HJ60 newbie here (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Threads
6
Messages
26
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hi all,

I'm a life long gearhead who has just picked up my first 60 series. I reckon they are the sweet spot for functionality/comfort for the land cruisers.

My background is with Nissan Skyline/Silvia/Fairladys etc. So this will be my first off road vehicle. Already learning loads off this forum.

Vehicle specs:
1985 HJ60 High Roof Sahara. Australian Spec as far as I can tell.
2h with aftermarket ARB turbo
Stock everything else.

It's spent the past 3 months living a hard life with backpackers, but the body is good with rust repairs being completed and an OK respray being done.

Now for the bad news. Below is a list of repairs the mechanic has identified to just get the vehicle road worthy. It runs and drives right now, but it smells like diesel inside the car and it huge clouds of smoke blow when I accelerate :)

List of Land Cruiser repairs:
Suspension:
Swivel hubs
Rear sway bar link bushes u/s
Pulls to the left
Steering wheel not straight
Adjust, repack, replace all wheel bearings
L/H rear puncture
L/H front axle seal
Movement in front uni's and rear uni's
Front sway links worn
Front shocks L/H bush gone
Rear shock L/H bottom bush u/s and washer bent
Rear diff oil discoloured
Rear wheel cylinders leak
Drum brakes repair/replace

Engine:
Valve clearances need doing
All belts u/s
Radiator top tank
Oil leaks - rear main? sides of block
Oil leak at rear of alternator, turbo return at sump or front diff
Water pump leaking
Dump pipe loose

Transmission:
Has gearbox to transfer bypass hose

Smaller items I can repair:
Washers not working
R/H mirror cover loose
Clutch and brake fluid due
Cooling system flush
Catch can wrapped with rags
Adjust handbrake
Chassis surface rust
Clutch fluid empty

Rust/Body:
Rear chassis surface rust at rear bumper
Exhaust rubs on diff and chassis

I'll be digging through the forum for more answers, but if anyone notices something in the list that can be replaced all as one unit or that would be easier to just buy new, please shout out. I'm keen to do as much as I can on this vehicle.
 
All of that looks pretty standard for a 30 year old vehicle. Most of it is pretty simple with some time and some basic tools if you aren't fussed about getting covered in crap.
Plenty of threads about the front end on here away bar bushes are cheap and easy same with the shock bushes. Exhaust may just have a broken mount.

Did they say anything about where the fuel smell is coming from?
 
The 60 series are super easy to work on. I don't know your level of experience or the size of your tool box - but the good news is you have so many small items to address you can work our way up in difficulty. Just read read read here it's all been documented.

As far as the motor - you'll find much more advice on that down in the diesel sub-forum. Lots of Aus and Kiwi experts down there so you might want to do an introduction thread down there too.

Have fun.
 
Pics or it did not happen. Welcome to Mud:flipoff2:. 24v or 12v? If 24v check batteries as well. If you need to replace one, replace both at the same time.
 
Sway bars? Don’t need them.
 
Cheers for the welcome guys.

I'm defintely going to start on the smaller stuff. No worries on getting dirty, that's just part of working on cars 😀

Tools wise, I've got most things except a engine crane and motor stand.

I am wondering if my axle stands need to be upgraded to accomodate for the extra weight of the cruiser.

Good to hear that it's easy to work on. After the 300zx I'd be glad for a bit of ease.
$_1-6.JPG
 
Cool man. Have an HJ60 similar to yours I am going to turbo. Can you shoot me pics of your turbo install? What boost are you running? How long has it been turboed?

001D8E38-8A1A-47C9-B44F-FD653A89B557.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Any thing had to be easy after working on a fairlady. Snorkel on the passengers side what short of Airbox has it got. The extra crossover always seemed a bit silly to me.
 
Does ARB sell a turbo or is that a turbo with an ARB sticker on it? Either way, nice truck!
 
I honestly have no idea. I think it's an ARB kit because one of the bits is stamped with ARB. And it looks pretty decent, if a bit old.
 
Finally got around to doing a compression test.

Results from a warm (ran it until the engine got up to temp. But did the comp test 45mins after) engine are:

  1. 420 - 440
  2. 450 - 420
  3. 390 - 420
  4. 425 - 440
  5. 420 - 440
  6. 450 - 430
Did the test twice just to make sure. Looks pretty good.

But the glow plugs look pretty fouled up though. Should I be changing them?
1999424
 
Yep, normal looking glow plugs. If stuff builds up on them, they can be hard to remove from the engine, so carefully clean off any crunchy bits clinging on and reinstall.

How's your diesel smell in the cab? - that's what stood out to be as being a potential leakage problem in your first post.
I've had my truck for 14 years, and it's never smelled like diesel inside, except for once when I reinstalled some injectors and they were leaking a bit...
 
Thanks guys. Good to hear they're ok. Reinstalled them.

Diesel smell is actually improved a lot after I did a big clean in the interior :p. I'm wondering if the previous owner spilt something in there (backpackers).

Time to do the belts and leaky water pump now.
 
Last edited:
I am wondering if my axle stands need to be upgraded to accomodate for the extra weight of the cruiser.

"Axle stands"? Here in Merica Land we call them "Jack Stands". And if you don't want to die you should use at least 6 ton.

Read this thread if you think 3 tons are enough.

Good luck with the rig. Looks great.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom