics
Reviewed in the United States 🇺🇸 on March 20, 2020
Verified Purchase
Works great. Great addition to my toolbox.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


i chose to ignore the 3 stars review by Chris above , because i was a professional automobile technician 20 years ago and i still don't know what im doing here 🤣
 
Last edited:
What about the studs on the end of the hub to hold the axle on?


Phunny u ask Hunter .......Phunny u ask .. :idea:

i just picked these up this evening from my life long machine shop i use , and i instantly thought of just this / that


more to come here in a few ......

all i got to say is someone banged on my head this morning and said get the all inclusive JIS TOYOTA Size Spec. kit i did ..

ill have it tomorrow at one point to Rock N Roll on these bad boys below with all there

JDM @cruiseroutfit / Cruiser TEq Koyo going on !


pl1378933-koyo_bearing_7306_df_with_a_larger_contact_angle_feature.jpg
 
Matt, really dig the work you’re doing here. Very, very cool rig. Can’t wait to see how it progresses.
 
Matt, really dig the work you’re doing here. Very, very cool rig. Can’t wait to see how it progresses.

Thanks Nick ......


ahhhhhhhh ,
it's progressing alright alright ! :popcorn:

- as we speak im rendering a few TECH video shorts and have a pile of step by step FSM real world pics to post too .....

- i will be starting my multi pronged approach crusade topic here on this next TECH-TIME clip , what the best possible lubrication products on the market today are and how i go about installing them in a TOYOTA OEM full floating axle and why i made these science based conclusions ....

- because when you use and install the worlds BEST hub bearings and races , nothing else matters but just that ...:cool:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom