HJ61 12HT Build Up - The Grub
- Thread starter Spudman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Nice. Btw you don't have to cut the exhaust pipe to fit the rear springs. All you need is to remove two screws to loosen the pipe.... two late...
You probably have the same,situation as me with the suspension. If you dont allow the wheel drop down fully, you may seem to have long enough hose and swaybar link.
You shocks might hold the axle from dropping down fully as well. So you d better measure the extended length of the shocks. You need them to be at least 600mm extended to have 3" lift as you wanted with spring and shackle lift.
...via IH8MUD app
You probably have the same,situation as me with the suspension. If you dont allow the wheel drop down fully, you may seem to have long enough hose and swaybar link.
You shocks might hold the axle from dropping down fully as well. So you d better measure the extended length of the shocks. You need them to be at least 600mm extended to have 3" lift as you wanted with spring and shackle lift.
...via IH8MUD app
Last edited:
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #286
Today I decided to make a start on the front end.
First job
Tie Rod Ends, everyone knows how hard they are to get off, so I'm thinking a couple of hours to knock the 4 ends out.
So I started banging with a hammer and after 10 minutes I thought bugger this
so I went and saw my mechanic mate, thinking he might have one of those fork type gizmos 
He actually went one better and lent me his Toyota special tool, it's shaped like a claw with a bolt on top, just do up the bolt and Walla the ends just pop off took me 15 minutes to do all 4
So then I took the tie rods over to his workshop, cleaned them all up and put the new ends on.
An excellent mornings work
First job
Tie Rod Ends, everyone knows how hard they are to get off, so I'm thinking a couple of hours to knock the 4 ends out.
So I started banging with a hammer and after 10 minutes I thought bugger this
so I went and saw my mechanic mate, thinking he might have one of those fork type gizmos He actually went one better and lent me his Toyota special tool, it's shaped like a claw with a bolt on top, just do up the bolt and Walla the ends just pop off took me 15 minutes to do all 4
So then I took the tie rods over to his workshop, cleaned them all up and put the new ends on.
An excellent mornings work
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #287
After lunch I thought I'd start on the hub, front suspension parts still haven't turned up yet
Having a look at the hub, it's pretty obvious that it's been leaking for a while
Took off the free wheeling hub, still abit of grease in there, all looks pretty good
As you can see by this photo, the shockie looks pretty stuffed and when I actually pulled it out it just closed up with no effort
When I removed the hub it was obvious that inside the knuckle was going to be like a babies nappy with diarrhoea
I was about to remove the backing plate when I remembered about someone saying they had to drill the rivets out, well mines got these rivets as well
So I thought easiest method here is to drill them out
So backing plate off, but of build up, but not as bad as the other side will be
So backing plate off and ready to crack the hub
Cracked the hub and yep 3 or 4 babies nappies
Then the piece of resistance soup anyone
Sorry about some of the photos, but my iphone was getting a bit dirty
I then removed the 4 top bolts, popped off the steering arm and removed the 2 shims, then pulled the knuckle off.
Finished for today, tomorrow I'll be going to workshop to clean everything and then the reinstall
Having a look at the hub, it's pretty obvious that it's been leaking for a while
Took off the free wheeling hub, still abit of grease in there, all looks pretty good
As you can see by this photo, the shockie looks pretty stuffed and when I actually pulled it out it just closed up with no effort
When I removed the hub it was obvious that inside the knuckle was going to be like a babies nappy with diarrhoea
I was about to remove the backing plate when I remembered about someone saying they had to drill the rivets out, well mines got these rivets as well
So I thought easiest method here is to drill them out
So backing plate off, but of build up, but not as bad as the other side will be
So backing plate off and ready to crack the hub
Cracked the hub and yep 3 or 4 babies nappies
Then the piece of resistance soup anyone
Sorry about some of the photos, but my iphone was getting a bit dirty
I then removed the 4 top bolts, popped off the steering arm and removed the 2 shims, then pulled the knuckle off.
Finished for today, tomorrow I'll be going to workshop to clean everything and then the reinstall
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
That seal was smashed by an idiot somehow when installing in my HJ: 90311-33085 SEAL DRIVESHAFT type T
if you make this kind of puller it comes out with one pull:
It is a heavy socket 55 that I smash against another opposite ring so that force pulls the seals out without any problem.
How not to insert a seal, or keeping idiots away in past an future...
To install the long axle in the diff is a tricky thing, press with your thump, lift with other fingers:
if you make this kind of puller it comes out with one pull:
It is a heavy socket 55 that I smash against another opposite ring so that force pulls the seals out without any problem.
How not to insert a seal, or keeping idiots away in past an future...
To install the long axle in the diff is a tricky thing, press with your thump, lift with other fingers:
Last edited:
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #290
Hey Sved and HJ60
Thanks for all the information and advice, it is really appreciated.
I purchased a kit ages ago which has all the seals and bearings etc. so everything will be replaced.
I'll be going over to my mechanic mates workshop this morning to use his parts washer, he's then going to show me some tricks to the install and he has another special tool for getting ou and putting in the axle seal without damaging it.
So hopefully will be all good
Thanks for all the information and advice, it is really appreciated.
I purchased a kit ages ago which has all the seals and bearings etc. so everything will be replaced.
I'll be going over to my mechanic mates workshop this morning to use his parts washer, he's then going to show me some tricks to the install and he has another special tool for getting ou and putting in the axle seal without damaging it.
So hopefully will be all good
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Nice job HJ... that is some informative stuff there seeing as this is on the list for this spring/summer.
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #292
Today it rained here all day
Anyway work to be done, so I took all my parts to the workshop and cleaned everything in a parts washer, what an excellent piece of equipment
Then my mechanic gave me a lesson in how to pack bearings, a dollop of grease in the hand and then continuously press down around the bearing until all the grease seeps through
Then I got another lesson in how to pack the CV joint with grease, half a tube packed into that joint
So then it was off home and put everything back together, I used a special tool to remove the axle seal and then another special tool to insert the new seal, it's so easy when done right
Everything went back together so easily, a couple of times I forgot some spring washers and had to back track, but it's all a learning curve
Once finished I then pulled the other side apart to do all the same again tomorrow
Sorry no photos today, I was concentrating too much on getting things right and plus my iphone got fairly dirty yesterday.
I'll take some photos of the install tomorrow
Anyway work to be done, so I took all my parts to the workshop and cleaned everything in a parts washer, what an excellent piece of equipment
Then my mechanic gave me a lesson in how to pack bearings, a dollop of grease in the hand and then continuously press down around the bearing until all the grease seeps through
Then I got another lesson in how to pack the CV joint with grease, half a tube packed into that joint
So then it was off home and put everything back together, I used a special tool to remove the axle seal and then another special tool to insert the new seal, it's so easy when done right
Everything went back together so easily, a couple of times I forgot some spring washers and had to back track, but it's all a learning curve
Once finished I then pulled the other side apart to do all the same again tomorrow
Sorry no photos today, I was concentrating too much on getting things right and plus my iphone got fairly dirty yesterday.
I'll take some photos of the install tomorrow
Wow you don't waste a minute do you spud???
Man you are on fire at the moment!
Looking good, I have no issues with sound in the cabin but just looking at your deadening job I want it! Also I'm just about to dog proof the back of the crusher and pallet wrap the genuine gear for inventory and I've been checking Kev's job he does for his wagon gear product....can anyone say drool???
http://wagongear.com/shop/side-panels/
http://wagongear.com/shop/tailgate-lids/
Your cargo area and door card comments got me thinking about it. Any way I've got half a dozen sheets of 3mm ABS hair cell and 4.5mm UHMWPE in matte both in black which I hope to cut to size an create both the cargo panel trims and the tailgate trim plus the back of the seat trim all in tribute to Kevin's product because let's face it I'm poor and can't afford to have Kev produce and ship his beautiful product to me.
Couple that with a freshly purchased sandgrabba cargo mat:
http://www.nobullaccessories.com.au/sandgrabba-floor-mats/sandgrabber
annnnd I think I'll be dog proof! But that brings me back to 3 things (to avoid hijacking your thread....... I'll have to start my own on the cargo area)
1) Rear drawers- I'm got them they're great but 3 years on they have a lot of good stuff and a lot of junk and they are bloody heavy!!! So now they're gone....
2) Wheels- I've had the same problem (80 series GXL wheels) and I had 2" billet spacers and after a few months of wondering if they were going to crack at 100kph I ditched them. There is a reason they are not legal to run. But they did look super sexy and I still have them sitting in the garage. Lesson here is buy new wheels.....some time in the future.
3) Winch- yep you can't really fit a decent sized winch behind the alloy bar because they fair lead cut out is primarily for the PTO setup. I would strongly advise against welding a chassis extension because they will be fun when it flys off during winching or snatching operations and also it is illegal without mod plates and X-ray.
I would strongly recommend a new bar because let's face it a steel bar just looks better and you can customise it to look insane.
On another side note, we used to mount winches to a cross member under the vehicle in comp trucks and run rotating eye bolts in the front and rear under the vehicle with a quick disco shackle then we would just have two fair leads front and rear where we would redirect the cable to for recovery. Not sure on its legality but it worked a treat. No a days though I can't remember the last time I saw a winch used in a comp, only the boat winch to take up the corners for springless gas runners.
Bottomline- build or buy a new bar.
So all this sounds expensive but really doesn't have to be if you do all the work yourself which you seem to take well in your stride spud.
And allow me to take issue with the term "redneck" here we have a different term which I'm sure you're well aware of spud seeing as you had to move the donor 60 to get the project 60 out then winch the run away 60 out with the 200 (vague castle quote), here we are known as cashed up bogans.
Wow sorry that was a long post.
Man you are on fire at the moment!
Looking good, I have no issues with sound in the cabin but just looking at your deadening job I want it! Also I'm just about to dog proof the back of the crusher and pallet wrap the genuine gear for inventory and I've been checking Kev's job he does for his wagon gear product....can anyone say drool???
http://wagongear.com/shop/side-panels/
http://wagongear.com/shop/tailgate-lids/
Your cargo area and door card comments got me thinking about it. Any way I've got half a dozen sheets of 3mm ABS hair cell and 4.5mm UHMWPE in matte both in black which I hope to cut to size an create both the cargo panel trims and the tailgate trim plus the back of the seat trim all in tribute to Kevin's product because let's face it I'm poor and can't afford to have Kev produce and ship his beautiful product to me.
Couple that with a freshly purchased sandgrabba cargo mat:
http://www.nobullaccessories.com.au/sandgrabba-floor-mats/sandgrabber
annnnd I think I'll be dog proof! But that brings me back to 3 things (to avoid hijacking your thread....... I'll have to start my own on the cargo area)
1) Rear drawers- I'm got them they're great but 3 years on they have a lot of good stuff and a lot of junk and they are bloody heavy!!! So now they're gone....
2) Wheels- I've had the same problem (80 series GXL wheels) and I had 2" billet spacers and after a few months of wondering if they were going to crack at 100kph I ditched them. There is a reason they are not legal to run. But they did look super sexy and I still have them sitting in the garage. Lesson here is buy new wheels.....some time in the future.
3) Winch- yep you can't really fit a decent sized winch behind the alloy bar because they fair lead cut out is primarily for the PTO setup. I would strongly advise against welding a chassis extension because they will be fun when it flys off during winching or snatching operations and also it is illegal without mod plates and X-ray.
I would strongly recommend a new bar because let's face it a steel bar just looks better and you can customise it to look insane.
On another side note, we used to mount winches to a cross member under the vehicle in comp trucks and run rotating eye bolts in the front and rear under the vehicle with a quick disco shackle then we would just have two fair leads front and rear where we would redirect the cable to for recovery. Not sure on its legality but it worked a treat. No a days though I can't remember the last time I saw a winch used in a comp, only the boat winch to take up the corners for springless gas runners.
Bottomline- build or buy a new bar.
So all this sounds expensive but really doesn't have to be if you do all the work yourself which you seem to take well in your stride spud.
And allow me to take issue with the term "redneck" here we have a different term which I'm sure you're well aware of spud seeing as you had to move the donor 60 to get the project 60 out then winch the run away 60 out with the 200 (vague castle quote), here we are known as cashed up bogans.
Wow sorry that was a long post.
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #296
Hey Crick
Thanks for the comments mate, appreciated.
I think I'll make my own custom sides, those ones from Kev are nice but expensive
Yep I know what you are saying about drawers, but I'll custom build my own, done it a few times and so far turned out really well
I didn't think about the winch bar, like that, so yep I'll keep looking for a steel bar, there's quite a few 75 and 80 series steel bars here, so I may have to fabricate the brackets.
No cashed up bogans here
Thanks for the comments mate, appreciated.
I think I'll make my own custom sides, those ones from Kev are nice but expensive
Yep I know what you are saying about drawers, but I'll custom build my own, done it a few times and so far turned out really well
I didn't think about the winch bar, like that, so yep I'll keep looking for a steel bar, there's quite a few 75 and 80 series steel bars here, so I may have to fabricate the brackets.
No cashed up bogans here
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #297
Today I took the parts again to workshop and cleaned them all up and then went back home and put it all back together, went together easier the second time.
Sorry no photos today, this is what I had to contend with all day
If you are going to ever do your hub seals and knuckles there are 2 tools I'd definitely recommend you purchase before starting
1. Axle seal removal tool
2. Axle seal insertion tool
Both work a treat and so simple
Also the rest of my suspension turned up today
so tomorrow is another day.
Sorry no photos today, this is what I had to contend with all day
If you are going to ever do your hub seals and knuckles there are 2 tools I'd definitely recommend you purchase before starting
1. Axle seal removal tool
2. Axle seal insertion tool
Both work a treat and so simple
Also the rest of my suspension turned up today
so tomorrow is another day.
Spudman
Addicted to 60's
- Thread starter
- #300
So the rain decided to give today a miss
First thing I had to do was reseal all the roof rack bolts on my 200, three days of rain finally got thru, but hey that's another story
So I pulled the front springs out, replaced all the bushes and fitted extended front shackles and the new shock absorbers
Regards
Spudman
First thing I had to do was reseal all the roof rack bolts on my 200, three days of rain finally got thru, but hey that's another story
So I pulled the front springs out, replaced all the bushes and fitted extended front shackles and the new shock absorbers
Regards
Spudman
