Hot, hot, hot inside...? (1 Viewer)

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large yellow oval is the heater control vavle it's self.
this vavle is closed, see purple circle.
open WOULD be in the area of the small green circle.

that loop of "wire" is the dash cable(see purple circle) and should be over that stub.


HTH

texasrolex said:
(Although I was laughing out loud at how silly my lack of knowledge sounded..... )

.

so was i....... :flipoff2:
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OK it's not hot until you drive your cruiser in Phoenix AZ when it's only 116 out with the heater valve not working. When you drive in Phx in the summer time it like having a giant hair dryer blowing at you a 50 mph/ You don't get cool that way, but it is a great way to loose weight. My new valve came in today so this weekend it's getting the new valve. I'll let you know how it goes.

Todd
78 FJ40 newbie
 
350-78LandCruiser said:
OK it's not hot until you drive your cruiser in Phoenix AZ when it's only 116


yeah, but what's your dew point?

today,here it was 92* with a 74* dew point, what's that mean? it is HUMID, that's what.
just THINKING about doing something drenchs you in sweat...

i would take dry heat any day.
 
brian said:
yeah, but what's your dew point?

today,here it was 92* with a 74* dew point, what's that mean? it is HUMID, that's what.
just THINKING about doing something drenchs you in sweat...

i would take dry heat any day.


Thats dry bulb minus wet bulb on a sling thermometer

hydroSling.jpg
 
Ok for most of the summer it is a dry heat but not now. I'm not sure of the dew point today but I know it's not 74 but it's close by. From middle of July till mid Sept. it is hot and muggy. Not as bad as the SE I was just there A week ago.
But your right I'll take the dry heat any day. But when it's 116 out nothing helps Not even a wet towel, drys out to fast.

Todd
 
There is a good chance that if your 40 is from Costa Rica, it did not come with a heater.
Some type of heat insulation between you and your tranny/transfer should help out.
Reflectix will work, I like dmaddox suggestion of putting it under the tranny hump.
Be mindfull that you want air to flow through there. Don't just stuff it full.
Also be sure you have fresh fluids in the gear boxes.
I would imagine that if you rhino both the inside and underside of the cab it would help,
though I don't have personal experience with this.
 
I installed a simple lever shut off valve in the hot water hose just before the fire wall. In the summer I just shut off any water going into the cab. I still get hot air from the tranny (will put some heat shield over it) and from somewhere under the dash. there is too much stuff on the interior firewall to put heat shield on. I am not sure how to fix that.
Does anyone have an opinion of the vents that are on the fire wall. Can I just cover those with gaffers tape?
 
On my 55, I thought coolant was still flowing through my heater valve because my heater was always hot, even with the valve shut. So I bypassed the heater core completely for a summer time fix (105 degrees and thunderstorms every day lately). But, I was mistaken. It was just hot from the heat transmitting from the engine compartent, because it is still hot. And that tranny gets just about as hot as the engine from heat transfer. Insulation is the only alternative. I assume heat is the reason toyota put the insulating wrap on the trans hump and the lightly padded upholstery on the inside firewall.
 
A PO had lovingly and painstakingly covered the inside of the firewall and the entire cab with carpet (was ratty by the time I got the cruiser). But, it did hold off the heat quite well. I am currently using his carpet as the template to install insulating mat and more carpet over it (the truck is going to live in Arizona where moisture isn't as much of a problem). It is not that difficult to take things off the firewall and bolt them back on again. Jeg's sells heat resistant shifter boots and tranny hump fabric (Thermo-tec is the manufacturer, no cennection to either vendor).
 
Hard top off -> close heater valve by hand under the hood.
Hard top on -> open heater valve by hand.
:D

Drove a 71 cruiser from Las Vegas to San Jose in July of 1975. I had to dump water from gallon jugs on my feet to keep my shoe soles from melting. I'm pretty sure all the heat shielding and floor matt stuff came after 71. Mine sure didn't have it.
 
granted i don't have a hard on :censor: :grinpimp: just a bikini :cheers:. all that's on the floor is an oem rubber mat and those patchs of tar like stuff. but my mine does'nt get that hot. yeah after extended runs above 50mph the floor gets warm(ok hot) but not shoe melt'n, foot cook'n hot, and that's just after winding the motor up for a bit. around town she's cool, and yes there is header under the hood. no heat from the heater at all, other than when the vavle is open.
 
brian said:
granted i don't have a hard on :censor: :grinpimp: just a bikini :cheers:. all that's on the floor is an oem rubber mat and those patchs of tar like stuff. but my mine does'nt get that hot. yeah after extended runs above 50mph the floor gets warm(ok hot) but not shoe melt'n, foot cook'n hot, and that's just after winding the motor up for a bit. around town she's cool, and yes there is header under the hood. no heat from the heater at all, other than when the vavle is open.
I just finished chipping all that tar stuff the floor and hump on my 75. I'll be interested to see if it makes a difference with noise or heat.

My guess is Costa Rica and the South West get a little warmer than PA. Plus it sounds like the OP is running a HT.
 
My FJ is from South America and it does NOT have a heater/AC system of anytype..
 

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