HG replacement in Elk Grove is underway

[powderpig]

Why is the black streak at the back of #5 cylinder? I see where the fireing ring was not controling the compression at #1, but have a hard time seeing #6(but it looks like the fire ring had almost moved out to the water passage at #6.
Some of the pic also give bad looks to some of the cylinders(might be reflection), hard to tell on #5, 4,3 if the cylinder walls have good cross hatching.

I used Dels for quite a few head when I was in Sac last year. They did good work, was on Time and the valve were adjusted as I asked. The also found some cracks in the sealing surface I did not see at the time of removal. Prices some time reflect the ecomany where you find the shop. 370 is a great deal. Just like Idaho doug getting his for 250 or some other crazy price. these head take a bit of time to get the valve ajust right. I know my shop here in Denver, charges me close to 600, one in Longmont colorado want 1200 for the same job.
Go figure, price is not always about what it cost, the the quality of the job is worth a bunch to me.
I think del is quoteing a high side just in case(like he did with me). But the work came in around 600 if I remember right. Now if you need valves or seat, it will be a whole different ball game. Steve what did your head cost and the valve swap, well over 1450 (1100 or for the head, 350 to swap it all over?)
What shop would you recommend Pin_head? That may be better than saying there are lots of other machine shop in the local area. Then Robert can call on a couple of others to see what local pricing is?

 

[MS-75]

Here is a shot of the modified combustion chambers in my old 80 series head.

This jumps the flow by about 15-20% as in the std 80 series chamber the valves are horribly shrouded (also a bit of cleanup of the casting marks and blending the valve seats into the bowls is easy - I did it all with a dremel tool)

The slight drop in compression can be counteracted by a slight skim of the head face. (As this was a turbo motor I didn't skim as I wanted the compression drop)

 

[Pin_Head]

What shop would you recommend Pin_head?

I haven't lived in Sac in over 20 years, but I used to use a shop at 21st and Broadway a few blocks from DMV. They did all the machine work for the shop I used to work at and had been in business there for many years. I don't know if they are still in business. Maybe not, because it is California and it isn't easy to be in business here. It is cheaper to adopt someone than have an employee.


If you don't have any personal experience, then shopping around makes more sense than just throwing a dart at the yellow pages. Having a shop you know is good is worth spending a few more dollars with. If I had to guess, I would start by talking to a few local mechanics.

 

[robertaleon]

Thanks for all the input on the "head" topic. Based on the opinions here and mechanics I've asked - the default around Sacramento is Del's. Most of the Toy dealers use them as well and they seem to have a good operation going. You guys seem to mistake me for a gear head or mechanic - which I'm not - hell my wife even told me so a few weeks back. But my wife and I love the 80 and want the best for her. You need email migrations, highly-available, fault-tolerant computer clusters, enterprise networks setup - I can help you guys out with that. Engines - ain't my bag.

Out to the garage to spend time with the ol' girl........

 

[dclee]

Robert -

Wow, missing the show in my own backyard! Do you live in the Camden area, next door to the Hart family by any chance?

 

[robertaleon]

@DCLEE

Bruceville @ Elk Grove



PM me when you get a chance.

 

[CycloSteve]

Shop around. There are a lot of machine shops in Sacratomato.

I trust Robbie's recommendations regarding the shop. Best to have a shop which has done a dozen or so Cruiser heads, so that they know the ins and outs. Let Del know that Robbie sent you and maybe he will give you a break.

The swap of all my valve running gear to the new head was $440 from Clarks. They still had to do most of the normal HG work with the valves, seats and adjustments, just skipped having to square-up the mating-surface as the core was new.



Steve

 

[Pin_Head]

I trust Robbie's recommendations regarding the shop. Best to have a shop which has done a dozen or so Cruiser heads, so that they know the ins and outs. Let Del know that Robbie sent you and maybe he will give you a break.

Note that the OP did not state how he ended up chosing Del's machine shop for the work, but he stated that the price was making him reconsider having a valve job done. The only way you will know if $800 is out of line is to shop around. The machine shop business is competitive. It is good advice.

 

[razr]

HG replacement and ancillary items based on grind kit

Are head gasket kits available from Toyota?

 

[OGBeno]

Are head gasket kits available from Toyota?

Yes. 04112-66035

We have 2 in stock.

 

[robertaleon]

Decided on heading to Del's after several recommendations here and outside.

Got the call - warped @ 0.006 Max on block side and he won't go any further. Suggested the PO and/or the PO's previous mechanic heated up really good and and then just cut it with the first HG job.

Time to source a new head.

 

[pkelly72]

That's to bad. Good luck in your search and keep us posted.

Decided on heading to Del's after several recommendations here and outside.

Got the call - warped @ 0.006 Max on block side and he won't go any further. Suggested the PO and/or the PO's previous mechanic heated up really good and and then just cut it with the first HG job.

Time to source a new head.

 

[Pin_Head]

You might try Sacramento Cylinder Heads in Rancho Cordova or Automotive Cylinderhead exchange off Franklin and 47th to see if they have one in stock.

 

[robertaleon]

Thanks to (in no particular order): Pin_Head, PowderPig, CycloSteve, Acetryx, DJSixBillion, and others I'm probably fogetting. All your input has been greatly appreciated. Although I can't comment on the work yet, Del's is doing the machining based on several recommendations here and throughout Sacramento. They (especially Dave) has been very patient working through this process, explaining measurements and costs as well as trying to source a cast - but these heads are not popular around here; anyone do a 22R swap into an 80?


I sourced a used, uncut head in the bay area earlier this week and has passed inspection at the machine shop (Del's). Based on original measurements of my original head, my HG didn't fail but my head did, being warped in a rainbow fasion which would explain the coolant seap I found between 3-4 on the intake side. Getting the "Full Monty" valve-job done, including adjust so we'll see how things turn out (approaching CycloSteve $$$ territory now). Shop needs to source some new guides which will be putting the job a day behind. Hopefully I'll have the head by 7/25.

 

[djsixbillion]

Glad you were able to find a good core. Good luck with the machining and reassembly.

 

[robertaleon]

Other PM

Decided to continue with other PM while I'm waiting for my head.

Oil Cooler neglected. Not only was it neglected but there were no gaskets for the oil cooler tank assembly (two) to the cover. Here are the before pics (no afters but it's pretty spotless now).

I also got the fuel filter replaced, removing the aftermarket with a Denso.

FYI - I also found that my warped head was a aftermarket cast. After receiving my "new" used head I put them side to side and found that the "new" used head had a hologram-type name plate with serial number right above the tensioner. I'll have to post pix of that.

And before I get another comment on running "green" coolant - I received the truck from PO last year with old "green", and have performed about 12 flushes: 2 with tap water 4 with super flushes and distilled water and 6 with pure distilled water. Always refilled with 50/50 green w/ distilled water.

 

[Rusty]

Head came off tonight but lots of work ahead.

No major evidence of failure so my comments after the reveal "So it was for nothing!" Multiple HC tests showed positive results I assured her along with bubbles in the radiator...

At least you can tell your now that it WAS for something!

Good luck with the reassembly, I'm launching into mine here shortly. Watching yours to see what additional parts I may need.

One thing that is worth while doing - when you have open ended pipes etc. exposed in the engine bay i.e. exhaust 'Y" etc., stuff a rag in the top of the opening(s) so that you don't inadvertently drop anything down the hole. It sucks if you drop a nut or other object down there, saves you from potentially having to take apart things you didn't intend on disassembling.

 

[robertaleon]

Head is back from Del's and had a good experience; a lot lighter in the wallet but good guys to deal with for a newbie mechanic like myself. Complete valve job, new intake guides, seals installed from grind kit, pressure test, straightened, valve adjust. They're only comments were "hard to source the guides" and "longest part of the job was the adjustment." They delivered on-time of their estimate even with having to go out-of-state for the guides.

Head is going on tomorrow night.

 

[robertaleon]

Pix of the fresh head

pix of the head....

 

[CycloSteve]

Oil Cooler neglected. Not only was it neglected but there were no gaskets for the cover nor the oil cooler tank assembly (two) to the cover. Here are the before pics (no afters but it's pretty spotless now).

Looking at picture #2, the gaskets are still on the block! They are black and pretty thin IIRC. I am sure you figured that one out when cleaning the block.



Steve