Are these the right speakers for the front? Pioneer TS‑G1644R ?
High praise for the Pioneer speaker replacement behind stock grille! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter IdahoDoug
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asutherland
VA7 HDT
How can these fit? I can't seem to find ANY speakers that fit the front doors... Everything is too deep. The stock speakers have a funny "inverted cone" look to them which allows for a super shallow mount.
How about this sub to replace the OEM sub?? It's a shallow one, it will likely fit into the rear panel, but the hole will have to be opened up. Seems like a promising solution for more base. The 10" is cheaper on than the 8" on Amazon both with free shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW...113615&sr=8-11&keywords=pioneer+subwoofer+6.5
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GLPC3GytziY/p_130SW841D/Pioneer-TS-SW841D.html#customer-reviews-tab
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SW...113615&sr=8-11&keywords=pioneer+subwoofer+6.5
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-GLPC3GytziY/p_130SW841D/Pioneer-TS-SW841D.html#customer-reviews-tab
Finnyfam60
Driving miss daisy
Okie dokie, just did this. Used the pioneer ts-g1644r from amazon, $50+ for all 4. I only got to the fronts tonight though.
I'm not the brightest kid, so I figure that I should share my epiphanies while doing this install. Apologies for any repeated info, I will try to stick to what I hadn't learned in these threads prior to the install. (Everyone probably already knows this stuff, so I'm feeling a bit sheepish, but here goes, just in case there is a shmuck like me who can use it to make his life easier).
1.) These are NOT 6.5" speakers (contrary to what the box says). They are 5.25" speakers with little extra tabs that would allow you to mount them in 6.5" speaker location. Fortunately for us, we need 5.25" speakers, not 6.5".
2.) I bent the little metal tabs forward (away from door) so they would not hinder a flush mounting of the speaker against the door. This led to the speaker magnet solidly contacting the window channel, preventing a flush mount. So I stand there in my driveway texting and calling my wife, while she is on errands, to pick up some 1/4" spacers from worst buy. They don't have any. Try the stereo install place down the road. They don't have any. I call worst buy, because I have now measured and discovered fact #1 above. They can't find any in the computer so the wife heads back there and calls me and puts a salesman on because she is unsure. "Sir, we have 1" spacers, not 1/2", sorry for the inconvenience." I ask if they are 5.25" or 6.5"? He says 6.5". Blasted! I tell the wife to come home because while on the phone I epiphanize the following:
3.) If you bend the small tab to the rear, towards the door, it will create a built in 1/4" spacer for you. ish. Here I begin to correct my handywork
Voilà
4.) Mounted up driver side. Works brilliantly. Gnat's hair clearance!
(Not sure why pics turn sideways on my s4)
5.) Another thought: while on the phone earlier with the stereo shop discussing the needed spacer, he asks if there is enough clearance within the factory grill/door panel to clear and not interfere/hinder the throw of the speaker. I hadn't really thought about it and spewed out mud gospel "of course there is enough room, I read it on a forum!!" Pshhh. Who's he think he is? Well. I button up my driver door handy work and shine a light around and think it is good to go! However, while doing the passenger side I decide to geek out a little bit and cut away the cardboard door panel about a 1/16" to 1/8" to yield a 1/8" to 1/4" larger diameter hole. Hope it helped cuz it was a pita!
6.) Spoke with a buddy as I was cleaning up and mentioned to him i thought the ps was probably touching the window run. he mentioned I could have disconnected the bottom of the window run and added a washer or two to space the window run the direction I needed it in order to clear the speaker. (I'll do that if/when I get back inside the door, probably sooner rather than later, to add sound deadener.)
Overall, sounds amazing! And that's just with the two fronts!!
I'm not the brightest kid, so I figure that I should share my epiphanies while doing this install. Apologies for any repeated info, I will try to stick to what I hadn't learned in these threads prior to the install. (Everyone probably already knows this stuff, so I'm feeling a bit sheepish, but here goes, just in case there is a shmuck like me who can use it to make his life easier).
1.) These are NOT 6.5" speakers (contrary to what the box says). They are 5.25" speakers with little extra tabs that would allow you to mount them in 6.5" speaker location. Fortunately for us, we need 5.25" speakers, not 6.5".
2.) I bent the little metal tabs forward (away from door) so they would not hinder a flush mounting of the speaker against the door. This led to the speaker magnet solidly contacting the window channel, preventing a flush mount. So I stand there in my driveway texting and calling my wife, while she is on errands, to pick up some 1/4" spacers from worst buy. They don't have any. Try the stereo install place down the road. They don't have any. I call worst buy, because I have now measured and discovered fact #1 above. They can't find any in the computer so the wife heads back there and calls me and puts a salesman on because she is unsure. "Sir, we have 1" spacers, not 1/2", sorry for the inconvenience." I ask if they are 5.25" or 6.5"? He says 6.5". Blasted! I tell the wife to come home because while on the phone I epiphanize the following:
3.) If you bend the small tab to the rear, towards the door, it will create a built in 1/4" spacer for you. ish. Here I begin to correct my handywork
Voilà
4.) Mounted up driver side. Works brilliantly. Gnat's hair clearance!
(Not sure why pics turn sideways on my s4)
5.) Another thought: while on the phone earlier with the stereo shop discussing the needed spacer, he asks if there is enough clearance within the factory grill/door panel to clear and not interfere/hinder the throw of the speaker. I hadn't really thought about it and spewed out mud gospel "of course there is enough room, I read it on a forum!!" Pshhh. Who's he think he is? Well. I button up my driver door handy work and shine a light around and think it is good to go! However, while doing the passenger side I decide to geek out a little bit and cut away the cardboard door panel about a 1/16" to 1/8" to yield a 1/8" to 1/4" larger diameter hole. Hope it helped cuz it was a pita!
6.) Spoke with a buddy as I was cleaning up and mentioned to him i thought the ps was probably touching the window run. he mentioned I could have disconnected the bottom of the window run and added a washer or two to space the window run the direction I needed it in order to clear the speaker. (I'll do that if/when I get back inside the door, probably sooner rather than later, to add sound deadener.)
Overall, sounds amazing! And that's just with the two fronts!!
I went with after market grills on the front doors and stock grills on the rear doors. The front speakers are Pionier TS-G1644R and the rears are Alpines SPS-410. The fronts needed spacers and 4 drilled holes so not a whole lot of mods. I like the look of the after market grills.
On the rears I untilized stock speaker plastic mount so that the grill can be mounted in the stock configuration. Needed alot of modifications to the mount such as cutting and grinding so that the 4'' speaker wound fit right. I had to also grind off the 4 mounting tabs on the speaker to get it to sit. A bit of 5 minuet epoxy around the edge and it way read to go into the door. It was a bit more work than I would like to have done but its a love affair i guess...
On the rears I untilized stock speaker plastic mount so that the grill can be mounted in the stock configuration. Needed alot of modifications to the mount such as cutting and grinding so that the 4'' speaker wound fit right. I had to also grind off the 4 mounting tabs on the speaker to get it to sit. A bit of 5 minuet epoxy around the edge and it way read to go into the door. It was a bit more work than I would like to have done but its a love affair i guess...
Here's a dumb question: when replacing speakers from the OEM versions, I have to cut the OEM wire and solder on new connectors to the old wires for the new speakers right? Since I don't have a soldering iron and haven't ever done it, I'm just asking (and maybe looking for a decent alternative, but if there isn't I will learn to solder.)
you can crimp - which holds up better to vibrations
but you don't need to cut the stock wiring - the speakers are attached with a two wire plug - just find crimp spade tails at the auto store and crimp those onto the wire ends from your speakers
alternatively, Crutchfield sells adapter harnesses to the stock Toyota wiring - plug in, be done
but you don't need to cut the stock wiring - the speakers are attached with a two wire plug - just find crimp spade tails at the auto store and crimp those onto the wire ends from your speakers
alternatively, Crutchfield sells adapter harnesses to the stock Toyota wiring - plug in, be done
I used a sharp pair of wire cutters to go around the hole snipping away the cardboard door panel. A little snip and twist took it right off.
.
Thx DSRTRDR. I'll take a closer look. I was in the rear door speakers and only saw the wires going right into the speaker. I should've know there was a toyota connector in the door. I'll dig in more.
I love the idea of the crutchfield adaptors; very clean. I'll look into that.
I love the idea of the crutchfield adaptors; very clean. I'll look into that.
If you guys go back and read Idaho Dougs original post you'll see that he used 3/8" window seal foam as a spacer to keep the Pioneers off the door runner.
Also, in regards to wire connectors, in my 92' I did have to cut and splice to retain my stock plug connector as the original wires were soldered onto the speakers. I used a product that some might like : http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-S...t_1.r_IF1003?gclid=CMWh9JCQpb4CFY6RfgodyUYAew
basically you lightly crimp the wires being careful not to break the plastic casing, heat shrink the ends with a heat gun, then blast the middle with heat to melt the solder.
Thanks again to IdahoDoug for this, I've had my new speakers in for a bit now, and am quite happy with the end results.
Also, in regards to wire connectors, in my 92' I did have to cut and splice to retain my stock plug connector as the original wires were soldered onto the speakers. I used a product that some might like : http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-S...t_1.r_IF1003?gclid=CMWh9JCQpb4CFY6RfgodyUYAew
basically you lightly crimp the wires being careful not to break the plastic casing, heat shrink the ends with a heat gun, then blast the middle with heat to melt the solder.
Thanks again to IdahoDoug for this, I've had my new speakers in for a bit now, and am quite happy with the end results.
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
I just desoldered the connectors from the OEM speakers and resoldered them onto hype Pioneers. The OEM speakers are marked +/- so it's pretty easy.
it's a bit more difficult to find the plug on the rear door speakers than the front - I first thought they were soldered on, too, but there's a plug right on the speaker - you have to loosen the speaker out of the door to find it
Found the plug; Crutchfield adaptors ordered. Will learn to solder on something else!
I might be mucking up this thread and can start it again elsewhere, but for those on here who've done it... adding an external amp. I've never run wires before, and am assuming its something as easy as snaking them under carpet, etc?
I bought one of AATLAS1X larger sub enclosures that allows for a proper external amp and want to connect it all to my Pioneer headunit.
I bought one of AATLAS1X larger sub enclosures that allows for a proper external amp and want to connect it all to my Pioneer headunit.
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Aggiesdm
***** Regular
This is very generic, but you'll need to run:
1. a power line from the battery (or fuse block) to supply 12v power to the Amp. The power thats already in that area is not adequate for a larger amp. Take it off the battery and use an in-line fuse of the right amperage.
2. a remote "turn-on" from the head unit to Power up/down the amp with the head unit. This is often a blue/white wire off the back of the HU, it is low voltage, so the gauge of the wire is not a huge deal. I've used 16 or 18g of them with no problem.
3. a RCA line from your head unit to supply signal.
4. a ground for the amp, but that can be done near your mounting location. Just find a grounded bolt or screw and tie into that.
As far as where to run the wires is concerned, I always use the wire routing channels that are found under the doorway thresholds. They generally have more than enough room to accommodate what you'll need. Make sure you are using the right gauge of wire to supply your amp and ground, this will assure that your don't get any overloading of the circuit and that you get the most out of your amp. Also make sure you don't run your wires in areas that they are likely to be damaged or pinched. Good luck.
Hornd
SILVER Star
Here is what I did and I could not be happier
Rears
Pried off the rear speaker grills, Removed the speakers and cut out the mounts (Dremel with drywall bit, jig saw with fine blade would likely also work) to fit the new Pioneers, Caulked them to the mounts and put them back in. Cut wires and crimped on new terminals to fit new speakers. Took about 45 mins from start to finish.
Fronts
Remove front triangle portion behind mirror using Lisle Tool
Remove and unhook wiring to window control panel on armrest (only pry on side closest to your body, tab on other side)
Remove Rear armrest and 2 screws
Remove one screw behind door handle and slip off Plastic piece, put screw back in so not lost
Using Lisle Tool ($10...worth every penny, Model 35400). Pry door panel free taking your time
Unplug light at Bottom when panel is loose, and feed thru electrical connectors
Lift up on door Panel to release.
Remove 4 Spring clips from back of speaker cover using Lisle tool and prying gently
Pioneers come with metal clips that can be slid right over existing speaker holes in panel. Using Pioneer Screws mount Speaker Covers to door panel, They fit and tighten beautifully.
Crimp new wires to existing using Red tube crimps (China*Mart)
Reassemble.
LH side took 1hr+ RH side took 20 mins.
*Bought both speakers on Ebay and I think total was less than $60 shipped. Search by Pioneer Part Number.
Replaced deck also:
Used Mantra Plug from Crutchfield ($10 Shipped). Crimped to new CD player on workbench then just plug and go. Set parking brake put in Key and turn to ACC to move shifter out of way.
Remember to disconnect amp behind glove box & amp in rear compartment near hatch for subwoofer, if not you will blow the 10AMP fuse under hood in fuse box behind battery like I did.
Rears
Pried off the rear speaker grills, Removed the speakers and cut out the mounts (Dremel with drywall bit, jig saw with fine blade would likely also work) to fit the new Pioneers, Caulked them to the mounts and put them back in. Cut wires and crimped on new terminals to fit new speakers. Took about 45 mins from start to finish.
Fronts
Remove front triangle portion behind mirror using Lisle Tool
Remove and unhook wiring to window control panel on armrest (only pry on side closest to your body, tab on other side)
Remove Rear armrest and 2 screws
Remove one screw behind door handle and slip off Plastic piece, put screw back in so not lost
Using Lisle Tool ($10...worth every penny, Model 35400). Pry door panel free taking your time
Unplug light at Bottom when panel is loose, and feed thru electrical connectors
Lift up on door Panel to release.
Remove 4 Spring clips from back of speaker cover using Lisle tool and prying gently
Pioneers come with metal clips that can be slid right over existing speaker holes in panel. Using Pioneer Screws mount Speaker Covers to door panel, They fit and tighten beautifully.
Crimp new wires to existing using Red tube crimps (China*Mart)
Reassemble.
LH side took 1hr+ RH side took 20 mins.
*Bought both speakers on Ebay and I think total was less than $60 shipped. Search by Pioneer Part Number.
Replaced deck also:
Used Mantra Plug from Crutchfield ($10 Shipped). Crimped to new CD player on workbench then just plug and go. Set parking brake put in Key and turn to ACC to move shifter out of way.
Remember to disconnect amp behind glove box & amp in rear compartment near hatch for subwoofer, if not you will blow the 10AMP fuse under hood in fuse box behind battery like I did.
replacement of the front speakers is a lot easier than you describe - the mirror and window control removal are unnecessary
So...I grabbed a pair of the ts-g1644r's for cheap and used a small metal spacer ring to get them off the window rail slightly. Went to put the door panels back on and there is definite interference with the speaker's rubber surround and door panel cardboard.
How in the world has everyone else made it work without surface mounting the speakers on the panels and using the pioneer grills?
How in the world has everyone else made it work without surface mounting the speakers on the panels and using the pioneer grills?
Sorry to dig up an old thread but a few questions pertaining to a 97 Lx450
What are the correct new part numbers for the pioneers to allow it to look stock?
Do I just need to unplug the factory dash speakers or can I replace them and add bass blockers for them? If so, what speakers do I need?
Where is the factory amp? It's got aftermarket mtx speakers in the front doors currently just want to see if it's already been bypassed.
What is the replacement for the 4" sub in the console? How do you get it out?
Is there a sub in the rear as well?
Anything else I may need to get or know other than what's already been hashed out? Just posting this to help a confused overwhelmed new lx450 owner. It's got an aftermarket pioneer head unit installed currently.
What are the correct new part numbers for the pioneers to allow it to look stock?
Do I just need to unplug the factory dash speakers or can I replace them and add bass blockers for them? If so, what speakers do I need?
Where is the factory amp? It's got aftermarket mtx speakers in the front doors currently just want to see if it's already been bypassed.
What is the replacement for the 4" sub in the console? How do you get it out?
Is there a sub in the rear as well?
Anything else I may need to get or know other than what's already been hashed out? Just posting this to help a confused overwhelmed new lx450 owner. It's got an aftermarket pioneer head unit installed currently.
