HJ60 build up/restoration (2 Viewers)

[treerootCO]

I don't think temp would make a difference but it would be cool to do that roof white.. I think the high roof would esp stand out

I'm sure we can photochop that..

white...

 

[treerootCO]

more white...

 

[Hawke]

Incredible. Congratulations.

 

[Diescipel]

This thing makes me miss my ole FJ60.... a little..... until I remember it was only an FJ....

Awesome job, thanks for sharing the photos and knowledge.

B

 

[dieselbigot]

holy crap I like that thing!! Love the high roof. Yep...you gotta stick with factory paint Jan...including the Yota 3rd world disco strips...love those.

man, this is getting me motivated to work on my 62

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

more white...

Great, thanks!
Jan

 

[Tapage]

I thought ( apart is a awesome job ) if you want to change the factory color, go white ..

 

[gavin]

Thanks

This is a great thread, thanks for the dedicated documentation. Absolutely gorgeous job, man am I jealous...not of what you started with, but certainly of what you ended up with. Congratulations.

 

[tlcruiserman]

I think we found something worse than a truck with a lot of visual problems like engine, rust, etc. This truck was very sound in the body department and most of the drive train, very very little rust. However it must have been very neglected or used beyond normal limits because everything in this truck did not work, and needed fixing. Even down to the rear windshield washers had to be fixed. I think spending most of its life in Honduras it paid its dues from lack of correct parts to poor work done on the truck. I could talk about all the stupid stuff that did not work for hours. So when I tell you that a lot of work went into this truck it is more than the average restoration. Jan & Gina spent countless hours on just stupid silly stuff on this truck, I think there is maybe a few 12mm bolts that were not replaced, but I am just guessing that may be the case.



Great Work Jan and Gina

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I think we found something worse than a truck with a lot of visual problems like engine, rust, etc. This truck was very sound in the body department and most of the drive train, very very little rust. However it must have been very neglected or used beyond normal limits because everything in this truck did not work, and needed fixing. Even down to the rear windshield washers had to be fixed. I think spending most of its life in Honduras it paid its dues from lack of correct parts to poor work done on the truck. I could talk about all the stupid stuff that did not work for hours. So when I tell you that a lot of work went into this truck it is more than the average restoration. Jan & Gina spent countless hours on just stupid silly stuff on this truck, I think there is maybe a few 12mm bolts that were not replaced, but I am just guessing that may be the case.



Great Work Jan and Gina

Great work Michael

 

[beauh]

Jan, the truck looks awesome!!! As you know, I'm moving down to Honduras with my wife and my '88 HJ61. We hope to see many more cruisers down there. None in the condition that you've restored this beauty to though!

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Here is an update:
We got the truck drivable this weekend. We fixed the power door locks (the switch wad irty and the wiring the usual hack job). It got a new slave cylinder, and the brakes needed to be re-bled. Then we replaced the rear windshield washer hose (what an enormous pain!), and put the hood back on.
It drove beautifully, with lots of power, but developed an annnoying problem on the way home from Michael's garage: The fuel control relay would double click, and then the truck lost power for a fraction of a second. This made it hard to drive, especially uphill.
We had a smilar problem before, right after we dropped the engine in, and it was ground related. Therefore I cleaned up the ground from the new clutch slave to the frame, and also installed a new ground from the edic housing to the frame. this fixed the problem.

The truck is clearly overfueling, since it puts out a huge amount of black smoke under load at higher RPMs. Anyone a picture of the adjustment system?

In the mornings when it is cold (0 Celsius, which we call cold here in San Diego ) the power steering fluid bubbles out of the reservoir. This is apparently due to wrong fluid, I put in regular power steering fluid instead of Dextron 2 ATF-we'll fix that on the weekend.

It needs a stereo, but has no brackets. Does anyone have the info how the original radio was anchored under the dash?

I'll update as we go along, and then of course about the turbo install.
Thanks
Jan

 

[tlcruiserman]

Here is an update:
We got the truck drivable this weekend. We fixed the power door locks (the switch wad irty and the wiring the usual hack job). It got a new slave cylinder, and the brakes needed to be re-bled. Then we replaced the rear windshield washer hose (what an enormous pain!), and put the hood back on.
It drove beautifully, with lots of power, but developed an annnoying problem on the way home from Michael's garage: The fuel control relay would double click, and then the truck lost power for a fraction of a second. This made it hard to drive, especially uphill.
We had a smilar problem before, right after we dropped the engine in, and it was ground related. Therefore I cleaned up the ground from the new clutch slave to the frame, and also installed a new ground from the edic housing to the frame. this fixed the problem.

The truck is clearly overfueling, since it puts out a huge amount of black smoke under load at higher RPMs. Anyone a picture of the adjustment system?

In the mornings when it is cold (0 Celsius, which we call cold here in San Diego ) the power steering fluid bubbles out of the reservoir. This is apparently due to wrong fluid, I put in regular power steering fluid instead of Dextron 2 ATF-we'll fix that on the weekend.

It needs a stereo, but has no brackets. Does anyone have the info how the original radio was anchored under the dash?

I'll update as we go along, and then of course about the turbo install.
Thanks
Jan

Jan the adjustment for the fuel is the same as your 70 series. I think it is the altitude compensator or a screw above that.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[zander]

Here is an update:
It needs a stereo, but has no brackets. Does anyone have the info how the original radio was anchored under the dash?

I just did this in my HJ60. I put in a 24-12v converter (by Solar Converter) see pics here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=487167&postcount=19

That thread is a great source all around for radio install as well.

The radio bracket was kind of a pain. I accessed everything through the heater control panel which makes it a bit fiddly.

The factory radio is mounted with some very specific and non standard brackets that hang down from the dash which wont work with a modern radio. (you could also just use some metal right angle brackets that might even work the best here, there should be bolt studs hanging down for the factory brackets) I took those out and bent the tabs sideways to give a good side bolting option which I wanted to screw to the new slide in radio housing. I could not get that work well however.

The best solution I came up with was to use the metal banding with all the holes in it (I think called plumbers tape) and form it around the slide in chassis of the new radio and bolt that to the hanging brackets i had bent to allow the radio to slide in. Then slide the radio into the bracket and attach the facia. Its worked fine even in off road conditions and looks as clean as can be. I think it also offers a bit of shock absorbtion as the rear of the radio has a bit of flexibility.

I also added an ipod controller that puts the ipod into the glove box and the whole thing is controlled from the head unit which also works out very well.

Another note is that the Toyota speaker wiring run a shared ground which doesnt work with modern radios. You need to run a separate ground to each speaker from the radio or at least not use the shared one.

Thanks for all your great posting on this project. Its been inspiring. I am curious about your power locks. Are those factory? I would love to get some 24v power lock units for my rig but never found the right source.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I am curious about your power locks. Are those factory? I would love to get some 24v power lock units for my rig but never found the right source.

Thank you for the information!
The power locks are factory, and the truck does not have power windows. The setup is factory and similar to an FJ62, with a solenoid in every door, and 2 relays in the trunk wall. They are activated by a single switch on the drivers door.
The truck is 12V though, and from Honduras, and has a number of options that were not available in the USA.
Jan

 

[tlcruiserman]

Thank you for the information!
The power locks are factory, and the truck does not have power windows. The setup is factory and similar to an FJ62, with a solenoid in every door, and 2 relays in the trunk wall. They are activated by a single switch on the drivers door.
The truck is 12V though, and from Honduras, and has a number of options that were not available in the USA.
Jan

Ok , I am not sure but I would have to put the split bench as a cooler option than the high roof. But just my 2 cnets

Michael

 

[crushers]

there are 2 different brackets for the HJ61 radio support. you can order the ones from toyota that work excellent with the "modern" radios. get the ones for the BJ60 CND model or the larger ones for the HJ61...
the radio mounts with no problem at all.
cheers

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

there are 2 different brackets for the HJ61 radio support. you can order the ones from toyota that work excellent with the "modern" radios. get the ones for the BJ60 CND model or the larger ones for the HJ61...
the radio mounts with no problem at all.
cheers

Thanks Wayne!
Jan

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Now on to the turbo:

Here is the long delayed continuation of the HJ60 build up, particularely the Turbo installation.
We installed the turbo in Michael's (aka tlcruiserman's) shop, and fit time was about a day. That included taking the manifold off 2 times, since I put the manifold studs in the wrong way, and later realized it would be much easier with the brake booster off.
In the process Michael sandblasted and painted the valve cover, to match it with the black turbo pipes, and to give the engine the clean look it deserves with only 30k miles on the clock.

The turbo is a unit from Turboglide, and consists of the complete setup (Garrett CT28 turbo, manifold, wastegate, oil lines...), but obviously not the new exhaust system. The unit is very well built, and designed to run at 10psi.

Here is the turbo and the hoses.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

The oil return is welded into the rear side cover.