Hood overhang (1 Viewer)

[FJROSS]

So, I have already slotted the brace where it attaches to the frame on the NOS fender to get the driver side fender down approximately 1/4" due to the bib sitting higher to the cowl. Am I getting too critical with the hood overhang to the bib/fender. I have about a 3/16 overhang on the driver side and an 1/8 on the passenger side with the hood hinge adjusted all the way back to the windshield. When disassembling the 40, the front driver side was definitely hit. I notice that the driver side fender was replaced, and the bib was also tweaked on that side. I had the body shop straighten the bib which is why it's not finish painted. All the other alignments along the sides and across the front are good. I read other post about moving the fender/bib forward which I have tried. I loosened all the bolts where it attaches to the running board and cowl but there is zero movement. Should I be leaving well enough alone??

 

[charliemeyer007]

So what about the hood hinges? An actual off road 4x4 that's like 45 years old is likely not going to line up perfectly everywhere. They weren't all that precise new on the showroom floor. Some pro body guy could adjust/bend/tweak all the stuff into perfectly aligned that will last until you flex the rig off road in 4L.

Your rig looks nice, but I can take mine up an old logging trail to get my elk.

 

[pb4ugo]

Idk, if this helps or if it's correct. When I did this several yrs ago, b4 the panels were painted I tried several different ways to line things up. It was all over the place. My tub was never removed. Was you tub ever removed? If so it could be crooked on the frame. I eventually concentrated on the hood gap where it meets the cowl to get an even gap and centered. I installed the rubber cushions on the bib. The hood was even across the top at the cowl. To help the gap on the sides was the placement of the bib. The frame where the bib hinge sits is sloped, so it's placement effects the hoods gap on the outside edges. I found the gap won't be the same as going across the top but they're close. I bought new stk fenders, I found when I mounted the aprons, I didn't like the gap between them. They're supposed to be tight. My aprons' mounting flanges were tweeked and wouldn't allow the apron to fit tight against to the curvature of the fender. I had to tweak and straighten them for better fitment. You need to fit them because this effects the top of the apron and cowl where they meet. On mine, the rear pointy end of the apron was slightly off preventing it to mount tight to the fender, by tweaking it a little allowed it to move forward by fractions of an inch and overall helped close the gap. I also took advantage of the aprons slotted supports for alignment with the tub. It looks like your pass side apron and fender has a pretty good gap between the two. Your drivers side looks better. I left my fenders a little loose so I could move things around a little bit.

 

[B y r o n]

What does the gap look like between the tube and side panel?

 

[peesalot]

I have had that driver corner hang over for years, aside from complete disassembly of fender & bib & connections to tub at bottom of fender I have not gotten it any better & I've tried. If I was doing it on a clean build I'd start with bib & hood and fill the sides in if that makes sense. My frame is probably twisted a bit as well. Yours is not bad IMO.

 

[White Stripe]

Might be able to loosen the tub bolts and move the tub around

 

[igotta40]

Your cowl is too low, it’s pushing the hood forward. Loosen the body mounting bolts closest to the front, maybe also loosen the mid ones, and carefully jack up the front of the body. You should then see the hood move into place. Put shims into the forward most body mounts. That will raise the body, and by doing so, pull the hood into place. You may need to slightly loosen all the fasteners that assemble the fenders, aprons, bib, etc to make the adjustment. Be very careful, as I see you have already gotten the truck painted. Beautiful color!

 

[65swb45]

/this\ 100%.

If you haven't already done so, measure from your A pillar to B pillar. They should be parallel, but because the whole dash, firewall and cowl float (no body mounts forward of the running board stays), yours may have drooped forwards.

There would be a corresponding small bulge in one or both ends of the rocker panels. IIRC, I had to saw the rocker open on @tlaporte troopie to correct for this.

 

[FJROSS]

Your cowl is too low, it’s pushing the hood forward. Loosen the body mounting bolts closest to the front, maybe also loosen the mid ones, and carefully jack up the front of the body. You should then see the hood move into place. Put shims into the forward most body mounts. That will raise the body, and by doing so, pull the hood into place. You may need to slightly loosen all the fasteners that assemble the fenders, aprons, bib, etc to make the adjustment. Be very careful, as I see you have already gotten the truck painted. Beautiful color!

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Just wondering if you ran into this same issue and if so, how much of a shim you needed to install. I think this might be my next move. I replaced the stock body mounts with Energy Suspension mounts. I guess I will have to loosen the following bolts. Fenders to frame, fenders to cowl, fender to running boards as well as loosening the bib to fenders. I will also check into the other comments from the other MUD members that relied to my post.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Augustiron]

@igotta40 that green looks gorgeous,
More pix?

 

[igotta40]

Just wondering if you ran into this same issue and if so, how much of a shim you needed to install. I think this might be my next move. I replaced the stock body mounts with Energy Suspension mounts. I guess I will have to loosen the following bolts. Fenders to frame, fenders to cowl, fender to running boards as well as loosening the bib to fenders. I will also check into the other comments from the other MUD members that relied to my post.

I'll keep you posted.

Yes I had the same problem, more severe than yours. I’m pretty sure my original mounts had perished, I shimmed them with conveyor belt fabric a little at a time until it was right. Quite a bit, I think 1/2” on one side and 3/4” on the other. I had done major body repairs, though, resulting from rust and a partial rollover. This was a long time ago.

 

[FJROSS]

Yes I had the same problem, more severe than yours. I’m pretty sure my original mounts had perished, I shimmed them with conveyor belt fabric a little at a time until it was right. Quite a bit, I think 1/2” on one side and 3/4” on the other. I had done major body repairs, though, resulting from rust and a partial rollover. This was a long time ago.

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So, your solution worked out well. I added 3/16" shim to each side of the front body mounts and was able to actually dial in the front overhang on the hood with the final tightening of the front body mount bolts on each side. It also helped apron to hood alignment/gap. Thanks to ever body for your help.
Greatly appreciated!

 

[igotta40]

@igotta40 that green looks gorgeous,
More pix?

Here you go. Folks on this site are gonna be tired of seeing this 40

 

[igotta40]

So, your solution worked out well. I added 3/16" shim to each side of the front body mounts and was able to actually dial in the front overhang on the hood with the final tightening of the front body mount bolts on each side. It also helped apron to hood alignment/gap. Thanks to ever body for your help.
Greatly appreciated!

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View attachment 3869702

Excellent!!

 

[cims1970fj40]

Here you go. Folks on this site are gonna be tired of seeing this 40

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Nice looking 40! Where did you buy the footman loops? I read a post that @Living in the Past mentioned that the footman loops that wrap around the corner are longer than the others.

 

[Living in the Past]

Believe they are all the same. They are bent to match the radius of the corner to maintain the same gap between the tub and loop. Straight gap would be narrower in the middle.

 

[igotta40]

Nice looking 40! Where did you buy the footman loops? I read a post that @Living in the Past mentioned that the footman loops that wrap around the corner are longer than the others.

From a random marine supply store near the bay. I wanted stainless steel. I may have shaped the curved ones myself. It’s been a while.