help with wrecked 80 (1 Viewer)

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Apr 24, 2010
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According to the woman's insurance company that hit me on Saturday, I have to clear out my belongings & take off the tag. After this is done, the 80 will be towed to a salvage yard. This is to basically to determine how much the salvage yard is willing to pay for the 80. My question is this . . . keeping in mind I might be able to buy the Cruiser back with a salvage title if the price is right . . . should I go ahead & try to pull my 3rd row of seats out? I am definately going to get my fog lights & my RootCo modified blue ant switch. Are the grey leather 3rd rows worth much? Do you think it will effect the value of the salvage vehicle. I am thinking the less desireable the vehicle looks the cheaper I can buy it back for. What do you think? I really hate giving up my LED brake lights, FJ wheels, & 295/70R17 Trail Grapplers, but I guess I will have to leave those. Any input would be appreciated.

P.S. Anybody have a 96 or 97 LC or LX with less than 125K miles . . . champagne sage or similar color preferred. I really dig the two tone interior & was thinking the paint color would do well with matched bedliner & a white top.
 
What state are you in? Insurance rules vary from state to state.
 
Personally I wouldn't let anyone tow the vehicle anywhere before checking with my insurance company or even my lawyer?? Also, who would you be buying the vehicle back from, the salvage yard or the insurance company. I would guess that the salvage yard will most likely be looking at it's value in parts; engine, transmission, starter, alternator, ----
 
NC

good point about the towing . . . I will call my insurance company tomorrow

once again thanks for the good advice
 
I'd TELL the insurance company that you aren't doing anyting until the price for totalling is negotiated, and the buy-back price is determined & you are given the chance to do what you want with it at that point (hey, they may not even have to send that towtruck, saving them some cash!). If they don't like the terms you give them, tell them they can talk to your lawyer.

You are in the "drivers' seat" here, not them - you tell them your points of negotiation, otherwise that "really nagging pain in your neck" could turn into a big issue for them.

They are trying to sweep you under the rug, and once you give up care & control over your rig, they got you.

I'm not condoning insurance scam, but step up & realize you are in far greater control of the situation than the other parties' insurance company is leading you to believe.

You seem far more concerned over dimes when you could be tripping over dollars - have you had a qualified doctor check you & all your passengers out? Sometimes it takes a couple days for a spine injury to manifest to the point you're in pain - children in particular are slow to report pain, and their heads are like bowling balls on a broomstick at early ages (neck muscles aren't developed) -- (really, not being a butthead, legal type here - it really happens)
 
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No. They come to you, your not turning over anything. Get a lawyer, now. Ask me why I tell you this. MIke
 
No. They come to you, your not turning over anything. Get a lawyer, now. Ask me why I tell you this. MIke

Exactly - I'm pretty slow to get representation, but any "insurance company" who is telling you to drive your rig to the wrecker (of their choice, I'm sure) - this just screams shadey, slimeball tactics that I'd slow the pace on - these guys are running on YOUR clock, you AREN'T running on THEIRS!
 
OK. I've taken my deep breathe. I've listen to everyone's logical thinking. Obviously I wasn't thinking clearly & as usual the forum is right. I have already left a message on the adjuster's voicemail stating I will not sign anything until the pay-off amount is negotiated & the buy back value is set. My only concern now is that they decide it would be cheaper to repair it.

BTW, does anyone know the rules for salvage titles. For example if they decide to repair it instead of totalling & the cost is say $5000 instead giving me the Kelley Blue book value of something like $9000, wouldn't this automatically make the title a salvage title? I thought there was a 25% the value rule or something.

Anymore good advise?
 
X2 on Linus. Call your insurance and ask them the right path. You shouldn't have to tow anywhere. You should be given a buyout # from insurance co not salvage yard. They are trying to wack ya for a deal.
 
Sorry if I missed it, but have you taken your rig anywhere to get a repair estimate?
 
They won't give you retail value for it. Trust me they will not fix this vehicle. parts/paint/labor would add up to thousands from a body shop. They will prefer selling back to you so they don't need to deal with it. That is why the salvage yard request stinks b/c some of these insurance sharks are in cahoots with salvage yards , kickbacks etc b/c they know the value of the parts.
 
Seriously, slow the pace at which these jokers are trying to end this situation - the faster they sweep you "under the rug" the faster & cheaper they have the claim you rightfully could have against them resolved.

I"M NOT A LAWYER - I've taken a couple a pre-law classes back in college & I understand how to communicate (or just shut up) with those who I know are much wiser in lawful matters than myself (and when it's time to get professional intervention) - and you really sound like a nice guy who WILL GET ROLLED if you continue on the path you sound lke you are on with these near-criminal style legal representatives for this so-called insurance company.

The truth sets people free. The slower you get this to go, the more you can get people who are fair in this world to put eyes on / see if the situation you are in is creditable, or if you are getting cornholed by a group of people who are in a "insurance business" that is nothing more than a bunch of buddies who figured out how to "roll" some innocent people along the way, and who have to pay out (rightfully) when informed people come up against them.

Really? - Have you & all your passengers been checked out by qualified (NOT THEIR DOCTORS?) medical professionals? (Have you had ANY x-ray / CT scans / MRI's ?) - Have your passengers / especially children? - Like I said before, kids are the least likely to let you know when in pain (I'm an ex-EMT - we were trained to really FOCUS on little kiddos - they are tough little bastards (remember being a kid?)

I ask as I really had that level of medical evaluation done at the expense/recommendation of the person who HIT ME insurance company (Farmer's was their company - now their mine after that incident) - they wanted to make sure I WAS OK (and also didn't have a further claim, I'm sure) - and while visually the guy who hit me was driving an a Honda Accord that was called a total - He rear-ended me & my BMW (older, it's a '93 5-series) was barely damaged (took a new rear bumper frame & foam, mounts, and skin) - they were far more worried about my medical state than the car - they made sure I got the medical situation handled, then when it came to the car, they just took care of it, no questions asked to the cost or the fact I wanted it repaired & not totalled - it wasn't anything to them that I took it to the local premeir autobody place (car was pristine prior to me being rearended)

Really, just slow the pace down & let the "insurance" company that you are potentially dealing with know that you think you need to be medically checked out, that there are issues that you have with surrendering your Landcruiser as simple "scrap value" as far as the auto goes, and that there are going to be longer-reaching issues that may require more money on their part - they aren't going to get away with you simply surrendering the 80 to a local scrapper for steel scrap weight value, and that you need to explore all the issues involved with the loss of the 80 you weren't in the least thinking of selling.

Time is on your side. I really don't advocate insurance fraud, but I also have seen how insurance companies mistreat people because people don't know how to deal with them - they will take advantage of you if they see an opening. Don't allow them to see or find one.
 
Good points Linus. 1 more thing, as I told you about my Lexus LS400 where I was hit and it was the other insurance companies pay out to me. They initially tried to offer me$5k and I said forget it, its in great shape and worth $8k including my buy out of the v3hicle for $ 1,100.00. They called me back in 30 min and agreed to pay me that and I had a check on my door step the next day from Liberty Mutual for $7,800. They want to settle so you can't come back after the fact and sue etc.
 
I am a lawyer and have worked with auto accidents quite a bit. Though I'm not in North Carolina, I would imagine the laws are similar. PM me if you want some more detailed advice on how to ensure you get the value of your truck and maybe a little extra.
 
Experts, how bad is this damage to the rear axle? I assume a new housing will be required. Got a few pics from the the dealership today. Had to basically put her insurance company in a choke hold to get them to move my car. The axle looks worse than I thought. I am thinking the disconnected the driveshaft, raised the rear end to tow it. I asked for a flat bed but the zip ties tell me something else happened. Values have still not been determined for what insurance is going to do. Any idea how much a 96 FZJ80 motor with 126K on the clock, full grey leather interior, 4 FJ wheels with center caps, & 4 295/70R17 Trail Grapplers with 5K miles on it would be worth to Forum members. If I get it back there will be plenty more to part out, but I figured these would be the easy quick sales. I trying to get a ball park guess of how much is too much for a buy back. &*&^ I hate I am going through this. Once again any an all suggestions & comments are appreciated. Good luck wishes are also appreciated.
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Rear housing

Got a nice one if you go that route,just let me know
 
If you are just asking for a rough value, without seeing the vehicle or test driving it, for that condition, between 7-8K is what i would expect to pay.
 
Photos are too small to really see much, can you post up larger images??
 
What exactly is damaged? Because if it's just the rear axle then they may repair it. It only gets mega expensive when body damage happens because that involves alot of labor costs. Remember too they don't have to use new parts, as they only have to restore it to it's former condition.

Was nice of them to remove the front drive shaft. No harm done towing it that way.
 

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