High quality (OE or better) Rotor advice solicited

[hammerheadfistpunch]

I had stock pads I want to put on but tearing into it I see I need new rotors too. Anyone know of the best rotor for a stock pad? Akebono? EBC? Stop tech? etc.

I could go with OE again, but I thought I would try something new.

 

[proteolytic]

Most folks on here tend to really like and recommend Toyota rotors. Pad recommendations are more varied.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Most folks on here tend to really like and recommend Toyota rotors. Pad recommendations are more varied.

I like the OE rotors fine, but I'm ready to see if slotted or something will improve my performance.

 

[I Lean]

I like the OE rotors fine, but I'm ready to see if slotted or something will improve my performance.

Larger rotors and calipers will improve your performance....

I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!!

With the lackluster 80 series brakes and all the excess weight, extra power on tap with forced induction and a few close calls...I have wanted to get some better braking performance. I have already moved to 17” wheels, so rotor diameter is not limited like with the stock 16” wheels. My goal...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dan1554]

Picked up the EBC slotted/dimpled rotors (w/ EBC pad), like em so far. Way better than my factory warped discs, but I guess anything would be.

 

[Heckraiser]

I don't think slotted or cross drilled rotors really have any advantage in this application. In a racing application where heat-shedding is important, sure, but if you're stomping your brakes at +90% force every 20 seconds or so, you probably don't know how to drive

I used to have powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and actually burned through them in about 30k miles (worn to the point they were too thin to be used). Now bear in mind, part of that time was while my LSPV was outta whack. I also tow a camper without trailer brakes occasionally. But I felt no performance advantage to the slots or holes.

In the course of my ownership of those rotors I also got stuck in a serious mud hole at one point during a sloppy spring blizzard. I had to take the wheels off and spend a good hour or two with compressed air and various screwdrivers, etc, to get all the debris out of the holes.

So when they wore out, I got regular blank rotors. Just one guy's opinion

 

[iptman]

I bought Brembo rotors last time and they're on their second set of OEM pads. Less than half the cost of OEM. Doing great.

 

[Irish Reiver]

I tried the slotted Stoptech rotors. Wasn't hugely impressed. Gone back to OEM pads and will in time go back to OEM. rotors. OEM stuff is comparable price wise and as good if not better performance wise.

 

[brockdeck]

Lots and lots of threads on this but I know they are old.

I think most people recommend OEM Toyota, but there are plenty of aftermarket options that are decent quality. I ran drilled/slotted, was not a fan. Currently running solid rotors all 4 corners, OE Advics pads which have actually been great and a bit cheaper. I would go slotted over drilled and slotted, almost all aftermarket rotors are made in China, so good luck finding ones at a decent price that are not. Slotted or solid seems to be the way to go on these beasts at least from what I have read and gathered over the years. OEM Toyota rotors are the best IMO, but you will probably be just fine with a quality brand rotor and OEM, OE (Advics/Aisin, Sumitomo, Akebeno etc) or EBC Greenstuff pads.

Take a good look at the condition of your whole system (brake fluid, booster, check valve, vaccum, brake lines, master, LSPV, calipers). You will be surprised how well these things stop even on big tires when things are dialed in correctly. Lots and lots of people throw pads and rotors at brake systems only to finally figure out there was something else causing an issue.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Larger rotors and calipers will improve your performance....

I Like Big Brakes and I Cannot Lie!!!

With the lackluster 80 series brakes and all the excess weight, extra power on tap with forced induction and a few close calls...I have wanted to get some better braking performance. I have already moved to 17” wheels, so rotor diameter is not limited like with the stock 16” wheels. My goal...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thats a cool mod, but more than I want to tackle.

 

[Bambusiero]

I have Powerstop slotted & drilled like @Heckraiser mentions, but only because the rotor/pad package price was pretty good, and I needed to replace the old warped rotors. I would have preferred/chosen non-drilled, otherwise. The Powerstop pads are modern formula ceramic and friction coefficient and linear feel has been excellent, also, rotor wear is noticeably less (almost zero, so far) than the EBC greenstuff that I had for a long time before. Those steadily abraded/consumed the rotor.
It's pretty well recognized that cross,drilling(especially), and maybe slots, too, for an offroad vehicle, are just a place to catch rocks&dirt. It's an obsolete idea, meant to bleed off the brake-fade causing gas bearing, due to the old organic pad formulas getting heated above their material design temperature and outgassing.
I may have a problem someday by getting rocks or dirt stuck in there and grinding things up. OK so far.
With the modern ceramic formula pads, I think solid vs cross-drilled/slotted rotors is now completely irrelevant to brake performance. Maybe I'll learn different someday?
cross-drilled/slotted rotors is now a marketing gimmick that works because we've all become convinced it's "high performance".

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

Lots and lots of threads on this but I know they are old.

I think most people recommend OEM Toyota, but there are plenty of aftermarket options that are decent quality. I ran drilled/slotted, was not a fan. Currently running solid rotors all 4 corners, OE Advics pads which have actually been great and a bit cheaper. I would go slotted over drilled and slotted, almost all aftermarket rotors are made in China, so good luck finding ones at a decent price that are not. Slotted or solid seems to be the way to go on these beasts at least from what I have read and gathered over the years. OEM Toyota rotors are the best IMO, but you will probably be just fine with a quality brand rotor and OEM, OE (Advics/Aisin, Sumitomo, Akebeno etc) or EBC Greenstuff pads.

Take a good look at the condition of your whole system (brake fluid, booster, check valve, vaccum, brake lines, master, LSPV, calipers). You will be surprised how well these things stop even on big tires when things are dialed in correctly. Lots and lots of people throw pads and rotors at brake systems only to finally figure out there was something else causing an issue.

Im actually pretty happy with my brake performance for the most part as it was completely replaced following an unfortunate incident where a shop put PS fluid in the brake res. The only problem I have is wear and a vacuum boost issue where the pedal needs to be pumped a few times if its been hot and I park or I change elevations dramatically.

 

[PeterTheBeater]

I’ve put on Brembo blanks and LC100 Brembo brake pads. The rear was LC80 brembo pads and some generic rotors.
I don’t race the truck but i wanted to put on the best budget brakes available so i went with that.

As far as the brands you mentioned, Akebono are quality JDM brakes, EBC’s are good too.


This is the pn for front brembo rotors on RockAuto : 09591410
I think these are the 100 series Brembo front pads :
P83048N
This is rear brembo pads :
P83024N

 

[BILT4ME]

I also have PowerStop rotors and pads from Summit Racing, because they were much less expensive than OEM at the time.

I have more than 85K miles on my front rotors now, and changed pads on the front about 65K miles. My truck is a DD and I put on between 15-20K/year. I also don't brake much, I use engine braking whenever possible. I do little off-road and I don;t tow a trailer.

I have a new set of PowerStop rotors and pads in the garage awaiting my next rebuild. I am going with them, again, because they are about half the price of OEM and I get good life from them. I seriously weighed the aspect of OEM, but since I do little off road, the drilled and slotted affect me MUCH less than someone that does much more off road, because the holes and slot gather rocks, sand, dirt, and debris and chew up your pads and rotors.

So, depending on your use and depth of pocket, let those determine which version.

 

[MrMikeyG]

I'm seeing around 90 bucks each for rear Mr. T oem rotors right now. Are there Brembo options for the rear? I haven't seen any. On Rockauto if you click on the brake kit tab, there are more options, but they then come with pads. Too many choices. Sheesh!

 

[Woofythewolf]

I went with American performance rotors for 1 reason: an unlimited mile, lifetime warranty against warping and cracking (and they’re kinda local to me which is cool too). When it was my mom’s car, she would warp the rotors every 15-30k miles, so when I started driving it and it needed rotors badly, I spent the $370 under the assumption it would keep going through rotors if I stayed with OEM. (And with me installing, that was still cheaper than going to the dealership for OEM rotors all around so my parents were happy)

Since then it’s probably been 30k-ish miles and no warping. I kinda thought I’d be buying into free rotors for life, but not warping is good too. I use Napa Gold lifetime wear warranty pads (Supposed to be the same organic type formulation as the OEM pads), they skid the tires no problem and I expect they won’t wear the rotors too quickly either.

 

[thatcabledude]

Brembo blanks

 

[flintknapper]

I've always used and been happy with the Brembos.

 

[Malleus]

I like the OE rotors fine, but I'm ready to see if slotted or something will improve my performance.

They won't.

I don't think slotted or cross drilled rotors really have any advantage in this application. In a racing application where heat-shedding is important, sure, but if you're stomping your brakes at +90% force every 20 seconds or so, you probably don't know how to drive

I used to have powerstop drilled and slotted rotors and actually burned through them in about 30k miles (worn to the point they were too thin to be used). Now bear in mind, part of that time was while my LSPV was outta whack. I also tow a camper without trailer brakes occasionally. But I felt no performance advantage to the slots or holes.

In the course of my ownership of those rotors I also got stuck in a serious mud hole at one point during a sloppy spring blizzard. I had to take the wheels off and spend a good hour or two with compressed air and various screwdrivers, etc, to get all the debris out of the holes.

So when they wore out, I got regular blank rotors. Just one guy's opinion

...what he said.

 

[IoN6]

I have been quite happy with my DBA T2's after ~40k miles. Have the front end apart now and they are very evenly worn.