High steer with manual gear box and original knuckles with disk brake conversion? (1 Viewer)

[Ron Rico]

My truck has 35's (and lifted obviously) but has serious janky steering linkage set up. the bump steer can be absolutely violent and terrifying. Basically shouldn't drive the truck and ready to tackle the problem.

Everything Ive read it sounds like high steer geometry will alleviate much of the problems so Im researching and intend to pursue that... If I understand doing the high steer will also make it crossover???
Also can't find much on MUD other than Luke at 4x4 Labs but that's old news and he aint around anymore.

if I retain my factory knuckles (1971 with disk conversion) can I use Trail Gear high steer arms?
Yota masters sight implies yes: Toyota High Steer Arms - https://www.yotamasters.com/products/toyota-high-steer-arms?variant=41484598116470

But then Trail Gear sight says no? FJ40 Land Cruiser High Steer Kits - https://trail-gear.com/fj40-high-steer-kit-with-4-stud-steering-arms.html
is that because they assume you have drums up front???

I don't intend to do intense crawling. Maybe some trails now n then but really just trying to correct the problem so I can go to the farmers market on Saturdays and not risk life.

I know some phones calls can help sort this out but its Saturday so looking for some knowledgable advise here.
Any forum links to check? Any advise?

Basically what set up do I need without doing a knuckle swap? Seems like Trail Gear high steer with FJ80 links is the way to go if it can bolt up?

thanks guys
Also any pictures of set ups would be hugely helpful.

 

[pb4ugo]

I think the problem you'll find is the aftermarket high steer arms are made for large pattern disc brake knuckles. Back in the day folks would fabricate and weld up double high steer arms. It seems a little sketchy to me. I did a quick internet search and found this link. I'm sure there are more out there.

fabbing up high steer arms?

Here goes: I have read all the tech and checked the search. SO please no do a search. Been reading for hours and can't find the info. No one seems to want to talk much about cutting and welding the steering arms to make High steer arms. Rob mentions and shows a shot in the tec...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jim land]

Some pics of your front suspension and steering box location is need for real help , too much possibility, ( SOA or SUA , where and how the box is install )
Maybe you only need a drop pitman arm, with no pics or info we can only assume what is your setup

 

[peesalot]

Luke is still around. The drum knuckle has a smaller pattern for the studs that hold steering arm & the studs are smaller, ( 11mm instead of 12mm)
There are some hi-steer drum arms around. I know Mudrak has a few on his wall. If anyone has or can get a set of Lukes arms that would be Georg ( orangefj45 ).
Have not seen alot of bump steer but I know that loose/bad shackle bushings and loose trunions will amplify steering issues. Wouldn't hurt to check those as well.

 

[numby]

Maybe you only need a drop pitman arm

Yeah, this.

The bump steer could also be affected by bad caster angles. Some shims might help.

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

I have a set of large stud knuckles and SA hubs from a '85 4runner if you decide to upgrade while you do it. May have some other bits, I replaced my whole set up with 6 studs and new parts.

4x4 labs arms are the way to go. Luke is pretty responsive via email.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I did a FROR high steer kit with the larger bearings and trunnions with FJ60 knuckles which have a larger pattern and larger studs I also did a big brake kit from Red Line to provide better braking and widen the track to match the rear FJ60 axle. The price for used FJ60 knuckle was not bad and if you are rebuilding the outer axle it is not that hard to do.

I also installed FJ80 power steering with DOM tubing and FJ80 TREs.

I am not done with the build so I have not been able to drive it yet and was looking to get rid of the bump steer with the original steering set up with the steering back close to the fire wall.

 

[Ron Rico]

Some pics of your front suspension and steering box location is need for real help , too much possibility, ( SOA or SUA , where and how the box is install )
Maybe you only need a drop pitman arm, with no pics or info we can only assume what is your setup

OK - here’s the crazy town I inherited when I picked up this rig:
For starters and to clarify it’s a left hand drive.
Basically shade tree high steer job before the internet was invented is my best guess.

Steering arms have been moved to the bottom and right side top has been flipped- so that makes 3 steering arms! The tie rod and the relay rod are therefore independent of one another - see the pics.

I suspect the “engineer” of this was afraid the angle from the center arm to the right side tie rod end with eyelet for relay rod was too great and thus the “3rd arm” on top??? Honestly doesn’t seem too excessive - but I could be wrong.

I assume the pitman arm is factory- it is about 6.5” center to center and has about 1.75” of drop.

The drag link is bent so intend to replace that and the tie rod from center arm to flipped top rh steering arm is also bent, so will replace and then intend to get Man Fre kit Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit for 1958-1984 4x-Series Land Cruisers - Landcruiser Parts - https://manafrelv.com/product/man-a-fre-super-heavy-duty-tie-rod-kit-40-series/

I’m going to attempt to correct these issues with this before starting over with knuckle swap. Again mostly just trying to drive around town safely.

Current path of least resistance would seem to be:
Replace bent drag link bar.
Replace all tie rod ends (manager kit)
Delete RH top steering arm
Replace tie rod(manager)
Connect tie rod from center arm to relay rod end tie with eyelet.
Replace OEM stabilizer with old man emu.
Install sky jacker add on stabilizer to relay rod n axle.

Thoughts???

 

[POPO AGIE]

That is a mess. That does not even look safe.

 

[Ron Rico]

That is a mess. That does not even look safe.

Correct…

 

[Ron Rico]

OK - here’s the crazy town I inherited when I picked up this rig:
For starters and to clarify it’s a left hand drive.
Basically shade tree high steer job before the internet was invented is my best guess.

Steering arms have been moved to the bottom and right side top has been flipped- so that makes 3 steering arms! The tie rod and the relay rod are therefore independent of one another - see the pics.

I suspect the “engineer” of this was afraid the angle from the center arm to the right side tie rod end with eyelet for relay rod was too great and thus the “3rd arm” on top??? Honestly doesn’t seem too excessive - but I could be wrong.

I assume the pitman arm is factory- it is about 6.5” center to center and has about 1.75” of drop.

The drag link is bent so intend to replace that and the tie rod from center arm to flipped top rh steering arm is also bent, so will replace and then intend to get Man Fre kit Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit for 1958-1984 4x-Series Land Cruisers - Landcruiser Parts - https://manafrelv.com/product/man-a-fre-super-heavy-duty-tie-rod-kit-40-series/

I’m going to attempt to correct these issues with this before starting over with knuckle swap. Again mostly just trying to drive around town safely.

Current path of least resistance would seem to be:
Replace bent drag link bar.
Replace all tie rod ends (manager kit)
Delete RH top steering arm
Replace tie rod(manager)
Connect tie rod from center arm to relay rod end tie with eyelet.
Replace OEM stabilizer with old man emu.
Install sky jacker add on stabilizer to relay rod n axle.

Thoughts???

View attachment 3887978

View attachment 3887979

View attachment 3887980

View attachment 3887981

View attachment 3887982

Man a Fre kit - not “manager kit.”

 

[POPO AGIE]

do a tear down and start over.

 

[jim land]

Ackermann angle