Some people put way too much thought into motor oil. I say this as a stereotypical engineer who is normally pedantic about details.
Keep the motor at the proper level of synthetic oil, or a little over the full mark. 5-30, 10-30, 0-30, 0-40 should all be perfectly fine in all but the most extreme US climates. Heavier oils can help lubricate a worn engine, but they can also create excessive pressure (restriction to flow) and starve bearings during cold starts on a good engine. In reality, a 10-60 would probably still be fine (though I would never run it in a stock 2UZ).
Higher oil pressure is not necessarily a good thing. Low oil pressure indicated on the OEM dash is not blindly a bad thing. If you're concerned about your oil pressure, measure it with a test gauge. OEM gauges are near worthless for precise measurement.
Oil color is virtually meaningless. If anything, it may point to filtration performance more than oil. You need a lab analysis.
The Toyota sludge lawsuit primarily deals with people who were confused by warranty and maintenance agreements and flat out didn't change the oil (though some claim they did, but lost receipts). The consumer affairs article on it even states Toyota and Lexus engines are not predisposed to sludge formation - no engineering fault identified. As with floormat debacle, it's another case of clueless customers blaming a big corporation for personal problems.
If you're concerned about your oil, run a few Blackstone Lab tests. Anything else is a waste of breathe, IMO.
*Also, I'll add that I run 10-15k oil change intervals (filter at 6 months), even under severe conditions and I use 0-40 Castrol Edge or whatever good 5-30 synthetic is on sale and in stock. I do this both on my Land Crusier and modified Supra. I've got 150k+ miles of trouble free driving. The most important thing about engine oil is to simply have some in the sump that isn't too old (maybe 5-7k for dino oil, 10-20k for modern synthetics).
